Welcome to the Australian Ford Forums forum.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and inserts advertising. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features without post based advertising banners. Registration is simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.

Please Note: All new registrations go through a manual approval queue to keep spammers out. This is checked twice each day so there will be a delay before your registration is activated.

Go Back   Australian Ford Forums > Club and Speciality Forums > Forum Community Car Clubs > AU Falcon.com.au

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 14-07-2005, 09:09 PM   #1
Axle-F
AU - YEA YOU!
 
Axle-F's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 270
Exclamation Servicing your AU - what & when?

Going off suggestions from another thread here's a tidy place for people so inclined to post what they service on their AU and after how many k's (regardless of DIY or mechanic servicing).

To keep things neat I've nicked the format from the AU times thread which people can cut & paste then add to. Also if its a specialty item (e.g. LPG cut-off solenoids) make sure to note that next to the item. Here's the pathetic start I've made, please add!!

Every 5,000kms
- Oil Change

Every 10,000kms
- Oil Filter

Every 20,000kms

Every 25,000kms
- Transmission Servicing

Every 50,000kms

Every 75,000kms

Every 100,000kms
- Timing belt

Every 150,000kms


If we can build this up it'll form a really good knowledge base of how to keep our beasts in top form!

__________________
AU II XR6 VCT - JMM DEV3+
Axle-F is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 15-07-2005, 12:01 PM   #2
b2tf
not here much anymore
 
b2tf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Sthn NSW
Posts: 22,918
Default

If it were me Id be replacing the oil filter with the oil too.
__________________
2024 F150 XLT
b2tf is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 15-07-2005, 12:03 PM   #3
Casper
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Contributing Member
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 12,083
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by back2thefutura
If it were me Id be replacing the oil filter with the oil too.
yup, oil and filter at the same time.
I also change the coolent at least once a year, regardless of km's.
__________________
Older, wiser, poorer.


Now in Euro-Trash. VW Coupe V6 4motion.
Casper is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 15-07-2005, 12:15 PM   #4
b2tf
not here much anymore
 
b2tf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Sthn NSW
Posts: 22,918
Default

Every 5,000kms
- Oil Change
- Oil Filter
- Battery Fluid Levels (unless its one that doesnt require checking)

Every 10,000kms
- Check Brakes and Fluid
-

Every 20,000kms
- Check Coolant Levels
- Replace brake fluid if you didnt before

Every 25,000kms
- Transmission Servicing

Every 50,000kms
- Plugs and Leads, check and replace if neccesary

Every 75,000kms

Every 100,000kms
- Timing belt
- Replace Coolant, full system flush

Every 150,000kms


Your warranty and service handbook should show you what Ford does at each service. This is a pretty good guide.
__________________
2024 F150 XLT
b2tf is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 15-07-2005, 03:58 PM   #5
Axle-F
AU - YEA YOU!
 
Axle-F's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 270
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by back2thefutura
Your warranty and service handbook should show you what Ford does at each service. This is a pretty good guide.
'cept if you dont have one ;)
__________________
AU II XR6 VCT - JMM DEV3+
Axle-F is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 15-07-2005, 04:03 PM   #6
b2tf
not here much anymore
 
b2tf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Sthn NSW
Posts: 22,918
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Axle-F
'cept if you dont have one ;)
ARGH! : forgot ALL about it! lol sorry!

Ill go down to Ford right now!
__________________
2024 F150 XLT
b2tf is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 15-07-2005, 05:03 PM   #7
legend223
Regular Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 30
Default

my car needs a good serivce but what u all mean with timing belts in my ford maunal at 100,000 Kms it does not say anything to replace the belt i thought you replace them it your have overhead cams ford dont
legend223 is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 15-07-2005, 08:17 PM   #8
b2tf
not here much anymore
 
b2tf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Sthn NSW
Posts: 22,918
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by legend223
my car needs a good serivce but what u all mean with timing belts in my ford maunal at 100,000 Kms it does not say anything to replace the belt i thought you replace them it your have overhead cams ford dont
Yeah I dont neccesary think it needs replacing at that particular time either, it should be good enough to last longer than that. Never hurts to check them though, and if its looking a bit worse for wear, whack a new one on.
__________________
2024 F150 XLT
b2tf is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 12-10-2005, 03:58 AM   #9
Racecraft
they call me Tibbo
 
Racecraft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,163
Default

Every 5,000kms
- Oil Change
- Oil Filter
- Battery Fluid Levels (unless its one that doesnt require checking)
- Air Filter (or a re oil of aftermarket jobbies)

Every 10,000kms
- Check Brakes and Fluid

Every 20,000kms
- Check Coolant Levels
- Replace brake fluid if you didnt before
- Front Pads - depending greatly on pad composition and driving style

Every 25,000kms
- Transmission Servicing
- Rear Pads - depending greatly on pad composition and driving style

Every 50,000kms
- Plugs and Leads, check and replace if neccesary
- Diff oil
- Fuel Filter
- Machine the rotors per 2 sets of pads (thats when I do a fluid change)
- Fan belt

Every 75,000kms

Every 100,000kms
- Timing belt *** wtf!
- Replace Coolant, full system flush
- Front wheel bearings
- Front Shockies/ inspect ball joints for movement
- Idler Pulleys
- Rear sway bar bushes
- Check harmonic balancer for movement
- Full trans flush (as opposed to a filter,pan gasket and oil change @ every 25k)

Every 150,000kms
- Rear wheel bearings

Some of that is more preventative measures but should be considered if your maintainence is DIY
__________________

Racecraft is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 02-08-2005, 12:08 PM   #10
Marlin_Girl
I wish I was a Pursuit...
 
Marlin_Girl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Albany WA
Posts: 402
Default

Oooh this thread is good this helps me;)
__________________
:newangel:cassie
2001 AUII XLS Marlin Ute
Silhouette, 5 spd MANUAL, Sports Bar, Tinted, 2.5” Exhaust, Pacemaker Extractors

pics of my ute HERE
Marlin_Girl is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 12-10-2005, 12:20 AM   #11
wynode
Starter Motor
 
wynode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Sydney
Posts: 22
Default

What is involved with:
Quote:
- Transmission Servicing
?

Also, i'm not familiar with Ford's but when changing the sump plug 'gasket' is it just like a crush washer or something else? I take it this can be just purchased from Ford spare parts?

Thanks!
wynode is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 12-10-2005, 04:18 AM   #12
Racecraft
they call me Tibbo
 
Racecraft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,163
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wynode
What is involved with: Transmission Servicing
?
You buy a service kit
It contains:-
A transmission pan gasket
A filter
A filter O ring

and a pump, a cheap hand held thing will suffice. You have to pump the oil back into the trans, the dipstick filler tube got the **** by the AU :(

4 ltires of ATF.

Before you start make sure you can remove the 16mm filler bolt on the drivers side half way along and up. No point dropping the oil if you can't fill it back up.

You undo the 10mm bolts on the trans pan, removing the rear bolts completely before working your way along opposite sides until you get to the front.. This allows the fluid to tip out of the rear of the pan not just pouring out everywhere by undoing the bolts out of order.

Take note where the spring clip is located and how it is held on.. Remove the spring clip that holds the filter on
**With pliers remove the filter o ring if didn't come out with your old filter.

Fit the new o ring to your new filter and put that back in

Re-attach the spring clip, you might need pliers to get enough leverage to hook the clip back into place

CLean out your trans pan with some carby cleaner/degreaser, wipe the magnets clean off any swarf and crud

Fit your new pan gasket and bolt it all back up

Now just refill the trans, with your hand pump.. Pump ATF into the fill point on the side of the trans until it just starts to trickle out. Bearing in mind this should be done when the car is level, so if you are using ramps or jacks and stands you need to level the car to check the level correctly

Done
__________________

Racecraft is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 24-02-2006, 04:21 PM   #13
captain
Starter Motor
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 22
Default transmission filter?

This system of reply is new to me, my question is does the transmission have a filter? I always thought the internals are oil lubricated but no oil filtering system.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Racecraft
You buy a service kit
It contains:-
A transmission pan gasket
A filter
A filter O ring

and a pump, a cheap hand held thing will suffice. You have to pump the oil back into the trans, the dipstick filler tube got the ИИИИ by the AU :(

4 ltires of ATF.

Before you start make sure you can remove the 16mm filler bolt on the drivers side half way along and up. No point dropping the oil if you can't fill it back up.

You undo the 10mm bolts on the trans pan, removing the rear bolts completely before working your way along opposite sides until you get to the front.. This allows the fluid to tip out of the rear of the pan not just pouring out everywhere by undoing the bolts out of order.

Take note where the spring clip is located and how it is held on.. Remove the spring clip that holds the filter on
**With pliers remove the filter o ring if didn't come out with your old filter.

Fit the new o ring to your new filter and put that back in

Re-attach the spring clip, you might need pliers to get enough leverage to hook the clip back into place

CLean out your trans pan with some carby cleaner/degreaser, wipe the magnets clean off any swarf and crud

Fit your new pan gasket and bolt it all back up

Now just refill the trans, with your hand pump.. Pump ATF into the fill point on the side of the trans until it just starts to trickle out. Bearing in mind this should be done when the car is level, so if you are using ramps or jacks and stands you need to level the car to check the level correctly

Done
_2:
captain is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 12-10-2005, 01:51 AM   #14
Steve_T
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 339
Default

If this is specific to AU's, then I should point out they don't have timing belts - they have chains - so no need for 100k replacement.

On the V8s the sump plug has a nylon washer on it - unsure on the I6s but assume it's the same. I don't replace mine, I just put loctite on the thread each time I re-fit the sump plug and have never had any leaks or problems.

Steve.
Steve_T is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 12-10-2005, 02:14 AM   #15
BlackLS
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_T
If this is specific to AU's, then I should point out they don't have timing belts - they have chains - so no need for 100k replacement.

On the V8s the sump plug has a nylon washer on it - unsure on the I6s but assume it's the same. I don't replace mine, I just put loctite on the thread each time I re-fit the sump plug and have never had any leaks or problems.

Steve.
Yeah the I6 don't have a washer I don't think. I don't have a problem with leaks, but last time I covered the thread and uunder the head of the plug with liquid gasket, just incase
  Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 12-10-2005, 04:03 AM   #16
Racecraft
they call me Tibbo
 
Racecraft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,163
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_T
If this is specific to AU's, then I should point out they don't have timing belts - they have chains - so no need for 100k replacement.

On the V8s the sump plug has a nylon washer on it - unsure on the I6s but assume it's the same. I don't replace mine, I just put loctite on the thread each time I re-fit the sump plug and have never had any leaks or problems.

Steve.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArgonEF
Yeah the I6 don't have a washer I don't think. I don't have a problem with leaks, but last time I covered the thread and uunder the head of the plug with liquid gasket, just incase
THe AU's just use a bolt.. just DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN IT, a steel bolt into alloy sump means the sump thread is not going to like it..
__________________

Racecraft is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 12-10-2005, 11:22 AM   #17
wynode
Starter Motor
 
wynode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Sydney
Posts: 22
Default

Awesome Racecraft thanks for that!
wynode is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 12-10-2005, 04:14 PM   #18
AU:PROJECT:UTE
Drought Breaker
 
AU:PROJECT:UTE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Gunnedah, NSW
Posts: 199
Default

By timing belts I have to assume we are all talking serpentine drive belts? These can be changed whenever you can see fine perishing cracks running across the little ribs.
Another item for checking every 150k is your extension housing oil seal. In my dusty environments I have done mine twice in 90k.
All AU 6 cylinders have sump plug part no: F5RZ-6730-B, I retail the plug for $9.65.
The plug has a rubber lip fused to the rim on the bolt head, what you can do is buy a soft copper washer from your local autostore, for a tenth the price. The only thing that ruins the 6cyl sump plugs is the rubber perishing, stopping it from sealing.
__________________
2002 AUIII XL W/- Custom Tray
ALL COUNTRY: SW Platt Mccann 5 Poster, GME 4706 7' Whippys, Uniden UH015SX UHF AND Scanner combo, Narva Taurus Bull lights, Hawk Grille, Series II Pursuit Side Skirts, Stickers on the back window and more eartags than a mob of cranky angus

ALL GO: XR6 VCT donk and ECU NO MORE!!
Now even MORE fun with 200kw XR8 and 5 speed, Tickford Cluster, 3.45 LSD, full custom twin system w/- 3" chrome angle cut tips :
AU:PROJECT:UTE is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 13-10-2005, 12:21 AM   #19
Steve_T
Regular Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 339
Default

Only thing I would question on the latest service list above would be the air filter at 5000km - fine to check it then, and if it's a paper one then replace if necessary (should last longer than that though) but you shouldn't be re-oiling a re-usable filter that frequently (unless you race your car across the desert each week ) If you clean and re-oil a filter that often, not only will you wear it out in no time, but you will virtually never be getting as good a filtration as you should - those sorta filters almost rely on some dust being suspended in them to augment the oil coating as a medium to trap further dirt particles. When the filter starts to look brown on the inlet side or when the dirt builds up almost as thick as the mesh (ie. starts to fill the holes in the mesh) then you should wash and clean. I've had my K&N in for about 15,000km and drive in pretty dusty conditions including dirt road sometimes and have never needed to clean it yet - you won't get any better efficency by cleaning more often than needed. Technically the ideal time to clean is when the restriction through the filter reaches 1inHg at reasonably high revs.

BTW, I am making two assumtions here - A) You are talking about K&N style filters like most of us have and B) that by re-oiling you mean cleaning and re-oiling. The only other time you would apply oil in between cleaning is if you hold the filter up to the light and see any white spots on the surface with no oil on 'em.
Steve_T is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 13-10-2005, 04:35 AM   #20
Racecraft
they call me Tibbo
 
Racecraft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,163
Default

fair enough Steve, sounds like good advice.. I am a paper filter man and have no experience with the re-usable filters
__________________

Racecraft is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 14-10-2005, 10:18 PM   #21
Mechan1k
Moderator
Donating Member1
 
Mechan1k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Kenthurst
Posts: 40,403
Valued Contributor: For members whose non technical contributions are worthy of recognition. - Issue reason: Brings a wealth of knowledge to the forums and is frequently giving helpful advice. Technical Contributor: For members who share their technical expertise. - Issue reason: Always willing to help out with technical information. 
Default

Also you need the 95LE fluid for the auto ... not the Dex III (cos this kills the Ford 4-speed autos).

Nice write-up for the auto service Tibbo ... recently did one ... and it used more than 4L of fluid.

Also to add to it ... after filling ... take the car for a drive ... and if the shifting is sloppy and not shifting ... add more fluid till it flows out the bolt hole ... after the initial use it seeps through the parts and the level drops.

It's a Pain in the Butt ... but it's a necessary job to prolong the life of your auto.
Mechan1k is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 28-10-2005, 01:58 PM   #22
wynode
Starter Motor
 
wynode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Sydney
Posts: 22
Default

I just had a look at the manaul and for normal driving it actually says every 50K for the transmission fluid change (Auto) ?
wynode is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 28-10-2005, 02:07 PM   #23
Mechan1k
Moderator
Donating Member1
 
Mechan1k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Kenthurst
Posts: 40,403
Valued Contributor: For members whose non technical contributions are worthy of recognition. - Issue reason: Brings a wealth of knowledge to the forums and is frequently giving helpful advice. Technical Contributor: For members who share their technical expertise. - Issue reason: Always willing to help out with technical information. 
Default

Depends what you class normal driving I guess ... for prolonged life ... I'd do it a little more regularly than 50,000km.

It's like now they say 15,000km between oil changes ... maybe it's just me ... but I don't like to leave it that long between oil changes ... it may be the view of others ... but i have found that replacing oil a little more regularly than that ... the engine stays in better condition for a longer period of time.
Mechan1k is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 29-10-2005, 12:50 AM   #24
Sleeperau
Highway Taxi
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 593
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechan1k
Depends what you class normal driving I guess ... for prolonged life ... I'd do it a little more regularly than 50,000km.

It's like now they say 15,000km between oil changes ... maybe it's just me ... but I don't like to leave it that long between oil changes ... it may be the view of others ... but i have found that replacing oil a little more regularly than that ... the engine stays in better condition for a longer period of time.
Good advice! Preventative maintenace is the key. At 50k, in the 16 auto (with a shallow oil pan) the oil would be RS completely. City driving, it is shot a 20k.Engine Oil changes at 15k, fine if you want to change cars every few years & don;t care. Ford changed the anti from the E series to the A series due to a capacity change of .5 of a litre, so it went from 10k to 15k , hard to work out!. I would rather err on the side of being conservative to safeguard against any mechanical problems & ensure reliability
__________________
Close only counts in Horse Shoes & Hand Grenades. :evil_laug
Sleeperau is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 29-10-2005, 12:42 AM   #25
wynode
Starter Motor
 
wynode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Sydney
Posts: 22
Default

Mechan1k, valid point.

I've noticed a bit of a leak around the tranny pan near the rubber seal so I might do the service now and get it all done once and for all. Hopefully the service kit isn't too expensive.
wynode is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 29-10-2005, 01:11 AM   #26
wynode
Starter Motor
 
wynode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Sydney
Posts: 22
Default

Roughly how much is the service kit for the the auto transmission + fluid?
wynode is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 31-10-2005, 11:44 AM   #27
Mechan1k
Moderator
Donating Member1
 
Mechan1k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Kenthurst
Posts: 40,403
Valued Contributor: For members whose non technical contributions are worthy of recognition. - Issue reason: Brings a wealth of knowledge to the forums and is frequently giving helpful advice. Technical Contributor: For members who share their technical expertise. - Issue reason: Always willing to help out with technical information. 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wynode
Roughly how much is the service kit for the the auto transmission + fluid?

can't remember now ... I got mine done at Crescent Motorsport in Liverpool ... I get a discount there being on www.fordmods.com ... Ford specilist mechanic and LPG mechanic/fitter, etc.

Joe and the guys there do top work ... plus I get to use the workshop as well if i ask nicely ... hee hee
Mechan1k is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 03-02-2006, 04:59 PM   #28
Stav
Smile
 
Stav's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Merrylands Sydney
Posts: 8,541
Valued Contributor: For members whose non technical contributions are worthy of recognition. - Issue reason: Always ready to help others over the years on AFF with advice and tips along the way 
Default

I remember some time ago there was a full flush of the auto transmission article .It involved undoing some of the tranny lines.Does anyone know the procedure or how much fluid should be purchased for the job?
__________________
Stingray Car Security ph 0414445444

Single din radio fascias for fg to fgx fords Australia wide .

FG 1 2 and 3 gauge holder in stock now! https://stingraycar.com.au/shop/
Site Sponsor See Sponsor Stingray Car Security 😍👌✌

AU wagon 6 14.241@96.75 1/4 mile sold.Octane fg xr6 turbo!! 12.312 112.21 mph home tune f6 injectors gone ..now in nitro fgxr6t ready to go again
Stav is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 05-03-2006, 11:27 AM   #29
Marco
Starter Motor
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 2
Default belt or chain driven cam.

Greetings
Could one of you more experienced ford fans please tell me if my 2001 ford Au wagon as a belt or chain driven cam.
Thanks
Marco
Marco is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Old 05-03-2006, 11:34 AM   #30
Mechan1k
Moderator
Donating Member1
 
Mechan1k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Kenthurst
Posts: 40,403
Valued Contributor: For members whose non technical contributions are worthy of recognition. - Issue reason: Brings a wealth of knowledge to the forums and is frequently giving helpful advice. Technical Contributor: For members who share their technical expertise. - Issue reason: Always willing to help out with technical information. 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
Greetings
Could one of you more experienced ford fans please tell me if my 2001 ford Au wagon as a belt or chain driven cam.
Thanks
Marco
Cam is chain driven ... for as long as I can remember ... hee hee
Mechan1k is offline   Reply With Quote Multi-Quote with this Post
Reply


Forum Jump


All times are GMT +11. The time now is 01:48 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Other than what is legally copyrighted by the respective owners, this site is copyright www.fordforums.com.au
Positive SSL