vinyl on cars $$$$..??

[1TUFFUTE]

has anyone ever seen or got vinyl on there cars. Have been wondering about how hard and expensive it may be to get it over a bonnet and roof with some pinstrips covering the join. I did ask a paint and panel guy but he tended to think it wasnt done anymore. Not sure about that tho.Ive seen a few getting around...one in particular a ute with matt black bottom half with a green pin stripe...and it looks amazing.

any info is appreciated....ta

[DJM83]

I notice your in QLD one of the guys in our car club owns a tint shop in Bris and does a lot of tinting and vinyl work if you would like his details just let me know.

[Neale]

see a signwriter in your local area they can help you.

[Kevaclone]

I've seen plenty of other company vehicles with vinyl coatings with Company themes. Call Beaurepairs, seen their mobile tyre service trucks? all vinyl covering with their theme, there are no joins visible, they cover the whole panel with one sheet

[creative]

Wraps are very popular at the moment....

Something I have considered but never checked out the prices I'm afraid.

[casabonka]

Careful with vinyls on roofs and bonnets. Most films don't like horizontal surfaces if in the sun all dayand won't last as long as if it were on doors, tailgates etc.

[distortion]

I've done hundreds of these (sign-writer)... The key is to find a shop that uses only the highest quality vinyls - top of the range is the ONLY way to go here, as those who use cheaper vinyls will end up causing huge issues. I use 3M controltac (ask for it by name as its the industry standard) or Hexis car wrap vinyls. Avery also has a 'paint replacement' grade vinyl out now, but some states may not have it yet. If you're after a top notch job in matte, try hexis as their rolls come in 1500mm wide so there should not be any joins on most vehicles. Also, watch the applicator do the install if possible. Only very good applicators can install without needing to cut on the vehicle, and the good ones who do, will not even leave any marks or cut lines on the car. Also, the accesseries you may have on your car - rear window wipers or whatever else- take them off before hand! Makes the job neater. Wash your car thoroughly before getting the job done - but DO NOT wax your car as this will stop adhesion. If you are really worried about the horizontal surfaces on vehicles being out in the sun all the time, and you're going with a high gloss finish, there are conformable over laminates available with UV resistant properties that increase the lifespan of the vinyl underneath. That said, a good vinyl should last for a year or two in constant sun without too much fade. If it does, it can be replaced quickly. Another thing to check up on with your install once complete, is that the applicator returns the vinyl around panel gaps, to the reverse of the panel as much as possible. I like to aim for a minimum of 10mm on returns, which stops possible lifting due to air pressure/water/dirt etc. Any further questions, please feel free to ask

[creative]

Originally Posted by distortion

I've done hundreds of these (sign-writer)... The key is to find a shop that uses only the highest quality vinyls - top of the range is the ONLY way to go here, as those who use cheaper vinyls will end up causing huge issues. I use 3M controltac (ask for it by name as its the industry standard) or Hexis car wrap vinyls. Avery also has a 'paint replacement' grade vinyl out now, but some states may not have it yet. If you're after a top notch job in matte, try hexis as their rolls come in 1500mm wide so there should not be any joins on most vehicles. Also, watch the applicator do the install if possible. Only very good applicators can install without needing to cut on the vehicle, and the good ones who do, will not even leave any marks or cut lines on the car. Also, the accesseries you may have on your car - rear window wipers or whatever else- take them off before hand! Makes the job neater. Wash your car thoroughly before getting the job done - but DO NOT wax your car as this will stop adhesion. If you are really worried about the horizontal surfaces on vehicles being out in the sun all the time, and you're going with a high gloss finish, there are conformable over laminates available with UV resistant properties that increase the lifespan of the vinyl underneath. That said, a good vinyl should last for a year or two in constant sun without too much fade. If it does, it can be replaced quickly. Another thing to check up on with your install once complete, is that the applicator returns the vinyl around panel gaps, to the reverse of the panel as much as possible. I like to aim for a minimum of 10mm on returns, which stops possible lifting due to air pressure/water/dirt etc. Any further questions, please feel free to ask

Where are you and how much for a ute?

[distortion]

Originally Posted by creative

Where are you and how much for a ute?

ha ha ha well I'm in Melbourne (SE suburbs) but I didnt mean to post on here as an advert by any means!

Ute's are usually cheaper than sedans as there is less detail, and surface area to wrap, and the roof is a hell of a lot easier to get to! To give you some idea of just the COST for the vinyl itself, standard glossy 3m controltac vinyls, (not metallic, matte or anything else special) start at around $30 per meter (1m x 1.2m) Specialist vinyls such as matte, satin, carbin fibre, chameleon, heat changing colours, glow in the dark, etc etc usually start at $80 per meter for a good grade.

Another thing to note with wraps, is once they are at the end of their lifespan (fading usually) the paint underneath should be at the same condition it was before the wrap - which is an attractive option if you are changing vehicles often (selling a used vehicle with PERFECT paintwork is easier!)

Have fun!

[Scott]

Originally Posted by distortion

To give you some idea of just the COST for the vinyl itself, standard glossy 3m controltac vinyls, (not metallic, matte or anything else special) start at around $30 per meter (1m x 1.2m) Specialist vinyls such as matte, satin, carbin fibre, chameleon, heat changing colours, glow in the dark, etc etc usually start at $80 per meter for a good grade.

Any idea on labour costs? Say for a tray Ute, bonnet, guards, doors, roof/cab - - - - bumper?????

[distortion]

Originally Posted by Scott

Any idea on labour costs? Say for a tray Ute, bonnet, guards, doors, roof/cab - - - - bumper?????

Every installer charges different rates, and different cars have different difficulties (creases, body shapes etc). I wouldn't want to give an estimate on pricing sorry!

Shop around, ask for vinyls by brand name, and DO NOT accept any bubbles under vinyl wraps - it is not acceptable no matter what BS you'll get fed by some people... The bigger shops will generally be cheaper, but they will probably use cheaper labour as well. I'd find a small-medium sign writer, which has been around for a while which is family owned...

[SSD-85]

I entered this thread thinking it was for putting a vinyl roof on a car

But it does raise an interesting question, has anyone been bold enough to put a vinyl roof on a modern car?

[madwag]

Originally Posted by Scotty85

I entered this thread thinking it was for putting a vinyl roof on a car

But it does raise an interesting question, has anyone been bold enough to put a vinyl roof on a modern car?

me too hahaha. Got me thinking and a little confused too.

[aussie muscle]

Originally Posted by Scotty85

I entered this thread thinking it was for putting a vinyl roof on a car

me too, lol

[Sam_Boss260]

Our van at work is black with the usual sign writing. After 6 months being here, I found out that the van is actually white, and vinyl wrapped in black. The whole van inclusing roof is wrapped in black.

And I bumped into the guy who did it, and he is a sign writer. Reckons it was a fairly big job to get right too.

[distortion]

Originally Posted by Sam_Boss260

Our van at work is black with the usual sign writing. After 6 months being here, I found out that the van is actually white, and vinyl wrapped in black. The whole van inclusing roof is wrapped in black.

And I bumped into the guy who did it, and he is a sign writer. Reckons it was a fairly big job to get right too.

Yeah vans can be difficult - especially some older hi-aces etc as the deeper the grooves and lines in the car (usually around windows) the harder it is to get the vinyl to work in all directions! I've done a couple of buses and they were fun!

Changing white cars to black is not easy simply because ANY slight gap will show white (panel joins etc) and its super noticeable.

VW and Mercedes vans are the easiest to do - nice flat big areas, and they do rear windows without the rubber surrounds - very nice to work on.

[Sam_Boss260]

Yeah, ours is a Merc Van. The boss insistsed on white, as it will have better resale value than a black one down the track, plus he probably got a good deal on a white one.

[Road Games]

Priced up mine back when i got the FG stripes fitted ..

To wrap my whole car in satin (flat) black was $3000...

I bought number plates instead

[Franco Cozzo]

The guys who do our ambulances for us at work, their stuff sticks like poo to a blanket, I know because I have to decomission the totalled ones, such a pain in the *** to come off when its been baked on through the sun over a few years.

[distortion]

Originally Posted by Big Damo

The guys who do our ambulances for us at work, their stuff sticks like poo to a blanket, I know because I have to decomission the totalled ones, such a pain in the *** to come off when its been baked on through the sun over a few years.

The cheaper the vinyl, the harder it is to get off later on! Im sure you know these following tips, but hey, hopefully it'll help someone else!

Leave the vehicle in the sun to soften the glue and heat up the panels
Use a heat gun to further soften up the areas you're working on
Spray the whole area in water as you're working as it'll stop the glue from resetting and making life harder
Only use solvents once the vinyl is off, solvents are for glue only.

Some sign supply shops sell motorised vinyl erasers - these things are not the cheapest in the world but will allow one person to remove a terribly baked on wrap in a few hours max - without the loss of fingerprints!

[Franco Cozzo]

Originally Posted by distortion

The cheaper the vinyl, the harder it is to get off later on! Im sure you know these following tips, but hey, hopefully it'll help someone else!

Leave the vehicle in the sun to soften the glue and heat up the panels
Use a heat gun to further soften up the areas you're working on
Spray the whole area in water as you're working as it'll stop the glue from resetting and making life harder
Only use solvents once the vinyl is off, solvents are for glue only.

Some sign supply shops sell motorised vinyl erasers - these things are not the cheapest in the world but will allow one person to remove a terribly baked on wrap in a few hours max - without the loss of fingerprints!

Will keep that in mind, we use the heat gun but no water, will use water again.

[partsguy]

We had our Transits vinyl wrapped by these guys, cost about $6K each but well worth the spend. They look sensational.

http://www.fleetingimage.com.au

Our van's are in their gallery, look for Coffey Ford

[deadlywill]

does look good and heaps of cars around here with it on (Mackay)

[1TUFFUTE]

thankyou very much for the info guys...i got more info here then hours of searching the other night...guess im of to the local signwritter
thanks again

[distortion]

Hi Neale - very nice jobs there - love the chrome merc! I'm not a fan of actually installing the chrome as it blemishes so easily! (plus its blinding out in the sun lol)