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#1 | ||
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 183
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Need to do an oil change on my sister's 2006 LS Focus (2.0L Duratec petrol engine). Thought it would be good to start a thread about this which contains all relevant information for such an oil change.
Oil 5W-30 oil is stated in the owner's manual Most people seem to go for Castrol Edge 5W-30 on this forum But i might try Penrite HPR 5W-40 as i've had good experiences with this oil before Oil Filter Ryco part number Z418 Funnily enough the Ryco site only has an oil filter listing for build date 05/05 -06/07 (LS model) Does the LT model use a different filter as i'll be doing an oil change on our 2008 LT Focus soon as well Sump Drain Bolt Remember reading somewhere the sump drain bolt is a 13mm bolt Can anyone confirm this? Will update this thread when i've done the oil change (most likely next weekend). Will take some pics along the way as well ![]() |
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#2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Victoria
Posts: 877
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Mobil 1 also do a 5W-30 oil now, which is an excellent oil, full synthetic.
Good luck with the oil change and i'm looking forward to the pics. |
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#3 | ||
Mad Scientist!
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 2,840
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I just use Nulon 10W-40 full syn and a the ryco filter.
I'm sure it's a 13mm sump plug. It's a piece of p_ss to do, just take your time. |
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#4 | |||
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 183
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Quote:
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#5 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Victoria
Posts: 551
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I did the 90,000 Km oil change today. It is possibly the easiest car to work on once the sump guard is removed... Actually it's really an aero aid not a sump guard. Oil filter is at hand, drain bolt is easy to get to and a good design with a built in O ring. Only issue I had is getting it up the ramps, being a Zetec it fouls the ramp on the bumper chin. Just ran the fronts up on 2" blocks fist then on to the ramps.
The car continues to impress even after 3 years. BTW I had new tyres put on during the week too, went for 215 / 45 / 17 because they were cheaper. |
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#6 | |||
Noobie
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 525
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Quote:
__________________
BrisVegas WS Fiesta Zetec 3dr NM Pajero TD LWB LS Focus Zetec 5dr - gone WS Fiesta Zetec 5dr - gone |
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#7 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Victoria
Posts: 551
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Quote:
They do look a little undersize too but at $195 each driveaway I'm not complaining. |
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#8 | ||
yum
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,417
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Sump plug is 1/2 inch bolt
__________________
2005 LS Focus LX
Nov05 | Manual | Black Sapphire 250,000kms. |
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#9 | |||
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 183
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Quote:
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#10 | |||
yum
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,417
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Quote:
__________________
2005 LS Focus LX
Nov05 | Manual | Black Sapphire 250,000kms. |
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#11 | |||
Mad Scientist!
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 2,840
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Quote:
Just order a new one.... only a couple of $$$ |
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#12 | |||
yum
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,417
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Quote:
__________________
2005 LS Focus LX
Nov05 | Manual | Black Sapphire 250,000kms. |
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#13 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Victoria
Posts: 551
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BTW what is the oil capacity on the LS Duratec?
I just dumped all 5l in coz I needed the container for the old oil... whoops.. |
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#14 | |||
yum
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,417
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Quote:
__________________
2005 LS Focus LX
Nov05 | Manual | Black Sapphire 250,000kms. Last edited by BlackLS; 31-08-2009 at 06:40 PM. |
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#15 | |||
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 183
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Quote:
I put in about 4.8L with filter |
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#16 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,259
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Just a few comments...
Oil - make sure that it meets the Ford spec for the Focus. And I'd stick with 5W-30, Castrol Edge or fully synthetic if you can afford it. Filter - I'd probably use a Ford filter, unless you can get a good quality US filter such as Purolator. (NOT Fram!)
__________________
MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. |
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#17 | ||
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 183
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Here’s the oil change write up i’d promised with pics. This is the way i change oil on all our cars. Your way may differ slightly.
I will not be held responsible for any loss of blood, life or virginity that may arise from you following these steps :P If you’re uncomfortable doing an oil change, get a mechanic to do it for you. Parts needed: - Oil (I used Penrite HPR 5 5W-40) - Oil filter (I used Ryco Z418) - Oil filter wrench - Oil drain pan - 13mm spanner and socket/wrench - Funnel - Standard Focus jack - Hydraulic trolley jack (optional) - Jack stands - Wheel chocks or bricks - Rags - Permanent marker (optional) - Garage creeper (optional) STEP 1 Make sure engine is warm, as warm oil drains quicker than cold oil If engine is cold take it for a 10 min drive After the 10 min drive turn off engine and let the car sit for 30 mins This will ensure the engine is cool enough to work on and the oil drains back into the sump STEP 2 Park car on a flat level surface Chock the rear wheels Jack the car up on jack stands Make sure car is securely positioned on the jack stands You don’t want the car falling on you when you’re under it! ![]() ![]() This pic shows the sump drain plug (yellow arrow) and the oil filter (red arrow) ![]() The drain plug faces the rear of the car while the filter faces the front of the car STEP 3 Remove the engine cover (pull straight up) Remove the oil filler cap Get under the car on a garage creeper (optional) Otherwise just get under the car on your back STEP 4 Position oil drain pan under the oil sump Oil will be hot and rush out quickly so be ready for this! Undo oil sump drain plug anti-clockwise with a 13mm spanner and/or socket ![]() ![]() Let oil drain out of sump (I let it drain for 15 mins) ![]() ![]() STEP 5 Position oil drain pan under the oil filter Remove oil filter anti-clockwise ![]() As you loosen the filter, oil will pour out from the top of the filter ![]() There will still be oil in the filter so be careful not to tip it sideways when you have spun it off completely and are removing it from the engine block Let oil drain out of oil filter opening into the drain pan for a few mins ![]() Make sure the rubber seal from the old filter is not attached to the engine block (remove if it still is) Here's what you've just drained out of your engine, dirty old oil (just under 10,000km old in the case of this car) ![]() STEP 6 Clean area around drain plug hole in the oil sump Screw drain plug back into the sump and finger tighten Do up drain plug with spanner or socket but not too tight so that it’s easy to remove next time STEP 7 Mark the date of the oil change and the odometer reading on new oil filter with a permanent marker (optional) Mark the direction of oil filter removal (anti-clockwise) with an arrow on new filter with a permanent marker (optional) ![]() Pour some of the new oil into the new filter Run a smear of oil around the rubber seal of the new filter with your finger ![]() Screw the new filter onto the engine block clockwise Make sure it’s only hand tight so it’s easy to remove next time ![]() STEP 8 Take funnel and fill the engine with new oil (about 4L) ![]() Lower car off the jack stands back onto the ground Now that the car is on level ground check the sump oil level and top off until it reaches the full mark on the dip stick I always put a couple of hundred milliliters extra as all engines consume some oil over time Replace the oil filler cap Run the engine for a minute, making sure the oil pressure light in the dash goes off as per normal Turn off the engine after a minute and check the areas around the sump drain plug and oil filter for leaks If leaks are present clean off and rectify as needed STEP 9 Replace the engine cover Clean up and put all your tools away Put old oil into new oil container (later on dispose off in an appropriate manner without harming the environment) STEP 10 Take car for a test drive When back from test drive check again for leaks After letting car sit for a while, check oil level once again for peace of mind, and top up if required Congratulations you have just changed the oil and filter on your Focus ![]() |
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#18 | ||
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 183
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Some random oil change info
Oil Sump Drain Plug Someone mentioned earlier in the thread that the sump drain plug is a 1/2" (12.7mm) bolt. The above oil change was done on my sister's 2006 LS Focus. I found it impossible to fit a 1/2" socket onto the sump bolt. A 1/2" spanner just got on but was a very tight fit. The 13mm socket i ended up using was a smidge too big for the bolt but got it off in the end no sweat. Out of interest i was able to fit the 1/2" socket and spanner onto the sump drain plug of my mum's 2008 LT Focus without any issues. Oil Filter Comparison The Ford oil filter is a Motorcraft AFL4 The aftermarket one i used is a Ryco Z418 As you can see from this pic the Motorcraft filter is a bit taller than the Ryco one. ![]() The only reason i can think of why the Motorcraft filter would be larger is due to the 15,000km oil change intervals. Since i change the oil every 7,500km this is a non issue for me. The Ryco website only lists an oil filter for the LS Focus and not the LT Focus. I checked the filter on my mum's LT Focus and it's the same Motorcraft AFL4 as used on my sister's LS Focus. So a Ryco Z418 will fit the LT Focus as well. Not sure about the LV Focus but i presume it will be the same, at least for the 2.0L Duratec petrol engine. Oil Filter Removal If you are unable to remove the oil filter off your car by hand, use the filter wrench to loosen it. If the filter is still on too tight, hammer a flat blade screw driver into the filter body. Once securely in, use the screw driver handle to push/pull the filter anti-clockwise until its loose. Last edited by mohit; 06-09-2009 at 06:09 PM. |
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#19 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Victoria
Posts: 877
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Any reason for the preference of the 5W-40 over the recommended 5W-30?
Thanks for the pics mate. |
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#20 | |||
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 183
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#21 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Botany, Sydney
Posts: 830
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Flushing when you change oil may be something to consider, especially when the vehicle is over 80,000 klms.
Flushing instructions here. Just a thought. Cheers Steve
__________________
MainLube - Extreme Lubricants For Overdriven Machinery Mainlube 175 Synthetic Race Oil SAE 10w60 (engine) Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w80 (gearbox) Mainlube 154 Synthetic Solid Boundary E P Gear Oil SAE 75w140 (diff) www.Mainlube.com.au |
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#22 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 545
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Quote:
If you really want to notice a differance in performance have a upper cylinder carbon clean this will do the injectors, ports, valves and combustion chambers. The cars fuel lines at the engine side are conected to a machine that pumps a cleaner fluid with your fuel while the engine is running. Worth doing at the 15 to 20,000k. |
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#23 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 545
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#24 | |||
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 183
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Quote:
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#25 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,259
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Thanks for the post, Mohit. Just a few comments:
__________________
MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. |
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#26 | |||
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 183
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Quote:
I would say most daily driving duties, especially short drives and stop start driving would fall under "severe service". Personally for me 15K km oil change intervals are too long which is why i change the oil every 7.5K km but as you said it comes down to personal preference. |
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#27 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Greenvale
Posts: 131
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Went to my local ford dealer in epping melb and asked if I could use my own oil, I wanted to use a better quality in my TDCi PENRITE DEISEL, manager said if they did that engine would loose its waranty????????
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#28 | |||
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 183
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Quote:
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#29 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,259
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Quote:
Mohit is correct; if the oil meets the Ford spec for your car, then it will not void the engine warranty. But then the corollary is also true - if it meets the Ford spec, then it should be fine for your engine. Although from experience, I certainly wouldn't rely on your dealer to use the correct oil - ask them exactly which oil they will use in your car and check that it meets the spec in your handbook.
__________________
MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. |
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#30 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 5
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Is it necessary to put both the front and the rear of the car on stands for oil change? If only the front is on stands, will some of old oil still be trapped unflushed?
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