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Old 06-06-2008, 09:12 PM   #1
did53
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Default stroker??

hey guys ive just joined this forum, figured its the best one around..
ive got a black AU XR8 ute manual, got twin 2 1/4 exhausts from cats back, 19'' xhp boost rims, lowered all round, an a few more things ill post some pics up soon, but i am wondering the best things to do to it for the price,

headers -
induction -
chip -

an roughly how much is it to get it stroked from 302 to 347, pretty interested in NA power.. thanks guys an any other suggestions wud be sweet cheers

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Old 06-06-2008, 09:22 PM   #2
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Welcome to the forums.

Depending on a few things, you'd be looking at anywhere from $7-10k to do it properly. The "few things" it depends on would be whether you kept the standard heads or went with alloy ones, put a bigger cam in etc etc.

There are a few guys on here who have done it, first one I can think of is Russell who has had is XR8 made into a 347 using an Eagle kit and standard heads.
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Old 06-06-2008, 09:40 PM   #3
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doing mine at the moment stroking to 347
stroker kit 1400
heads 2000
manifold 750
stud girdle 300
custom cam 500
rollers 450
machine work 800
throttle body 300
injectors 350
sump 510
gaskets 150
just a quick run down,but your looking roughly at $10000+ by the time its sitting in your engine bay
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Old 06-06-2008, 11:21 PM   #4
mattp
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Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a 5.6l T3? I understand the attraction of creating something yourself, but you can get a T3 for ~30k and you get the whole package, with brembos and everything if you shop around...
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Old 07-06-2008, 08:51 AM   #5
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I've actually been looking at going down this road myself. I currently have a 6pack, but looking at purchasing a AU XR8II or III manual.

Low K' examples of these can be had for between $15,000 and $18,000.
I've seen the stroker kits on Ebay for ~$1300 or so, and I can do the rebuild in my sleep. The only thing which needs machine work is the block to have bored to suit whatever piston size is chosen. Boring is usually done for lesss than $500.

I would initially just bang it together with the rest of the standard engine parts, as torque would be increased substantially as is. Peak power may not move a lot, but that's ok considering the low outlay.

If all the work was done by myself, the outlay wouldn't even touch $2000.

My question is, has anyone done it with a relatively factory standard 200kw engine, and what were the results.

Rick.
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Old 07-06-2008, 09:17 AM   #6
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I had a quote similar to stavros68... was told the block would also need to be notched for clearance around the crank. I guess that's machine work too?

FWIW what you're proposing Rick sounds very similar to the HSV 5.7 stroker of around VR vintage... stock power of the 5.0 is now a distant memory, I think it was 168 or 175 kW. The stroker's quoted power was 215kW or 230kW if you paid a few grand extra for blueprinting, but IIRC the top end, cam and externals were nothing special.

Torque was massively increased of course, but it protested at being revved too much. I guess things like stud girdle, heads, cam, manifold, TB and injectors would take care of that...
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Old 07-06-2008, 09:33 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sox
I've actually been looking at going down this road myself. I currently have a 6pack, but looking at purchasing a AU XR8II or III manual.

Low K' examples of these can be had for between $15,000 and $18,000.
I've seen the stroker kits on Ebay for ~$1300 or so, and I can do the rebuild in my sleep. The only thing which needs machine work is the block to have bored to suit whatever piston size is chosen. Boring is usually done for lesss than $500.

I would initially just bang it together with the rest of the standard engine parts, as torque would be increased substantially as is. Peak power may not move a lot, but that's ok considering the low outlay.

If all the work was done by myself, the outlay wouldn't even touch $2000.

My question is, has anyone done it with a relatively factory standard 200kw engine, and what were the results.

Rick.
Russell's was a 220 from memory that dropped a piston so his apart from exhaust was fairly standard. I think he got just under 200rwkw when it went together?
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Old 07-06-2008, 09:52 AM   #8
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Yer, that's what I figured, ~200rwkw or so.
Once alloy heads, and other goodies are fitted, I guess 250rwkw+ would be pretty easily achievable in a daily driven yoot.

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Old 07-06-2008, 10:46 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b2tf
Russell's was a 220 from memory that dropped a piston so his apart from exhaust was fairly standard. I think he got just under 200rwkw when it went together?
Me me me me me!!!!

When it went together it made 203rwkw but that was running out of fuel and with a unichip. Mods when it was done were GT40 upper manifold, Herrod 4>1's, Herrod restrictor(tm) cats, single 2.5" Herrod exhaust, 3" intake pipe & a pretty small cam (for the engine). With proper tuning the same combo + a Walbro fuel pump & G&D airbox netted me 222rwkw. Now with the twin 2.5" system and metal substrate cats I have run a 13.78 with a stock auto and diff gears. Heads are still stock (apart from getting all the shrapnel from cyl.8 removed) as is the lower intake manifold. Compression is up around 11:1.

Use the right bits and get a bigger cam and 230-240rwkw isn't out of reach with the stock heads.
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Old 08-06-2008, 08:47 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell
Me me me me me!!!!

When it went together it made 203rwkw but that was running out of fuel and with a unichip. Mods when it was done were GT40 upper manifold, Herrod 4>1's, Herrod restrictor(tm) cats, single 2.5" Herrod exhaust, 3" intake pipe & a pretty small cam (for the engine). With proper tuning the same combo + a Walbro fuel pump & G&D airbox netted me 222rwkw. Now with the twin 2.5" system and metal substrate cats I have run a 13.78 with a stock auto and diff gears. Heads are still stock (apart from getting all the shrapnel from cyl.8 removed) as is the lower intake manifold. Compression is up around 11:1.

Use the right bits and get a bigger cam and 230-240rwkw isn't out of reach with the stock heads.
What was driveability like, idle quality, low down power, fuel economy, etc?
And what mph did it run at that ET?

Rick.
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Old 08-06-2008, 11:43 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sox
What was driveability like, idle quality, low down power, fuel economy, etc?
And what mph did it run at that ET?

Rick.
It drives like a stocker, it has a nice lumpy idle, low down torque is great but as you would expect economy is non existent.
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Old 08-06-2008, 07:48 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattp
Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a 5.6l T3? I understand the attraction of creating something yourself, but you can get a T3 for ~30k and you get the whole package, with brembos and everything if you shop around...
or even buying a t3 engine could be a better option than a stroker rebuild. I had a quote from ftg for $7500 for a complete t3 engine including manifold. I was tempted but it ended up costing me about that much to stroke mine with better heads (afr 185) bigger cam, higher comp (better as its dedicated lpg) and a coupla other things.

for someone wanting to do up an xr8 though, it might be financially better to sell it and buy a pursuit ute. had a look on carsales and there's a few under $25k
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