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13-09-2010, 09:13 PM | #1 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 20
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Dear all,
Oil leaking, causing outside oily surface of the timing belt cover and surrounding areas, especially under that area on the axle/chassis of the front right wheel, causing constant oil loss. Opened timing belt cover for inspection and noticed the majority inside surface of cover very oily. Also, the engine surface behind the timing belt also oiled. No oil on timing belt, thank goodness... I'm not sure from where the oil is leaking but it was suggested to me that the oil pump seal is defective and needs replacement. This may require dismantling and lifting of engine, for the seal replacement. While the oil loss is relatively small, I'm not certain if this is the cause but any educated advice on my problem will be handy. Many thanks, Flokos |
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25-10-2011, 10:14 PM | #2 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 20
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Dear all,
Help with O ring oil seals - replacement My story with my trusty Telstar 2.0/4cyl - AR 1985 auto: Following a sudden loss of power recently (went dead - no warning indicators, the cranking attempts sounded differently. I did not think that I had a sparkplug-leads failure, or ignition coin or starter failure (hoped not). I've managed to tow the car back home and after more careful checks, I've opened the timing belt cover and voila! - the timing belt was cut internally (failed). It was replaced with a new one, but the oil on the inside of the cover was mixed with water (milky). In the meantime, a coolant change was planned and found out that it was gradually escaping from under the water pump. Water pump replaced and no issues. Still, I have the oil leak from behind the crankshaft sprocket, and possibly, the camshaft (See Dirty hands response to Deleese - 12/3/2006). Removing the aggrrr O ring : I have a problem in turning the bolt that holds the crankshaft sprocket. Is the bolt turning tighter by turning clockwise? ie do I turn it anticlockwise to unbolt it? I'm afraid that the Blue boys have applied some thin white cement glue during manufactuting, that makes it so hard to unbolt, similar to the 6 bolts that hold the alternator pulley that came out easier. Do you have any method of unbolting this nasty piece? Also, any bolt removal for replacing the top O ring oil seal (camshaft) will be appreciated. My tank has done only 244,000 kms and is still going strong. Went to the dealer and was quoted about 3 hours for the bolt removal, oil seal change (bottom one),belt insert & timing for an unpalatable price. Cheers, Flokos |
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25-10-2011, 10:31 PM | #3 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Serpentine W.A.
Posts: 1,639
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use a rattle gun to remove the harmonic ballencer bolt. if not put timing bely back on then rest a socket knuckle bar on chasis rail & crank engine, but dont let engine run just short cranks till you "crack" the bolt
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XC GS OLD SCHOOL MUSCLE Audi A4 S-line quttro Xc falcon Previous fords- xc falcon 500 ,250 x flow 3 speed xc gs worked 250 x flow 4 speed xa Fairmont 302 auto wagon xb falcon 250 log auto 4 door xb falcon 200 log auto ute xc gs project - had to sell :-( xc gs 302 4 speed 4 door xc gs 351 auto 4 door zf fairlane 302 auto zk fairlane 250 x flow carb auto zl fairlane 250 x flow EFI auto xg ute , BA falcon dedicated gas xd, xf x 3 ,ea,eb,ef,au x 3,telstar tx5 |
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26-10-2011, 12:58 PM | #4 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 20
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Many thanks falconhell74. We'll give it a good go. By the way, nice comfortable garage! Flokos
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