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10-05-2006, 12:27 AM | #1 | ||
Bseries hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Epping
Posts: 1,490
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i just bought front wheel bearings today and just asking anyone if they have installed them on their cars and is it easy!
cheers
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HISTORY: AU series 2 S pack manual BA XR6 mock up [FLINBY] BF MKII XR8, 13.8 @ 107mph BA MKII F6 TYPHOON BA MKII XR6 TURBO BF MKII F6 TYPHOON R-spec, 13.2 @ 109 mph [LTHLF-6] PX Ranger WILDTRAK |
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10-05-2006, 12:48 AM | #2 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lurking in the Cave...
Posts: 70
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This is a fairly straightforward job on AU if you bought a hub with the bearings fitted.
Remove the wheel and then unbolt and lift the brake caliper out of the way. Remove the brake disc, just falls off. Carefully lever off the bearing cover, don't distort it, it may be tight. Just need a 35mm socket, a well braced car on stands, and a large amount of arm strength to undo the hub retaining nut. (The socet goes over the metal flaps around the nut). Clean the spindle and the ABS sensor. Install the new hub and torque the nut to 260nm Reinstall the hub cover, disc, caliper and wheel. Job done. If you just bought new bearings, they will need to be pressed into the existing hub. This is a job best done by someone with the correct equipment. Andrew. |
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10-05-2006, 08:42 PM | #3 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 20
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Also note!!!
If your bearing is completly and utterly guttered (like mine was) you will most likely have problems trying to get the race off the stub. I had to get a chizzle and hammer that sucker off, try not to damage the stub if you can, on mine it was siezed solid.. I ended up damaging the stub were the new bearing will seat itself. I had to fix this up with some emry strip and a small ball hammer. if I had an oxy I would of tryed heating the bearing 1st, but I had no oxy, and your not suppose to heat stubs either (a little wont hurt though, just dont get it glowing..... Another thing that happened with mine is, where the bearing had colapsed, it wore a little grove on the stub, so when I finily did get the bearing race to move it only moved as far as 5mm untill it hit the point where the stub was messed up underneith by the colapsed bearing, I had to hit it with the emery strip for a bit to flatten it so the bearing race would slip passed it... Once that was out I used the ball hammer to knock the little bit off rough edge where the chizzle damaged the stub, then hit it with the strip emery, all good then mate, slip the new bearing on, make sure it is seated, then torque it up... the big *** socket (35mm) is about all you will have trouble with, every thing else is straight forward sizes... Hope this has helped.. Casey |
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10-05-2006, 08:54 PM | #4 | ||
Smile
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Merrylands Sydney
Posts: 8,541
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I heard that you cannot do that to the au.I heard that the stubb has to be removed as well.
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10-05-2006, 09:53 PM | #5 | ||
Custom user title
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,892
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AU1-3 are all exactly the same as far as fitting the HUB to the stub axel, only differnce being on the AU2/3 u need a 15mm socket to remove the caliper, on the au 1 its a 13mm
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07-09-2010, 11:18 AM | #6 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 12
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Hi Andrew (Au Hog), I am about to replace one of my hubs as its noisy so thanks for the info, my only concern was the ( you wrote "The socet goes over the metal flaps around the nut") metal flaps which I thought had to be bent back to get at the nut but when I tried this I couldn't get full access to the nut. Can you tell me is this some sort of locking washer ie does it have a tab that locates into a key way on the shaft ? and can I use this "call it flap washer" again or should it be replaced with a new one each time.
Once again this is a great site it has helped me out on a number of difficult problems |
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07-09-2010, 11:19 AM | #7 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 12
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Hi Andrew (Au Hog), I am about to replace one of my hubs as its noisy so thanks for the info, my only concern was the ( you wrote "The socet goes over the metal flaps around the nut") metal flaps which I thought had to be bent back to get at the nut but when I tried this I couldn't get full access to the nut. Can you tell me is this some sort of locking washer ie does it have a tab that locates into a key way on the shaft ? and can I use this "call it flap washer" again or should it be replaced with a new one each time.
Once again this is a great site it has helped me out on a number of difficult problems Thanks Grant |
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07-09-2010, 11:32 AM | #8 | |||
Back to Le Frenchy
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Back home.....
Posts: 13,346
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Had you of looked in the "Useful AU threads" thread you would have happened upon THIS thread and wouldn't have needed to post this thread.
That "How to" is quite in depth and very helpful.
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Quote:
07 Renault Sport Megane F1 Team R26 #1397
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07-09-2010, 12:21 PM | #9 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: jimboomba
Posts: 4,638
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what a thread mine. some ones bored
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Welder/Fabricator at Beaudesert Exhuast Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors |
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07-09-2010, 12:39 PM | #10 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: searching for cubes
Posts: 6,672
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bored is still better than being an idiot.
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07-09-2010, 12:51 PM | #11 | ||||
Back to Le Frenchy
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Back home.....
Posts: 13,346
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Quote:
Nothing wrong with a thread mine It shows people are using the search function rather than just making a new thread on a topic already covered, hence the reason for the search button in the first place.
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Quote:
07 Renault Sport Megane F1 Team R26 #1397
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