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30-12-2010, 09:51 AM | #1 | ||
Donating Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,142
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As the title suggests, is it easy to replace my front wheel bearings at home? Any tools to make it easier or any 'how to' threads? Thanks for any help
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30-12-2010, 10:28 AM | #2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: ...in the shed
Posts: 3,386
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There is a how to, ill dig it up for you. Its a sealed unit so you're replacing the front hub, basically just remove the brake caliper and disc then the hub.
Same right through the AU-BA-BF range How to http://www.fordforums.com.au/vbporta...article&id=709 |
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30-12-2010, 10:34 AM | #3 | ||
Feel the boost
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Mount Gambier, SA
Posts: 283
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Hey mate, as long as you have the basic mechanical knowledge its a reasonably easy job. The wheel bearing are actually one piece with the hub.
To replace them follow these steps. 1.Jack car up and remove the tyre 2. remove the brake caliper and cable tie up out of the way (careful not to kink the brake line) 3. Remove the brake caliper bracket from the upright assembly (should be 15mm from memory) 4. remove the brake rotor 5. remove the nut from the front of the spindle 6. the HUB should slide off towards you. (if it requires perswasion, beware of ABS sensors) Replacement if the reversal of those steps mate. The new hubs can be purchased from most auto parts stores.
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30-12-2010, 10:48 AM | #4 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2007
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Also if you're looking to buy new hubs try FTG Auto salvage, i got a price of $50 each (they have them on ebay at that price too) compared to Bursons who wanted $93 each, Repco @ $113 each and Cheapa Auto Spares @ $145 each
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30-12-2010, 11:19 AM | #5 | ||
Donating Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,142
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Fantastic fellas. Thankyou all so much. I think ill save the money and give it a go myself.
EDIT: Melva Auto Parts here in Brisbane are selling them on ebay for $55 each. are they any good? Heres the link: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ford-Falcon-A...item255c40c116 |
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30-12-2010, 12:47 PM | #6 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Geelong, Victoria
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The only important thing is that you need to torque the bolt up to spec fairly accurately, too tight and it will distort it. The torque setting is off the scale on many wrenches, I discussed this before, but can't find the thread.
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30-12-2010, 01:12 PM | #7 | ||
Next upgraded Mk1 Leopard
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Location: Sydney, in the burbs
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look at this how to:
http://www.fordforums.com.au/vbporta...article&id=709 I just did mine and like AMB said the torque settings are the only issue. UK
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13-04-2011, 08:07 PM | #8 | ||
Sly like a G6
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Hunter Valley Whine Country
Posts: 1,808
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That howto is spot-on. My RHS hub slid off easily. The LHS one (which was noisy and allowed slight wheel wobble when tested) had signs of water in it and was rusted onto the stub axle so tightly that I needed to remove the spindle from the car and press the stub axle out of the bearing with a hydraulic press. The inner ring is still stuck on the stub axle. It's soaking overnight with WD40. If it won't budge in the morning I'll try heating it if I have any gas for my blowtorch... outside just in case any residual WD40 flames up!
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13-04-2011, 08:09 PM | #9 | ||
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Brisbane
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Make sure you have the socket for the spindle - it's a big sucker.
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13-04-2011, 08:34 PM | #10 | ||
Sly like a G6
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Hunter Valley Whine Country
Posts: 1,808
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The spindle is what ppl here usually call the steering knuckle - it's the upright that connects the upper & lower control arms. Between the 2 balljoints and the tie rod end, it needs 18 & 19mm sockets.
I take it you mean the caged hub nuts that hold the hub to the stub axle? Mate, I've already got them off. I take it "big sucker" means 36mm socket as mentioned in the howto?
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The Frankenfalcon... AU1.5 Wagon, BA brakes, AU2 booster, BA2 XR6T engine, stock from airbox to turbo, 8psi/98 octane tune 240RWKW, BF XR6T cat, quiet 3" zorst, Pex BSO660 & BSO439 mufflers, 84 db, built BTR box, 3.08 LSD, Emer SVI LPG, AU1 XR8 alloys, Momo wheel, JVC KDR746BT head unit, Aerpro steering wheel control wiring. Sleeper, anyone? |
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13-04-2011, 08:35 PM | #11 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 419
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and undo the nut as a whole dont think its locking tabs that bend out like i did
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27-11-2011, 10:19 PM | #12 | |||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Job all done and car back on the road ...thanks again guys for the little bits of info , all helped me to do the job Timmey |
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13-04-2011, 09:56 PM | #13 | ||
Sly like a G6
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Hunter Valley Whine Country
Posts: 1,808
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Ouch!
I did as the workshop manual says & levered the dust caps off with an old screwdriver by tapping it with a hammer... luckily I only pierced 1. But unfortunately it was the good one. The one on the water-affected side looks a bit dodgy, so I'll be replacing both.
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The Frankenfalcon... AU1.5 Wagon, BA brakes, AU2 booster, BA2 XR6T engine, stock from airbox to turbo, 8psi/98 octane tune 240RWKW, BF XR6T cat, quiet 3" zorst, Pex BSO660 & BSO439 mufflers, 84 db, built BTR box, 3.08 LSD, Emer SVI LPG, AU1 XR8 alloys, Momo wheel, JVC KDR746BT head unit, Aerpro steering wheel control wiring. Sleeper, anyone? Last edited by sly; 13-04-2011 at 10:01 PM. |
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26-04-2011, 05:29 PM | #14 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 5
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I replaced a wheel bearing using the guide referenced in this thread. That was about two months ago. Just this week it has started making a really bad noise. When I jacked it up to have a look and removed the road wheel, rotor and caliper, it was difficult to turn by hand, and quite grippy. (ie grabbed, then moved, then grabbed.)
I took off the dust cover and heaps of grease had come out of the bearing and had gathered around the nut. I'm assuming that the bearing is wrecked, but can't work out why. Does that sound like the torque wrench I rented was inaccurate and I over tightened it? Also, the guide says 305nm but another thread here says 260nm? http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=48203 Any thoughts? |
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26-04-2011, 07:47 PM | #15 | |||
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26-04-2011, 10:24 PM | #16 | |||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 5
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Quote:
I assume all the leaking grease is not normal, maybe some seal crapped itself? |
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27-04-2011, 12:54 AM | #17 | |||
All Bran = Regular Member
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Quote:
From then on, originals. |
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26-04-2011, 11:06 PM | #18 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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Quote:
Cheers |
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26-04-2011, 11:23 PM | #19 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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At that level of torque, I don't think overtightening by upto 10-15% is going to have that dramatic effect. 50% innacurate, then yeh.
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27-04-2011, 03:55 PM | #20 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 5
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I replaced mine again today (with another aftermarket one! - fingers crossed) the broken one fell off with bb's going everywhere after I undid the hub nut. The part that was broken was the plastic bit that spaced and held the bb's in place. There were chunks of it all messed up in the grease.
I hired the same torque wrench, which was calibrated in ftlbs. Something that I can't quite remember from last time. Now I'm guessing that last time I tightened it to 305 ftlbs not 305nm. This time I tightened it to 225 ftlbs and said a quick prayer and let the jack down. |
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28-04-2011, 01:25 AM | #21 | ||
All Bran = Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: BrizVegas
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Sounds as though you might have overtightened it a tad ;)
The aftermarket hub I did the write-up on has been in for 4 1/2 years and even though I don't do high kilometres I'm happy with that. I'd certainly go aftermarket again. |
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18-08-2011, 05:18 PM | #22 | ||
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Thought I'd ask here.
Anyone used these before? They've had 78 people purchase them but people tend to leave feedback before installing parts. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....#ht_1498wt_905 I'm almost certain mine need replacing, I have a lovely whirring when driving (related to speed, not revs). Just need to check my Torque wrench will do 300nm!
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18-08-2011, 06:09 PM | #23 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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Quote:
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21-08-2011, 12:51 AM | #24 | ||
Regulator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 4,168
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I just changed one of my wheel bearings/hubs yesterday.
The old one had separated the rear bearing cup onto the shaft. A screwdriver and hammer sorted that out in about 20 minutes. I didn't have a torque wrench, so what I did was mark two spots on the nut and on the spline. One when the old bearing was still in place (and nut was tight), and the second mark on the thread just before the nut comes off. Ended up just as tight as the old one had been in there. I've noticed a few of them separate on the shaft and the ball bearings in mine were all brown. It was stuffed!
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21-08-2011, 08:08 PM | #25 | |||
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Quote:
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21-08-2011, 05:01 PM | #26 | ||
AULTD
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For those in the Frankston/Cranbourne area I have a torque wrench that goes to 350 Nm and will lend it for free to members of the forum.
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02-09-2011, 11:46 AM | #27 | ||
gone fishing
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Morayfield qld
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Thank god for this thread, I have just replaced my hubs 1 of which was original (drivers side) 288000 Km's not bad going I would say I replaced the passengers side over 7 years ago and that would have been when the car was at just over the 100k mark
I got the replacements from E bay for $49.95 the pair delivered, hope they last as long as the other ones. cheers
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Cheers Whiskers |
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02-09-2011, 12:05 PM | #28 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
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I got my wheel hubs from here
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falc...item3f0c0faca2 The pair for $65, and they carry 2 year warranty and 40,000 kms. Pretty good I thought, seem to be ok so far but it's only been a couple of months.. |
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07-02-2012, 11:35 AM | #29 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 9
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Thanks a lot for the info.
Could you advise or point to the information about REAR wheel bearing replacement? |
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07-02-2012, 06:10 PM | #30 | |||
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