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Old 10-05-2007, 08:25 PM   #1
Hords
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Default Camber Kits... are they really a necessity?

G'day all,

Had some bushes replaced in my front end and the salesperson advised that I should consider a camber kit. The mechanic who did the job told me there was just enough thread to do the required adjustments after the wheel alignment, but my steering wheel now angles a tad to the left, which to me is an annoyance, although it's cosmetic only. Has anyone had a similar experience, or more importantly, found it necessary to have a kit fitted? If it helps, my car is lowered too (king springs, low).

Thanks for any info,
Rob

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Old 10-05-2007, 08:34 PM   #2
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i had to have a kit fitted to my car and its only tickford suspension in the front which is the same as king spring low i was told by pedders that they recomend a kit if you lower an au at all hope that helps
cheers
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Old 10-05-2007, 08:34 PM   #3
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I have one on the ute and wouldnt lower a car without one, just means you cna get your tyre wear 100% and not have any issues with tyres wearing out on one side etc.
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Old 10-05-2007, 08:40 PM   #4
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u need one for sure when lowered.
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Old 10-05-2007, 08:41 PM   #5
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Thanks guys,

It was Pedders too that recommended it, but I'm just seeking other's opinions.
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Old 10-05-2007, 09:27 PM   #6
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seems odd the wheel being off centre as i understand it this adjustment is not camber related but acheived by changing the tie rod lenghts correct me if i am wrong
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Old 10-05-2007, 10:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by au3xr6
seems odd the wheel being off centre as i understand it this adjustment is not camber related but acheived by changing the tie rod lenghts correct me if i am wrong
What I thought too...
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Old 11-05-2007, 12:46 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by au3xr6
seems odd the wheel being off centre as i understand it this adjustment is not camber related but acheived by changing the tie rod lenghts correct me if i am wrong
Yep, spot on. And easy to fix yourself. If the wheel is tilted to the left, you need to take some length out of the left and add the same to the right (ie if you take half a turn out of the left, add half a turn to the right) - yes, it is that simple. It's just a lazy wheel aligner that won't bother getting your wheel straight.

A camber kit is not necessary. The factory camber bits do have some adjustment in them, so you only really need the kit if there is no adjustment left, and further adjustment is required. As the car gets older though, and the bushes etc wear, it's just easier to fit a camber kit, than it is to replace the worn bishes etc. Not to mention cheaper.
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Old 11-05-2007, 01:34 AM   #9
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when i put my momo wheel on it was a bit off i took it to my tyre bloke and told him the allignment was ok just the wheel was wrong 15 min and it was done good as new
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Old 11-05-2007, 08:34 AM   #10
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If its just lows, you should be able to shim up the standard parts.

I have heard if its an XR model you have much more to play with and can get away shimming the standard parts with super lows.
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Old 11-05-2007, 11:26 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOWAU
If its just lows, you should be able to shim up the standard parts.

I have heard if its an XR model you have much more to play with and can get away shimming the standard parts with super lows.
There's nothing special about the factory camber adjusters in an XR or anything else. It actually depends purely on the individual car. Some will need a kit going from stock to low height, some won't need one going to Ultra lows (rare though). Manufacturing tolerances mean there can be up to 10mm difference in the fitup of structural components etc, which may be the difference between needing a kit and not needing one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by au3xr6
when i put my momo wheel on it was a bit off i took it to my tyre bloke and told him the allignment was ok just the wheel was wrong 15 min and it was done good as new
That's the funniest thing I've read on here for ages. The steering wheel is mounted on a squarish shaft, not splines like older cars. So removing one wheel with a square hole and replacing it with another one with a square hole will not see your wheel lean one way or the other. Unless you mount it 90 degrees out, but I'm pretty sure you'd notice that!
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Old 11-05-2007, 12:19 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC


That's the funniest thing I've read on here for ages. The steering wheel is mounted on a squarish shaft, not splines like older cars. So removing one wheel with a square hole and replacing it with another one with a square hole will not see your wheel lean one way or the other. Unless you mount it 90 degrees out, but I'm pretty sure you'd notice that!
JC "you've done it again", you point out the obvious to those that miss it LOL

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Old 11-05-2007, 12:25 PM   #13
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You may need it or you may not. As stated its just luck of the draw, when I had pedders lower my car I told them to fit it cause at $100-200 (I think from memory) its just easier to get it done while everythings being done
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Old 11-05-2007, 12:34 PM   #14
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I had no positive camber adjustment left & was wearing tyres badly on the insides from brand new
I had the Pedders kit fitted & aligned properly & it has been perfect since
Of course Ford told me there was nothing wrong with the car & that it was within their allowable tolerance.
I believe you can also fit the upper control arm mounting brackets from a T series as they allow more room for adjustment.

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Old 11-05-2007, 01:31 PM   #15
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I would recommend it, their not expensive and can save you some tyre wear issues as mentioned above. I have the kmac kit fitted to mine.
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Old 11-05-2007, 03:29 PM   #16
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I assumed I'd need one going to superlows, but turns out I didn't, so I might be one of the lucky few. I pushed the guy for it, said I was happy to pay etc, but he insisted I didn't need it, and I trust him, he knows his stuff. Anyway, a couple of thousand kays later tyres are wearing evenly, but I'm keeping an eye on them. I think it's safe to assume you'd need one though, especially going to superlows or ultralows. Cheers.
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Old 11-05-2007, 04:55 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
Yep, spot on. And easy to fix yourself. If the wheel is tilted to the left, you need to take some length out of the left and add the same to the right (ie if you take half a turn out of the left, add half a turn to the right) - yes, it is that simple. It's just a lazy wheel aligner that won't bother getting your wheel straight.
Wait what, So what you're saying if your steering wheel is straight that the toe is correct ?

LOL, good luck with that.
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Old 11-05-2007, 05:26 PM   #18
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Wait what, So what you're saying if your steering wheel is straight that the toe is correct ?

LOL, good luck with that.
No. I'm saying that if your toe in is correct, and your steering wheel isn't straight, then the way to straighten the steering wheel while keeping the correct toe in is by doing what I described above.
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Old 11-05-2007, 06:17 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
No. I'm saying that if your toe in is correct, and your steering wheel isn't straight, then the way to straighten the steering wheel while keeping the correct toe in is by doing what I described above.
One would then know if their toe is correct afterwards how? Just because the Au has an idiot proof of fitting a steering wheel.

Judging the state of toe by a straight steering wheel is stupid, many other factors stuff the toe up like camber, castor.
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Old 11-05-2007, 07:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackPearl
One would then know if their toe is correct afterwards how? Just because the Au has an idiot proof of fitting a steering wheel.

Judging the state of toe by a straight steering wheel is stupid, many other factors stuff the toe up like camber, castor.
Mate, you obviously have no idea what you're talking about. The steering wheel should be straight when the toe adjustment is done. If it's not quite right, then you can straighten the wheel and adjust the relative toe afterwards. The total toe measurement will not change, so long as the same adjustment is made plus on one side, and minus on the other.

As an easy example you might be understand:
I have 10 1m lengths of wood placed on a line so that there are 4 on the left of "centre" and 6 on the right (ie timber lined up incorrectly on the centreline). To change the centre (which is painted on the ground so cannot be moved), I move 1m from the RHS and put it at the end of the LHS to balance up the centreline so that there are now 5 each side of the line. The overall length is still 10m.

This is in effect what happens if you add a bit of length to a steering arm on one side and take the same amount off the steering arm on the other side. The overall toe-in/out should stay the same.

Camber and castor are different measurement of angle, and have little to do with toe, though you adjust them first, then adjust the toe to suit. As I am not suggesting to change camber or castor, the toe adjustment is still the last thing done to get the steering wheel straight while the wheels are pointing straight. If you like the steering wheels at an angle when the road wheels are pointing straight, that's your business.
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Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

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Old 11-05-2007, 08:32 PM   #21
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Another most amusing series of posts from JC! LOL!

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Old 11-05-2007, 08:36 PM   #22
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Another most amusing series of posts from JC! LOL!

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Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

FPV 335 build stats: <click here>

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Old 13-05-2007, 03:56 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
That's the funniest thing I've read on here for ages. The steering wheel is mounted on a squarish shaft, not splines like older cars. So removing one wheel with a square hole and replacing it with another one with a square hole will not see your wheel lean one way or the other. Unless you mount it 90 degrees out, but I'm pretty sure you'd notice that!
be nice JC i tell you I put the wheel on and it was about 2 degrees to the left and I know it is a square shaft only thing i can think of is the casting was a different batch and the square was slightly off :
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Old 13-05-2007, 10:02 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by au3xr6
be nice JC i tell you I put the wheel on and it was about 2 degrees to the left and I know it is a square shaft only thing i can think of is the casting was a different batch and the square was slightly off :
OK - I was going to put something to that effect in to my reply, but thought QC would take care of that, but yes, that's the only way I can think of the wheel to be off centre if your alignment was spot on prior to changing wheels, and the wheel was off-centre after.

And I'm always nice - if not a little sarcastic sometimes.
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1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs).
Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

FPV 335 build stats: <click here>

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