Changing pads and rotors

shepv8 · 11-03-2009, 05:38 PM

Gaday, all,
Our o6 manual focus has 76000kms on it and at the service today they said rotors and pads need doing.
have read a few threads on this so I think I will be going for RDA slotted rotors. If anyone knows the cheapest place to point me I would appreciate it.
Pads Im not sure of. To be honest I dont need race car brakes, but an improvement over standard would be a bonus. So stuff like greenstuff pads and the like are a bit to much $$$$$ for the driving our car does. I think maybe the EBC ultimax reg 90 pads are better suited at $125.
I also have the options of stuff like ferodo's from repco at about $80 a set.
Also, are there any specifics to this job. When I did my BA XR8 the manual specified using new torque to yield caliper bolts which I did. I dont have a focus manual so if anyone has one I would appreciate caliper bolt torquewrench values etc.
Any advice on your experiences is appreciated , and also on who does the best prices.
Cheers

Tj-zetec · 11-03-2009, 07:05 PM

i dont believe there is a particular amount of nM's you need but i do suggest getting a hold of some temperature rated locktite. Should be able to get it from an auto spares place, try the place you get your rotors.

The only other difficulty you might encounter is winding the piston back into the caliper. I'm sure you've read up on it.

It's piece of cake if you've got the proper tool, but is a pain in the scrote if you don't.
I had to take the caliper off, put it in a vice and using the handle of a dirty great big screw driver to push it in, wound it back in using a pair of multi-grips.
Bit bodgy, but it did the job.
If you do take the calliper off, don't forget to bleed the brakes, obviously.

shepv8 · 11-03-2009, 08:03 PM

sorry, should have mentioned Im only doing front rotors and pads. Also why bleed the fluid? Ive always sprayed the caliper with brake kleen and then slowly pushed the pistons back in. Why do you guys bleed the fluid after doing this?

819_FLY · 11-03-2009, 08:52 PM

An easy way to push the piston back in if it is a simple piston type is after undoing the brake caliper put the old pads back into the caliper and open your brake resevoir and suck a bit of the brake fluid out (preferably with a syringe not your mouth) and then with a decent size screw driver lever the pistons back into the caliper body, repeat for the other side until the pistons are flush and the pads can't move any further. Then simply fit new pads and re-bolt the caliper back on the mounts. If you can find a torque do it to the torque, as it is brakes and is quite a safety orientated item. If they are about 15mm bolts then 150nm is a decent torque Tight, if you go F'n tight then you might strip or snap the bolt and put your car out of action for a day or so. Top up resevoir as needed.

Again if you have old brake fluid ie. 2 or more years old then replace it. Brake Fluid is Hygroscopic which means it absorbs moisture and decreases the braking performance of your car. New fluid with new rotors and pads is usually the norm to make the most of your updated braking system.

Tj-zetec · 11-03-2009, 11:13 PM

Well, what i was talking about was if you disconnect the brake line from the caliper.

but fly's method sounds like a smarter way of doing it, Were were you last year when i was doing this job!!

Oh, and if you're only doing the fronts then you wont have any dramas with the caliper. Really simple actually. Although it might be worth having a good look at your rear rotors because from what i've heard around here, they wear just as fast as the fronts.

The minimum thickness should be stamped on the edge of the rotor. If not do a quick search, it's been mentioned before.

Mullett · 13-03-2009, 09:31 AM

Get a brake calliper spreader...they're $10 :P

For pads, on the budget end, I'd get Bendix Ultimates (about $50 an end, if you're changing pads do front and rear), if you're happy to spend $120ish, get Ferrodo DS1200, they're a great pad, and can be used for mild track work.

-RM.