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#1 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Local Pub
Posts: 41
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Hey fellas, what's the best way to remove the lower control arm? I have disconnected everything apart from the two bolts holding the arm to the cross member... how do I go about removing the buggers, there is no room to remove them? do I remove the steering rack? any help or advise would be appreciated. Serge.
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#2 | |||
AU DIE HARD
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Between 2nd and 5th gear
Posts: 5,073
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They should come out with out removing the rack , but you will have to undo the sway bar mounts and hold the bar out of the way
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........Age and treachery will ALWAYS overcome youth and skill....... CORTINA 250 2V POWER soon to be AUXR8 Windsor pwrd .............WINDSOR WARLORD WHO CARRIES THE CLEVO MAFIA AND BROKEN BOSSES... ......................... Quote:
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#3 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Local Pub
Posts: 41
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hey whoosha the sway bar is on the ground but the bolt holding the control arm to the cross member will not clear the steering rack boot if that makes sense, I undid the two bolts holdind the cross member and lowered the cross member as far as she goes but still no luck? must be a trick to these buggers... any more advise would be awesome. Serge.
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#4 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,508
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Turn the rack (by the steering wheel) fully the other way and bolts will clear the boots
You DO NOT need to drop the alloy rear crossmember You DO need to drop the front steel crossmemeber to get the front part of the arm out |
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2 users like this post: |
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#5 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Near Wagga
Posts: 229
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If I grab a pair of these
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falc...ht_1486wt_1163 Will I need any special tools to swap out the old ones? |
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#6 | |||
Auto Nerd
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 808
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Quote:
If the stud spins on the balljoint you will need to use a box wrench and another wrench to hold the stud to loosen the nut. Remember to clean and grease the pivot bolts before re-assembly. Hope this helps. |
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This user likes this post: |
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#7 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Near Wagga
Posts: 229
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Great post, thanks!
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#8 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Near Wagga
Posts: 229
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I've almost got this job done, but having a hell of a time trying to get the ball joint stud to release from the control arm. Even banging on the end of it with a hammer to knock it out isn't working (it did on the first side I swapped)
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#9 | |||
Auto Nerd
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 808
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Quote:
Usually around 4 to 5 dead hammer blows on the spindle will free the balljoint. |
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#10 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 2,252
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even better ger a ball joint remover
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FIT-TOOLS...item3f1ebeb5e2 had one like this for 20 years works 100% no damage and no hammers, these are available in OZ just not through Ebay. one of the great tools. JP |
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#11 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Near Wagga
Posts: 229
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There's no thread on the end of the stud, and the nut it on just enough that I can work it off again if it gets a little crazy, but it's not releasing when I hit the spindle either...
I've put some spray down there and will leave it soak some more and try again. That tool would be perfect - if only it was here. Will head down the auto shop after lunch and see if they have one. |
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#12 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Central West NSW
Posts: 176
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Quote:
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#14 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Central West NSW
Posts: 176
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ya gotta do what you gotta do!
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