|
Welcome to the Australian Ford Forums forum. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and inserts advertising. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features without post based advertising banners. Registration is simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. Please Note: All new registrations go through a manual approval queue to keep spammers out. This is checked twice each day so there will be a delay before your registration is activated. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
23-11-2007, 12:43 AM | #1 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 3
|
Hi guys, my girlfriend has a KE laser (1.6L carb) which has an over heating problem. The coolant is blown out through the resevoir. Now, the car has been to the mechanic and he has said its a cracked head or the head gasket has gone causing the coolant system to build pressure- sounds about right. (PS. the resevoir bottle and feedback line are in fine condition-not the problem) The quote to fix was $1000 AUD if it was the gasket or up to $1600 if it needed a replacement head! I can say right now, the job is not worth that much nor is the car. I have worked only on volkswagens so I have little knowledge of the tools required for this job. Firstly if the head/gasket is clearly not the problem please suggest what is. Secondly, before I start dismantling, what tools are required to undo the head? What are the studs like? (socket head caps or hex?) and any other advice. I will borrow a service manual from the library tomorrow but I would like to organise tools before I leave home. Thanks heaps,
Ben. |
||
23-11-2007, 10:58 AM | #2 | ||
growing up is optional
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Gawler area SA
Posts: 3,303
|
A grand to to the gasket seems a bit on the high side, but I guess it all depends on what their quote includes. If the head is warped and needs to be straightened, then you are also looking at recutting the valve seats and tunnel boring the cam caps. That sort of work adds up. Otherwise its just a hardness test, pressure test, maybe some welding to fix corrosion and a face.
I'd also replace the cam belt and have the radiator cleaned if it was me. Oh, and don't forget the thermostat. If the head is totally stuffed because it is soft or whatever, then a changeover or second hand head will be required. $1600? Easily. I quote on this sort of stuff on a daily basis, and trust me, it doesn't take much for the $$ to go up to that level. Its not that its a hard job, but the machine work isnt cheap when you start going further. Also at $75 an hour (lots more in some places) no job is cheap! |
||
23-11-2007, 11:02 AM | #3 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 3
|
Ive never paid for a mechanic to fix my car, Ive done the head replacements myself and to pick up a 2nd hand head from somewhere and do it myself would fall well short of 1000. Do you know what socket/tool fits the head studs - I havnt seen them yet.
|
||
23-11-2007, 11:21 AM | #4 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Hunter Valley
Posts: 3,184
|
ive got a 1.6l twin cam injected motor that i want to get rid of, i had it in my ke laser that i done a retro on, i want $500 for it if you want it
|
||
24-11-2007, 01:23 AM | #5 | |||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 3
|
Quote:
I still stand by the car is not worth it but the job is probably worth 1000 for these reasons; the amount of fuel emission controls that just make the job harder plus none of them on the car actually work as they have been bypassed or blocked over the years. The fact the engine is E-W and the design team had never planned on anyone ever fixing these things by putting only an inch clearance between the belts and the body work! And all after 17 years, the head appearing to have never been removed, the head gasket was well and truely baked on. Working on this car sucked - clearly not German engineering. |
|||
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|