76 ford escort ghia with pics. Would you put money into it?

bris-escort · 03-09-2013, 06:16 PM

Bought it for 1150 on a big gamble unseen. Owner hasn't driven it in over a year. Gave it a decent service, air filter, fuel filter, oil filter, spark plugs, quick break and diff check over but didn't change the oils. It is pretty stock except I can tell some rust repair has been done and I'm wondering what else has been changed.

I think the decal down the side is wrong? the front radiator support lower part being black I think might be factory like a stone guard but I think the sills might have been painted? Also I ripped off the vinyl roof and there are bits of rust 6 cm wide and 30 cm long.

I don't want it to be a show car, I will most likely get it on club rego so possible plans are.

New radiator - 300
Vented discs front - 150 pair?
New pads front - 60?
New break lines - 50?
New battery - 80
Rust repair for roof for the turret so pretty much the whole roof where the vinyl was - BEEN QUOTED 1150 by one shop and 700 by another. It has rust down the chrome trim that goes down both sides of the roof gutter.

I have seen some people repair the gutters down the car, some people cut them off and some people trim or not trim them. What is recommended? Here are some pictures. I like this community I am trying to involve myself with it. Thanks for any help. Also is this the pre emission or post emission vehicle? I hope it's easy to get it on club rego.

RSgerry · 04-09-2013, 10:36 PM

aside from a bit of surface rust, it looks like a straight and solid little bus. you would never see a huge return on any money spent on it, but the items you have listed seem reasonable and would make driving it a lot better. these cars are rare now and seeing a tidy one is a treat. if it was me, I would spend what you have suggested and possibly a bit more. for a smidge over $1500, you will have a nice and reliable little runner. enjoy it.

nstg8a · 04-09-2013, 11:05 PM

Is it a 2 litre one?

I'd go all in on it, escorts are great fun to drive, and they're getting pretty rare these days.

It's only money...

bris-escort · 04-09-2013, 11:58 PM

It's a 1.6 xflow with a carbie off it that is common for 1300s and geminis.. can't remember the name. Is this pre pollution or post pollution? Also what is the best new radiator I should look into?;

magagi · 05-09-2013, 04:54 PM

Looks to me like a post pollution. Anything after 76 is post pollution.

allanv6gt · 05-09-2013, 09:05 PM

Post pollution generally means it complies with ADR27A - check your compliance plate.

Some model codes:
Code Body Description Style Year
11612 "L" Sedan - 2 Door 62B 10/75 to 6/77
11616 "XL" Sedan - 2 Door 62D 10/75 to 6/77
11636 "XL" Sedan - 4 Door 54D 10/75 to 6/77
11638 "Ghia" Sedan - 4 Door 54J 10/75 to 6/77
11739 "Ghia" Sedan 2.0L - 4 Door 54J 6/77 to 12/78
http://www.rsmotorsport.com.au/ford_...scortmkii.html

bris-escort · 05-09-2013, 11:31 PM

What is different about post pollution that will effect registering it etc? also will 3 core radiators fit? any other tips/comments/ideas

thx

Puzzlescort · 06-09-2013, 06:38 AM

If you car is a 76 1600 the pollution gear is very minimal on it, If i remeber correctly it will have a carbon canister with a couple of vacuum lines, not like the later 2 litre setup

As in your previous post on Radiators...maybe post a pic of the engine bay to work out if it has already been modified

tips....for just a little run about

fit 2 litre struts when you do your brake upgrade - later models have larger bore & inserts are easily found, Escorts like & handle well when they are a little lower and firmer
Being a ghia it should have the twin barrel weber carb - if not fit that with a set of extractors with a nice exhaust...nothing too big 2 inch would be heaps
with the age of the car I would be swapping out all the rubber bushes with nolathane
Then the list car start to from there.......get it going & on the road then look at swapping things over depending on what you want to do with it
quick rack, 1 piece tailshaft, adjustable strut tops, LSD, GT gearbox (close ratio - makes a huge difference), swap out the 1600 - the list could be endless.....

allanv6gt · 07-09-2013, 12:25 PM

ADR27a dulled performance, increased fuel consumption, made things run really poorly....all because the motors weren't designed to run so clean. Modern technology / redesigns means cars are very clean running these days (check the 'green' ratings') .

Would agree wholeheartedly with puzzlescort re 'tips' - bushes, fluids, check seals etc.

Do some basic things to bring it back into a very usable state....and then improve whilst still enjoying it.
If you go thw whole hog now....
.....it can take a long time for no return enjoyment
.....the $$$ can seem endless
.....you risk losing that all important little bracket to hold that thingy in place
.....you can't remember how it goes back together (doh!)
.....you put it back together wrong (after realising the point above)
.....cars don;t like sitting around doing nothing - seals dry out, get damp/smelly inside, collect unrelated junk, etc etc
.....and lastly, sadly, you might lose interest and move on to something else (or general life changes impinge) without reaping your reward for you efforts

bris-escort · 08-09-2013, 12:23 AM

So the high compression and low compression 1.6 kents are really just pre and post pullution? are there any mk2 76s that are pre pollution from factory?

Quote:

Originally Posted by allanv6gt

ADR27a dulled performance, increased fuel consumption, made things run really poorly....all because the motors weren't designed to run so clean. Modern technology / redesigns means cars are very clean running these days (check the 'green' ratings') .

Would agree wholeheartedly with puzzlescort re 'tips' - bushes, fluids, check seals etc.

Do some basic things to bring it back into a very usable state....and then improve whilst still enjoying it.
If you go thw whole hog now....
.....it can take a long time for no return enjoyment
.....the $$$ can seem endless
.....you risk losing that all important little bracket to hold that thingy in place
.....you can't remember how it goes back together (doh!)
.....you put it back together wrong (after realising the point above)
.....cars don;t like sitting around doing nothing - seals dry out, get damp/smelly inside, collect unrelated junk, etc etc
.....and lastly, sadly, you might lose interest and move on to something else (or general life changes impinge) without reaping your reward for you efforts

bris-escort · 17-10-2013, 03:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bris-escort

So the high compression and low compression 1.6 kents are really just pre and post pullution? are there any mk2 76s that are pre pollution from factory?

anyone? got a new battery for it today and got it all fitted up I have a few questions. I got a larger one I think it was 350 cranking amps however once I start it the headlights are very dull and the indicators won't work. However once I get driving it they generally will start to work. Does this mean the alternator is playing up? also the terminals aren't exactly the right size but they are very firmly attached. Hope I don't **** this battery. :( Thanks all.

JimStone · 17-10-2013, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bris-escort

anyone? got a new battery for it today and got it all fitted up I have a few questions. I got a larger one I think it was 350 cranking amps however once I start it the headlights are very dull and the indicators won't work. However once I get driving it they generally will start to work. Does this mean the alternator is playing up? also the terminals aren't exactly the right size but they are very firmly attached. Hope I don't **** this battery. :( Thanks all.

Fuses are not making good contact - remove and clean contact points of the ceramic fuses and should come good

muzzy · 17-10-2013, 06:16 PM

C pillar rust is the killer, it's a big job as the original design trapped water and created the rust thru the vent, new C pillars are a custom job and require a high skill level, I had to replace both c pillars in my RS from the guard to the roof. And it about a 8 hr plus job to do at panel rates,
As the pollution bit, the early Ghia has the 1600gt engine with weber, Ford letters on the grille, blue oval grill single ford Carby and heaps less power
Cost to restore any car is the depth of your wallet

bris-escort · 18-10-2013, 01:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muzzy

C pillar rust is the killer, it's a big job as the original design trapped water and created the rust thru the vent, new C pillars are a custom job and require a high skill level, I had to replace both c pillars in my RS from the guard to the roof. And it about a 8 hr plus job to do at panel rates,
As the pollution bit, the early Ghia has the 1600gt engine with weber, Ford letters on the grille, blue oval grill single ford Carby and heaps less power
Cost to restore any car is the depth of your wallet

Any more information about what pollution stuff mine had that made it slower/worse etc? Mines got a 32/36 or whatever the most common aftermarket upgrade one is. Also the shop only wanted $1000 to repair everything from where the vinyl was, however that's with fiberglass and no guarantees/warranty which is understandable. Also it has a hole in the right rear guard where I'm assuming water would be pooling inside but I can't see without taking off the panel.. is it welded on? the boot has 0 rust from what I can see which is very funny. I just want this thing to be a road warrior. Will be my daily so need it reliable. Going to buy a new radiator next week. Also the rust isn't so bad around the vents it's worse at the front windscreen pillars/channel it's really awful.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimStone

Fuses are not making good contact - remove and clean contact points of the ceramic fuses and should come good

why does it work when driving but not started? it has enough power from the battery I'm sure of that.

jpblue1000 · 18-10-2013, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bris-escort

Also the shop only wanted $1000 to repair everything from where the vinyl was, however that's with fiberglass and no guarantees/warranty which is understandable..

That seems too much for a fibreglass bodge job, find a shop who will fix it once and for all. It can be done with patience. If cost is an issue have the whole lot cut out and plated over rather than rebuild the vent. There are enough air leaks in an escort to not need the vents.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bris-escort

Also it has a hole in the right rear guard where I'm assuming water would be pooling inside but I can't see without taking off the panel.. is it welded on? .

Not sure what panel your talking about, in an escort all steel panels are welded on bar boot, bonnet and doors?

Quote:

Originally Posted by bris-escort

Also the rust isn't so bad around the vents it's worse at the front windscreen pillars/channel it's really awful. .

This is tricky rust as the panels are hard to come by/rare they can be built up by an experienced panel shop. also a common area for mk2's

Quote:

Originally Posted by bris-escort

why does it work when driving but not started? it has enough power from the battery I'm sure of that.

Im assuming the battery is being used to keep it running as the alternator isnt charging at idle, once revved up it has spare capacity to run the headlights

Get some photos up of the rust and we can advise a best course of action from a fellow escort owner

JP

bris-escort · 19-10-2013, 03:07 AM

I will need to take pictures to show you better. When I said about it being welded on I mean similar to how the escorts front guards can't be removed without breaking the welds? I'm most likely confused. And I thought 1000 was cheap most 'smash' repair places only do insurance jobs and I had trouble even finding a shop that would touch it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpblue1000

That seems too much for a fibreglass bodge job, find a shop who will fix it once and for all. It can be done with patience. If cost is an issue have the whole lot cut out and plated over rather than rebuild the vent. There are enough air leaks in an escort to not need the vents.

Not sure what panel your talking about, in an escort all steel panels are welded on bar boot, bonnet and doors?

This is tricky rust as the panels are hard to come by/rare they can be built up by an experienced panel shop. also a common area for mk2's

Im assuming the battery is being used to keep it running as the alternator isnt charging at idle, once revved up it has spare capacity to run the headlights

Get some photos up of the rust and we can advise a best course of action from a fellow escort owner

JP

muzzy · 19-10-2013, 07:53 AM

Any rust repair must be done well, a bog job will only last 6 months
Rust repair panels can be brought , except A and C pillar they will have to be made by hand, having trouble finding someone, contact your local TAFE that has a panel shop, the teachers will know who in the area specialise in rust repairs

bris-escort · 21-10-2013, 10:25 PM

my rust is similar to this and has rust where the boot opens and meets where the hard top used to end on the rear guard.

muzzy · 22-10-2013, 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bris-escort

my rust is similar to this and has rust where the boot opens and meets where the hard top used to end on the rear guard.

My RS looked the same when I brought it, after taking off the rear vents and grinding back the area, well the rest is history, I cut at the roof and guard level with back window, de spotted the welded, , both sides new C pillars, I didn't refit the vent system.
Muz

bris-escort · 26-10-2013, 01:58 AM

between my front and rear doors the pillars are VERY dented. What could this be from? even slamming the door, I don't see what is metal there that could seriously damage it?

muzzy · 26-10-2013, 08:03 AM

Unusual to damaged B pillars
A and C are the rusting ones
I could only guess at roll over in a previous life.?
And it would be a guess

muzzy · 26-10-2013, 06:30 PM

I posted a pic of the of the rust remove C pillar under the yass car show

bris-escort · 27-10-2013, 05:12 AM

what would be a fair price to sell this for? thinking it's more effort than I can put into it

muzzy · 27-10-2013, 07:42 AM

That's bad news, that's the thing with escorts they are all pretty stuffed with rust and the man hours to fix is huge, check out eBay it a fair guide on people will pay

allanv6gt · 28-10-2013, 06:08 PM

You might get more parting it out depending on the general state of things and what bits are on offer (again, research feebay for a guide).

Anyone out there looking for a Ghia parts car ?

Sad to hear this might be the outcome.
(p.s. the brand new battery will fit your next Escort purchase !!)