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Old 23-11-2005, 06:27 AM   #1
Angelcoupe
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Default Computer Reset

Hi people, I have done the air intake upgrade with K&N Filter and everything went sweet.
Went for a big run and car ran excellent,however next morning dead battery.
I fitted new battery and got the worksheet on restart procedure and followed it exactly.
When i restarted the car its idling was erratic ( 120kms later its better but not what it was)and the thing i hate the most is the "inst Lt'rs per KMs" readout says that we are using feul when we slow to an almost stop.It used to always be dead accurate and show decreasing usage until we stopped and it showed 0.
Q: When i logged onto Fordmods it has a cple of xtra things its says to do?
Has anyone had this small but annoying problem? and should i just try the procedure again?? :

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Old 24-11-2005, 08:26 PM   #2
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Just try it again, I've done it a few times now and never had an issue.
As for the DTE, give it a month and it will be acruate again, it just needs to get enough info to work it all out again, pretty normal behaviour.
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Old 25-11-2005, 12:15 PM   #3
Angelcoupe
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Thanks Casper..Only had our car 2 mths so not used to all its features.
My XB Coupe much easier to work on.
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Old 25-11-2005, 04:22 PM   #4
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Regardles of what the gurus say I do believe that you should go and get yourself some new spark plugs ,install those and then do the reset. For all the engine management specialist around I have come to the conclusion that the eecv learns as it goes.As the engine wears it subtley adjust idle ,fuel and spark.If the plugs or injectors are a bit iffy then the reset takes the ecu to base maps then starts relearning what the car is doing.Sometimes this is too big a step for the frail eecv so it has a heart attack and idles crap. Chances are after a week of driving it may come good but more likely to get worse or stay the same.
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Old 26-11-2005, 12:17 AM   #5
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Default Plug Guru

Useless, you love sparks don't YOU, Yes you are knowledgeable about them but you do have a fetich for them. Come on, :hihi: come clean Useless.
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Old 27-11-2005, 09:51 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleeperau
Useless, you love sparks don't YOU, Yes you are knowledgeable about them but you do have a fetich for them. Come on, :hihi: come clean Useless.
If I start on my love affair for sparks and electrical gizmos there may be a massive web server overload. Have you seen the guy in the Crunchy Nut ad?

Well I am like that about sparks. _2:
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Old 27-11-2005, 02:42 PM   #7
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my positive terminal on my battery is off the battery as we speak.. in about 20 mins i am going to hook it back up and do the idling thing with D and AC on and off and then in N with AC on and off for 2 mins each time..
then i am going to take it down the back streets for the variable throttle positions...heheheh
my question.. does the computer reset actually help because last time when my battery was disconnected, that procedure was not followed, only hooked back up and then i started driving it again.
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Old 27-11-2005, 07:49 PM   #8
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well all my questions have been answered.
before my comp reset, this is what was happening to my car
1- not starting very well and when once started it would idle at about 200rpm and then cut out.
2- a noticable power loss over time and not being able to lay down rubber on dry roads.
after my computer reset my car,
1-started perfectly and idled very well
2- layed down a sh*t load of rubber without me hardly even trying.

i am very impressed with how much a simple procedure improves things so much.
i must add but that my battery had been disconnected many times before and i had never done the reset procedure.
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01 AUII XLS Regency Red Ute 4.0L Egas Auto
Mods -transcooler, tickford intake, K&N pod filter, Pacemakers, 2.5 inch exhaust, Crow Cam,

1981 XD Fairmont 351 - 351 Cleveland, ARP bolts, flat top pistons, Stage 3 Dynotec cam, ported 2V heads with 4V valves, Roller Rockers, Weiand manifold, Mighty Demon, 1/2" fuel lines with blue Holley fuel pump, Crane hi-6 ignition, B&M megashifter, C4, hi-stall, shift kit, 3.77 Ford 9" LSD.

Thanks to: EvilChief and SJW Performance
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Old 27-11-2005, 10:37 PM   #9
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gees, i totally didnt even realise that reseting the ecu made that much of a difference. does it matter how long after changing the battery the procedure is done? i had to replace my battery about a little over a month ago as the old one died. but all i did was swap and go aswell. am i too late, or would resetting the ecu make a difference for me?
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Old 27-11-2005, 10:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BargeEA
gees, i totally didnt even realise that reseting the ecu made that much of a difference. does it matter how long after changing the battery the procedure is done? i had to replace my battery about a little over a month ago as the old one died. but all i did was swap and go aswell. am i too late, or would resetting the ecu make a difference for me?
Just disconnect the battery for 30 minutes, reconnect and to the reset. All will be good.
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Old 27-11-2005, 10:48 PM   #11
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awesome, i will give it a go the next time i have an hour or so to myself. and i am to asume the steps i should take are in this post from fordmods:

http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewt...resetting+eecv
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Old 27-11-2005, 10:21 PM   #12
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how do your reset the computer? ive got a 5 speed AU2.
thanx guys
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Old 27-11-2005, 11:22 PM   #13
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thanx

Jason
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Old 28-11-2005, 07:11 PM   #14
ClassicAU
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ok, i have just gone and disconnected my battery and am now waiting for about half an hour to go and proceed with the reset process. i am a little confused though with how to start off. should i drive the car to normal temp, disconnect the battery for a time, reconnect then reset? or am i to disconnect the battery for a time, reconnect, drive to normal temp, then reset? sorry if that is dumb and doesnt make sence.
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Old 28-11-2005, 09:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BargeEA
ok, i have just gone and disconnected my battery and am now waiting for about half an hour to go and proceed with the reset process. i am a little confused though with how to start off. should i drive the car to normal temp, disconnect the battery for a time, reconnect then reset? or am i to disconnect the battery for a time, reconnect, drive to normal temp, then reset? sorry if that is dumb and doesnt make sence.
mate.. go to www.aufalcon.com.au

and under the workshop link it has the procedures..
basically you just disconnect the positive terminal and leave for about an hour and then just follow the steps on aufalcon.. realy easy!
good luck mate!
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01 AUII XLS Regency Red Ute 4.0L Egas Auto
Mods -transcooler, tickford intake, K&N pod filter, Pacemakers, 2.5 inch exhaust, Crow Cam,

1981 XD Fairmont 351 - 351 Cleveland, ARP bolts, flat top pistons, Stage 3 Dynotec cam, ported 2V heads with 4V valves, Roller Rockers, Weiand manifold, Mighty Demon, 1/2" fuel lines with blue Holley fuel pump, Crane hi-6 ignition, B&M megashifter, C4, hi-stall, shift kit, 3.77 Ford 9" LSD.

Thanks to: EvilChief and SJW Performance
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Old 28-11-2005, 10:40 PM   #16
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Thanks for that Baboon_AU. Sorry I'm a little slow. :
Anyway, i went through the steps i had from fordmods, and i couldnt believe the difference. its like a new car again!!! i can hardly feel it shift gears, and the kickdown is so firm and responsive, even in economy mode! i didnt think such a little thing would change it so much, i am wrapped! :hihi:
funny thing is, the sequence i did is backwards to that on aufalcon, i hope its not just my imagination, although i am very sure it worked.
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Old 28-11-2005, 11:04 PM   #17
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The manual states to reset ECU at operating tempreture. Best way to do this is to go for a drive and get the temp up, maybe an half hour drive. Then disconnect battery and let it be for an hour to really kill off any KAM. Then follow reset procedure.

BTW, be careful with the oil/recharge spray for the K&N panel filter. Many people spray the oil on both sides of the panel filter. This is a no no. Only spray on the underside of the filter (the side that sits inside the box, where the cold air snokel is attached to) and not the top side. As the oil will be sucked into the air intake pipe and mess with the air flow sensor. There's no need to oil the top side.
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