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Old 20-08-2006, 09:06 AM   #1
Hords
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Default AU Oil Gauge (Fairmont Series I)

G'day all,
Just wondering if anyone experiences the same or had the "problem" rectified.
My missus had the AU I for about 2½ years. She's now gone a BA Ghia 8, so I've taken over ownership and want to tidy a few things up.
On start up the oil gauge will take around 8 - 10 seconds to climb from low to high (redline) and then stay there. Occasionally, but not always it will drop to about two thirds when in idle. This is the only to reading variables I get. I would assume the gauge should be reading around ½ way under normal operation and then increase a bit under revs.
Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks

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Old 20-08-2006, 09:17 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hords
G'day all,
Just wondering if anyone experiences the same or had the "problem" rectified.
My missus had the AU I for about 2½ years. She's now gone a BA Ghia 8, so I've taken over ownership and want to tidy a few things up.
On start up the oil gauge will take around 8 - 10 seconds to climb from low to high (redline) and then stay there. Occasionally, but not always it will drop to about two thirds when in idle. This is the only to reading variables I get. I would assume the gauge should be reading around ½ way under normal operation and then increase a bit under revs.
Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks
Its a common problem with the AU1's. Its an earthing issue in the engne bay.
Be thankful though, the AU2/3 got a "fake" guage that just has 2 positions. Off or half.
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Old 20-08-2006, 09:34 AM   #3
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Thanks Casper,

Do ya think a good sparkie could nut out the earth problem, or should I just put up with it?...
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Old 20-08-2006, 09:51 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hords
Thanks Casper,

Do ya think a good sparkie could nut out the earth problem, or should I just put up with it?...
Almost any decent sparkie would have come across this a number of times in the past for sure. It started with the EF if I remember correct.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill M
Casper, does the above statement apply to the AU2/3 XR's as well?
No, the AU2/3 didnt get a real oil pressure gauge. It was basically an on/off switch that was connected to a guage to make it look like it was reading pressure. Totally different.
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Old 20-08-2006, 09:49 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casper
Its a common problem with the AU1's. Its an earthing issue in the engne bay.
Be thankful though, the AU2/3 got a "fake" guage that just has 2 positions. Off or half.
Casper, does the above statement apply to the AU2/3 XR's as well?
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Old 20-08-2006, 10:13 AM   #6
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i imagine from what casper said that the design has changed a lot from the days of the ea, but i had an s pack which i had a similar problem with....all it turned out to be was the wire had come unplugged from the sending unit, it would always go right up to the red and go down really slowly when the car was turned off. plugged the wire back in and it was fine...
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Old 21-08-2006, 01:27 AM   #7
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I have the same problem on my AU1. I was really worried for a few months, and after checking a few things and changing the oil, i have been ignoring it.

Its a bit of a worry now that im ignoring it, because the day i do get high oil pressure, it will do damage and i wont even know lol...
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Old 21-08-2006, 11:23 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kryzak260
I have the same problem on my AU1. I was really worried for a few months, and after checking a few things and changing the oil, i have been ignoring it.

Its a bit of a worry now that im ignoring it, because the day i do get high oil pressure, it will do damage and i wont even know lol...
I think it would be low oil pressure that I'd be worried about. And you've got the "back up" low oil warning light.

Anyway, next couple of days off, I'll suss it out some more. If somethings' worked I'll post it.
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Old 21-08-2006, 01:42 AM   #9
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mine does the same.. if it decides to play up ill be sittin at the lights or just where ever idling away.. and she will start beepin and the oil light comes on.. lil rev and it goes away.. then slowly falls back down and beeps again.. *shrugs*..
ill fix it when i get around to it!
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Old 21-08-2006, 12:00 PM   #10
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It's a known issue. Ford have a TPS for this, and it involves having a earth wire from the neg post of your battery to one of nuts of the alternator mounting bracket. This is for the V8, but I imagine should be the same for the I6.

Basically, the engine wasn't earthed very good on AU1. I reckon putting an extra earth cable from battery to engine should work. But atleast the AU1 had a real oil pressure gauge and not a fake one like AU2 and 3.
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Old 21-08-2006, 10:36 PM   #11
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Thanks 012,
Tried another earth. Although it was a twist of three speaker wiring (high quality) from the alt bracket to block and then to the -ve of batt, no difference. Will pursist...
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Old 22-08-2006, 01:06 AM   #12
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if this is on the 6 cyl ive been told a ring terminal AROUND the oil sensor on the side of the block fixes the problem..
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Old 24-08-2006, 02:38 PM   #13
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Just had this issue fixed on the FBT - pressure was maxing out at just under half, at idle it was dropping in to the red and beeping. Went in to Ford hoping for a new engine under warranty (perhaps a T3 stroker, a man can dream...), but they put an extra earth wire on and problem was solved.
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Old 24-08-2006, 02:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenMachine
Just had this issue fixed on the FBT - pressure was maxing out at just under half, at idle it was dropping in to the red and beeping. Went in to Ford hoping for a new engine under warranty (perhaps a T3 stroker, a man can dream...), but they put an extra earth wire on and problem was solved.
What did they sting you for this?
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Old 24-08-2006, 02:51 PM   #15
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$75. The government's rape hotline was helpful, but seeing as the Mrs won't let me work on the FBT myself (I think she's noticed that the ZH is scattered all over the garage...), I couldn't avoid it.
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Old 24-08-2006, 02:54 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenMachine
$75. The government's rape hotline was helpful, but seeing as the Mrs won't let me work on the FBT myself (I think she's noticed that the ZH is scattered all over the garage...), I couldn't avoid it.
Thanks,

Access to the switch is a real ***** on the I6.
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Old 24-08-2006, 03:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hords
Thanks,

Access to the switch is a real ***** on the I6.

I know ... I have replaced one ... it's enjoyable to swap out (without the use of a hoist) ... NOT.
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Old 24-08-2006, 05:55 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechan1k
I know ... I have replaced one ... it's enjoyable to swap out (without the use of a hoist) ... NOT.
How'd you go about it? Even on ramps it's bloody near impossible. Trying to run a temp earth lead I found removing the air intake gave me best access for that (couldn't get a tight connection though). Can you remember what size spanner you used? I might try underneath again removing the oil filter and attacking it with a crow's foot.

Thanks for your input.
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Old 24-08-2006, 04:17 PM   #19
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Easy problem to fix on the I6's..

You have to run an earth from the Oil sender unit down to the chassis.

easiest way I found was to unscrew the oil sender unit, get an 'O' lug... crip the wire into the end of it, screw the sender unit back in through the lug, then run the wire down to a bolt/earth in the chassis somewhere.
Will fix the problem.
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Old 24-08-2006, 06:00 PM   #20
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man ... I just did the oil pressure switch ... not a sender.
Not fun ... best bet is using deep sockets after disconnecting the cable.

original need a 24mm deep socket ... and had to use a 25mm deep socket to put the new Ford part back in ... go figure.

Was a combination of taking the airbox out and reaching under the intake plenum ... and using a creeper and going from underneath (it sits just abovethe engine mount .... a right PITA).

I think if i had access to a hoist it might have been a bit easier.
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