ST guys what oil are you using

[jd dad]

Going to give the ST an early oil change just wondering what oil people are using? Looking at either Magnatec or a Nulon in 5/30 as recommended.
Went and grabbed an oil filter yesterday, they must use the smallest filter known to man. Half got the giggles when the parts guy bought it out.
On a side note ended up parked next to their brand new ST in black, was a nice pairing. Funny though I reckon the black makes them look bigger.

[Mainlube]

Originally Posted by jd dad

Going to give the ST an early oil change just wondering what oil people are using? Looking at either Magnatec or a Nulon in 5/30 as recommended.
Went and grabbed an oil filter yesterday, they must use the smallest filter known to man. Half got the giggles when the parts guy bought it out.
On a side note ended up parked next to their brand new ST in black, was a nice pairing. Funny though I reckon the black makes them look bigger.

We made the Mainlube 175 Synthetic Race Oil SAE 0w40 for the Ford Focus. (the only other SAE other than 10w60 we make in the 175)

Was told this is the SAE they called for (there is a shop in Albury selling this and other Mainlube products)

Cheers

Steve

[DreadlyST]

Shouldn't need to be changing the oil until 15000Kms or 12 months. That is what I was told by the Ford service department, During the 3000km inspection.
But each to their own!

[clem0x]

How many ks has your fist done? I heard it was recommended that you don't go full synthetic until after 15k. I'd be using a blend probably penrite 5-30w

TAPPITY TAP TAP

[RelSpecificity]

Filter can't be smaller than the one on my Impreza! Apparently the ones on some of the Renaults are particularly small and/or flat according to the guy at Supercheap.

As for oil, I'll be sticking with 5W30 Mobil 1; although it's now harder to get because Supercheap don't stock it any more (they didn't sell enough because it's too expensive for most people and it's not as 'flashy' or as well marketed as brands like Penrite/Nulon/Castrol etc.), but Repco still have it.

[jd dad]

Won't be going full syn yet, I am just extra fussy on oil changes. As its new just going to give it an early one to clear out any crap from break in.

[jd dad]

Oil filter is 70mm x 75mm

[Skramit]

Originally Posted by jd dad

Won't be going full syn yet, I am just extra fussy on oil changes. As its new just going to give it an early one to clear out any crap from break in.

Interesting as this contradicts every ford weapon I've spoken to about the oil. They highly suggest leaving the factory oil in to 15k.

[clem0x]

I'll be changing my own oil at around 5k and then again at 10 for my engine run in period. Fresh oil is always healthy for the engine

TAPPITY TAP TAP

[Skramit]

The mechanic I spoke to said the factory in German will be cleaner than the location you put you new oil in. The engines are built in spotless laboratories. No longer do cars get delivered with gunk and metal shavings in the oil. Putting new oil in at 5k is just money down the toilet and according to him stops the engine from run in in properly over the first 15k.

But if it helps you sleep better... hehe

/shrug

[Nitrobuggies]

Speaking to several mechanics the story changes between what to do. Some will suggest to drop the oil and replace it with some fresh mineral/blend oil at the 3-5k range, others have suggested leaving it till 10-15. Even had one suggest going straight to full synthetic at the 3-5k range.

They vary in terms of their expertise on engines. Ranging from race engine experience to general mechanic.

At the end of the day, engines these days are built to incredible tolerances and accuracy. Especially higher performing engines, which are built to high standards. I honestly couldn't see any harm in using fresh oil whilst its being run in. Especially if the oil is of high quality and a full mineral or semi synthetic oil. I plan on changing the oil at 5k, to a semi synthetic oil from Hi-Tech oils.. My dad has done the same in all his cars (from a 97 WRX 01 STI and Evo X) and the engines have always been very good, producing plenty of power (more then stock) and better fuel economy then standard.

I suppose if we all keep our cars long enough we will find out the answer one day lol

BTW when it comes to using full synthetic oil i will be running Hi-Tech 5-30w. Im toying with the idea of using Royal Purple once its modified, seems to be a top oil. But seen my Dad and Uncle both put great power out of their cars (Evo X and R32 GTR) on Hi-Tech...

[Skramit]

Btw I recommend Mobil 1. Best there is!

[nt0351]

Originally Posted by Skramit

Btw I recommend Mobil 1. Best there is!

try ULX-110,..you will change your mind

[jd dad]

There's a good all be it long winded thread on ST.org about engine run in. It's way over the top for mine but the basics still ring true about fine particles in the engines oil system.
For probably $40 to change its cheap insurance.

[DreadlyST]

Originally Posted by jd dad

There's a good all be it long winded thread on ST.org about engine run in. It's way over the top for mine but the basics still ring true about fine particles in the engines oil system.
For probably $40 to change its cheap insurance.

I've read that and found it to be a load of trollop!! Somewhere in that thread, someone brings up how to break in a truck engine! Those yanks have a different climate than we do here, some of them are at altitude! And their cars are manufactured in Mexico.
When I picked up mine I was informed that a break in period for this car was not required, basically just hop in there and drive it like ya stole it!! Had it for 7 months now and have not had any issue, I don't get this clicking noise from the clutch/gearbox like some owners have reported.
Why do some people think that they know more about their car than the manufacturer?
Would you descale your coffee machine every week when the manufacturer instructs you to do it every month? Waste of time, money and effort.

[Mainlube]

I think they're all full of poo!!!

First change at 1000 Klm to remove any tailing form run / bed in.

Your filter is 25 micron nominal? can wriggle 30-35 micron through as it's a paper element.

So why would any so called intelligent engineer want to leave this in an engine, no matter who what or where, I wouldn't be leaving this in for 15 K.

I see we're quoting a few of these, for the record, I have an Advanced Trade in Automotive Engineering with 30 years in specialised lubrication.

Sure when you change at 1000 K don't go Group IV, stay with mineral and a light viscosity until 15K so we won't bugger up the bed in process.

Those who say it's hardly worth it don't own the vehicle, it's all worth it when it comes to longevity for your new pride and joy.

Filtermag is a good idea to. (not sure what the filter dia. is so not sure which one)

Just my 2 bob for you.

Cheers

Steve

[RelSpecificity]

Originally Posted by Mainlube

Filtermag is a good idea to. (not sure what the filter dia. is so not sure which one)

Interesting! Never heard of those. First glance you think "oh, here we go, fuel polariser!" but it actually makes sense as you don't want metal particles circulating in your engine!

[jd dad]

Originally Posted by DreadlyST

I've read that and found it to be a load of trollop!! Somewhere in that thread, someone brings up how to break in a truck engine! Those yanks have a different climate than we do here, some of them are at altitude! And their cars are manufactured in Mexico.
When I picked up mine I was informed that a break in period for this car was not required, basically just hop in there and drive it like ya stole it!! Had it for 7 months now and have not had any issue, I don't get this clicking noise from the clutch/gearbox like some owners have reported.
Why do some people think that they know more about their car than the manufacturer?
Would you descale your coffee machine every week when the manufacturer instructs you to do it every month? Waste of time, money and effort.

Manufacturers also say transmissions are good for the life of the vehicle and don't need servicing? It may well be unnecessary but as I said for the minimal cost it's cheap insurance. Oh and I don't own a coffee machine either ;)

[ZiggythePiggy]

You should get a coffee machine. It will give you something to descale.

[aratic]

I've got a question, what if you don't do 15,000km in the first year? I'm pretty sure if you only did 1,000 km the dealer would happy change (and charge) the oil to a full synthetic without a single concern for whats best for your vehicle.

Its your car, do what you want with it and forget about what gets said on the internet.

Personally I take what the vehicle manufacturer takes with a grain of salt. They are only warranting the car for 3 years so why would they care what happens after that time? This is why Ill be changing my oil every 5k / 6 months, and I won't be using the thinner than water oil Ford recommend either (which by the way is for fuel economy over all else)

[Swoopdown]

How easy was it to change the oil?

[jd dad]

Bit of fiddling to get the front up in the air, getting oil filter undone was fun.
Must have done it up with a cpl of foot of pipe because it was as tight as the proverbial.
There is a clamp that needs to be rotated so you don't skin your hand on it. Need a smaller oil filter tool as they are so tiny. No harder to do than any other really.

[clem0x]

Those of you who changed their own oil, what oil filter are you using? Does anybody know what filter the service dept uses?

Cheers

[jd dad]

Genuine Ford filter on mine, just in case they get picky down the track

[clem0x]

Is that the motorcraft one?

TAPPITY TAP TAP

[jd dad]

Not motorcraft but got it at Ford and was identical to the one that came off it