PBR or DBA Rotors

[XR6WGN]

Hi there, I am going to need some new rotors soon for my EF XR6 wagon. (Fronts for now)

Firstly: I am currently running DBA slotted rotors with the QFM HPX pad. The one thing I have noticed is that the wear on my left rotor is a lot worse than the right hand in as far as the slots have almost worn away on the left front whilst the right's is still noticeable as a slotted rotor. I guess I'm up for a caliper rebuild??

Sorry but I just wanted to ask - If you look at the T2 DBA slotted rotor and the PBR Slotted rotor, which one would be the better rotor??
I'm wanting to stay with the DBA but I was just wondering on the PBR alternative as I haven't really used PBR in the past. (But I do know of them)

Could I possibly get prices for both brands - Front & Rear (1995 XR6 Wagon W/ ABS)

Cheers

[FLOORED]

Originally Posted by XR6WGN

Hi there, I am going to need some new rotors soon for my EF XR6 wagon. (Fronts for now)

Firstly: I am currently running DBA slotted rotors with the QFM HPX pad. The one thing I have noticed is that the wear on my left rotor is a lot worse than the right hand in as far as the slots have almost worn away on the left front whilst the right's is still noticeable as a slotted rotor. I guess I'm up for a caliper rebuild??

Sorry but I just wanted to ask - If you look at the T2 DBA slotted rotor and the PBR Slotted rotor, which one would be the better rotor??
I'm wanting to stay with the DBA but I was just wondering on the PBR alternative as I haven't really used PBR in the past. (But I do know of them)

Could I possibly get prices for both brands - Front & Rear (1995 XR6 Wagon W/ ABS)

Cheers

My prefernece is the DBA rotors as the quality is much better in my opinion. The PBR still have the straight slots and i do not sell them sorry but if you want i can quote the dba t2 if you wish.
Check the calipers and slides out to see if they are all lubricated and slide well as it could be sticking to cause the issue.

[XR6WGN]

Hi Matt and thank you for the reply.

I think my preference would also be for the DBA - I have tended to use these in the past and been fairly happy with them.

I was only really asking about the PBRs as a couple of my usual suppliers now seem to stock more of them instead of the DBAs.

If you could quote me on the T2 Slotted DBAs that would be great. (Give me the price of both front and rear because I'll probably be doing them in the near future also.)

Thanks for the tip on the calipers / slides too, I'll be getting them all checked over at my next service.

[FLOORED]

DBA T2 slotted are $240 pair front and $210 a pair for rear plus freight or hopefully they may have stock in SA and you can either pick up or we can freight from tere.

[MattSAU2XR8]

I bought a set of PBR slotted 'sports' front rotors a few months back and they were pretty hopeless - 0.06 mm out on one side and 0.12 mm out on the other straight out of the box, on near new hubs on a near new car. This is on stark contrast to the factory rotors, also made by PBR, which were perfect when new. Either PBR supply better toleranced rotors to Ford, or Ford must send a hell of a lot of rotors back to PBR :-( I'd be calling whatever company you decide to buy from before you buy the rotors to confirm what their tolerance is for that particular rotor, and also consider getting them from someone fairly local as the return postage can be massive if you have to send them back.

[FLOORED]

Originally Posted by MattSAU2XR8

I bought a set of PBR slotted 'sports' front rotors a few months back and they were pretty hopeless - 0.06 mm out on one side and 0.12 mm out on the other straight out of the box, on near new hubs on a near new car. This is on stark contrast to the factory rotors, also made by PBR, which were perfect when new. Either PBR supply better toleranced rotors to Ford, or Ford must send a hell of a lot of rotors back to PBR :-( I'd be calling whatever company you decide to buy from before you buy the rotors to confirm what their tolerance is for that particular rotor, and also consider getting them from someone fairly local as the return postage can be massive if you have to send them back.

May i ask how these rotors were measured for run out ?
.05 is about the maximum run out and generally speaking you wouldn't feel shudder to about .08 so your 0.12 is not where they should be and most unusual to see come out of the box considering the process a rotor goes through these days.
Had you contacted me previously about this and also may i get the invoice number and date of your purchase as i would like to ask a few more questions about this thanks if it is us you purchased them through.

PS. I now have this vague memory of someone asking about dial indicators and fitting new rotors on the forum some time ago as well.

[MattSAU2XR8]

I didn't get the PBR discs from you Matt - by rights I should have just bought some DBA discs from you in the first place - like they say poor man pays twice. I did check them with a dial gauge, after cleaning the hubs with a wire brush, and they were no good. Also tried indexing them and no matter where I put them the runout was the same. Also got a local race mechanic to have a look at them - he agreed with me, and he's pretty good, in his workshop he's got a race car that he built all by himself - it's basically a Nascar with a 6.5 litre mid mounted V8, full spaceframe, transaxle, enormous brakes, laps faster than a current touring car when he takes it out :-) After I sanded back the mating surfaces on the discs I managed to get them all under 0.04 mm runout and end of vibration, but next time I'll just buy DBAs and be done with it.

[FLOORED]

Originally Posted by MattSAU2XR8

I didn't get the PBR discs from you Matt - by rights I should have just bought some DBA discs from you in the first place - like they say poor man pays twice. I did check them with a dial gauge, after cleaning the hubs with a wire brush, and they were no good. Also tried indexing them and no matter where I put them the runout was the same. Also got a local race mechanic to have a look at them - he agreed with me, and he's pretty good, in his workshop he's got a race car that he built all by himself - it's basically a Nascar with a 6.5 litre mid mounted V8, full spaceframe, transaxle, enormous brakes, laps faster than a current touring car when he takes it out :-) After I sanded back the mating surfaces on the discs I managed to get them all under 0.04 mm runout and end of vibration, but next time I'll just buy DBAs and be done with it.

Ok mate just wasn't sure and sounds like a beast of a car.
One thing that does make me curious though and please i am not having a go here but you said that once you sanded back the mating surfaces you got them all under 0.04mm so can you just clarify something for me. The procedure of cleaning the mating surfaces is what has to be done to every car before disc rotors are applied at any time so there is no surprise once it was done they came up ok OR are you saying you had to clean the mounting face of the new disc rotor as well and if so did it have the anti corrosion dip on it that made it uneven? Your reply will help me as i have seen some of the anti corrosion coatings on some rotors look unevenly applied.

[MattSAU2XR8]

Hi Matt, sorry about the delay, I hadn't actually considered whether the anti-corrosion coating could be the problem, but what I actually did was sand into the iron making up the mating surface of the disc, so that it was no longer flat, but once bolted up the wheel would tend to bow the disc very slightly to sit closer to true. Very slow and long winded process which I'd not really recommend to anyone in hindsight. I think in future I'll just buy DBA or get a brake mob to check any other brands on the lathe before I fit them, particularly if using them with grippy pads which I suspect make them more likely to grab.