cable clutch to hydraulic setup

[phibza_XR6]

hey guys, was wondering if anyone has converted the cable clutch setups in the ford i6 to hydraulic. Have snapped another cable and really want to convert it to a hydraulic type. any help would be great thanks

[Whoosha]

Originally Posted by phibza_XR6

hey guys, was wondering if anyone has converted the cable clutch setups in the ford i6 to hydraulic. Have snapped another cable and really want to convert it to a hydraulic type. any help would be great thanks

Now thats a fair challange from the pedal box to the master cylnder to the slave to the clutch fork. could be done but wont be cheap. you could try a race enginering shop for some advice as to parts. they advertise in AutoAction.. good luck with it

[CAT600]

Mal Wood Automotive have an AU hydraulic pedal kit utilizing an under dash master cylinder and a remote reservior (B-series). I have it on my T1 and it works great. I am sure that when they did the development for it at the end of last year they used an AU 6 cylinder ute as the mule.

Give them a call and speak to Mal or Ben

Daniel

[5LGhiaWgn]

Originally Posted by CAT600

Mal Wood Automotive have an AU hydraulic pedal kit utilizing an under dash master cylinder and a remote reservior (B-series). I have it on my T1 and it works great. I am sure that when they did the development for it at the end of last year they used an AU 6 cylinder ute as the mule.

Give them a call and speak to Mal or Ben

Daniel

Priced one up when i was doing the 6 speed conversion they are about $800 od back in march this year from Malwood

[Sox]

I've owned manual Falcons which used the same setup as an AU since 1993. I must have owned at least 10 different manual coons, which now included 3 AU's.

I have not once broken a clutch cable, however there have been other problems.
There are other issues which need sorting before I'd even consider a hydraulic conversion.

Make sure the angle of the clutch pedal is correct, as it's common for them to bend and eventually break off. If it is, it will need welding.
Check the alignment of the tube which exits the firewall where the adjustment nut is located. These also crack, and need welding.
Make sure the cable is routed properly and not kinked.
The fingers at the clutch fork also open up, I have had to tie-wire it with some of the heavier duty clutches.
Make sure everything is lubricated well.

If you follow the above, your clutch cable should never break and it will be easy and smooth to operate.

[OED666]

I know I am thread mining, but you can convert from cable to hydraulic clutch setup. The cost is around $1490, for everything required. The pedal assembly is around $790, then $390 for a hydraulic bearing, $170 for a braided line, and the rest is incidentials required for the setup (exchange front bearing retainer... and a few other things)