Au wheel bearings, easy to replace yourself?

[SSD-85]

As the title suggests, is it easy to replace my front wheel bearings at home? Any tools to make it easier or any 'how to' threads? Thanks for any help

[GS608]

There is a how to, ill dig it up for you. Its a sealed unit so you're replacing the front hub, basically just remove the brake caliper and disc then the hub.

Same right through the AU-BA-BF range

How to
http://www.fordforums.com.au/vbporta...article&id=709

[BuckTooth]

Hey mate, as long as you have the basic mechanical knowledge its a reasonably easy job. The wheel bearing are actually one piece with the hub.
To replace them follow these steps.

1.Jack car up and remove the tyre
2. remove the brake caliper and cable tie up out of the way (careful not to kink the brake line)
3. Remove the brake caliper bracket from the upright assembly (should be 15mm from memory)
4. remove the brake rotor
5. remove the nut from the front of the spindle
6. the HUB should slide off towards you. (if it requires perswasion, beware of ABS sensors)

Replacement if the reversal of those steps mate.
The new hubs can be purchased from most auto parts stores.

[GS608]

Also if you're looking to buy new hubs try FTG Auto salvage, i got a price of $50 each (they have them on ebay at that price too) compared to Bursons who wanted $93 each, Repco @ $113 each and Cheapa Auto Spares @ $145 each

[SSD-85]

Fantastic fellas. Thankyou all so much. I think ill save the money and give it a go myself.

EDIT: Melva Auto Parts here in Brisbane are selling them on ebay for $55 each. are they any good? Heres the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ford-Falcon-A...item255c40c116

[AMB]

The only important thing is that you need to torque the bolt up to spec fairly accurately, too tight and it will distort it. The torque setting is off the scale on many wrenches, I discussed this before, but can't find the thread.

[Uncle_Ken]

look at this how to:
http://www.fordforums.com.au/vbporta...article&id=709
I just did mine and like AMB said the torque settings are the only issue.
UK

[sly]

That howto is spot-on. My RHS hub slid off easily. The LHS one (which was noisy and allowed slight wheel wobble when tested) had signs of water in it and was rusted onto the stub axle so tightly that I needed to remove the spindle from the car and press the stub axle out of the bearing with a hydraulic press. The inner ring is still stuck on the stub axle. It's soaking overnight with WD40. If it won't budge in the morning I'll try heating it if I have any gas for my blowtorch... outside just in case any residual WD40 flames up!

[Scott]

Make sure you have the socket for the spindle - it's a big sucker.

[sly]

The spindle is what ppl here usually call the steering knuckle - it's the upright that connects the upper & lower control arms. Between the 2 balljoints and the tie rod end, it needs 18 & 19mm sockets.

I take it you mean the caged hub nuts that hold the hub to the stub axle? Mate, I've already got them off. I take it "big sucker" means 36mm socket as mentioned in the howto?

[chrispie123]

and undo the nut as a whole dont think its locking tabs that bend out like i did

[timmey]

Originally Posted by chrispie123

and undo the nut as a whole dont think its locking tabs that bend out like i did

Thanks to every one here for the info on replacing the bearing , I thought the tabs were locking too untill i came on here , and a 36 mm socket I found easy at the local tool shop .
Job all done and car back on the road ...thanks again guys for the little bits of info , all helped me to do the job
Timmey

[sly]

Ouch!

I did as the workshop manual says & levered the dust caps off with an old screwdriver by tapping it with a hammer... luckily I only pierced 1. But unfortunately it was the good one. The one on the water-affected side looks a bit dodgy, so I'll be replacing both.

[ds-fifty]

I replaced a wheel bearing using the guide referenced in this thread. That was about two months ago. Just this week it has started making a really bad noise. When I jacked it up to have a look and removed the road wheel, rotor and caliper, it was difficult to turn by hand, and quite grippy. (ie grabbed, then moved, then grabbed.)
I took off the dust cover and heaps of grease had come out of the bearing and had gathered around the nut.

I'm assuming that the bearing is wrecked, but can't work out why. Does that sound like the torque wrench I rented was inaccurate and I over tightened it?

Also, the guide says 305nm but another thread here says 260nm? http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=48203

Any thoughts?

[Whoosha]

305 according to the data base

http://www.fordforums.com.au/vbporta...article&id=577

[ds-fifty]

Originally Posted by Whoosha

305 according to the data base

http://www.fordforums.com.au/vbporta...article&id=577

Thanks for that. Does my issue sounds like I over tightened it or did it just decide to come apart?

I assume all the leaking grease is not normal, maybe some seal crapped itself?

[ronwest]

Originally Posted by ds-fifty

Does my issue sounds like I over tightened it or did it just decide to come apart?

Hard to say but I know a guy who has a few taxis and he will only use original Ford hubs. He had an aftermarket one needed replacing within two weeks and another within two months.
From then on, originals.

[saber]

Originally Posted by Whoosha

305 according to the data base

http://www.fordforums.com.au/vbporta...article&id=577

Yep, in the BA service manual, it states that the nut should be tightened to 300nm.

Cheers

[AMB]

At that level of torque, I don't think overtightening by upto 10-15% is going to have that dramatic effect. 50% innacurate, then yeh.

[ds-fifty]

I replaced mine again today (with another aftermarket one! - fingers crossed) the broken one fell off with bb's going everywhere after I undid the hub nut. The part that was broken was the plastic bit that spaced and held the bb's in place. There were chunks of it all messed up in the grease.
I hired the same torque wrench, which was calibrated in ftlbs. Something that I can't quite remember from last time. Now I'm guessing that last time I tightened it to 305 ftlbs not 305nm. This time I tightened it to 225 ftlbs and said a quick prayer and let the jack down.

[ronwest]

Sounds as though you might have overtightened it a tad ;)

The aftermarket hub I did the write-up on has been in for 4 1/2 years and even though I don't do high kilometres I'm happy with that. I'd certainly go aftermarket again.

[Simple6]

Thought I'd ask here.

Anyone used these before? They've had 78 people purchase them but people tend to leave feedback before installing parts.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....#ht_1498wt_905

I'm almost certain mine need replacing, I have a lovely whirring when driving (related to speed, not revs).

Just need to check my Torque wrench will do 300nm!

[AMB]

Originally Posted by fowlerj

Thought I'd ask here.

Anyone used these before? They've had 78 people purchase them but people tend to leave feedback before installing parts.

$50 for a pair of BA/BF bearing hubs with free postage now that's cheap. Quality control will be the problem, you might be lucky and they last for years, or you might just get the 1 in 100 (or more likely 1 in 20, considering that you only need one bad ball bearing in a 1000) that lasts only a few months. Problem with the feedback is that you probably won't know for a month or 2 if they are going to last -yes 20,000 km 1 year warranty , but I guess you have to send the failed hub back and wait a week or 2 for the replacement. Who's going to do that.

[Bobman]

I just changed one of my wheel bearings/hubs yesterday.

The old one had separated the rear bearing cup onto the shaft. A screwdriver and hammer sorted that out in about 20 minutes.

I didn't have a torque wrench, so what I did was mark two spots on the nut and on the spline. One when the old bearing was still in place (and nut was tight), and the second mark on the thread just before the nut comes off. Ended up just as tight as the old one had been in there.

I've noticed a few of them separate on the shaft and the ball bearings in mine were all brown. It was stuffed!

[saber]

Originally Posted by Bobman

I didn't have a torque wrench, so what I did was mark two spots on the nut and on the spline. One when the old bearing was still in place (and nut was tight), and the second mark on the thread just before the nut comes off. Ended up just as tight as the old one had been in there.

Great idea! I'll probably end up counting the threads (ie like you do when changing a tie rod) along with marking the nut. I'm doing the rear hub in a few weeks, was comtemplating getting a torque wrench, not anymore!

[peterban]

For those in the Frankston/Cranbourne area I have a torque wrench that goes to 350 Nm and will lend it for free to members of the forum.

[whiskers]

Thank god for this thread, I have just replaced my hubs 1 of which was original (drivers side) 288000 Km's not bad going I would say I replaced the passengers side over 7 years ago and that would have been when the car was at just over the 100k mark

I got the replacements from E bay for $49.95 the pair delivered, hope they last as long as the other ones.

cheers

[XESP351]

I got my wheel hubs from here

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falc...item3f0c0faca2

The pair for $65, and they carry 2 year warranty and 40,000 kms.

Pretty good I thought, seem to be ok so far but it's only been a couple of months..

[broms]

Thanks a lot for the info.

Could you advise or point to the information about REAR wheel bearing replacement?

[InfernoSR]

Originally Posted by broms

Thanks a lot for the info.

Could you advise or point to the information about REAR wheel bearing replacement?

The rear axles need to be removed in order to so these.