Things that go snap

[Whoosha]

Well just spent the day under Storkys S1 XR8 to see what all the crunching and banging was, with the help of a mate we found this mess





The car has been with Troy for 5 years and seen a fair bit off 1/4 mile work with some good resulst 2006 Sreet Fords DYO winner & 2007 runner up.
So for a stock 3.45 lsd on IRS it hasnt done to bad. We are not to sure
what went first as the 8 bolts that retain the lsd internally were all loose
with 3 and 1/2 gone completely ( we assume thats the metelic sludge that ran
the out drain plug) or the left brearing cone which is came out in 2 pieces
or the right hand side which is welded to the shell either way it wasn"t preety
the purpose of the thread is just to let the more competent home mechanics amongst us not to be afraid to have a go at removing the diff yourself as it was quite easy compared to the BAs . it took about 1 and 1/2 hours with drink breaks : just had to put the car on stands,remove the wheels,
take the lower bolt out from the control arm both sides,drop the tye rod ends, unclip the hand brakecable,this allows the stub axel to swing up wards so you can lever the axels out from the side off the diff housing.(they are only secured in by a circlip) drop the tail shaft and remove all the retaing bolts from the housing to the K frame and it will literally fall out on the ground :hihi: it really was that simple, the hard part is finding a good secondhand one to replace it with :

[Scott]

yuk! Can smell it from here :(

[Whoosha]

Originally Posted by GTP006

yuk! Can smell it from here :(

1 hot shower and 1/2 a can of hand cleaner and I still can too :

[DoreSlamR]

That looks a bit nasty, one thing i never really understood is why does diff oil smell the way it does?

[RG]

ooooohhhhh nasty looking. You found a diff for that yet? I haven't had any luck up this way.

[blackers10]

thats 1 buggered lookin diff!!

sounds easy to undo tho

i beleive the diff oil stinks due to the additive thats put in.. ga50 i think its called
apparently nicknamed "stink" lol due to the horrible smell

has he thought about a single spinner and a Lokka like all the E series boys just purchased ??

given the hell this car seems to recieve with all the 1/4 mile time
might be worth a try due to the lockability etc while keeping it street legal etc

[ronwest]

Originally Posted by blackers10

i beleive the diff oil stinks due to the additive thats put in.. ga50 i think its called
apparently nicknamed "stink" lol due to the horrible smell

Back when I knew a bit about oils (70's and 80's) it used to be that sulphur and (I think) phosphorus were the main EP additives for gear oils.

Whatever the other additives are it's sulphur that gives gear oil the distinctive smell.

[GK]

What a mess indeed!

You are a handy bloke for the Crannies to have around Whoosha!

Hope a replacement diff is sorted soon.

GK

[peterban]

Well Whoosha I am disappointed that you can't fix it with a couple of your adjusters!!!
I suppose it is easier and cheaper to find a second hand diff than getting that one rebuilt.
Good job on getting it out and pulling it apart.
I think it is a special art in getting it back together so that it doesn't whine.

[FRDGAL]

Nothing a bit of glue won't fix :yeees:

[No Judge]

Originally Posted by FRDGAL

Nothing a bit of glue won't fix :yeees:

Maybe then some polish so it will buff out?

(I always wanted to say that)

[Pinkbits]

I know where there is a series II complete rear end not doing anything atm

[STORKYGT]

yhea so do i bloke i asked him if he was hard up for cash he wasnt interested lol .....

[Whoosha]

Well had a bit off luck for a change Storky and Jake found a diff that was presumably a bit worn and had a whine and a bit off a rattle in it : but with a rock bottom deal and no real choice as all of his old one including the housing was stuffed they took a punt on it . lobbed up at lunch time again : so we pulled the back of and gave it a good wash and clean out, with no real scoring anyway decided to take a chance Eddy route. filled it full of fresh FOMOCO approved oil and friction modifyer, put it back in the hole and see what happens ... : 2 hours later with lunch here"s the result

: I get to have me arvo nap and Storkys smiling again :
we think the whine may have been a wheel bearing that the previuos owner of the diff said he had to replace the same time go figure hey and we all know what a AU LSD diff sounds like with no additive in it hey :
end result no whine no knocking BOUNUS.....

[F6 R-Spec]

Good on ya mate for taking it on, Diffs are not that hard but most people are afraid of them.
You should be able to fix that lSD centre, pick up a cone and side gears second hand and put it back together as long as the hats cone surface are not damaged.

[bloggs24]

im planning on having a go at this myself as the only diff place in town wont touch it because its irs, if you guys can do this in your back yard in 1 and half hours, i dont get what there deal is...

im after as much guidance as possible, id like to know what tools and sizes ill need, any diagrams or photos which can help out etc anything like that.

and where you have the stands, is that the safest place to have them as the only thing im a little uncomfortable with is getting under the car, however im not afraid to attempt this.

[InfernoSR]

I'd actually like to convert mine to a LSD setup... but have no idea what i need to get/look for :P

Well done otherwise

[Whoosha]

Originally Posted by bloggs24

im planning on having a go at this myself as the only diff place in town wont touch it because its irs, if you guys can do this in your back yard in 1 and half hours, i dont get what there deal is...

im after as much guidance as possible, id like to know what tools and sizes ill need, any diagrams or photos which can help out etc anything like that.

and where you have the stands, is that the safest place to have them as the only thing im a little uncomfortable with is getting under the car, however im not afraid to attempt this.

1st you will need is good socket set 1/2" drive, some sort of flat bar (tyer lever is perfect) or a large screw driver will do, 2 stands 1 trolly jack thats about all the Tools you will need but a mate to help will be a bounus as its easyer for one person to pull and another to lever the axel out. put the stands either side just foward off the lower control arm thingy(techo term :thebirds: ) see 1st picky. once you have the car on stands place the trolly jack under diff center and just take the weight up on it , laying under the car you can see all the nuts and bolts you need to remove .remembering to remove the lower control arms both sides so you can swing the rotors ext. out of the road ,this is when you need 2 people the axels will stay in the diff housing and need to be levered out at the same time the circlips are internal and will just pop out when levered out ,replacement is easy just the reverse with out the levering they will just click back in. once the axels are out and all the bolts from the cradel are removed just lower the housing on to the ground and go from there .. if you get stuck send me a PM and I willl see what I can sort out ..regards Whoosha

[bloggs24]

ok, im going to get into it on wednesday, im sure once im under the car ill have a clearer understanding of what im doing.

also from reading through the technical rescources page
http://www.fordforums.com.au/vbporta...article&id=159
When reasembling, is it important to have the right torque settings?

[RspecAU]

Originally Posted by bloggs24

ok, im going to get into it on wednesday, im sure once im under the car ill have a clearer understanding of what im doing.

also from reading through the technical rescources page
http://www.fordforums.com.au/vbporta...article&id=159
When reasembling, is it important to have the right torque settings?

Yes it is VERY important that u have the right torque settings other wise u'll end up with a diff center like what in the first pic