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Old 16-01-2011, 09:10 AM   #1
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Default Cluster question High series

Looking at getting a high series cluster. Now I have an auto. Is there any difference if the cluster comes from an auto or manual?
I know that my sons Fairmont has a panel that shows what gear you are in.
Oh and how much? Whats a 'usual' price?

UK

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Old 16-01-2011, 10:18 AM   #2
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iv got a AU2 Fairmont Cluster in my Manual AU3, the gear selector screen is just blank, but also not that AU1 have the auto display in a separate screen, but AU2 and3 just have it in the same screen as the odo.

im not sure if XR clusters are the same... i know they dont show which individual doors open, but iv never heard of auto or manual clusters being a problem, id say there all the same

Just remember not to get a S1 cluster (assuming its for your S2)

i got my cluster for $31 on ebay, but i did buy a new clear plastic thing as the original one was all scratched, so around $50 all up, obviously XR and T series cluster go up from there...

Cheers Cam
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Old 16-01-2011, 11:47 AM   #3
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Default

Thanks. I have a Series II (otherwise I would have pinched my sons LOL).
I tried his but the speedo goes nuts for one.

UK
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Old 16-01-2011, 12:06 PM   #4
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Thought this might help
AU 2-3 High Series Cluster Upgrade
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Old 21-01-2011, 04:05 PM   #5
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Question Update :)

Will I now have a High series cluster out if a AU Series II. To my surprise everything seems OK except for one thing, I'm not getting any dash light when I turn on the parkers/driving lights.
Can any one help ??
UK
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Old 21-01-2011, 05:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle_Ken
Will I now have a High series cluster out if a AU Series II. To my surprise everything seems OK except for one thing, I'm not getting any dash light when I turn on the parkers/driving lights.
Can any one help ??
UK
My memory may be way off but is there not a fuse on the panel inside the car that protects the cluster? Maybe a simple fix.
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Old 21-01-2011, 09:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourl6
Thought this might help
AU 2-3 High Series Cluster Upgrade
hey mate,

did you move the 4 pins over as demonstrated in the link that fourl6 posted?
if you dont do this you wont get illumination or abs warning or right hand blinker

cheers
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Old 21-01-2011, 09:13 PM   #8
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by FYRE_81_AUI_00
hey mate,

did you move the 4 pins over as demonstrated in the link that fourl6 posted?
if you dont do this you wont get illumination or abs warning or right hand blinker

cheers
Oppps not yet. I don't have ABS but I do turn to the right every now and then
Will do this Saterday

UK
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Old 21-01-2011, 05:58 PM   #9
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Default

None at all? Not just stuffed globes?
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Old 21-01-2011, 07:45 PM   #10
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Default

Well the standard cluster lights work but not the high series
I'm waiting till dark to see if I get anything
Uk
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Old 21-01-2011, 08:48 PM   #11
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Default

OK So I have swapped globes around and no dash lights come on. Also the left blinker works (noise and light) but the right doesn't (no light but I get the noise).

Any ideas?
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Old 21-01-2011, 11:19 PM   #12
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if the speedo, tacho, fuel, temp, oil and batt work, then just move those wires and it should work
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Old 22-01-2011, 06:12 PM   #13
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Default

OK so you can tell I'm not an auto electrican buy trade.
I have looked at this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by fourl6
the instructions for series 1 are pretty much the same for 2/3 with one of the wires changing colour but all pin locations staying the same

The following wires need to be moved around, in order for the Mid/High Cluster to function correctly,
1. The Park Lamp Dial (+ Positive) Illumination needs to be moved from Pin 13 to Pin 2. - Brown
2. The Dial Negative Dimmer Illumination needs to be moved from Pin 21 to Pin 3. - Light Blue / Red
3. The ABS Warning Lamp Wire needs to be moved from Pin 8 to Pin 23 - Orange/Black
4. The R.H. Side Indicator wire needs to be moved from Pin 19 to Pin 26 - Green / Light Blue (Series 1 is White / Light Blue)

(Using the Photo Below) The Pin numbers start from bottom right and go in a U shape to the top right spread over the 2 connections, so a total of 28 pins one connection has 8 pins (that does not exist on base model wiring) and the other has 20 pins

this photos is of the back of a AU3 Fairmont Ghia Cluster with a AU3 Forte Wiring loom, with the pins removed from the connection








and



This is the high cluster


and this is the low



One loom has 20 spots the other has 18. I don't have a 26 pin link. What is going on?



UK
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Old 25-01-2011, 01:24 PM   #14
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Default Update

[QUOTE=Uncle_Ken]
OK from here I have :








and added mine



I used a spare Floppy drive power cord to make the conections.


Wil take a picture tonight to show the lights working.

Fingers crossed all good
UK
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Old 25-01-2011, 03:10 PM   #15
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Thumbs up

Yep, that'll do nicely UK.

Let us know if it's all working.

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Old 25-01-2011, 03:13 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GK
Yep, that'll do nicely UK.

Let us know if it's all working.

GK
Lust got back from a quick drive. All good. Right blinker works, Lights up and up on the dimmer. Didn't rewire the ABS cause I don't have it.
GK took your advice and made it easy to reverse if I want to.

Will probbaly write this up later tonight.

UK
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Old 22-01-2011, 06:31 PM   #17
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Quote:
(Using the Photo Below) The Pin numbers start from bottom right and go in a U shape to the top right spread over the 2 connections, so a total of 28 pins one connection has 8 pins (that does not exist on base model wiring) and the other has 20 pins
this is talking about the connection in the cluster, not the actual wiring loom
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Old 22-01-2011, 06:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourl6
this is talking about the connection in the cluster, not the actual wiring loom
Thanks for this. So i place the wires direct into the cluster (where the looms don't go?

UK
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Old 22-01-2011, 06:58 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle_Ken
Thanks for this. So i place the wires direct into the cluster (where the looms don't go?

UK
yeah thats it.
i just made the ends of the loom a little tighter by squeezing them a little with some pliers, then covered the ends with heat shrink and pushed them onto the cluster pins.
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Old 22-01-2011, 07:07 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourl6
yeah thats it.
i just made the ends of the loom a little tighter by squeezing them a little with some pliers, then covered the ends with heat shrink and pushed them onto the cluster pins.
So...



I pull out a wire and place it in the 'blank' section (in the correct spot, this image is not accurate)

UK
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Old 22-01-2011, 07:15 PM   #21
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correct
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Old 22-01-2011, 08:37 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourl6
correct
Thanks for this will try tomorrow.

UK
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Old 22-01-2011, 11:35 PM   #23
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Rod - heat shrink for the bare wires going into the new pin position is a must. We did it pretty much that way on GKs too.
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Old 23-01-2011, 12:06 PM   #24
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How to you 'pop' the wires out without breaking them?

UK
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Old 23-01-2011, 12:35 PM   #25
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i used a really small flat screwdriver to poke them out, the plug has little plastic clips holding them in
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Old 23-01-2011, 03:19 PM   #26
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UK- to remove the wires you need to move the inside white part of the plug, it will slide across if you push the sides out slightly holding in place
then like fourl6 said a very small flat screw driver or i got some thin gauge wire myself and on the wire where its clipped in you will see a small gap shove the screw driver or wire in there as far as you can and it should release the clip holding it in, then just pull on the wire and it should pop out

and as advised get some tape or heat shrink and cover up the 4 wires you are moving to stop them shorting out on the other pins or go to the wreckers and get a plug from a high series which is what i did and makes it alot easier if you intend on stuffing around with the cluster more in the future

cheers mate hope it all goes well
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Old 23-01-2011, 06:00 PM   #27
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Hi UK.

Pic as promised.

On the SR, we used small gold connectors (Dick Smith) to which we soldered wire to. then we actually cut the wires needed from the plug and used connectors to join the cut wire, with the wire soldered to the gold connector. This way, if you wanted to put the old cluster back in, and sell off the Tickford or High Series item, you could do so quite easily.

Just another way of doing it.

Shalom,

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Old 23-01-2011, 09:58 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GK
Hi UK.

Pic as promised.

On the SR, we used small gold connectors (Dick Smith) to which we soldered wire to. then we actually cut the wires needed from the plug and used connectors to join the cut wire, with the wire soldered to the gold connector. This way, if you wanted to put the old cluster back in, and sell off the Tickford or High Series item, you could do so quite easily.

Just another way of doing it.

Shalom,

GK
Thanks GK
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Old 23-01-2011, 06:01 PM   #29
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Well instead of going nuts with rewiring I have been a busy lad....looking for my CAR KEYS....AHHHHH....
I can't find them. Been looking for 3 hours, I only have a spare remote and of course I put the power windows down this morning. This has not been a good day.

UK
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Old 23-01-2011, 06:12 PM   #30
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if you can't find your keys... i can PM you a way to activate your cluster/BCM which means you can put the windows up... done it on the wagon..


better still, get 1 wire, slip it into the "Radio" fuse at the fuse box, then get the other end and slide that into the "Cluster" fuse.... its worked for me..
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