Ticking noise from behind left lamp.

[kiwi]

I've got a AUII Fairmont ghia which has amongst other problems started making a loud ticking/knocking noise from a rectangular black box right behind the left head light. What is this box and is it a case of tweaking something or bin it and get a new one.
Don't read the sticky titled "Common Problems with the AU??". I had a great car except for the miss at 4000rpm in first, then I read that forum. Now I have a broken LCD screen ($829.47 NZ), tops of the rear struts are slopped out ($202.27 and $187.71NZ), and a ticking noise which is briefly mentioned but no cure given. All this within 2 weeks of reading that thread, you've been warned.
Ford wont do the work under warranty cause its over 3 years old, but has only travelled 58 000kms, They may pay half the parts cost occasionly in cases like this, but I will wait and see. (No gruge just the facts)

[StAndArdAU]

bad luck dude... The black box behind my left head light is the air box... or is there something smaller? What did you do to break your LCD?

[kiwi]

Some pics of the box.

[fairmont1998]

That looks like the charcoal canister and the ticking is most likely the purge solenoid opening and closing.

[kiwi]

Thanks fairmont1998, does anyone know if it can be replaced or are they sealed units.

[JC]

Is it an 8? If so, it is the purge solenoid vibrating. I had mine fixed a while ago, but the fix is only good for a few months. Just tell them about it at the next service and they can make the noise "disappear" - for a while anyway.

If it's a 6, then FIIK.

[The Dok]

: Hey Kiwi, had some real bad luck there. With regards to the LCD screen,if you mean climate control unit, (mine's a series 1 f/mont, orange display) it started to "fade" then l lost 1/2 my numerals. Did some research & through a business associate had only my LCD screen replaced (common problem apparently) all up $150 with warranty, been ok for @1yr now. Anyhoo, whilst trawling a ford forum recently l came across a company here in Melbourne who do repairs, apparently you remove the unit & post it to them, may be worth looking around but l wouldn't pay what Ford are asking. l believe series 2/3 are the same problem/price. easy to remove, (screw behind clock ring) but MUST be reprogrammed when reinstalled, also easy when u know someone who's done it before. Lemme know if ya need any assistance, only too happy to help. Breast of luck!!!!

[Steve_T]

Yeah that ticking would be the purge solenoid. To confirm, if you look behind the box where the hoses go into it you'll see the solenoid fitted in one of the hoses. Put your finger on it and you'll feel the ticking.

This is a normal thing. The ticking does not mean there is any problem with it. It's just that the internal 'sound insulation' in the solenoid wears out after a while. So the only problem is the annoying ticking noise. If you can live with that then just don't worry about it.

If you wanna eliminate the noise, usually it's caused by the fact that the solenoid and/or hoses it's attached to are contacting the wheel arch splash shield or similar and thus the noise is getting transmitted through the vehicle. In mine I just got some adhesive-backed d-section hollow rubber sealing strip and stuck some pieces of that on the solenoid and hoses to insulate them where they touch things. That basically eliminated the noise, but it will wear out over time still.

Else you can replace the solenoid of course but the genuine ones will always go the same way after a while. Maybe you could find a better and/or cheaper aftermarket solenoid and fit it up yourself - it's only a basic 12v solenoid valve.

Steve.

[kiwi]

It is a V8, glad to here its nothing terminal but there's no way I can put up with that noise. Its like having a stone stuck in your tyre everywhere you go. Bit shameful at 50 kms around town to. Soon as the car gets home I will have another look. Thanks all.

[kiwi]

Does anyone in NZ know where I can get an aftermarket purge solenoid from. Ford want $225.00, and teh sales rep at Repco said they didn't stock them. Going to put some thick oil in it as suggested by one of the Ford mechanics. He said it will quieten it down a bit.
What does all this do. (Charcoal cannister). Can it be removed, I very much doubt this but you never now your luck.

[Au2falcons]

Hey Kiwi, don't want be rude but sounds like the ford guys were having you on! Putting thicker oil in it would quieten down a ticking noise in the motor not the purge solenoid!!! The charcoal canister absorbs fuel vapour, i believe it would be illegal to run it without as the vapour would end up in the atmosphere, someone correct me if i'm wrong

[crakrz]

As Steve T said, it is just the solenoid hitting against the inner wheel arch. Fixed mine by cable tie and piece of foam, car wash sponge to be precise.

[Steve_T]

Yeah, as Au2falcons said, the canister absorbs fuel vapour vented from the tank when it's hot to stop it getting out to atmosphere and poluting it. The solenoid pulses to let this absorbed vapour be sucked into the engine intake and be 're-burnt' when engine is cruising/idling etc. The duty cycle of the solenoid controls how much fuel vapour is being let into the engine. Known as an evaporative emmissions control system it certainly would be illegal to remove and there's no good reason to.

Try a place which sells pneumatic systems or stuff like that, maybe even a truck parts place as trucks use pneumatic systems and probably have solenoid valves used to release air pressure etc. All you need is a 12v solenoid with a built in valve which it opens when energized. Only has to be able to handle engine vacuum (bugger-all - no more than 30inhg max). ARB air-lockers use similar solenoids and car air-bag suspension systems do also, so anywhere that sells those sorta parts. Just remember it cycles the solenoid at up to 10hz, some solenoids are probably gonna be noisy and some quiet esp. at that duty cycle. Just have to look at a few.

Easy way it still just pad it up I reckon. Sponge like crakrz used would work well I think. Might be harder than I think to find a 'quiet' solenoid (?)

[au-steve]

Try a place which sells pneumatic systems or stuff like that, maybe even a truck parts place as trucks use pneumatic systems and probably have solenoid valves used to release air pressure etc. All you need is a 12v solenoid with a built in valve which it opens when energized. Only has to be able to handle engine vacuum (bugger-all - no more than 30inhg max). ARB air-lockers use similar solenoids and car air-bag suspension systems do also, so anywhere that sells those sorta parts. Just remember it cycles the solenoid at up to 10hz, some solenoids are probably gonna be noisy and some quiet esp. at that duty cycle. Just have to look at a few.

lol, why not just buy a new car?

[kiwi]

Cheers for the replies people, Haven't oiled the solenoid yet because I was a little sceptical. Having said that he did say "quieten it down a bit" so it was the never the final fix. The tying back of the lines has helped a bit to, no knock now. But still sounds like theres a stone stuck in the tyre when the motor is running. Only audible outside the car or with the windows cracked slightly.

au-steve, I did just buy a new car, I can't help it, you've pushed me over the edge, I'm going to swear, Never had such probs with the other model of car I used to drive. (I couldn't say it here)

I've also tried to find aftermarket rear strut tops, but they dont seem to exist, so looks like it will be 400 bucks to Henry. Have they rectified the problem with the new ones or can I expect to do this again in another 50000kms.

Off to find a solenoid, Thanks again.

[4.9 EF Futura]

Id try getting in touch with wreckers... see if they cant supply one cheaper. Bit of a specialty item so i'm not suprised that repco werent able to help. Seems like you're new to these cars so always remember that ford spares is a last resort (unless money is not an issue for you....).

But yeah, before doing that, i'd go with steve's suggestions and try insulating the thing itself.

Agreed removing is not an option... raw fuel vapours are something like 10 times worse than driving the car without a catalytic converter... they're bad, mmkay?

[kiwi]

If money wasn't an issue I'd be driving a viper, just love the rawness.

[buickman]

On the Climate Control panel the guy that fixed mine is in Moorabbin Vic . Cost was $50. I think he has a kit now that you can do the repair yourself at a fraction of what Ford wants. He did it in about 1/2 hour and its a permanate fix. Mine was done nearly two years ago.

http://www.geocities.com/liquidxtal/index.html

buickman