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#1 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 11
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Hi all
My wife has an '06 WQ Fiesta, purchased over a year ago. A few months back the car was overheating, after looking around we found a crack in the coolant expansion tank. We got a new tank and installed it with no more issues. For the last month or so the vehicle has been overheating again. It doesn't happen all the time, I could be driving to work on the highway with air-con on but when I come to a stop or slow down in traffic, the temperature gauge starts to creep up. I have played around with a whole heap of different scenarios and it all seems to come down to using the air conditioner. I have done a radiator flush I have a checked the oil and there is no milky deposits indicating coolant in the oil, the coolant doesn't appear to have any oil in it either. The radiator fan works fine, I think (it does come on when the temp starts creeping up but doest seem to make a difference) I have tested the radiator fan by disconnecting the temp sender. When this is done the fan comes on I have replaced the thermostat I don't think I'm losing any coolant but when the car is running the coolant can go from maximum to minimum and once I turn the car off the coolant will start flowing through the top overflow hose back into the expansion tank Most of the time when I start the engine and start accelerating I can hear what sounds like water gushing from the firewall on the passenger side, the floor is not wet. It sounds like it's going through a hose When it does overheat, the top radiator hose is hot and the bottom one is cool Any help would be much appreciated |
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#3 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,632
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Make sure you have bled the system properly! To Bleed System, follow below taken from the WQ Work Shop Manual:
For 1.3/1.4 or 1.6L.. Filling and Bleeding 1. Remove the radiator bleed plug (if equipped). 2. Fill the coolant expansion tank until coolant is expelled from the radiator bleed point or stabilizes at the MAX mark (whichever occurs first). 3. Install the radiator bleed plug (if equipped). 4. Fill the coolant expansion tank to the MAX mark (if necessary). 5. Start and run the engine at 3000 revolutions another two minutes.per minute (RPM) for two minutes. 6. Fill the coolant expansion tank completely. 7. Install the coolant expansion tank cap. 8. Start and run the engine at 3000 RPM for 9.Switch Engine Off For the 2.0L Filling and Bleeding 1. Fill the coolant expansion tank to the MAX temperature.mark. 2. NOTE: Do not allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature. Start the engine, run the engine briefly at 2500 revolutions per minute (RPM) for 10 seconds to prime the heater circuit. 3. Switch the engine off. 4. Fill the coolant expansion tank 15 mm over the MAX mark. 5. Install the coolant expansion tank cap. 6. Start the engine, maintain the engine speed at 2500 RPM for eight minutes or until the engine reaches normal operating 7. Maintain the engine speed at 2500 RPM for mark.three minutes after the engine has reached normal operating temperature. 8. Increase the engine speed to 4000 RPM for five seconds. 9. Decrease the engine speed to 2500 RPM for three minutes. 10. Increase the engine speed to 4000 RPM for five seconds. 11. Decrease the engine speed to 2500 RPM for three minutes. 12. Switch the engine off. 13. Check the cooling system for leaks. 14. Allow the engine to cool. 15. Fill the coolant expansion tank to the MAX |
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#4 | |||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 11
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Quote:
I have bled the cooling system. It all seems to revolve around the air conditioning. Could it be the radiator? |
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#5 | |||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 11
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Quote:
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#6 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 11
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Sooooo, while tinkering with it yesterday I had another look at the dipstick and oil fill port (been checking it regularly with no issue). Unfortunately yesterday there was milky oil present.
So I have a mechanic mate who will put if back together, I just need to get it to the point where it's cleaned and ready to go. Obviously there is the underlying issue that caused the overheating in the first place. This may be the old coolant expansion tank, it may not... I took off the water pump and that seems like the bearings have started to fail. There is a small hole built into the outside of the casing that goes into the bearings area. It appears coolant has been leaking through there. I guess I'll see how I go.... |
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#7 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Victoria
Posts: 877
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Have you done a compression check on all cylinders? I'd hate to say it but it could be the head gasket. A small head gasket leak can cause combustion gases to enter the cooling system, causing gas pockets that may intermittently prevent proper circulation of your coolant, causing an intermittent overheating problem. Not to mention the milky oil being the other obvious sign.
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#8 | |||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 11
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Quote:
I left out that minor detail (a bit fatigued at the moment ) yes, I have accepted the fact that the head gasket is shot |
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#9 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Victoria
Posts: 1,007
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Going to sound like a total novice. Perhaps there's a bubble in the coolant hose?
My WP had heaps of overheating problems - I ended up changing the radiator, hoses, thermostat, sealed the water pump (that was eventually replaced as well) only for the cause to be a bubble.
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