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#31 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 284
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Hi Sox,
thanks for the info, what was the height of the piece of 90mm you used? also if you can use 90 or 100mm does the top piece just sit on and you weld from underneith? Thanks |
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#32 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 780
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Quote:
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#33 | |||
Back in black
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Looking down on Sydney
Posts: 1,725
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Quote:
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Black Mac TE50 S3 NO: 106 Little Mac AU S2 XR8 Bite the snake before it bites you! ______________ _.__ /________...\ _.._(___\\___//___) .._..(O...\____/...O) |
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#34 | ||
RIP...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,524
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I'm beginning a search for old mounts from tomorrow, hopefully over the next couple of days I'll have a handful.
I'll also get the pieces cut and sorted, and I'll also order some shock rubbers. I also need to know who will want rubber shock bushes or Poly, as I'd like to supply all the necessary bits for a clean changeover. jeffb - I actually can't remember what height the tube was, as we were just cutting until it made the 2 halves sit in the jig right. I'll give you the exact sizes when I make it from the new material. The disk went inside the tube, and was welded from the top. To all - The subject of how to pay has also been raised. Paypal was mentioned. FWIW, I absolutely hate Paypal, and won't use it. I won't bore you with the details. My preferred payment is direct deposit into my account. I know some of you may have an issue with that and I understand, however all I can say is I've never had an issue with anyone to do with money, and anyone who I've dealt with here can chime in any time they like. I've also run a business for more than 16 years in a different industry and have never had any complaints to do with the money side of things. If you're still not convinced, perhaps we can have some one from AFF admin put the $$ in trust or some such thing. I don't know. I'll let you know how I go with mount hunting.
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. Oval Everywhere... |
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#35 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: searching for cubes
Posts: 6,672
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Mate direct deposit to your account is fine by me - you've been around the forums long enough for everyone here to be confident.
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#36 | ||
T3/Sprint8
![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 16,359
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Sox good on you mate - I have been watching and reading.
Count me in but you can leave me later sort out the guys who really need them sooner for I have my front and rear original legs off the car in the garage having got coil overs long ago. When your ready I'll be happy to meet somewhere near your area and hand over the rear assemblies for your top mount fix. I'll echo T3man's comments re banking no probs DD into your account when the time comes.
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Tickfords T3/TS50 '02 Sprint8 manual Sept 24 '16 Daily Macan GTS "Don't believe everything you read on the internet. Abraham Lincoln" |
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#37 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Perth NoR
Posts: 5,970
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I'm definitely interested, I'll try to track down some 2nd items to send as well as I dont have the facilities at home to do the swap over.
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#38 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 780
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SOX, as per PM - bank account transfer ok by me too.
Also, put me down for the poly bushes. cheers |
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#39 | ||
Back in black
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Looking down on Sydney
Posts: 1,725
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Direct Debit is the best mate. No dramas with you at all. Looking forward to them. Now about the rubber vs poly. Any issues with either and would poly be much better for any reason? Feedback please.
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Black Mac TE50 S3 NO: 106 Little Mac AU S2 XR8 Bite the snake before it bites you! ______________ _.__ /________...\ _.._(___\\___//___) .._..(O...\____/...O) |
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#40 | ||
RIP...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,524
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The hunt for mounts fell in a big heap, most wreckers don't have them, some can't identify them, and some won't separate them from the shock.
I managed to secure 1 pair, which I should have on Monday. Those who can send me a pair of old mounts, please PM me and I'll reply with a mailing address, or meeting point if you're local. I'm based in Windsor area, but my wife works at North Ryde if anyone wants to drop them off with her. As for the shock rubbers, I haven't actually tried the poly bushes myself, as I've been tied up with a few other things, but I imagine they'll tighten things up a frag like they do on any other shock using that type of mount. I'll try to change mine this week so I can let you know my thoughts. The price difference was $8 for rubber bushes and $18 for poly. If I can get enough mounts, I'll aim to do them later in the week or at the latest on the weekend, for a return the following Monday (30th).
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. Oval Everywhere... |
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#41 | ||
Afterburner + skids =
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Skidsville
Posts: 12,119
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100% interested in this, however I run the same issue as some others whereby I probably couldn't supply the swap over items in a timely fashion.
But yes, I want a set. Like, yesterday!
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Speed Kills. So buy an AU XR8 and live forever. Oo\===/oO |
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#42 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: In the Castle having a beer & a chill
Posts: 1,230
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I will take a pair thanks Rick,i will send my second one by post to join the first one i gave you if thats ok, can you pm me your postal address please.
PS your account details too. Steve
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T3 Hardcore |
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#43 | ||
T3/Sprint8
![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 16,359
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I can't see any good reason poly being a better option at this application.
Great at sway bar D's link pins pan hard rods but at the top of a strut ? forget it imo, unless its duro is as forgiving as rubber and its NVH rates as rubber whats the use for I haven't known poly getting near the points I mention above.
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Tickfords T3/TS50 '02 Sprint8 manual Sept 24 '16 Daily Macan GTS "Don't believe everything you read on the internet. Abraham Lincoln" |
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#44 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 4
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Hi all, I'm a first time user on AFF, but I have found this site very useful with where to go and what to do info.
I guess that my mounts will be the same as every one else as this is the first time that the shocks are being changed. I don't have a spare set but if you could PM a contact, it would be great as I am only at the other end of the Putty Road. Excellent work by all as I would have probably just changed my set with another new Ford set. |
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#45 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: out of sight from the kids & wife
Posts: 866
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sox what would the freight be for a set to adelaide. might be able to get a few sets from a wrecker here i know and send over if interested.
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#46 | ||
RIP...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,524
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TICK4D-TAS -
You mentioned you might have a set or 2 old mounts around. Does that mean you also want to buy a new pair of mine? FTE217 - I have swapped rubber shock bushes with poly in the past on older Falcons and the difference was subtle, but noticeable. I suspect the differences would be similar on the IRS, so for someone who doesn't mind a frag more NVH, the small benefit may be worth it. Reaper8 - I can't see freight being any more than $20 for regular (slow) mail. If you can source some from your local wrecker, that would be fantastic. As soon as you do, let me know the cost to 2756. The wreckers I spoke to said $50 (if they had them), and the one I managed to get a set from gave me the whole strut (mount, spring, and shock) for $50pr. He did say he normally charges $80 (or maybe $100?) for that assembly, but he gave this lot for the $50 to get me out of trouble. In any case, I don't see any reason why we should pay any more than $50 for a flogged out mount. They should be free, or maybe $10 at the most, but that's wreckers for you. Here's the updated list, let me know if you've been missed or want to be taken off. Considering the numbers are already over 10, I'm going to make as many as I can and see how we go. Supply whole unit - 1 - Brooksby88 - 1 2 - T3man - 1 3 - Ride - 1 4 - PROBLM - 1 5 - TS50 - 1 6 - DaveTE - 1 7 - Myts50 - 1 8 - tkfd - 1 9 - BOTTLEDUP - 1 10 - PEUTY - 1 11 - T3-TS50 - 1 12 - Stonepony - 1 Later - FTE217 - 1 DIY - 1 - jeffb 2 - Reaper8 BTW, thank you all for your trust in the money side of things, it makes it quicker and easier to track as well. PM's should be sent to some of you in the next hour or so.
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. Oval Everywhere... |
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#47 | ||
Afterburner + skids =
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Skidsville
Posts: 12,119
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Still very keen. I really couldn't justify spending the money that Ford wanted only to have them fail sooner rather than later.
Can I pay you the money now?
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Speed Kills. So buy an AU XR8 and live forever. Oo\===/oO |
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#48 | ||
Club Moderator
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Tas
Posts: 3,744
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I had a hunt around the garage on the weekend, i have the originals out of the TS that i can send up and I am a definate for a set of your manufactured ones.
I will continue with my cleanup this weeked, i think i have the old XR8 ones, if i can find them that will be a spare pair that i will donate to the cause. |
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#49 | ||
RIP...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,524
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Today I've ordered rubbers and a few poly bushes.
The flat disk where the shock mounts to is being laser cut as we speak. I purchased the tube. I'll bang as many as I can together over this long weekend, ready for sending on Monday. To the DIY guys - As soon as I can confirm the tube length, I'll pass that on. I'll supply all the required dimensions. I can also supply just those pieces if you want, you can then still do the labour on your own. It will save you farting around with a jig and trying to get the overall height spot on.
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#50 | ||
RIP...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,524
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Thanks for all the offers to already pay for these, it is certainly appreciated, however I'd rather not accept any money just yet.
So far everything is rolling along smoothly, and it's certainly not a complex exercise, however I just don't feel comfortable taking money from you if I may be still a week away from supplying you anything. Don't worry, I'll let you know as soon as I need money, and it will only be when I have several of these to go out, and I can whip new ones up quickly as old ones come back. As you can see, I have at least 12 pairs to do tight now, which is easy enough, but I need old mounts to do it. At present, it looks like I may only have 3 old pairs for the weekend. Because of this, it may go a little slower than anticipated. To get it rolling, and knowing the numbers are there, I will just whip them up as needed.
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#51 | ||
Club Moderator
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Tas
Posts: 3,744
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Sox, I have doug through the garage and i have 2 sets of old ones here. PM me your address.
I will use one set for you to modify for me, and the second set i will donate to the cause. Cheers, Tim |
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#52 | |||
RIP...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,524
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Quote:
Anyway, PM just sent now.
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. Oval Everywhere... |
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#53 | ||
Walking with God
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 7,321
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I am more than happy to vouch for Sox, committed to the AU and I've dealt with him before when he got me out of trouble and supplied me an AU2 manual computer when I did my conversion.
JC and Ragtop have also had excellent dealings with him too and met him in person. They couldn't speak highly enough of him. GK
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2009 Mondeo Zetec TDCi - Moondust Silver 2015 Kia Sorento Platinum - Snow White Pearl 2001 Ducati Monster 900Sie - Red Now gone! 1999 AU1 Futura Wagon - Sparkling Burgundy On LPG Want a Full Life? John 10:10 |
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#54 | ||
RIP...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,524
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I've just ran into my first, very minor hiccup.
The supplied bushes, which I specified as upper shock mount for AU live axle are wrong. The Nolathane part number (poly) - 43023, and Kelpro part number (rubber) - 23023, have an incorrect boss size of ~14mm. They have the same listing for all E series Falcons too. Someone has made a big stuff up. I may need to go genuine Ford for the rubber ones, and for Poly it looks like the Superpro ones are on the money, with a 20mm boss. Part number - SPF0204K. GK - Thanks for the kind words, the cheque is in the mail. ![]()
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. Oval Everywhere... |
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#55 | ||
Sick Puppy
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,963
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Very very interested in this Sox. Kudos needs to go to you for coming up with this solution.
We wont be after any for a bit yet so if we can get some in a couple of months after we get over the car purchase etc we will put our hands up. |
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#56 | ||
RIP...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,524
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I sorted the bush problem out today, they are an off the shelf item, but strangely enough not what they seem.
Kelpro rubber bushes are not correct if using the AU live axle part number. Nolathane is also wrong. Kelpro part number #23036 appear to be the correct units for rubber, and Superpro #SPF2937k for poly. The Kelpro are listed as upper shock bushes for all leaf spring rears PRE AU, so basically all X series with leaves. I'll confirm the above on Monday when I have them all in my hands. I'll also tackle 2 pairs of mounts tomorrow, with them going to a home on Monday. This will take a little longer than expected, as only 2 pairs came in.
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#57 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 4
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Hi Sox,
I can't send a PM as my post count is not high enough, so I'm sending this message as a post. I will be travelling through your way on Sunday and back Tuesday. Could you please send a PM with a contact number and we may be able to arrange to meet and swap. Cheers |
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#58 | |||
RIP...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,524
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Quote:
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. Oval Everywhere... |
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#59 | ||
RIP...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,524
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2 pairs were made this past weekend, and 2 pairs have gone out the door.
I've left the job of sourcing bushes up to you guys, as it's been a bit of a headache sourcing the correct ones, and they're not as cheap as I first thought. I can now confirm that the part numbers are as follows - Superpro poly bushes - SPF0204K ~$30. Kelpro rubber bushes - 23036 ~$12. Making the 2 pairs took a fair bit longer as because I increased the tube size, I needed to chamfer more from the disk in the lathe. My trusty old welder has also struggling to keep up, with only just enough current delivery, but not on a high enough duty cycle... ...So I ordered a suitable MIG welder today, which will do the job comfortably and faster. So keep the bushes coming guys, so I can try and make more at once. At this rate, it looks like I'll probably only be able to make 2-3 pairs once a week or so.
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#60 | ||
RIP...
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,524
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For the DIY guys.
The first thing you'll need to do is work out whether you have the facility to melt all the rubber from the entire unit. If you can't do that safely, then it's probably not a good idea to do it yourself. Anyway, let's assume you can. You can usually just bash the bottom spring saddle section from the main body with a rubber hammer, or stick it in a vice and yank/lever it off with some levers. The spring saddle can be left aside for the moment, we'll call this piece number 4. With the rubber removed from the main section, you will be left with 3 pieces. 1 - The upper section which bolts to the cars subframe. 2 - The intermediate section which locates the aluminium sleeve, and allows the spring saddle to attach. 3 - The aluminium sleeve which locates the shaft of the shock absorber. You only re-use number 1, the upper section - and number 4, the spring saddle. Number 2 and 3 are not used. You then need two additional pieces to finish the puzzle. A mild steel disk, and tube. The disk measurements are - Thickness - 6mm OD - 87.5mm Hole ID - 21mm The outer edge has a 60deg chamfer. The hole needs minor rounding of the sharp edges with a file or burr, so it won't cut into the bushes. The tube measurements are - ID - 93.7mm OD - 101.4mm Length - 18mm Wall thickness - 3.8mm (These measurements are exact to 0.1mm, however the tube was purchased as 4mm wall thickness and 90mm nominal bore). The disk needs to be placed into the underside of the upper section, with the chamfer side up. The placement of this section is critical as it needs to be central and parallel with the top face of the upper mount. Note, when I say top face, I do not mean the flange which mounts to the subframe, I mean the smaller cup section where the shock comes through. Once positioned, this can then be fully welded from the underside. Welding from the top side is not necessary. You can then position the tube to the underside of the top mount, again, making sure it is central and parallel with the top cup face. This can also be fully welded, inside and out. Lastly, the spring saddle can be positioned to the tube, this is very easy as the OD's of each piece is almost identical. At this point you can double check to to make sure the top face is central and parallel with the bottom spring saddle face. This can then be welded on the outside. Obviously I thoroughly cleaned mine with wire brush and thinners and then painted. To everyone - For final assembly, you will need the bushes mentioned in my last post, either poly or rubber. When assembling the strut, the pieces go as follows - 1 - Original shock 2 - Original bump rubber 3 - Original metal cup 4 - New rubber or poly bush (with boss facing up) 5 - New re-manufactured shock mount 6 - New rubber or poly bush (with boss facing down) 7 - Original Metal wave washer 8 - Original lock nut That's it. Fire away with questions.
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. Oval Everywhere... Last edited by Sox; 30-01-2012 at 08:56 PM. |
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