![]() |
|
Welcome to the Australian Ford Forums forum. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and inserts advertising. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features without post based advertising banners. Registration is simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. Please Note: All new registrations go through a manual approval queue to keep spammers out. This is checked twice each day so there will be a delay before your registration is activated. |
|
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 781
|
Hi all,
Firstly, Thanks to Cobrin for the excellent write up about timing belt replacement. Secondly, It's convinced me that it's best left to someone else ![]() Which brings up the question: What is the typical cost for this job? The MA has just gone through the 10 year mark - I think that this is a trigger, but it has only been in daily use since we bought it in October 2009 and a little over 100,000km in that time - perhaps an inspection first. So if there are members who have had this done and are willing to share cost experience I'll be grateful. I'll bet I can separate the dealer jobs from the independents if I get a few replies. Thanks in advance
__________________
AlanD ![]() Our Drive: Mondeo MD TDCi Titanium Wagon Ruby Red |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#2 | ||
Challenge Accepted!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Under the Southern Cross
Posts: 882
|
To set the base price from Ford:
Standard Payment Price $330 The maximum price for your 150,000 kms (10 years) standard service is: $1185 Additional Service Items
For me: DIY AUD$99 Timing belt kit + water pump +Del AU$175 (+13 other items) inc. wp gasket,idler bearing,tensioner,front main oil seal and new cranshaft retainer bolt. AUD$57 Diesel Timing Set Tools AUD$60 Nulon HD Diesel Long Life Coolant
__________________
Undecided replacement... [SOLD] -2009 MB Mondeo Zetec TDCI- [SOLD] Last edited by cobrin; 12-03-2018 at 10:10 AM. |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#3 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
|
Prices are rubbery.
Between $190 or so and $1200, for belt kit with water pump, parts only. Cheapest is Gates from UK, Ford AUS the the most expensive. Done by a Ford dealer is about $1500, NO WATER PUMP. What's puzzles me is the huge difference in the cost of parts. Are Ford parts in AUS really worth 10X the cost? |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#4 | |||
Challenge Accepted!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Under the Southern Cross
Posts: 882
|
Quote:
I just know the timing belt I did with everything else, was dirt cheap and that's my pay back.
__________________
Undecided replacement... [SOLD] -2009 MB Mondeo Zetec TDCI- [SOLD] |
|||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#5 | |||
Starter Motor
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 14
|
Quote:
|
|||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#6 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
|
Cheapest I found:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GATES-KP...4383.l4275.c10 Shipping cost on many UK suppliers is a a flat $199 AUD. This one is supposedly $8.50, so I ordered that one. Another one I looked at had a sensible shipping cost based on the weight of the consignment. They weigh it and email the cost of shipping before checkout. |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#7 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
|
I'm fixing my COX ride on mower, I expect the timing belt on Mondeo to be easier. So far I've managed to extract a sheared off bolt, found replacement belts which have self destructed and a rubber/plastic damper which completely disappeared.
I'm not sure which I enjoy riding the most, the mower or the Mondeo. |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#8 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
|
Timing belt renewal on my 2011 mc TDCi:
Removing/displacing starter motor in needed to lock flywheel. On MC removal of lower intake manifold is needed to access starter motor. Looks like egr coolant hose and oil dipstick as well, the dipstick at least having migrated from right to left or left right from MA to MC. MA were on the other side. I got interested in the blue stuff on the new crankshaft bolt. As far as I can tell by looking at it through a microscope, it has tiny glass beads. Googling, these break and catalyse a chemical reaction in the threadlocking substance, which according to a colour code might be an epoxy stuff, ie, light blue. To soften this threadlocker, if it be needed, the temperature of the bolt should be taken to about 150 deg C. The bolt is torqued to stretch at 60 degrees of rotatation, and wonder if heating it might make it easier to undo on that account. Meanwhile I found a transmission cooler hose leaking, and the rear crankshaft seal leaking a bit. 200000km. I bet that would cost a lot, so let it drip. No other big problems though, so happy really, apart from the fact the timing chain lasted 500,000 km plus on my Falcon. I did have to re fuel-twice as often though. |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#9 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
|
Doing my 2nd MY2011 MC TDCi:
No need to remove engine mount, dipstick etc, just the starter motor. This may be a fuel efficient engine, but man hours of maintainance is the price. Still, I like halving servo visits at 1200km per tank, and the grunt. If Ford is to survive, open the bonnet to the human hand and stop those silly Ranger ads. |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#10 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
|
I've done my second timing belt now. I hadn't done one before, so a bit of angst of the unknown. The first took 14 days and the second 5. Some thoughts and opinions which might assist DIY enthusiasts:
Best to replace timing belt + tensioner + idler, aux belt + tensioner + idler and water pump. At 180000km the second car's belts, water pump and crank seal all showed signs of age. Still, depends on driving conditions I guess. The water pump in the Gates kit was UK was cheap but I didn't like the look of the gasket so got a pump from Ford which comes with a rubber coated metal gasket. Second time round I just got all the parts from Ford, about $880 all up. I suppose the most important thing I learned was about timing belt tensioning. In short; do not adjust the tensioner unless the crankshaft pulley is free to rotate on the crankshaft. There's a tensioned and an non-tensioned side to the timing belt. The tensioned side is the one with the tensioner, the other side goes from the cam pulley to the crank, and has no tensioning device. For the tensioner to apply an even tension to the whole belt, it follows that the crank pulley must be free to rotate during the tensioning, i.e. it must be loose. The oil seal I mentioned before. The only remaining issue, or non issue if you like, is whether or not to use a rattle gun on the crank bolt. The Sealey locking tool blurb forbids it, as does the Ford Focus ws manual, but Alan Howatt on youtube reckons its great. If any other die hard DIYers are thinking of taking it on, I'd say do it, but allow plenty of time. Last edited by rondeo; 09-11-2018 at 07:16 PM. |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
This user likes this post: |
![]() |
#11 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,259
|
What mileage are you meant to change it at?
__________________
MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#12 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Goulburn NSW
Posts: 316
|
Pretty sure its 200K km, so generally done at the 195K service to match up with the 15K service intervals.
A mate of mine who used to be a Ford mechanic said he would do it every 100K but I'm thinking of going out to 390K km for the next one (if it makes it lol)
__________________
2012 MC Mondeo LX TDCi Wagon - Highway Hack 392K km and counting - Now gone 😢 2008 Peugeot 308 HDi - Highway Hack II 2008 Citroen C4 HDi - Highway Hack III 2010 Peugeot 308 HDi SW - Shaggin Wagon II 2016 VDJ200R Landcruiser GX Wagon - TTD V8 Power ![]() 2017 Toyota RAV4 GX Wagon - Shopping trolley - Gone 2022 Volvo XC40 T4 Inscription - Shopping trolley II 2002 BMW R1150GS |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#13 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,259
|
The UK Haynes manual says 100,000 km and the NZ service book has 125,000 km!
__________________
MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#14 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Goulburn NSW
Posts: 316
|
Petrol or Diesel? I'll double check my book this afternoon but I'm sure the diesel is 200K
__________________
2012 MC Mondeo LX TDCi Wagon - Highway Hack 392K km and counting - Now gone 😢 2008 Peugeot 308 HDi - Highway Hack II 2008 Citroen C4 HDi - Highway Hack III 2010 Peugeot 308 HDi SW - Shaggin Wagon II 2016 VDJ200R Landcruiser GX Wagon - TTD V8 Power ![]() 2017 Toyota RAV4 GX Wagon - Shopping trolley - Gone 2022 Volvo XC40 T4 Inscription - Shopping trolley II 2002 BMW R1150GS |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#15 | ||
Challenge Accepted!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Under the Southern Cross
Posts: 882
|
my '09 2L tdci haynes suggests 240K kms or 10yrs, as does the ford service guide booklet.
__________________
Undecided replacement... [SOLD] -2009 MB Mondeo Zetec TDCI- [SOLD] |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#16 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,259
|
That's weird, I have the UK manual for the 07 - 12 and it states 62,500 miles for the diesel cambelt.
__________________
MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#17 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: upper lockyer qld
Posts: 517
|
[
If Ford is to survive, open the bonnet to the human hand and stop those silly Ranger ads. i wouldnt buy Silly Ranger as they are rubbish when reach 150,000km need expenives repair or sell it because the cost of repairing become worthless car |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#18 | ||
Diesel Sniffer
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,311
|
Checked the factory books in a 2017 Mondeo diesel today & Ford states 10years or 150k for the timing belt replacement
|
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#19 | ||
Diesel Sniffer
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,311
|
Does anyone have access to the timing tools required to do the job or a link for some decent tools to buy?
|
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#20 | ||
Challenge Accepted!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Under the Southern Cross
Posts: 882
|
this is essentially what I used to lock the engine. I found my brand was Sealey.
no idea how much this would cost but you can find essentially the same thing on ebay https://www.endeavourtools.com.au/ET...jlr-timing-kit
__________________
Undecided replacement... [SOLD] -2009 MB Mondeo Zetec TDCI- [SOLD] |
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
This user likes this post: |
![]() |
#21 | ||
Diesel Sniffer
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,311
|
Cheers Corbin, looks good.
|
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#22 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2022
Posts: 121
|
Quote:
The actual belt looked fine, (I guess they always do until they break) but the water pump had spun it's impeller. In a big way! I didn't lock the crankshaft, just locked the camshaft then marked the crankshaft at one of the bellhousing drain holes. Seems to have done the trick OK, the car's running great now. |
|||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#23 | ||
Diesel Sniffer
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,311
|
Hello Alan thanks for the reply, a few questions if I may, did u have to heat the crank bolt to remove it?(from what I've seen the crank pulley needs to come off if so did u replace crank bolt & what did u use to hold crank to re-tension?) With the water pump being in such bad shape was the car running hot or having temperature fluctuating? Was there anything else u needed to change such as cam seals or cam chains or front crank seal? How much did the belt kit cost(did u get a belt & new tensioner, tensioner bolt)& what brand belt did u use? (I believe OEM belt is Gates)
|
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#24 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2022
Posts: 121
|
Quote:
Yes, the car was overheating. The pump really wasn't working at all, so the engine would overheat, go into limp mode, yet the temp guage showed 60 degrees. I used a heat gun to heat the bolt to about 120c, and a cordless rattle gun to remove the bolt. The crank seal and cam seal were good, so I left them alone. I tighted the bolt with the rattle gun, and checked it with a breaker bar. I just used the 8mm drill bit I used to lock the cam to hold it all while tightening up. Before and after tightening I checked the paint mark on the flywheel against the bellhousing. |
|||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
This user likes this post: |
![]() |
#26 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2022
Posts: 121
|
|
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#27 | ||
Diesel Sniffer
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,311
|
Sounds like its going ok ,so should be fine(although there is an interesting thread-old thread in the SZ forum were anthor member did as u did & chased fault codes for months as he was a tooth out on his cam timing & also anthor interesting one were anthor member did the same & lost his engine.....valves into pistons, broke a cam gear) although from what I've read & also watching anthor one of Taxi mechanic Alan's utubes(I like the taxi mechanic.....but he is a little ruff for me, but he's good value & has a lot of interesting & informative clips-im still watching him even though he's not fixing Mondeos any more & moved to the Philippine) it looks like the Mondeo engine is a little more forgiving & just breaks rocker arms....as for me i will buy a similar kit to which cobrin has listed & lock the crank...... I'm a little OCD with bolt tensions & i also feel it's a little to much strain to put the cam gear under....but anyway each to there own & fair play to u that its worked without issues(I believe if something was wrong it would of shown up in your 40ks) as I said previously thanks for your comments it's much appreciated 👍
|
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#28 | ||
Diesel Sniffer
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,311
|
Hey AlanM any chance u have part numbers for the timing kit & the water pump? Also before I go to far is yours an MD? If not disregard the part No request (although they could be useful for other members)
|
||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
#29 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2022
Posts: 121
|
Quote:
If you were out by a whole tooth the paint mark on the flywheel would be nowhere to be seen. The keyway on the crank timing gear does allow a few degrees of leeway, and I guess it's possible the crankshaft could turn by that amount relative to the gear as you tighten the bolt, but your paint marks would show that up too. But if the threads are clean (it was a new bolt and locktight) that shouldn't happen anyway. This was the fourth timing belt I've installed, 3 of them on 2.0 TDCI Mondeos, and this method has always worked fine. |
|||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
This user likes this post: |
![]() |
#30 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2022
Posts: 121
|
Quote:
I ordered it in person at Autobarn, they wouldn't accept CC payment by phone. There's no kit (belt rollers and water pump) listed on their website. I'll have to see if the receipt is in the box with the old parts and see if it has a part number. BTW, for a laugh, check out Repco's price! It's about $950 for the kit with water pump, and about $400 for the belt and roller kit without the water pump. That makes it a pretty exxy water pump! |
|||
![]() |
![]() ![]() |
This user likes this post: |