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08-09-2010, 11:34 PM | #1 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 80
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Hi there,
I just read the thread on here about a bent manual ute pedal box. I have the same problem with mine - where the clutch pedal pivot just pulls away at the spot welding. Replacement pedal box from ford was quoted at $137 which I was quite happy with so my next question was "how much for you just to do it?". $700 and the dash out! My question is - has anyone done this? I am not real keen to do it if it is a dash out job, but if not then I'm happy. So is it a dash out job? I didn't think it looked like when I was under there. Can someone set me straight on this so I can sort my ute out! Cheers. |
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09-09-2010, 12:20 AM | #2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: jimboomba
Posts: 4,638
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im quite sure its not a dash out job, could be mistaken though
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Welder/Fabricator at Beaudesert Exhuast Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors |
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09-09-2010, 11:23 AM | #3 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Melbourne, Vic
Posts: 1,121
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Definately not a dash out job on the Au's unlike earlier models (E series), I have done this on my own car when doing the manual conversion i put the pedal box in myself. Took a bit of fiddling as there is not bucket loads of space to work with but you should be able to do it in about an hour comfortable if you have some idea on how to pull things apart.
Pretty much you need to disconect the brake light switch, cruise control switch (if it has cruise) and then i took the clutch pedal of the the side. Once this is done then you can undo the 2? nuts holding the box to the underside of the steering column, then the 4? holding it to the firewall/brake booster. Now you should be able to manouver it out. If you can't you can remove the shaft that the brake pedal operates off aswell if need be. Hope this helps, Rhys
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AU III Forte wagon - V8, 5spd man, lowered, 18" Honeycombs, Stock diff rebuilt with TruTrac LSD, Leather Ghia interior/dash, custom twin 2.5" into single 3" exhaust. Wagon Build AU I Forte Sedan - No longer
Toy Car Build |
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09-09-2010, 12:58 PM | #4 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 80
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Thanks for the info guys. A great help. Between this and the fix for that annoying leak on my foot - guess what I'll be doing this weekend...
Cheers! |
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09-09-2010, 01:05 PM | #5 | ||
XB in parts...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Sydney
Posts: 2,890
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Mine was done in the last 2 weeks and I'm pretty sure it wasn't a dash out thing.
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Daily Driver 2019 Ford Escape...looking for XR6T's. |
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09-09-2010, 02:08 PM | #6 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Sydney
Posts: 184
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Have had mine done and you don't need to pull the dash out. Also my mechanic reckoned it was better to weld up original pedal box than put in a new one as it would break again over time. Replaced clutch cable at the same time. Clutch is sweet now and has transformed the driving experience totally. Think I spent around $400 on parts + labour. But I'm happy.
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09-09-2010, 02:20 PM | #7 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Hornsby
Posts: 15
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Curious as to whether my car is doing a similar thing (I should have a look under the dash with a torch)
My clutch pedal has bent around to the left a bit, and is no longer engaging the switch for it. I'm getting the clutch replaced tomorrow as its starting to slip, so I'm curious as to whether my pedal box may need replacing aswel...
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2002 XR6 ST -Just a stocker with a droning exhaust |
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09-09-2010, 02:53 PM | #8 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Warrnambool, Vic
Posts: 266
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Quote:
Wondering if your clutch cable felt like the wire was burring inside the outer, My clutch is pretty solid to push in, with slight resistance(a bit notchy) which i believe is the cable. What were your results with changing the clutch cable? Cheers, Jason
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Stevo _____________________________________ 05/2000 AUII XR6 5sp|Pacemaker 4480 Competition Headers|Lukey catback|Tickford Azzuro's|Impco LPG Conversion |
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09-09-2010, 03:09 PM | #9 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 80
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My pedal was leaning to the passenger side which is what made me look in the first place. Also started making a weird squeaking kind of nice due to the cable not pulling straight like it should. Seems to be extremely common for these cars.
I think I will weld some reinforcement into the new one before I use it. When looking under there it is quite obvious how it all splits off so some good tacks with the MIG on a new one should be heaps. I'd never trust the old one again after the metal has been fatigued like that. |
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10-09-2010, 02:05 PM | #10 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Sydney
Posts: 184
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Quote:
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09-09-2010, 08:30 PM | #11 | |||
You can't stop the signal
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Behind a computer at work
Posts: 1,624
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Drop the collum and that will make it very easy to get the box out.
As for the cable, I'm of the belief that it is a consumable part, replaced once the clutch peal starts to get hard. I thinks it's to do with the grease drying up inside. Replacing it makes the clutch a lot lighter. I think I’m up to my 4th or 5th cable in 2 years. Also, once you reinforce the pedal box, keep a good eye on the firewall. My fire wall crack/split about 3 months after doing the pedal box. Cheers
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27-03-2012, 10:19 AM | #12 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 214
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G'day guys, I know this is a bit of a thread mine, but I thought it would be better than starting a new one...
Does anyone have any good pics or links to other threads on reinforcing the pedal box so it doesnt bend again? Also, the best price I can seem to find for a new on from Ford is around $250... Anyone got any contacts for a better price? |
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