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18-06-2012, 03:39 PM | #1 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gold Coast
Posts: 537
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Hey guys
Having an issue with my AUII Futura. It's missing quite badly on idle, however as the engine goes under load, the miss almost entirely disappears. I have replaced the spark plugs, leads AND coilpack but its still there. What next? Thanks, Ben |
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18-06-2012, 03:50 PM | #2 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 108
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This might be way out of the ballpark but what about coolant temp sensor? if its incorrect and reading way to low it might be dumping to much fuel in? as its reving up its clearing itself
maybe put your dash into diagnostic mode, i think itll show then what its reading.. not 100% sure but that sensor is in back of the head... but check that.. Hope it helps |
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18-06-2012, 06:24 PM | #3 | ||
Falcon Unbelievable!
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Uncle Henry's Garage
Posts: 382
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Maybe try cleaning the throttle body, has the battery been disconnected? that can affect the base idle and take a bit for it to relearn.
Could also be ecu learning new leads and coil pack perhaps? Mine seem to take a while to come good. |
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18-06-2012, 07:22 PM | #4 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gold Coast
Posts: 537
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Its been missing for a while now (2 months or something like that). I did plugs and leads about a month ago, and its just been getting worse and worse.
As of about 2 days ago, idle seems to be completely spastic. When I put the car in neutral at a set of lights, it will sometimes go up to 1600 RPM, before slowly settling down to 1000ish, not ~600-800 like it used to. I'm thinking this may be unrelated and the throttle cable may need adjusting, im not sure though. :( |
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18-06-2012, 07:44 PM | #5 | ||
Donating Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,142
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Could still almost be anything. Diagnose in order of expense
Try the Oxygen sensor. |
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18-06-2012, 07:56 PM | #6 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 108
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Put it in diagnostic mode first in the dash.. see if anything weird shows up first.. its free and might help diagnose..
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18-06-2012, 08:02 PM | #7 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gold Coast
Posts: 537
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Aight, I'll check that out tomorrow. Is there a tutorial on here on how to do it?
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18-06-2012, 08:28 PM | #8 | ||
XR6T 400kw(well one day!)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Toodyay W.A.
Posts: 1,008
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The diagnostic mode can be entered by using the following method
1) With the ignition key in the off position, turn the Ignition Key to the On Position. 2) Using the Odometer Button, Press the Odometer Button Down, then release 5 Times within 10 Seconds (Note : You must be very accurate with the timing. Depress the Button for 1 second, then release for 1 second. Do this 5 Times in 10 seconds) 3) Release the Odometer Button for 5 seconds. 4) Depress the Odometer Button for 7 Seconds. 5) Release the Odometer Button for 5 Seconds. 6) Depress the Odometer Button for 7 Seconds. To change between views from each one press the odo reset button. 1) 73 (Petrol in L - no level buffering) / 175 (Petrol Sender Resistance - Unbuffered) 2) 510 (Unknown) / 94 (Coolant Temp - Deg C) 3) 0 (engine RPM) / 0 (Vehicle Speed km/h) car was turned off 4) 0 (Oil Pressure) / 12.6 (Battery Voltage) 5) 0 (Inst. Fuel Consumption L/100km) / 3.0 Inst. Fuel Consumption (x 0.1 Litres) 6) 678148 (Fuel used since Trip Avg L/100km Reset - x 0.1L = 67814.8 / 356.3 (KMs travelled since Trip Avg L/100km Reset 7) 64L (Buffered Fuel Tank Level - Value used for Guage / 8.0 Buffered Fuel Tank Level Sender Resistance 8) - / 7 (Gear Position) 7=P 9) 0000 (Unknown) / 1001 (Unknown 0 apparently changes on AC Clutch Engage) 10) 0000 (Unknown) / 1111 (Unknown) 11) 0100 (Unknown) / 0000 (Unknown) 12) 0 (Unknown) / - 13) 0 (Unknown) / - 14) 0100 (Unknown) / 0 15) 1 (Unknown) / 0 16) 99 / 2010 17) 0 (Unknown) / 0 18) - / 0 19) ---d / ----
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If it Vibrates, rattles, squeaks or knocks - then it must be a Territory |
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18-06-2012, 08:26 PM | #9 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gold Coast
Posts: 537
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Also, because I can't edit my earlier posts:
I also heard a reasonably loud hissing sound from the intake tonight when I got home from around the TB / the 180 degree bend in the pipe. Is this normal? |
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19-06-2012, 04:57 PM | #10 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
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Quote:
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19-06-2012, 02:03 PM | #11 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gold Coast
Posts: 537
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Right, I'm currently doing the dash diagnostic.
On screen 2 (coolant temperature) I have it saying 91ish, so I assume this is fine? On screen 4, I assume it shows both oil pressure and battery voltage? Because if so, I have 15 down the bottom left and 0 up on the top right. Does this mean my alternator could be gone? |
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19-06-2012, 02:17 PM | #12 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 108
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so your car is fully warm for that to be showing 91 deg?
and does the same problem happen when its cold and also when its hot? nfi on what screen 4 means, id grab a set of multimeters and read ur alternator properly... |
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19-06-2012, 02:50 PM | #13 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gold Coast
Posts: 537
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Quote:
I've checked battery voltages and they seemed fine too. |
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19-06-2012, 02:33 PM | #14 | ||
Flairs - Truckers Delight
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Brisbane Northside Likes: Opposite Lock
Posts: 5,731
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Ben, my AUII sits on 92deg on screen 2 when its up to operating temperature
and on screen 4 it hops between 13.9 and 14.4 all the time, depending on what i'm doing
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Current: Silhouette Black 2007 SY Ford Territory TX RWD 7-seater "Black Banger"
2006-2016: Regency Red 2000 AUII Ford Falcon Forte Automatic Sedan Tickford LPG "Millennium Falcon" |
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19-06-2012, 02:51 PM | #15 | ||
Cruising...
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Perth
Posts: 3,819
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They shouldnt go over 92 under normal conditions. That small number on screen 4 is the voltage, 15 sounds a bit much. Perhaps the alternator is messing with the ECU when idling due to spiking. Best to check the volts using a multimeter though.
Apart from that, perhaps you may have a vacumm leak somewhere making it misbehave at idle or maybe your ISC may need a clean since you mentioned the idle went postal when you hit neutral.
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FBT '98 BA XT '04 F100 4x4 '82 Subaru Outback '02 |
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19-06-2012, 05:24 PM | #16 | ||
Define definitive
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: hobart, tas
Posts: 587
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Could even be the intake manifold gasket.
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BF F6 TYPHOON in NEO #718 ~ 356rwkw : BF XR6 TURBO in SILHOUETTE |
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19-06-2012, 05:53 PM | #17 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gold Coast
Posts: 537
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Quote:
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20-06-2012, 09:58 PM | #18 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 51
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+1 inlet gasket,
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22-06-2012, 01:00 PM | #19 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gold Coast
Posts: 537
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So I'm still having problems.
The car's idle is now all over the place in neutral, but okay in drive. It was idling at 2000 rpm before... I disconnected the Idle control valve and idle sorted itself out (Back the the miss, but at least it's at a normal RPM). I also disconnected the O2 sensor, and the car felt exactly the same (though I did not drive it, the car was parked). Additionally, with the TPS / the cable going to the TB disconnected the car idled like normal, just with the miss. So I'm just not sure what can be the problem / problems. |
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05-08-2012, 07:38 PM | #20 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gold Coast
Posts: 537
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Bump of my old thread. Finally got around to fixing the problem, the old intake manifold gasket was in quite bad condition. Put a new one on (That was very... fun), and shes back to running well again
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05-08-2012, 07:44 PM | #21 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Victoria
Posts: 907
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Quote:
All good and using 8-8.5l/100km now.
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Fords the family have owned: Model T, Model A, Fordson truck, 105E Anglias, MkI Escorts, MkI Cortinas, MkII Cortina, Zephyr Six, ZC Fairlane, AUII Ute manual, BA XT sedan, Territory TS SZ RWD. |
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