2001 AUII ute immobilizer problems

[FuriousFord]

Originally Posted by foxtrot3

Hi. In that case fit another fuse box. Cheers MD

Am I able to use the one out of the 1999 AUI ute (build date:SEP99)??? I got here or the 2000 AUII sedan here too (build date:JUN00).

[foxtrot3]

Hi. It should be the same, just be very careful if you change any relays and when you fit the plugs that you dont force any of the terminals into the fusebox. As you unplug the old fusebox make sure that all the pins that stick up into the plugs on the back are not bent over or pushed down into the body of the fusebox. Cheers MD

[FuriousFord]

Originally Posted by foxtrot3

Hi. It should be the same, just be very careful if you change any relays and when you fit the plugs that you dont force any of the terminals into the fusebox. As you unplug the old fusebox make sure that all the pins that stick up into the plugs on the back are not bent over or pushed down into the body of the fusebox. Cheers MD

Installed now. Only difference is different relays and other ute had power windows and ABS. Waiting for further instructions before inserting key and turning to on/acc position.

[11ford11]

do you have power at fuse 11
does interior light work
turn ignition reds on and check smart shield light
if it turns off try to start

[FuriousFord]

Originally Posted by 11ford11

do you have power at fuse 11
does interior light work
turn ignition reds on and check smart shield light
if it turns off try to start

No interior light or key entry light on ignition and no power to fuse 11 using test light with ignition in off position.

[aussiblue]

Unplug the connector at the back of the fuse box with that yellow back wire and check for power on the plug terminal where that wire terminates in the harness plug.

[FuriousFord]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

Unplug the connector at the back of the fuse box with that yellow back wire and check for power on the plug terminal where that wire terminates in the harness plug.

Checked the 3 yellow ones and have power after testing. Door light on dash alight, but still no interior light or key entry light.

[aussiblue]

If you have a multimeter use the old fuse panel you removed to double check which wire powers fuse 11 by finding where you have continuity between the power supply clip end of the fuse holder and a socket pin for the harness sockets on the rear of the panel.

[aussiblue]

Also, as I said before, check/swap the Relay 5 the 40Amp Battery Relay as it feeds Fuse 11 via a black wire (Not Yellow) and connector 157 (C-157) if you look at Section A Power Distribution in the Wiring Diagram at http://fordforums.com.au/wsm/wire/aubx/Part%2024-5.html It labelled BK-O so I assume it actually black with an orange trace.

[aussiblue]

It's very confusing as Section A Power Distribution in the Wiring Diagram seems to conflict with Section H -1 Courtesy Light Illumination which shows it being fed by a Yellow-Black wire via the BCM. Even more reason to trace the power sources to the fuses using a multimeter and the old fuse box.

[foxtrot3]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

Also, as I said before, check/swap the Relay 5 the 40Amp Battery Relay as it feeds Fuse 11 via a black wire (Not Yellow) and connector 157 (C-157) if you look at Section A Power Distribution in the Wiring Diagram at http://fordforums.com.au/wsm/wire/aubx/Part%2024-5.html It labelled BK-O so I assume it actually black with an orange trace.

Hi. There is NO 40 amp battery relay, it is a MAIN FUSE and it seems to be OK as there is power on all 3 pins of connector C157. The wiring colors seem to change with build date and engine sizes. Cheers MD

[11ford11]

Are all wires connected at battery positive terminal

[aussiblue]

I would still check the 40 amp main fuse.

[aussiblue]

The wiring colors seem to change with build date and engine sizes. Cheers MD

The also change a bit on the utes and vans seemingly often using a minor adapted variant of the previous models loom.

[foxtrot3]

Originally Posted by FuriousFord

No interior light or key entry light on ignition and no power to fuse 11 using test light with ignition in off position.

Hi. How are you checking for power at the fuse? by touching 1 metal contact in the top of the fuse and earth or checking between the 2 metal contacts? Cheers MD

[foxtrot3]

Hi. Try checking for power on the black/pink wire naer the middle of the green plug and the 2 yellow black wires in the gray plug beside it. Cheers MD

[undertow]

It's not uncommon for smartshield AUs to forget the keys if they're left sitting for a while and/or the battery goes flat. Shouldn't happen but it does - flash memory can get corrupted if unpowered for a while. A parameter reset usually fixes it. You need two keys and the right tools (can use Forscan on laptop + cheap ELM327 module).

It does sound like there might be another issue here but in post 55 you wrote:

Leaving battery disconnected for over 2 hours, then after reconnecting it I left the key in the on (accessory) position for 61 minutes whilst the battery was on charge. The interior light was on during this period of time.

So the interior light was working at this point, after disconnecting the battery? Keep in mind the AU BEM will turn off all the interior lighting after 20 minutes or so with ignition off to avoid draining the battery. There's more to it than just the door switches.

[FuriousFord]

Originally Posted by foxtrot3

Hi. How are you checking for power at the fuse? by touching 1 metal contact in the top of the fuse and earth or checking between the 2 metal contacts? Cheers MD

Checking between two metal contacts in the fuse slot.

[lumen8]

Originally Posted by FuriousFord

Checking between two metal contacts in the fuse slot.

You need to do the other thing foxtrot3 said, one side on the metal fuse contact and one to an earth point on the vehicle (the door latch bolt near the fuse box usually works for me)

You dont even need to pull the fuses if your test light probe is pointy enough, just touch it onto the bare part of the fuse on one side of it (if its not blown, doesnt matter which side of the fuse)

[FuriousFord]

Sorry guys, but I'm not going to be able to get to the ute for a couple of weeks now as I had to leave home for a 2 week photo/video shoot for work. Was hoping to resolve the issue before I left as I need the ute for work, but had to make alternative travel arrangements.

I spoke to a auto-elec from Ford today, and he said that if I dropped or wet the key the chip may have been damaged. I told him that the key was neither dropped or got wet since the last time the ute started. I don't believe I have an issue with the key, as I believe it has something more to do with wiring/circuits. After explaining to him that I had an issue with the park lights and pulled the headlights prior to immobilizer issue, he said to recheck the yellow plug/wire behind the drivers side headlight as I may have disturbed/dislodged the plug. Apparently, this could possibly also upset the circuits causing an issue with the immobilizer issue. He also said to test the yellow wiring for connectivity inside the kick panels on both driver and passenger foot wells. He also mentioned to check plugs on BEM, due to not having interior light and demister re fuses 8, 10 & 11.

I seriously believe it is not a key issue, but more or less something to do with the wiring and circuitry. If key is still good, then they will be able to reprogram the key and reproduce a spare. If not, then I would need to get a working replacement key, barrel, BEM, ECU, door lock, etc.

Not giving up and gonna sort this issue one way or another!!! Had to laugh when the workshop manual I ordered online turned up today before I left. Got other replacement parts on order too, so I'm honestly going to get to this bloody ute going again before I go to my grave!!! Was temped to put the old VN back on the road instead, but need the ute for work and my oversized dog so I'm just going to persevere until it's mobile again. Thanks for all the help you guys too. Much appreciated!!!

[aussiblue]

Hi. How are you checking for power at the fuse? by touching 1 metal contact in the top of the fuse and earth or checking between the 2 metal contacts?

I wish that question was asked earlier; given the answer it may have saved a lot of time.

The OP needs to watch this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKgmIcmp7eo and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hlna...annel=2CarPros and some other videos on using automotive test lights and multimeters if he has one.

[undertow]

Yep need to test the fuses correctly as above. May just need a parameter reset.

BTW no need to replace the whole lot (key, BEM, column and door locks and ECU) if the key is bad or BEM is bad. New keys can be trained to used BEM, and BEM and ECU can be paired. This is done in the parameter reset. Ford dealer can definately do this, as can any decent auto locksmith. You can DIY it too now with Forscan.

It would be worth getting youself a transponder key blank on ebay ($15), then take it to any corner store locksmith to get the physical cutting done. Then you can get it programmed to the car later if it ends up needing a parameter reset or replacement BEM.

Pretty rare for keys to go bad - the transponder is a passive, fully encapsulated chip.

[aussiblue]

I believe the OP said he only got one key with the car. Not blaming the OP for not testing the fuse correctly but we always have the dilemma on the forum of either:

a) Not asking the simple questions and presuming people are doing what me may see as obvious then finding we should have asked; or
b) Insulting people unintentionally when you do ask these sort of questions.

[foxtrot3]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

I wish that question was asked earlier; given the answer it may have saved a lot of time.

The OP needs to watch this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKgmIcmp7eo and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hlna...annel=2CarPros and some other videos on using automotive test lights and multimeters if he has one.

Hi. I wish I had asked it earlier myself, now starting to think problems with BEM, either plugs or dry joints on circuit board. A 2 week break will give us all a rest from this one. Cheers MD

[FuriousFord]

My bad!!! Sorry for the earlier misunderstandings, but like I said I'm no good when it comes to auto electronics and only good with mechanical hands on repairs and maintenance. Anyways I am going to try resolve this issue myself and hopefully I will be able to better understand the basics of auto electrics. I now have a multi-meter, but to be honest I have no idea how to use it. My daughter has also just started a new job with BHP as an apprentice auto-electrician, so she may be able to assist in future dilemmas.

Taking the ute to Ford in Rockhampton is going to be too expensive as I'll need to arrange a tow in addition to any repairs, so I am going to attempt to fix this myself. I have downloaded the FordScan application and have ordered a fuse tester to test fuses properly. Before I order the USB ELM327, which one is better and why? The ELM327 with MS-CAN HS-CAN or the one without???

With regards to getting another transponder or two, is it better to get a spare key with the remote or not??? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-AU2...YAAOSwFxBXHE6S

[mad2]

any key you buy make sure it is the correct one & comes with the 'chip' fitted other wise it may not work.

[undertow]

That key will do the job. Remote doesn't hurt but you don't need it - it operates completely seperately from the key transponder.

The standard ELM327 USB should work, I have one link this
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/USB-ELM3...lar!3084!AU!-1

The ebay cheapies can be a bit of a crapshoot though, i bought two a couple of years ago and one was wired up incorrectly inside

[FuriousFord]

Okay guys, I'm finally home and ready to have another crack at trying to sort out the Smartshield immobilizer problem on the ute.

I now have a Narva Blade Fuse Electronic Tester, Obdlink Ex Forscan Obd Adapter (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/184662872797), a new test light (as I couldn't find the old one), an Maw Ellery Workshop Manual (hardcopy) and have downloaded the Forscan application for Windows (with the extended licence activated).

Before I commence, I am going to reinstall the original interior fuse panel, relays and fuses (that was replaced earlier) to retest fuses for power supply as I was testing fuses incorrectly previously, due to my incompetence regarding auto-electrics.

I will follow previous instructions to-date to try isolate any issues that may have been overlooked previously.

Once I have completed the above I will repost any results, but will need assistance with resetting the parameters on the BEM using Forscan in an effort to resolve immobilzer issue.

[FuriousFord]

I have now reinstalled the original interior fuse panel and checked all fuses using the fuse tester with the ignition in the on/acc position. After testing, each and every fuse has power supply. However, I still have no interior light or key entry light given the fuses are testing positive.


Before I perform the diagnostics test using FORScan, what is the procedure for performing the test. I cannot find any instructions on how to perform the test, so correct me please if the following is not the step-by-step diagnostics procedure.


1. Open FORScan app on laptop.
2. Connect laptop to ute using OBDlink cable.
3. Turn key to on/acc position to perform diagnostics test.
4. Check FORScan app for DTC code/s.
5. If DTC code/s are present, use DTCDecode to determine what the codes are.


Once I have performed initial diagnostics test, I will take a screenshot of the results and upload them here.

[FuriousFord]

After again downloading the latest version of FORScan (version:2.3.40 beta) and downloading the software and driver for the OBDlink EX cable, I was able to run a diagnostics test on the ute (as pictured).


FORScan detected that my battery level was low, so now the battery is going to be fully charged again overnight before running another diag test in the morning.


Will upload another screenshot after performing another test in the morning.