Advice on inspecting AU Ute

[Sam_Boss260]

I started a thread in the Ute and Panelvan Section, asking for opinions and experiences on a few ute variants, XF, XG, XH and AU.

Looks like I'm looking at a couple of AU utes in the next few days/ weeks. They are Series I (1999) and I think one is a Series II (2002).

From what I can gather on these forums, the common issues are the Ford rotors warping (standard thing) and there seems to be a few electrical gremlins in the power windows and central door locking.

Is there anything else to look at in particular to these series of utes? The ams of the utes that I'm looking at are all between 200,000kms and 250,000kms as this will be a third car just used for light domestic duties during a house reno, so trips to the dump, picking up occasional supplies, moving etc.

Thanks

[PridenJoy]

2002 is a series III. Nothing really major goes wrong with them, some egas one are a bit dodgy when not maintained so look out for that, other than that it's the usual stuff, make sure it has been well maintained (fluids replaced etc) and there are no leaks and you should be ok for many more kms of motroing.

[Sam_Boss260]

Thanks for that.

So what year is a Series II? Is there anything that gives away the difference between Series I, II, III ?

[raised by monkeys]

SII 2000 - 2001. SII & SIII are almost identical. Someone might be able to tell you the difference. If you can, check to see whether water has been getting in from the pedal box, as the spot welds are known to rust out. Check the door locking situation as the locking actuators often die. I hear the BA ones may fit?? (someone clarify). If you're buying a 5.0 also check for noises or difficulty starting, the cam synchronisers are poo. It is also common for the hood lining to sag. 5.0 sensors in the engine bay, the MAF and TB also need a bit of a clean.

Parts for the 5.0 are easy to get a hold of though being ford have used the same motor since the discovery of the wheel.

[Sam_Boss260]

It's a 6cyl

[Golioth]

I have minor (hopefully) rust build ups under the rubber door seals adjacent to the base of the seats. 2002 model - 140000kms
Cheers

[OffRoadFalcon]

Compliance plate is a good way to find out if it's a SI, II, or III. Provided you're looking at the car in person

[mik]

i would be having a really good look at the chassis for rust apart from the normal areas.... especially given your neck of the woods, i saw one a while ago for sale, it must have seen some floods or possibly even some salt water ? , the rails where like swiss cheese.

[gS-Gstar]

Speaking from experience with my AU, look for rust under the tub lining. I've got about a dinner plate size rust hole , still passes pink slip though because it's not structural.

[Jarry]

Originally Posted by Sam_Boss260

? Is there anything that gives away the difference between Series I, II, III ?

An AU1 should have a black background for the odometer. AU 2and3 should be silver. Subtle... But Ford make it a but harder to tell the yoots apart.

If you get a manual with a tow bar, make sure 5th gear isn't knackered from towing under load. Also check the firewall and pedal box for cracking from the heavy cable clutch.

If you get a one tonne manual, it might be fitted with 3.45 diff gears from the factory, I know the XH was.

If you get an auto with an external trans cooler already fitted, you've got a better chance of getting more miles out of the trans.

Good luck!!! But what could possibly go wrong... It's an AU!!!!