Water wetter,anybody used it?

[dave289]

Has anybody used this product and what did you think? can I buy some in australia anywhere?


http://www.redlineoil.com/products_c...coolantFlash=1

[Yellow_Festiva]

Originally Posted by dave289

Has anybody used this product and what did you think? can I buy some in australia anywhere?


http://www.redlineoil.com/products_c...coolantFlash=1

When I had a 59 Bugeye with a worked Cooper S engine taken out to around 1330cc with stock radiator I went from coolant to this product. It does work, and at the time I got it from the registrar / mechanic at the car club for around $10 or $12.

From what I understand, this product added with demineralized water beats pre mixed coolants hands down. Especially in older cars.

[Falcon Coupe]

I had trouble running warm last summer, i added a bottle of water wetter with distilled water (no tap water) and had a remarkable temperature reduction, i highly recommend it.

In Vic you can buy it at Bursons auto parts for $18, not sure if they are in NSW ?

[gregaust]

I've used the VP fuel brand called "Cool Down" . Same stuff and it works.

[sprjenkins]

Wasn't working to well for one of the Mini guys down at Sandown today, 1330cc Cooper S, He said that it came highly recommended from other people though.

[ZA-289]

Coventry auto and autobarn sell it. Supposed to be good, I've never used it tho.

[Falcon Coupe]

Originally Posted by gregaust

I've used the VP fuel brand called "Cool Down" . Same stuff and it works.

Reading the info this looks like the same product, where do you buy this one from ?

http://www.vpracing.com.au/Data%20Sh...ool%20down.pdf

[CAT600]

Water wetter works, no question about it.

If somebody is having trouble with their cooling system with this stuff, they either did not add the recommended amount of ethylene glycol (a constiuent of coolant) to it, or the cooling system is not up to scratch.

Some people get confused about antifreeze/antiboil. It is designed to reduce cavitation under pressure and raise boiling point. But it is a two edged sword, as typical antifreeze/antiboils do not dissipate heat as well as straight water can.

That is why Redline recommend a combination of antiboil and water wetter in a cooling system.

Daniel

[rag top]

Tilley Racing Products sell it as well:
http://www.tilleyracing.com.au/product-redline.php

[jcxr]

Yep, can vouch for it. As has been said, drain all anti freeze/glycol and use distilled water only.

[gregaust]

Originally Posted by Falcon Coupe

Reading the info this looks like the same product, where do you buy this one from ?

http://www.vpracing.com.au/Data%20Sh...ool%20down.pdf

I get the Cool-Down from RDP up here ..

[LOWBA6]

Have used water wetter in mums old camry. Never had any issues with it.

[irish2]

This stuff is a short term fix but a bloody good short term fix. If your system isn't cooling efficiently by itself there is a problem.

[Hally]

Where is the best place to buy distilled water?

[rocket67]

Hally, You will find it at your local supermarket.

It is labelled as Demineralised water. Available in 3 or 4 litre plastic bottle, and it is cheap. Should cost about $3.

Buy a few and keep them around the house. Very handy for filling up steam irons.

Rocket.

[Hally]

Thanks Rocket.

I have been wanting to try water wetter for ages in the Mustang. New motor, new water pump, new radiator and still overheats in traffic. Any one got recomendations for a good sclae cleaner of cooling system flush before doing this though?

Cheers,

Andrew

[rocket67]

Originally Posted by Hally

Thanks Rocket.

I have been wanting to try water wetter for ages in the Mustang. New motor, new water pump, new radiator and still overheats in traffic. Any one got recomendations for a good sclae cleaner of cooling system flush before doing this though?

Cheers,

Andrew

Hally, What year Mustang, motor? We have a few stangs ourselves.

Chemical cleaners can make your problem worse - By blocking the radiator tubes with scale that you may loosen from the sides of the water jackets.

It is possible that this may have already happened. This is what i would do -After driving the car, let it cool down for about half an hour. Then very carefully relase the pressure in the system by turning your radiator cap to the first notch - use cloth and be very careful not to completely release cap. When you believe that the pressure has been released, check by squeezing your top hose to be sure.
Then undo your bottom radiator hose and twist and pull it off of the bottom radiator fitting. Let the water gush out and try to catch it in a plastic bucket. When the engine has cooled right down - re connect the hose and refill system with water.

This is the best way to flush your cooling system. Repeat the process a few times over a couple of weeks.

If you can manage to catch the water as it gushes out - you can check to see what rubbish is coming out of your system.

There could be other problems with your system. Check the following -
1) Is the thermostat fitted correctly? Many people fit them upside down! The pellet side must go to the engine.

2) Is the spring in the bottom hose still there? If it is not - the hose can collapse and cause problems.

3) Is the radiator the correct size for the engine? I have seen many 6cyl radiators fitted to a V8 car.

4) Is your timing set correctly?

5) Is your head gasket (s ) sealing correctly? A blown head gasket can cause all sorts of problems.

A good starting point is to flush the system a few times. But take EXTREME care not to scald yourself!

Rocket.

[Hally]

Rocket,

Thanks for your detailed response. Some answers to your questions:

1. Motor is a re-built mid-80's 302 that was purchased from Eagle's earlier this year.
2. I believe the thermostat is fitted correct. From memory, the side with the sping is on the motor/manifold side.
3. Radiator is a 3 core pruchased from Aussie Desert Coolers. Definately a V8 one, but currently no shroud and satndard five blade fan.
4. Timing is correct.
5. See point one. Seems to be no oil or white froth in the motor.

The funny thing is, I can have the car idleing in the garage for half an hour and it doesn't overheat. if I drive it in traffic, stop start the temp goes through the roof. Once getting a clear run the temp comes down fairly quickly.

If I can get hold of a fan shroud I will give that a go with the water wetter etc. My other option is that Aussie Desert Coolers made me up a good shroud to take a 16 inch thermo. My problem with this is that the thermo controller I was using (Davies Craig) with the cappillary in the top hose always made the top radiator hose leak or blow off. Looking for another way to run a thermo switch. Please have mentioned a thermostat housing from an air conditioned car, with a tridon switch intalled. trouble is i haven't ben albe to find one. Happy to hear other suggestions or advice on any other new products? Are you able to get a thermo switch brassed in to an existing radiator? or should I get a custom aluminium one made up with a switch. it is really giving me the craps as i hardly drive the car because I can't be bother with the hassle and don't enjoy it.

Cheers,

Andrew

[rexeka]

Hi Andrew,

Not having a radiator shroad could be the cause of your problems.

My basic knowledge of how they work with a shroad is the fan creates a cyclone style effect of sucking the heat out of your radiator only.

Without the shroad the fan will draw air from all around the surrounding area and not just from the radiator.

I would be installing a shroad first. But that's just my guess.

Cheers Eric

[jcxr]

Andrew, get a shroud onto ASAP. Also, there should have been a little rubber piece that fits between the capillary tube and radiator neck that would stop the leak/blowing off the top hose. I've got a shroud if you want one.

[Hally]

jcxr,

Assuming the size/shape is correct I would definately take the shroud of your hands. I have been trying to get one from Mustang World for ages but they are always out of stock.

Are you in Melbourne? If so let me know and I ill arrange to get it from you. Let me know how much you want for it.

Cheers,

Andrew

[jcxr]

Hally, you have PM

[Hally]

Thanks

[68 coupe]

hally u can get radiatos people to fit fitting for thermo switch just under top hose fitting i did this on my 68 mustang and then run a pulsar thermoswitch. works like a dream fitting cost 30bucks fitted and switch was 14 bucks from autobarn

[elusiverunner]

Hello - I am having my car serviced (220Kw V8) next week and I was thinking of trying some of this product.

Am I correct in assuming that the current coolant I have in amy radiator needs removing first (pre-mixed coolant from a store) or can I just add it to the coolant or should I mix some with the coolant and add the entire mixure to the radiator.

Thanks in advance for your help.

[vanman_75]

Originally Posted by elusiverunner

Hello - I am having my car serviced (220Kw V8) next week and I was thinking of trying some of this product.

Am I correct in assuming that the current coolant I have in amy radiator needs removing first (pre-mixed coolant from a store) or can I just add it to the coolant or should I mix some with the coolant and add the entire mixure to the radiator.

Thanks in advance for your help.

even mixing different coolants is a no no ,i advise to always flush system before changing brands or coolants .

[dave289]

Since I started the thread I have since used water wetter in my 67 fairmont v8. I only drive it occasionally, full flush of radiator,replaced with water wetter with distilled water .I have not really noticed much of a difference in heavy traffic ,but it runs cooler on highway cruising in a noticible way. prior to adding the water wetter I installed a craig davies 16" thermo fan with adjustable thermostat.It now allowed me to drive my car through heavy traffic all day everyday and also on the highway in any conditions which was not possible before as it would start to run to hot when sitting in traffic.I had looked into water wetter around this time and thought that I would give it a go. After using it I would recommend it after the highway improvement I noticed but remember I am running an old windsor which do tend to run a bit hot(not that it seems to bother the old windsor).

[MaTTe]

i highly recommend the water wetter, i use it in my street cars and in the race car.
When you change your old coolant to water wetter, you really need to flush the cooling system before adding the water wetter.
I usually buy 2 x 15L goonbags of distilled water from coventrys (about $5 each). Drop the coolant, refill with distilled water, get the motor hot, with the heater on hot, let the thermostat open for a while, shut the motor off, drop the water. Repeat once or twice.
then finally fill with distilled water and add your water wetter.

The only reason you would want to add any glycol to the distilled water and water wetter is in a climate that your coolant is likely to freeze overnight (rare in aus) And if you are in that specific climate, don't add more than a 50% mixture.

Glycol is the worlds best antifreeze, it will do nothing to keep your car cool. Water wetter has the rust inhibitor properties to comply with australian standards, and is compatible with alloy engines also.

Again, I highly recommend it.

[EL Ghia 6]

Just read my EL Owners manual - bottom of page 91 in BOLD. Note: 6 Cylinder vehicles are factory fitted with corrosion inhibitor only. If vehicle is to be driven at sub-zero temperatures, anti freeze must be added.

I don't see the need for a Glycol(anti freeze) based cooler for most parts of Aus. Water Wetter ticks the anti corrosion box and unlike Glycol does not reduce the ability of the water to transfer heat.

[irish2]

Originally Posted by john rv

I don't see the need for a Glycol(anti freeze) based cooler for most parts of Aus. Water Wetter ticks the anti corrosion box and unlike Glycol does not reduce the ability of the water to transfer heat.

Glycol is also an anti boil agent. With glycol you can have a hotter motor without it boiling. Some motors simply require glycol as they run hot for fuel atomization. Even with a high pressure cap under hard driving the system can get hot enough to boil in certain cars.