Alternator charging question/help

[TheInterceptor]

Hey all! Ive recently bought myself a new used AUII!! LOVE IT! Great to be back in an A series Now here's a thread that might be a bit silly to you all.

What has come to my attention with this car is this. The motor doesnt crank over as quick as it should. Today it didnt want to start without some throttle! Starter motor is performing as normal. There an underlying problem here? Anything to do with what im about to say next?
Im using diagnostics mode and im noticing the charging volts keep dropping to 13.8 at random (loaded or unloaded, driving or not driving), generally sat at 14.3 - 14.5 then drops down then goes back up. Ive cleaned the alt up a bit tonight as it was covered in all sortsa muck, now its working better but its going up to 14.7 while idling. Isnt that a bit too high?! haha. It stays there for a bit too!

When i load up the electrics now, it still drops down to 13.8 then goes up to the low 14's. Ive plugged in a cig lighter voltmeter (dont have a multimeter) which reads the same as the cluster but doesnt fluctuate up n down as fast like the cluster. It still gave me a 13.8 reading when loaded.

Am i plain paranoid or is the voltage regulator giving up? Alternator? My recently sold Ford Courier charged at 14.5 and apon loading up the electrics it dropped to no less than 14.3 at idle, constant 14.5 in motion.

Also, when i hit highbeams at idle to load up the electrics, the motor sounds slightly more ...dunno how to describe it but more labored perhaps, it slightly changes its sound at idle. Maybe thats normal...??

Battery is just over 1 year old, the indicator window is green. It was clear (required recharging) apon pickup last week.

Ideas? Hopefully that made some sense.
Thanks.

[Sox]

Most of that sounds fairly normal, except for the gauge jumping around fast, but that could just be the gauge itself playing up.
All the voltages sound fine though.

[_Ben]

Also, make sure your power steering line isn't leaking onto the alternator.

[GasoLane]

Originally Posted by TheInterceptor

The motor doesnt crank over as quick as it should.
.................................................. .............................................

Also, when i hit highbeams at idle to load up the electrics, the motor sounds slightly more ...dunno how to describe it but more labored perhaps, it slightly changes its sound at idle. Maybe thats normal...??

Battery is just over 1 year old, the indicator window is green. It was clear (required recharging) apon pickup last week.

If the engine doesn't crank over as quick as it should it's battery.

Highbeam/heater etc will load up the alt and cause the revs to drop.

A good battery shop here told me that the green indicator only shows what one cell is like, so you could have a bad cell but not the one that is showing green.

If it was me I'd be getting a new, and bigger, battery and get them to test the Alt at the same time...the Alt test should be free anyway.

[my67xr]

the muck you cleaned off the alternator is most likely power steering fluid.
it causes the alternators' brushes to swell and fall apart.
can also cause the diodes to fail in some too.

very common problem in the E series cars as well.

the hose can be fixed by replacing the end, they are avaiable from fords for about $12, plus some power steering fluid.
job takes about 20-45 mins to do.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FALC...item43b01a296a

or replace the whole hose
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falc...item19d0b6ce65

there are a few threads here about it

[TheInterceptor]

Great thanks for all your input everyone!

There are no power steering leaks, thats the first thing i looked at as i knew bout that problem. Just crud and sludge from oil leaks ( a coating on the block too next to it and on the front of the head so cant really have been the P/S) and whatever else thats never ever been cleaned off.

Good to know the volatges are right, thanks!

Also in regards to the cranking, the starter spins fast as it should but the motor wont fire till you give it some accel. If i dont give it accel it will either sit there cranking till it fires or simply crank till the battery says no more.

[Sox]

Originally Posted by TheInterceptor

Also in regards to the cranking, the starter spins fast as it should but the motor wont fire till you give it some accel. If i dont give it accel it will either sit there cranking till it fires or simply crank till the battery says no more.

The IACV (idle air control valve) probably needs cleaning or replacing.
It's what feeds the engine the correct amount of air needed for start-up, and then adjusts idle as necessary when accessories are on and steering moved.

It's on top of the TB, remove it with 2 bolts, clean it out with TB cleaner or WD40. Use a screw driver to move the valve and free it up.
If cleaning doesn't help, you may need a new on.

[TheInterceptor]

Ha! I was gunna attack that on Friday when im not working!
Excellent, thanks mate.

[_Ben]

The crud / build up on the front on the block etc may have been from this

[TheInterceptor]

Ah yes, thanks Ben! Ill have to have a look at that next time im out there.

I just drowned the IACV and gave it a clean as well as i could and the motor starts by itself now albeit still doesnt fire as quick but its better

Cheers!

[EB DRIVER]

Never let that corrosion inhibitor get into your alternator,easy to do if sloppy when filling radiator,ruins voltage regulators,flush alt with clean water if you do,cost me a new one.

[XRGhia]

Pressure washer + multimeter sounds good when your up next...

When I looked at it, it looks like the gasket between the timing case, and the head has gone, so id probably say its from that...


Edit: that alternator is caked in absolute crap don't forget...

[TheInterceptor]

Yeah sure but no pressure washer thanks! Shall see how it goes in the next few days. Still running sweet except for the slow fire up

Edit: Not anymore!