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04-12-2013, 02:51 AM | #1 | ||
T-Series Club Member Vic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne (South-East)
Posts: 2,756
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After 12 years of me mashing away at them, my remotes were getting to the point that they were going to have to be replaced as even after replacing the rubber button pads, you had to push your finger just about through the back of the housing before it worked!
After asking some joker in a Mr Minute or similar key cutting business in the middle of the local mall, and being quoted $120 each, I decided that it probably made sense to look at alternatives! I spotted some $29 complete aftermarket replacement units on eBay which looked worth a shot. But I also noticed that you could buy two replacement shells with buttons and a set of 6 replacement micro-switches for a total of $32.50. The eBay seller ID was 'cheerocheero'. Now most people would be quite happy to buy a single remote for $30 and be done with it but if you are a tinkerer like me then you may just want to replace the worn parts and keep the (presumably superior) genuine internal electrics. It's a bit of a fiddly job, but I managed ok even though I'm generally a bit heavy handed so I expect that most would manage ok and find the process at least half enjoyable So I thought I'd share. The old switches in place on the board before I began. These had a very sticky action and no 'click' left at all. The new switches, as they came from the eBay seller. They only supply 6 so I didn't bother replacing the red panic button - SW4 I think it was labelled on the board. You'll need a very small screwdriver or similar to lever them while heating the solder points one at a time - the first corner of each one can be tricky. I used the very tip of the soldering iron (not the side at all) for both removing and resoldering the switches and it's important that you don't attack these with a massively hot iron - mine is a cheap cigarette lighter type unit that seems to heat the handle as hot as it does the tip but at least it didn't melt the board! The first step is to add a little solder to the terminals on the board by simply applying some solder to the iron and then touching it to the terminal long enough for it to flow. You'll spot my high-tech device for holding the board securely while I work - it's actually great to find a use for used detailing clay bar! I also used some clay to hold the switch when soldering it back onto the board. Again, I used the very tip of the soldering iron and the first one you really only need to get in the right position, then you can go ahead and solder the others while pressing down enough that the switch seats on the board like it's designed to - then go back and revisit the first one, this time pressing it down properly. One switch completed (SW3) and a second one ready to go. The results were excellent with the switches now giving a very positive click which I've not felt for years! The interesting thing is that the panic button which has only been pushed once or twice a year (by accident) was in just as bad condition as the others. This is a good thing and I'd be quite happy if the button wasn't there at all as my Mrs never fails to push the big red button while she's in a panic after setting off the alarm |
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04-12-2013, 02:57 AM | #2 | ||
AU3 5.0L Fairmont Wagon
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ford Performance Club of ACT
Posts: 2,510
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Excellent write up mate, my remote is exactly the same so I might give that a try as well ...
Thanks for the great write up. Ray
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5.0L, 2.1l Kenne Bell, Tickford T3 Heads, Crow valve springs, YellaTerra 1.7 Rockers, Comp Cam, Comp D-Row Timing, 10mm LiveWire Leads, LC-1 & Moats Quarterhorse, B&M TransCooler, Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump, King Superlow Coil Springs, John Bowe Superlow Pro Leaf Springs, K&N 4" Pod & CAI, Pacemakers, 100c Cats, 2.5" Redback, 19" FPV Rims, BF-T Prem Brakes, TS50 Bumper with DTRL's, Custom FG Bulge, BA XR Side Skirts/Rear bar Ford Performance Club of ACT [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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04-12-2013, 03:13 AM | #3 | ||
T-Series Club Member Vic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne (South-East)
Posts: 2,756
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Links to the current items on eBay, will be out of date soon of course, but may still be useful for someone.
Brand new genuine remotes for $65 + postage. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Keypad-Re...item35b3aa5c81 The button/switches. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151178763644 A replacement shell/cashing while you're at it. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-buttons...item25818b1dc9 |
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04-12-2013, 05:57 AM | #4 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,488
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Hi. Before changing switches you can try cleaning the existing switches with isopropal alcohol. Cheers MD
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HI I'M MICHAEL 2003 ACID RUSH BA FUTURA WAGON light up window switches | auto on cruise control | doubleclick window lift from remote |
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04-12-2013, 12:21 PM | #5 | ||
T-Series Club Member Vic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne (South-East)
Posts: 2,756
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This sounds like a great idea as they certainly feel like they're gummed up with the lubricant. I'll try this tonight on the fourth button
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05-12-2013, 01:05 AM | #6 | ||
T-Series Club Member Vic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Melbourne (South-East)
Posts: 2,756
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Yep, the isopropyl alcohol on an cotton bud made the (still original) panic button click again. Nowhere as nice an action as the new switches, but it's still a great idea to try this first and about a million times easier ;)
Thanks foxtrot3 |
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