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Old 27-02-2008, 09:13 PM   #1
sanjay
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Default Replace steering wheel on AU Falcon?

hey guys

apologies in advance but i searched and searched and couldnt find anything...its like its assumed knowledge how to replace the steering wheel in a falcon on here. :p

basically my AU XR6 has the top part of the leather wheel fraying badly, i would like to replace the entire wheel with another one off ebay (or is it cheaper to get new leather put on the entire wheel? i cant see how they would repair just that bit at the top) - but how the hell do i go about taking the wheel surround off and putting the new one on? i dont want to start pulling at my wheel aimlessly, as i'll probably end up just breaking something.

looking at getting a wheel like this: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ford-EF-EL-AU...QQcmdZViewItem which seems to fit under the airbag somehow.

if theres any obvious threads that ive missed and you could link me to them, i would really appreciate it. :(

oh and another thing, what is the deal with replacement keys for the series 1 AU? do they have an immobiliser chip in them? if not, how does the immobiliser work on an AU series 1? or is there just no immobiliser at all...

...if i buy a blank key on ebay, i'll have to take it to get cut and then to the dealer to get programmed, correct?


Last edited by sanjay; 27-02-2008 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 27-02-2008, 09:22 PM   #2
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The Momo Wheels as pictured in your link fit. Easey to replace, but you can get them a bit cheaper then that. Someone will be here to sell you one soon.
Wait for it...............
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Old 27-02-2008, 09:25 PM   #3
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Hey sanjay, a steering wheel swap is pretty straightforward. Disconnect your battery for 5 mins to disarm the airbag system. on either side of the back surround you will see 2 cover plugs, remove these and then you need a special tool like a star key that you could pick up from a tool supplier and undo the 2 retaining bolts that hold the airbag unit in place. move the airbag back towards you and disconnect the coloured wiring. you now have access to the main wheel retaining bolt. another star key to undo this and your wheel will be off. i normally leave this bolt in a couple of threads so when i am pulling on the steering wheel and it comes free of the splines it doesnt whale you in the face! to refit just reverse of these instructions
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Old 27-02-2008, 09:26 PM   #4
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Disconnect batteries earth first (ALWAYS) Before removing airbag then loosen the steering wheel nut a couple of turn ( not all the way) and work the steering wheel loose pulling alternatly on the left and right o(3 o'clock and 9 o'clock) should pop straight off

Feel free to ask question as i am a ford mechanic
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Old 27-02-2008, 09:29 PM   #5
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ah no worries, looks to be pretty straightforward. any responses on my key concern? (tee hee :P)

as id be interested to know how the immobiliser in the AU1 works if theres no transponder chip in the key itself (seeing as my AU didnt come with a remote, the immobiliser cant be activated by that either).

EDIT - and i may as well copy it into this thread as more people may see it

will a keyless entry remotethat looks like this one work with my series 1 AU falcon? or do i need to get the old school looking one like this: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-SMARTLOC...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 27-02-2008, 10:06 PM   #6
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PM sent....re: s/wheel
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Old 27-02-2008, 10:12 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanjay
ah no worries, looks to be pretty straightforward. any responses on my key concern? (tee hee :P)

as id be interested to know how the immobiliser in the AU1 works if theres no transponder chip in the key itself (seeing as my AU didnt come with a remote, the immobiliser cant be activated by that either).

EDIT - and i may as well copy it into this thread as more people may see it

will a keyless entry remotethat looks like this one work with my series 1 AU falcon? or do i need to get the old school looking one like this: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-SMARTLOC...QQcmdZViewItem
second one is the one you need
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Old 27-02-2008, 10:31 PM   #8
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Smartlock-equipped AU1's (to Apr 99) have no transponder but Smartshield-equipped ones (from May 99) do. If your build date is around those months it'd be best to quote your VIN to a dealer to find out which key you need.
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Old 28-02-2008, 01:34 AM   #9
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ah no worries, will have to check when mine was made (fairly sure its a 1998 model so it will need the crappy rectangular remote and normal key cut to size) - if its the former, and just needs the correctly cut key, and not the transponder, how does the factory immobiliser work with those series 1 AU falcons?
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Old 28-02-2008, 10:14 PM   #10
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Tool Needed To Remove Steering Wheel Is A 5 Sided Star Bit Not 6 Sided.good Luck.
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Old 06-03-2008, 12:19 AM   #11
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can anyone tell me where im meant to get one of these 5 sided star bits?

and if i remove my battery terminals, the stereo is going to ask me for a code when i connect it back up, isnt it (its an AU2 stereo for some reason, and chances of me getting the code for it are zilch since it isnt factory)
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Old 06-03-2008, 12:57 AM   #12
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A Ford dealer will sell you the airbag removal bit... removing your arm & leg in the process LOL.

Other than that, the Vics recommend Bursons... they supply to Super Cheap as well. I had no luck at Repco, perhaps a tool supplier like Blackwoods would have them? You're after a 5-point Secure Torx bit, I'm just not sure of the size, I think it's around T30. I've seen the precise spec posted up here before... maybe a search on "airbag tool" might turn it up?
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Old 06-03-2008, 12:59 AM   #13
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I searched around town here and couldn't find anyone selling the 5 sided torx bit. I (like many others on here) customised a flat blade screw driver (basically cut a groove up the middle to clear the pin in the middle of the bolt) and it worked fine.
If you don't know the stereo code, sooner or later your battery is going to need to be disconnected for some reason so you're going to need the code anyway even if you don't do this particular job... Ford can find out the codes for them apparently - according the the local dealer here. I bought a full interior from a wrecker and didn't get the VIN number off the car it came from - waiting on the wrecker to send me the number, but ford said they can find the code without the VIN, its just more difficult for them.
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:23 AM   #14
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I bought a set off 3/8 drive torx bits set from Supercheap a while back for about $20 which includes the right size bits for the steering wheel and the seat bolts.
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:31 AM   #15
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Bits required to remove the air bag are sold at Repco.
ABW part no.70930
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:44 AM   #16
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Wish I'd known that when I got mine. I went to the main branch in Newcastle rather than one of the suburban ones, as it had the service workshop nearby. I thought it would have the best range of tools. I bought a set of 6-pointed Secure Torx bits, which I've kept as I had none before. The bloke was baffled though when I came back from the carpark asking about 5-pointed bits after I tried to check the bit size against the airbag bolts. He couldn't find anything on the computer. That part # would have been handy :(

Maybe info like that should be in a sticky - with info about special tools & techniques needed to do things on the AU... like using a pair of 3mm drill bits to get the stereo out...
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:50 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sly
Wish I'd known that when I got mine. I went to the main branch in Newcastle rather than one of the suburban ones, as it had the service workshop nearby. I thought it would have the best range of tools. I bought a set of 6-pointed Secure Torx bits, which I've kept as I had none before. The bloke was baffled though when I came back from the carpark asking about 5-pointed bits after I tried to check the bit size against the airbag bolts. He couldn't find anything on the computer. That part # would have been handy :(

Maybe info like that should be in a sticky - with info about special tools & techniques needed to do things on the AU... like using a pair of 3mm drill bits to get the stereo out...
I had the same issue until I was pointed in the direction of an old thread on here with pictures of the required bit set. I think I've since lost the bits, but I wont loose the part number.
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:49 PM   #18
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In the end I was glad I didn't find the 5 sided torx bit. Had to go the modified screwdriver route and it worked fine and saved me a few dollars - it was a screwdriver that already had a couple of mm of the tip snapped off, so didn't even waste a good screwdriver to do it...
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Old 06-03-2008, 08:43 PM   #19
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Smile Removing AU steering wheel

Hi guys
I replaced mu AU wheel with an EL one this is how I did it
first I tried a torx bit but with no luck so I tried a cold chisel (not Jimmy Barnes) nothing so in the end i used a 4 inch grinder with a cutting blade and made 2 slots and un did the bolts with a "watch maker" screw driver
I undid the main bolt a couple of turns and put my knees under the wheel and hit the bolt with a hammer just like the old days and it came off after 2 hits I replaced the wheel and used 2 mud guard bolts (10 mm heads) now I have a nice wheel and real bolts if I ever have to remove it again
thanks John
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Old 06-03-2008, 09:01 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooper69S
In the end I was glad I didn't find the 5 sided torx bit. Had to go the modified screwdriver route and it worked fine and saved me a few dollars - it was a screwdriver that already had a couple of mm of the tip snapped off, so didn't even waste a good screwdriver to do it...
I managed to get one out with this method, but the other wouldn't budge so I had to fork out the $15-$20 for the bits
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Old 06-03-2008, 09:34 PM   #21
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Customised screw driver is the go. You may need to "customise" it a few times due to it breaking but easier/cheaper in my book. On the last go it seams to be holding well. Hasn't broken yet.
Cost me $5 for a pack of 6 (3 of each kind). Modified one and still use the rest.

And FYI when you take them out, replace them with two allen key bolts. Alot easier to put back in and take out if you need to. I'll get the bolt specs for you.

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Old 06-03-2008, 09:37 PM   #22
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You don't need to disconnect the battery to do this - just remove the airbag fuse. I have replaced around 10 EF/EL/AU1/AU2 steering wheels just removing the fuse (and one where I forgot), and the airbag didn't go off. Other than that, the rest of the above should help - screwdriver blade with a notch is my original method!
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Old 06-03-2008, 09:51 PM   #23
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or if you're lazy, ford will charge about 70 bucks to swap the wheel over lol
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Old 06-03-2008, 10:03 PM   #24
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The allen key bolts, or any bolt that you replace the 5 bit torx with, you will need an M6 x 25mm bolt
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Old 06-03-2008, 10:48 PM   #25
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Quote:
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The allen key bolts, or any bolt that you replace the 5 bit torx with, you will need an M6 x 25mm bolt
M6 x 15mm will do in a pinch as well.
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb)
1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs).
Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

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Old 06-03-2008, 11:38 PM   #26
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well my options are to get a secondhand wheel off ebay and swap it myself or go to an auto upholsterer and pay about $120 to get new leather put on the wheel. depends how much this wheel im watching goes for, i guess. CBF buying a momo steering wheel for what i see as very little gain.
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Old 06-03-2008, 11:43 PM   #27
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It really depends what wheels your coming from. If your coming from the stock wheel to the momo wheel you will never look back. It fits in your hand better, feels better in your hand, it's just so nice to use.

I went from stock wheel to momo and will never, ever use a stock au one again. It's that much better. I've even convinced an e series mate to get one because they are so much better than the standard wheel.

It's hard to describe, but hold/pick up a momo and you'll see.

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Old 07-03-2008, 12:11 AM   #28
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heh, my dad's last 3 cars have all had momo wheels, nothing special in my experience. not worth $350 or whatever that guy who PM'ed me was asking anyway

its just that the previous owner of my car was a smoker (i guess) so theres alot of wear on the top of the steering wheel (leather XR wheel) from where the bloke had his hand holding a ciggie i guess :P

gives me the shits looking at it whenever i drive the car so wanted to do something about it. a nice dark blue perforated leather cover custom fit by these guys would be just the ticket i think
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Old 07-03-2008, 01:39 AM   #29
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I paid $250 for my momo brand new from autotek.com.au
they're all listed in the oem section of the website. The also do some other designs that people on here have bought and say are more comfortable to use than the momo's (same price)
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Old 08-03-2008, 10:35 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooper69S
I paid $250 for my momo brand new from autotek.com.au
they're all listed in the oem section of the website. The also do some other designs that people on here have bought and say are more comfortable to use than the momo's (same price)
That would be the BA GT style wheel. For $200, it's the best wheel for an AU, IMO; especially if you have big hands. I've transferred mine from the AU to the EL and now to the NF; that's how much I love it!

Sanjay - I have a leather wheel from the NF if you want it. It's not the perforated leather, but solid and looks to be in good nick. Around $50 including postage and she's yours.
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb)
1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs).
Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

FPV 335 build stats: <click here>

Ford Performance Club ACT
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