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Old 04-09-2008, 11:27 PM   #1
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Default My home made intake

Gday guys this is my intake i made this arvo, I know its crude but im hoping it does the job until something more permanent is constructed i havent quite decided yet if it makes a difference, im gonna spray the whole thing black as well. where the pipe joins in the rubber adaptor im not sure if it upsets air flow as it flows around the 45* bend. any hints to overcome this??



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Old 04-09-2008, 11:28 PM   #2
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Ps its done with 80mm pvc pipe
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Old 04-09-2008, 11:28 PM   #3
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That looks like PVC pipe yea?

*edit*

ah just answered my question... lol

not sure how well PVC goes with heat.. anyone?
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Old 04-09-2008, 11:32 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by MrXr6Tickford
That looks like PVC pipe yea?

*edit*

ah just answered my question... lol

not sure how well PVC goes with heat.. anyone?
Fine until it catches fire.
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Old 04-09-2008, 11:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
Fine until it catches fire.
It won't catch fire but it will either melt or become brittle and crack.
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Old 04-09-2008, 11:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
Fine until it catches fire.
Aha yea like there's nothing there that would ??
There is plastic everywhere!!
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Old 05-09-2008, 12:05 AM   #7
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Aha yea like there's nothing there that would ??
There is plastic everywhere!!
Plastics aren't plastics. There are many different types. Some that can withstand heat, some that can't.

Long story short, this has been done before in the AU section specifically. The consensus was that the PVC will either become brittle over time due to the heat cycles, or melt due to the temperatures. All this = BAD.

It's just as easy to get a metal pipe and an EF lid or EF lid pipe.
Here's one I prepared earlier. Cost around $40 to do. $60 if you include the rubber to get rid of the flex pipe.



It will make a difference. It'll just take a while for the computer to adjust and make it feel faster.

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Old 05-09-2008, 12:05 AM   #8
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The ridges in the pvc pipe wont aIIow for a smoth air fIow they cause more turbuIance which reduces fIow rather than increase it.
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Old 05-09-2008, 12:15 AM   #9
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Hmm air flow over air easier than most plastics or metals..
Check AFR cylinder heads ?? They leave the CNC groves on there ports..
When I got my old Clevo heads ported etc at Gatt Bros.. They dimpled the ports..
Steel or alloy is better though..
If the pipe can be mandrel bent at a wider curve as it enters existing. It would seem to flow better also..
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Old 05-09-2008, 12:18 AM   #10
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Well at least if you get more pipe (stainless steel looks the best) you've got all the measurements all done for when you cut it.
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Old 05-09-2008, 12:20 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebxr8240
Check AFR cylinder heads ?? They leave the CNC groves on there ports..
When I got my old Clevo heads ported etc at Gatt Bros.. They dimpled the ports..
That is not for airflow. This is because if you polish up a cylinder head, the port acts in the same way as when air flows over glass. The air sticks to the surface, which makes the fuel drop out of suspension.

That’s the reason that I know as to why those groves are there.

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Old 05-09-2008, 04:20 PM   #12
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yeah guys i had it on for a day and took it off, i think ill just make the set up similar to superroo's, did you buy the pipe from anywhere in particular?? exhuast place?? super cheaP something like that??
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Old 05-09-2008, 04:50 PM   #13
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I work for Marplex we compound plastic for the automotive industry among others, I dont work in the lab, but I do no every job is custom tailored & formulated to the requirements of the part. So all compounds are totally different & if you leave that set up in there to long who know's what will happen?! :gren:
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Old 05-09-2008, 06:39 PM   #14
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make the whole thing out of stainless, all the way to the tb. no join's, look smick.
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Old 05-09-2008, 10:58 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_dunwell
yeah guys i had it on for a day and took it off, i think ill just make the set up similar to superroo's, did you buy the pipe from anywhere in particular?? exhuast place?? super cheaP something like that??
Supercheap while they had 20% off. Was just the longest polished 76mm ID pipe they had.
I painted it back because i scratched the pipe to blazers playing around with the setup, and i like the stealth look of it.

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Old 05-09-2008, 11:57 PM   #16
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In response to ebxr8240's, yes head ports and so on need a semi rough surface cause a polish surface will cause fuel droplets like superroo said, but this is only important after the injectors, anything before it can be as smooth and polished as you like, and the better the finish the better the flow, also it is still commen practice for exhaust ports and combustion chambers to still be polished, just not intake ports.
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Old 06-09-2008, 12:52 PM   #17
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Just get some stainless steel stuff from supercheap mate, looks a great deal better. All you need is about 200-250mm of straight 3" I.D pipe, a 45 degree bend and a rubber joiner. Costs maybe $60-80

http://www.fordforums.com.au/attachm...chmentid=46172

http://www.fordforums.com.au/attachm...chmentid=46173

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Old 06-09-2008, 01:02 PM   #18
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what about the intake i made a month ago, check that out, cost me hundred buks to do
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Old 06-09-2008, 01:08 PM   #19
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Go to a place that makes bull bars. They can't really use pieces of
pipe under 1400mm. So anything less normally goes to scrap.
I got this done for mine by a mate. He reckons under $100 un-polished.
Only took him 15mins to do.

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