How to get an AU hooning for the street!!

**Stav** · 18-01-2005, 12:24 PM

Just wanted to make this post for those who want the best bang for buck on a daily driven car that wont see the 1/4 mile. Well I must say that the exhaust is the best starting point. In my experience the change to a cat back and Jim Mock race series extractors are money well spent. The standard AU ford comes alive with this addition.The difference for me was amazing!!!
0-100 times will be dramatically improved.To compare ...I have raced 20 odd ss commodores on the street and none of them beat me from 0-100 .All of these were done in an area of 100 kmph speed limit so as to stay within the law and be safer.
The next thing that I can recommend is a shift kit for the auto transmission.This alone makes the gear changes quicker .

The next thing I would recommend is a chip.I believe that with a chip the power from 0-100 and a little more terminal power will make for very potent AU FORD.

My cam swap has so far taken away these so many great qualities that I had.but in defence of it I dont think it is dialled in perfectly yet.

**FTE217** · 18-01-2005, 01:31 PM

lol useless, do you stop on the M2 or 3 to get 0 to 100k comparos against SS's ?

You're right with exhaust,chip I had good gains from these 2 alone.
Include better air intake flow and the shift kit must be better but I am yet to do this.

dansedgli · 18-01-2005, 01:35 PM

How old are these SS's? Your car must be something special to beat Gen 3's to 100km/hr. I can barely do that.

If your only interested in 0-100 times then short diff gears would help a lot as well.

**Stav** · 18-01-2005, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dansedgli

How old are these SS's? Your car must be something special to beat Gen 3's to 100km/hr. I can barely do that.

If your only interested in 0-100 times then short diff gears would help a lot as well.

VY/z ss commodores and manual as well. I did not beat them but they could not pull away from me either. The new monaro is quicker though .But I am not sure if they have more power than an ss .Also a BMW with quoted 0-100 6.7 seconds. This was pre cam .Now it feels slower off the mark.Thats why I think that people have a good starting point with what theyve got especially with an auto.

Quote:

lol useless, do you stop on the M2 or 3 to get 0 to 100k comparos against SS's ?
.
You're right with exhaust,chip I had good gains from these 2 alone.
Include better air intake flow and the shift kit must be better but I am yet to do this.

heheh not all were to 100 kays but to 80 kays within limit. The surprise on their faces told of a story.The comments I kept getting were "I looked around and you were still there!!!"

Not trying to glorify the six,but it packed alot more throttle response than I have now with a cam.So why bother? But you can also look at it another way if I can get a chip now with my 141 rwkws the down low power should be restored provided that the tuner realises that 20 more rwkws does count alot more at 60 kmph than at 180 kmph and he fattens up the power as much as possible.

Got a bit off track there but in the end I started this to let people know that good gains are there for the 16 in a real street sense.

Mr Cube · 18-01-2005, 01:45 PM

Can you explain the shift kit, bit more for me... I never heard of it...

JC · 18-01-2005, 04:09 PM

Cubey - the shift kits is a little electronic box the goes between the ECU and the auto transmission (basically it plugs into the ECU, if you can call soldering plugging something in).

There are 3 versions:
1. Non switchable (firm shift) - once connected, the shift kit is always on.
2. Switchable (firm shift) - you can choose to have it on or off
3. 2 way Switchable (firm or hard shift) - you can choose to have it on firm shift, on hard shift, or off.

Basically, the electronic box contains a resistor or two and, when turned on - assuming you get the switchable version - effectively tricks the ECU into thinking that the transmission is not getting enough line pressure for the gear change. It forces a harder (and therefore shorter) shift time. With a firm shift, the rear wheels chirp a little when changing gears, with hard shift, you get quite a bit of wheel chirp (almost wheelspin). The gears also slam in a lot harder and louder, though apparently this does not harm the gearbox as the friction surfaces are actually meeting for less time. Not sure about the diff though. lol

With the shift kit on in my car, it makes around 0.1 difference to 0-100 times. I reckon if you could get it to shift harder without getting the wheels to chirp, it would make more difference as the chirp must be costing time.

Best $100 I ever spent (I got the 2 way switchable kit)! And I don't use it in the wet - it's too dangerous!

Mr Cube · 19-01-2005, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCXR8

Cubey - the shift kits is a little electronic box the goes between the ECU and the auto transmission (basically it plugs into the ECU, if you can call soldering plugging something in).

There are 3 versions:
1. Non switchable (firm shift) - once connected, the shift kit is always on.
2. Switchable (firm shift) - you can choose to have it on or off
3. 2 way Switchable (firm or hard shift) - you can choose to have it on firm shift, on hard shift, or off.

Basically, the electronic box contains a resistor or two and, when turned on - assuming you get the switchable version - effectively tricks the ECU into thinking that the transmission is not getting enough line pressure for the gear change. It forces a harder (and therefore shorter) shift time. With a firm shift, the rear wheels chirp a little when changing gears, with hard shift, you get quite a bit of wheel chirp (almost wheelspin). The gears also slam in a lot harder and louder, though apparently this does not harm the gearbox as the friction surfaces are actually meeting for less time. Not sure about the diff though. lol

With the shift kit on in my car, it makes around 0.1 difference to 0-100 times. I reckon if you could get it to shift harder without getting the wheels to chirp, it would make more difference as the chirp must be costing time.

Best $100 I ever spent (I got the 2 way switchable kit)! And I don't use it in the wet - it's too dangerous!

thanx JC,, interesting, may look into that.. And you run that with the trans cooler aswell hey?

XR_Strider_GuY · 18-01-2005, 08:59 PM

My car is a manual, and the best V8 i've challenged is a 200kw XR8 auto. If it was a manual i would be history, let alone a GenIII.

By now VTII and VX GenIII's would have some bolt on mods that would make em go like a bat outta hell. Oh my car makes 142kw at the wheels with a custom intake and cat back exhaust.

**Stav** · 18-01-2005, 09:06 PM

Believe me now with the cam and the less down low I am being beaten by them. But with the stock cam and above set up I was never overtaken by a gen 3 from 0-100 even if I only had 120 odd rwkws stock

The fact that you have 142 and I now have 141.6 rwkws is irrelevant.The relevant power for 0-100 battles lie in the power in those areas. Think about it...why do turbo cars out accelerate non turbo? Because they produce bigger numbers down low .So even in normally aspirated form this for me is the golden trick. At a 110 kmph a turbo xr6 produces around around 130 rwkws at 90 it typically produces 110 rwkws.If you and I maximised our power compared to that and in theory bettered our power than an xr6t we would blow the doors off an xr6 turbo from 0-100

**Stav** · 18-01-2005, 09:24 PM

I am currently fiddling with the vernier and computer to get that awesome feeling again.

xr8ute · 23-01-2005, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by useless

I am currently fiddling with the vernier and computer to get that awesome feeling again.

stop mucking around with the cam and just get a higher stall converter fitted....that will get you into your new powerband quicksmart ;)

**Stav** · 25-01-2005, 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xr8ute

stop mucking around with the cam and just get a higher stall converter fitted....that will get you into your new powerband quicksmart ;)

I am thinking about 3.7 gears and a stallie.Good idea mate.

XR_Strider_GuY · 18-01-2005, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by useless

The fact that you have 142 and I now have 141.6 rwkws is irrelevant.The relevant power for 0-100 battles lie in the power in those areas. Think about it...why do turbo cars out accelerate non turbo? Because they produce bigger numbers down low .So even in normally aspirated form this for me is the golden trick. At a 110 kmph a turbo xr6 produces around around 130 rwkws at 90 it typically produces 110 rwkws.If you and I maximised our power compared to that and in theory bettered our power than an xr6t we would blow the doors off an xr6 turbo from 0-100

Probably a miss understanding, i was commenting on my experience with my car with the basic mods mentioned. I have no doubt that your car is tuned well and i must say 142kw for an auto is damn impressive, you've done well. With a cam your right that you can shift the power within the rev range. IT 4.0L I6 doesn't have an impressive off idle urge standard (gearing not helping things either).

I would say the factory Xr6 cam is tuned for mid-top range power hence my 0-100km/h times are not so impressive compared to rollon acceleration and 1/4 mile relatively speaking.

Casper · 18-01-2005, 09:38 PM

The cam is the key in the end. To make big HP there is a trade off....and thats usually the low rpm power. It can be done just right too (Re: Sox and his ute or the JMM EB) but often a trade off has to be made..

Unless you have a VCT :nutsycuck (you KNOW I had to say that)

**Stav** · 18-01-2005, 10:15 PM

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1796/article.html

I just saw this article on autospeed .It says vy ss 5.7 0-100 in 6.7 seconds, so I do believe my tips will upset many ss commodores by mums AU taxi!!!

19-01-2005, 06:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Casper

Unless you have a VCT :nutsycuck (you KNOW I had to say that)

whoa, didnt we see that coming a mile off!!

Kermit · 18-01-2005, 10:28 PM

JMM is all you need to know. They rock.

needturbo6 · 18-01-2005, 10:39 PM

u have tried advancing the cam i assume? have u advanced it as much as u can go, test drive, back it off, test drive etc. till u get the best results?

**Stav** · 18-01-2005, 11:22 PM

Nup! not yet but I will try it,or get someone who knows to try it.Thanks for tip

needturbo6 · 18-01-2005, 11:39 PM

advancing the cam pretty much moves the powerband lower in the rev range. so just say u had power 2000-6000 advancing the cam a bit might move the power band 1500-5500. thats basically the go.

Casper · 19-01-2005, 12:04 PM

Just have a look at www.shiftkits.com.au
They have a bit of info on them there.

The Mighty Red · 21-01-2005, 12:01 AM

[QUOTE=useless]I have raced 20 odd ss commodores on the street and none of them beat me from 0-100 .

Ok i'm gunna bite, Can you tell me the mods that you were/are running to keep up with vy/z SS commys. I have a very healthy xr6 that wont get near a vz SS auto or manual to 100kph. so you are obviously talkin more than extractors and CAI. I had a run with a VY SS of the lights about 1 month ago and it wasn't even close he left me straight from the start and just kept on pullin away. When i get chipped and a dev 3HL cam kit I might be able to stay with one MAYBE

**Stav** · 21-01-2005, 07:48 AM

[QUOTE=our_blue_xr6]

Quote:

Originally Posted by useless

I have raced 20 odd ss commodores on the street and none of them beat me from 0-100 .

Ok i'm gunna bite, Can you tell me the mods that you were/are running to keep up with vy/z SS commys. I have a very healthy xr6 that wont get near a vz SS auto or manual to 100kph. so you are obviously talkin more than extractors and CAI. I had a run with a VY SS of the lights about 1 month ago and it wasn't even close he left me straight from the start and just kept on pullin away. When i get chipped and a dev 3HL cam kit I might be able to stay with one MAYBE

Man i am not kidding .You are not biting at all ,you are welcome to ask. I was running:
1/ Jim Mock race series extractors
2/ lukely 2 1/2 inch cat back sports exhaust.
2/ 2 1/2 inch sports catalytic converter.
3/ K &N airfilter
4/ Iridium spark plugs
5/ Shift kit.
6/ and...my 100 kgs of tools.

One last thing that I must say is the inclusion of my cam has made it slower at this speed Above 100 kmph the ss would pull away and I could not keep up.

I have had 2 standard engines in the car and both responded the same way .So there is consistency.

The xr6 cam typically has more lift in the intake(6.7MM) than intake (6.4MM)than exhaust. tThe standard AU six cam has 6.4 mm intake lift and 6.7 mm on exhaust. I think this may have something to do with this.

One other thing too I was taken for a drive in a wrx sti last week and the performance form 0-80/90 was pretty close if not less than the AU six. After that speed I though I slid to the floor and said my prayers.

The Mighty Red · 21-01-2005, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by useless

Man i am not kidding .You are not biting at all ,you are welcome to ask. I was running:
1/ Jim Mock race series extractors
2/ lukely 2 1/2 inch cat back sports exhaust.
2/ 2 1/2 inch sports catalytic converter.
3/ K &N airfilter
4/ Iridium spark plugs
5/ Shift kit.
6/ and...my 100 kgs of tools.

One last thing that I must say is the inclusion of my cam has made it slower at this speed .
Above 100 kmph the ss would pull away and I could not keep up.

I have had 2 standard engines in the car and both responded the same way .So there is consistency.

The xr6 cam typically has more lift in the intake(6.7MM) than intake (6.4MM)than exhaust. tThe standard AU six cam has 6.4 mm intake lift and 6.7 mm on exhaust. I think this may have something to do with this.

One other thing too I was taken for a drive in a wrx sti last week and the performance form 0-80/90 was pretty close if not less than the AU six. After that speed I though I slid to the floor and said my prayers.

so your saying a stock AUI6 with your mods will be quicker than an AUXR6 with your mods to 100kph?. As for the WRX my sister owns 1 and i've driven it many times and i can assure you an I6 is not even on the same planet.
1998 Subaru Impreza WRX STI 0 - 100kph = 4.6secs , standing1/4mile 13.3 secs

I know you love your ford mate and so do I but cmon

**Stav** · 23-01-2005, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by our_blue_xr6

so your saying a stock AUI6 with your mods will be quicker than an AUXR6 with your mods to 100kph?. As for the WRX my sister owns 1 and i've driven it many times and i can assure you an I6 is not even on the same planet.
1998 Subaru Impreza WRX STI 0 - 100kph = 4.6secs , standing1/4mile 13.3 secs

I know you love your ford mate and so do I but cmon

Ok maybe the guy in the car did not want to fang it to 100 kmph but the ss story is correct. But in that car on that day 0-100 didnt feel so great.

b2tf · 23-01-2005, 02:53 PM

Don't wagons have 3.45 or 3.23 gears though? Im pretty sure only sedans got 3.08, Fairmonts got 3.45 yay! :newangel:

LG · 21-01-2005, 12:23 PM

So you've done no driveline work? What gears do you have? The stock 3.08? Thats a good effort.

**Stav** · 23-01-2005, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LG

So you've done no driveline work? What gears do you have? The stock 3.08? Thats a good effort.

Apart from the shift kit ...nothing done to drive line..

chief · 21-01-2005, 01:39 PM

Who installs shift kits. The ones on www.shiftkits.com.au are mail order only.

I still wonder how it reduces wear?

Racecraft · 21-01-2005, 01:46 PM

Best bang for buck is to throw out the 3.08 SS and whack in some 3.7's. Around $1100 drive in drive out... Even a stock i6 will be very lively at street speeds upto 100 km/h with the 3.7 rear end