tensioner O Ring

aufutura_bloke · 12-10-2007, 07:00 PM

can someone please tell me how to replace the O RING on the TENSIONER. Im assuming ford mean the tensioner pulleys.

sly · 12-10-2007, 07:33 PM

That'd be the oil seal on the timing chain tensioner. Remove snorkel, fans, loosen belt, remove power steering pump from bracket, remove bracket and there's the tensioner on the driver's side of the engine. Inner bolt may undo cleanly or the whole assembly may undo. I've done this numerous times (once for each camshaft change) but I can't tell you exactly where the O-ring is. I have to do this myself soon as I have quite a good leak, but I suspect you'll be doing yours before me.

au2sw · 13-10-2007, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sly

That'd be the oil seal on the timing chain tensioner. Remove snorkel, fans, loosen belt, remove power steering pump from bracket, remove bracket and there's the tensioner on the driver's side of the engine. Inner bolt may undo cleanly or the whole assembly may undo. I've done this numerous times (once for each camshaft change) but I can't tell you exactly where the O-ring is. I have to do this myself soon as I have quite a good leak, but I suspect you'll be doing yours before me.

i had to do this just recently, and i didnt have to remove snorkle or fans. you can get to the belt tensioner with a 3/8th drive breaker bar then undo the p/s pump to get to the chain tensioner. i also added some ultra grey around the seal for added leak prevention.

sly · 13-10-2007, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by au2sw

i had to do this just recently, and i didnt have to remove snorkle or fans. you can get to the belt tensioner with a 3/8th drive breaker bar then undo the p/s pump to get to the chain tensioner. i also added some ultra grey around the seal for added leak prevention.

If you're strong enough you can deflect the belt enough to R&R it just by grabbing it & giving it a bit of a tug. My assortment of 1/2" drive extensions are either too short to reach through the PS pulley or long enough to foul the ratchet handle on the fan shroud, so I can't do it without pulling fan assy, which means pulling the snorkel first.

Fair enough he should try it without removing fans & snorkel first, but it's not too hard to do so if he needs to.

trick_xd · 12-10-2007, 11:30 PM

There is no good fitting " O " ring that you can buy

on this part there is 2 "O" rings on the filter

And when you remove this part there is also a O ring on there as well
BUT there is not a good " O " Ring that you can get to fit this part

waggaclint · 13-10-2007, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trick_xd

There is no good fitting " O " ring that you can buy

And when you remove this part there is also a O ring on there as well
BUT there is not a good " O " Ring that you can get to fit this part

The bit that you left bolted to the block has an 0-ring on and this is what leaks mostly....and you can buy them...

sly · 13-10-2007, 12:29 AM

Some others on here reckon they've got kits from Ford dealers for around $20 that stop the leak. Haven't tried myself yet, will find out eventually. Great photos though, spot on. Is that the "special tool" for releasing the tension or did you mod the allen key yourself? I always use a bog stock 3mm allen key.

trick_xd · 13-10-2007, 08:37 AM

Yep I " Modded " it

at Work I was doing from 2 to 5 Head gaskets a week So I have it down Pat ..

sly · 14-10-2007, 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trick_xd

at Work I was doing from 2 to 5 Head gaskets a week So I have it down Pat ..

Hopefully customer gaskets, not your own...

trick_xd · 14-10-2007, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sly

Hopefully customer gaskets, not your own...

LoL Yep

I don't work as a Mechanic now But still do "back-yard's"

GK · 14-10-2007, 06:32 PM

Great pics trick!

Cheers,

GK

blackers10 · 13-10-2007, 09:25 AM

goto Motion Industries(www.motionind.com.au).. we have a million different size O rings
compared to supercheaps "assorted" pack

also there is some good loctite products that may help

trick_xd · 13-10-2007, 09:57 PM

Yep I fell asleep and left that Pick out ...

even the O ring there is hard to find to get one to fit right.
I like to use selastic to put behind it so it does not course any trouble.

FS5 · 14-10-2007, 06:47 PM

is that an e series tensioner,looks quite a bit different to the ones i've seen in my au engines.
the au tensioners i've seen don't have an o ring on them .just the black housing that screws into the block.

FS5 · 14-10-2007, 07:00 PM

here's a pic of an au one

trick_xd · 14-10-2007, 07:23 PM

That is the tensioner You have a pic of there ... It sits behind the "Disc" in the pic of mine

Where the Allen key is sticking out of is the tensioner that you have picks of.

GK ...I did a hole step by step guide with pic's and what tools needed to do a Head gasket change and also a water pump change .

FS5 · 14-10-2007, 07:40 PM

ok now i'm confused,whats the bit in your bottom pic sitting above the alum key to the left? (in your 1st post)

i assumed it was the tensioner,my au i6's don't have this piece.

trick_xd · 14-10-2007, 09:41 PM

OK first you have this

So you undo the 14mm "bolt" and remove it
like this

Then you put the Allen Key into the center and turn it anti clockwise

While you Put a screw driver down from the Top and Help push the tensioner back By pushing on the chain Guide.

Then when You undo that "Disc" you will see the tensioner ....

BUT if all you do as I say You DO-NOT have to do anymore to the tensioner then remove the "bolt" and release the tensioner with the Allen key and screwdriver

**Uncle_Ken** · 05-10-2011, 02:48 PM

Help,

I can not get the inside blot to undo. Each time I turn the bolt the ouside ring starts to unscrew as well. Does this matter? Do I have to remove the whole outside case then undo the centre bolt?

UK

**Whoosha** · 05-10-2011, 03:58 PM

The 1 I did. did the same just took the whole lot out then replaced in 2 separate pieces

**Uncle_Ken** · 05-10-2011, 04:44 PM

Its all out now. Have ordered the new o rings. Pick up tommorw.
UK

**Uncle_Ken** · 23-10-2011, 11:21 AM

Ok after a week or so he chain is nosiy and stalling when run on gas. So I have removed the tensioner (again) and it has three states

1. undone

2. half way tight

3. Fully closed

You can see from this picture what the case locks onto

So my questions are.
a. Can I reset the tension outside the case, slide it in and then just tight it up or
b. slide back the outer caseing, then slide it onto the untighted spring (makeing sure nothing goes into the engine) and then set it?

And what settings, undone, half thighten or full?

UK

**Uncle_Ken** · 23-10-2011, 03:18 PM

Its back in now. Taking it for a run soon. Questions above still stand

Uk

blueau · 26-10-2011, 10:02 PM

you can swap the larger oring for an alloy sump plug washer, tends to work alot better

**Uncle_Ken** · 27-10-2011, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueau

you can swap the larger oring for an alloy sump plug washer, tends to work alot better

They do look the same in size. Will try and grab a sound bite of the engine to see what everyone thinks.

UK