slotted rotors

BillC · 06-09-2007, 02:32 PM

Can anybody tell me the best place to get slotted rotors for the front of an auxr8 III ? My breaks are pulsing again after it was machined about 20,000 ago.

Casper · 06-09-2007, 02:39 PM

Repco, Bursons, Supercheap. All of them sell DBA's retail with regular specials on them. If you want to go for a cheaper option theres heaps avaliable on Ebay on a regular basis that are usually RDA's rather than DBA's though.

Look at about $100 to $120 per rotor.

Heres an example: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ford-Falcon-A...QQcmdZViewItem

BillC · 06-09-2007, 03:01 PM

Thanks Casper. Are DBA's the way to go ? I know nothing about breaks.

flathead 276 · 06-09-2007, 03:22 PM

DBA'S the way go, doesn't matter where you buy them from. I think Casper would agree with this shop around for the best price. Don't skimp on pads either, you would be silly to.

tex · 06-09-2007, 03:30 PM

Mate, if you can get 20k out of stock rotors between machining you're doing well...........

DBA, RDA and aftermarket PBR etc are 1000000 x better than stock ones.

Casper · 06-09-2007, 03:31 PM

I personally prefer DBA's over RDA's but, that said, others prefer RDA's as better value for money for the same stuff. I doubt you'd go to wrong with either and, to be honest, that Ebay link I posted actually seems like a pretty good deal.

As Flathead 276 says though... do not skimp on pads. If anything the pads are more important than the disks. Get some top quality pads. Some of them are Bendix Ulitmate, Ferodo Formula, EBC Greenstuff or similar.

BillC · 06-09-2007, 03:52 PM

I have actually replaced the pads with bendix ultimates about 5,000 k's ago. I will have a look at all the local dealers this weekend and make the decision (Supercheap and autobahn etc). The link does look pretty good at the moment. Whats DIMPLED. I can see what slotted is but can see no difference. I see that the slotted and dimpled ones are about $50 more expensive. Is it worth the extra ?

FGII-XR6 · 06-09-2007, 04:10 PM

the reason they shudder and how to solve the problem are explained here http://www.dba.com.au/2006/techdocs/T026.asp

Casper · 06-09-2007, 04:14 PM

Dont worry about dimpled but slotted is certainly worth it.

Dimpled is like "almost drilled". Think of the skin of a golf ball.

blacklabel · 06-09-2007, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by au3xr6

the reason they shudder and how to solve the problem are explained here http://www.dba.com.au/2006/techdocs/T026.asp

That's a good informative explanation about what causes brake shudder.
I too, am close to ditching my stock rotors and going DBA. I am sick and tired of having to get them machined after only 20 odd thou km from new.I'm on my second set of new rotors,only a year old and already machined once.
It's the frist big thing on my "to do" list!

ayeyew · 06-09-2007, 05:47 PM

I bought DBA Gold xdrilled & slotted for my AU.

Best investment ever! My car was shuddering even when i was braking from about 25km/h, lmao

They were only $20-30 more expensive than the regular slotted's and they look soooo much meaner

Real easy to fit too, only took me and a mate about 25 mins to do

http://www.dba.com.au/2006/product_standard.asp

looks awesome behind my Rims

blacklabel · 06-09-2007, 07:42 PM

Hell,they look the bizzo don't they.
So is this a job that I can do on a sat avo myself,rather than spending the $80 per hour on a mechanic,or would I be better letting the pros sort it for me?

Casper · 06-09-2007, 07:45 PM

Fitting rotors takes about 30 minutes a side.. including jacking up the car and takeing off the wheels.

Its a very quick job.

ayeyew · 06-09-2007, 07:47 PM

You can do it urself

All u need is a G-Clamp and a ratchet (forget what size, lol)

Make sure u dont have too much brake fluid too, cuz when u use the G-Clamp to clamp up the piston (or w/e it is in the caliper, my mate was explaining to me) the fluid levels rise and it can flow over, ike mine did.

If u have a mate who has done it before, i'd suggest buying them a beer or two and getting them to do it, its one of those things which is hard to explain, but once u see it done, you could do it yourself the next time

Putting the wheels back on can be a bit of a beeyatch if u dont do it properly (i strained my back, lmfao)

blacklabel · 06-09-2007, 08:07 PM

Ok,this sounds like an upgrade that I will try doing myself.I haven't buggered anything up yet that I've attempted myself,so thats got to be good!

This whole thread has got me thinking about the relative merits and shortfalls of rotors-DBA etc..V stock-especially after reading the informative "how and why" on brake shudder on the DBA site via au3xr6's link.
I have a couple of questions that come to mind.
If the main cause of shudder is,as according to DBA, the 2 faces (rotor and mounting)not being accurately parallel because of rust scale etc..- then wouldn't the affects(shudder) be the same for any rotor,if mounted without attending to this rust/scale properly?
Or are the DBA rotors just superior in materials/manufacture and design over the stock ones?

BillC · 07-09-2007, 08:04 AM

I love this website. Thanks for the help. I now have a much better idea of what I want. I really like the look of those DBA Gold xdrilled. Anybody seen any on ebay cheap ? I did a search but couldn't find any.

xr8 007 · 07-09-2007, 09:04 AM

i just put the dba slotted rotors in. They do the job. But i should have gotten then cross drilled and slotted rotors for the "look" factor...oh well next time

JC · 07-09-2007, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillC

I love this website. Thanks for the help. I now have a much better idea of what I want. I really like the look of those DBA Gold xdrilled. Anybody seen any on ebay cheap ? I did a search but couldn't find any.

Search for "slotted ford" on ebay. There are a couple of different brands, one of which is MRC or MDB or MDS or something like that - I have them on my EL, and they have proven to be every bit as good as the DBAs, except that the hub goes a rusty colour. But if you paint the hub with killrust before fitting, this won't happen. Just make sure you get the right ones for your model. 500 & 501 is for AU1, 502 & 503 is for AU2.

JC · 07-09-2007, 09:50 AM

Also, in terms of actually doing the brakes - check out GKs build thread. I'm sure there's a "How To" in there somewhere.

Rear rotors "How To":
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...5&postcount=54

Fronts are much the same, really.

Here's one for painting callipers and hubs:
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...8&postcount=76

flathead 276 · 07-09-2007, 01:03 PM

A tip for rotor replacement, sand the hub face to remove the rust scale that builds up between the rotor & the hub, a dirty job I know as I did it when I replaced mine (even did the rears) as it can cause excessive runout on the replacment disc. I used a small detail sander to do this, even between the studs.

BillC · 11-09-2007, 01:40 PM

Did my research and looking around and decided to go with RDA slotted, dimpled and annodised (a nice gold colour). Found them in e.bay for $250 for the pair delivered to my door. The cheapest DBA Gold I could get was $350 for the pair. A couple of spare parts people told me that DBA Gold's had some cracking problems and very high wear on break pads. Mind you others said that they were great. In the end it was the price difference that made me go with the RDA's. Thanks again for all your help.

11-09-2007, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillC

I love this website. Thanks for the help. I now have a much better idea of what I want. I really like the look of those DBA Gold xdrilled. Anybody seen any on ebay cheap ? I did a search but couldn't find any.

Keep in mind cross-drilled rotors are more prone to cracking over just slotted.

b2tf · 11-09-2007, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackLS

Keep in mind cross-drilled rotors are more prone to cracking over just slotted.

Mate of mine and I are going to test that theory - hes just put some DBA 4000's on his VS SS and is not nice to his brakes, so we're going to see if we can actually make them crack.

Then if they do we'll just send em back thru work :hihi:

mik · 11-09-2007, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by au3xr6

the reason they shudder and how to solve the problem are explained here http://www.dba.com.au/2006/techdocs/T026.asp

unfortunatley there are more reasons for rotor problems, a paragraph from a different brake company

What causes 'Warped Rotors'?
Typically warped rotors are caused not by a failure of the rotor itself.
Warped rotors (in most instances) are caused by the brake pads being operated at temperatures outside of their specified range. When the pads get too hot the pad material actually melts and 'fuses' itself to the rotor surface and creates a 'bump' on the surface of the rotor. In most cases this is not noticeable to the naked eye. This creates an annoying vibration when the brakes are applied. The only solution to this is turning (grinding) the rotors or installing new rotors.
We do not recommend turning rotors: It removes additional metal and reduces the the thermal capacity of the discs.
The best way to combat this condition is to use GOOD QUALITY street performance brake pads which have a higher operating temperature range.
Properly 'bedding-in' the pads and discs is a must.

odysseyesm · 11-09-2007, 10:18 PM

Currently have just purchased a AU2 Fairmont Ghia I6 but previously had a Magna Sport with some grooved RDA discs and Bendix Ultimate pads. They were sensational at all speeds, no fading at all but chewed through the pads very quickly (about 5000k's) and the discs did crack @ about 7000k's.
I reckon the best setup for that car was solid (as in not drilled or slotted) aftermarket discs and the Bendix ultimates or EBC greenstuff. Also got stacks of pad dust on the rims which if you don't clean off regularly will stain the alloy.

Does anyone know what the Cabbies use?

The Fairmont has grooved discs already (dunno about the pad type) which don't pulse @ the mo, but I will try the solid discs and good pads when the time comes.

I heard QFM (QLD Friction Material) make a good pad and can even customise the material to suit your app by bonding onto your old pad backing plate if need be, everything from street driven to full on endurance racing apps. I'm guessing the Falcons wouldn't need custom pads anyway as they would be prob one of their more popular cars.

Car details to follow....

FGII-XR6 · 11-09-2007, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mik

We do not recommend turning rotors: It removes additional metal and reduces the the thermal capacity of the discs.

: do they sell rotors too? it is accepted practice to machine rotors and they are designed for this. even Ford state you cam machine them. next they will be telling us we should replace the rotors with every set of pads to maintain optimal braking. and as for thremal efficence with a reduced thickness ( with in tollerance) the friction surface that creates the heat would be closer to the ventilation that runs through the centre would that not dissipate heat better??I don't know who they are but if i find out I won't be buying their pads they either don't know what the're talking about or are trying to rip us off

soulfire · 12-09-2007, 09:04 AM

...
there is a minimum width on discs and should not machine past that. until that point, machining discs is ok - otherwise about 80% of car discs on the road are unroadworthy.

mik · 12-09-2007, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by au3xr6

: do they sell rotors too? it is accepted practice to machine rotors and they are designed for this. even Ford state you cam machine them. next they will be telling us we should replace the rotors with every set of pads to maintain optimal braking. and as for thremal efficence with a reduced thickness ( with in tollerance) the friction surface that creates the heat would be closer to the ventilation that runs through the centre would that not dissipate heat better??I don't know who they are but if i find out I won't be buying their pads they either don't know what the're talking about or are trying to rip us off

regarding the thermal difference you may be partly right but on the other hand if the rotor has less mass ie heat sink it will heat up faster.

**Mechan1k** · 13-09-2007, 08:29 AM

Well ... to add to this ... my RDA slotted rotors on the ute have been on there for 50,000km so far ... the fronts will be sent off to be machined as they are starting to warp.

Although the Bendix CTs I have on the front still have a lot of material on them ... not sure if to cut them back/have them roughed up a bit (not sureif it needs it).

This is with Sydney traffic/stop-start/leavy load/courier work as well ... so they have lasted very well for the work I have given them.

Will see how it goes with the pads though ... probably need a deglaze and level them out again (warped rotors have probably produced uneven wear on them) ... I'll report back.

Oh ... if i get time I'll be putting braided lines on and a fluid replacement as well.

b2tf · 13-09-2007, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mechan1k

Well ... to add to this ... my RDA slotted rotors on the ute have been on there for 50,000km so far ... the fronts will be sent off to be machined as they are starting to warp.

Although the Bendix CTs I have on the front still have a lot of material on them ... not sure if to cut them back/have them roughed up a bit (not sureif it needs it).

This is with Sydney traffic/stop-start/leavy load/courier work as well ... so they have lasted very well for the work I have given them.

Will see how it goes with the pads though ... probably need a deglaze and level them out again (warped rotors have probably produced uneven wear on them) ... I'll report back.

Oh ... if i get time I'll be putting braided lines on and a fluid replacement as well.

Simon

my RDA slot's have done around 30,000 and are now getting a lot of shudder. Im not by any means kind to them but I had hoped to get more time out of them before machining. Pending the results of my mates DBA test, I might whack some of those on.