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16-11-2008, 02:03 AM
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Just slidin'
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Brisvegas
Posts: 7,791
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Hi guys
 .Decided to upgrade the brakes to series 2/3 items tonight, started at 6, finishing up now, but have a major problem. I am completely stuffed as to how the sway bar mouts, where I need to drill, etc etc, everything else is fine, not problems, but the last thing, the swaybar, has us absolutely stumped.  : So here I ask the question, if someone can post up pics, and details of what need to be done, or if someone can come around to my house and just point out what I have to do, I would be greatly appreciative. Ill throw someone some petrol money or whatever, I have a few parts here that someone might want, I just need this done tomorow. If anyone in Brisbane can help, Im begging, or if anyone could help out with pictures, that would be awesome. Josh
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MD Mondeo - For the family
NP Pajero - For the adventure |
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16-11-2008, 08:23 AM
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LIFELONG DJR SUPPORTER
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: CENTRAL QUEENSLAND
Posts: 5,324
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Josh, where are you stumped, at the Sway bar ''D's", or at the Link end. I can pull a wheel from my AU III and get a photo if it would help!
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16-11-2008, 09:27 AM
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Just slidin'
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Brisvegas
Posts: 7,791
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Its all good, thanks heaps. Tech Trainer your the best.
MNM96, thanks, I have it all figured out now. One simple little thing was all that was stopping us from having it doen. Its funny how your brain just doesnt work when youve been awake for 24 hours.
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MD Mondeo - For the family
NP Pajero - For the adventure |
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16-11-2008, 09:54 AM
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LIFELONG DJR SUPPORTER
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: CENTRAL QUEENSLAND
Posts: 5,324
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I hear you Josh. I have been doing some odd hours with work. My normal shift is 2 days, 2 nights, four off. I work at a suspension shop on days off for a little spare coin. Last roster I did D,D,D,N,D,N,D,D slept for 24 hours. In that run, I got 2 hours sleep before the 2nd night, and managed about 2 hours both night shifts (paid of course). Body shuts down eventually, but you seem to go into auto pilot, and the simplest things seem alien almost!
Good to hear you got it sorted. Sometimes a decent sleep helps add some perspective. Cheers, Mike
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16-11-2008, 05:58 PM
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#5 | ||
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Just slidin'
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Brisvegas
Posts: 7,791
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All finished up, and test driven now. Must say that it pulls up nicely, no brake shudder, and I made sure the ABS still works, as its raining here, I just hopped on full force at 60, little ABS stint, then dead stop. Much more inspiring then the AU1 brakes.
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MD Mondeo - For the family
NP Pajero - For the adventure |
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16-11-2008, 07:39 PM
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#6 | |||
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Miami Pilot
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,704
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Quote:
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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16-11-2008, 07:44 PM
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#7 | ||
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V8 AU Fairlane
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Nambucca Heads
Posts: 153
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Please post up some pics when you can as i am very interested in doing this myself and had the same questions as you. Well done mate!
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17-11-2008, 07:33 AM
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#8 | ||
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Just slidin'
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Brisvegas
Posts: 7,791
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Ill post some pics later on.
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MD Mondeo - For the family
NP Pajero - For the adventure |
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17-11-2008, 04:36 PM
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#9 | ||
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Just slidin'
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Brisvegas
Posts: 7,791
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Ok, some pics as requested.
 The front end I bought.  My engine bay.  Found out the bushes in the front were all Nolethane.   Dismantled a bit, to make it easier.  K-frame and Crossmember.  When it was all undone, ready for the new parts.  Rotor difference, and check out the size difference of those callipers.  Check the thickness difference as well. Its only 4mm, but its better then the crappy AU1 thickness rotors (21mm or whatever).  How it all fitted up.  I was told that you need to only drill two holes, and use two bolts. Im sure that everone means two PER SIDE. And use really sharp, good quality drill bits that are long enough to go through, as the chassis is VERY VERY strong, lol.  One side where we needed to drill through.  From uderneath, facing out, showing where we drilled through.  Finished product
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MD Mondeo - For the family
NP Pajero - For the adventure |
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17-11-2008, 07:11 PM
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#10 | ||
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V8 AU Fairlane
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Nambucca Heads
Posts: 153
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Great looking job.
When i go to do my AU Fairlane this will really help. Thanks heaps for the pics. |
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17-11-2008, 08:59 PM
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#11 | ||
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Boost Addict
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Brisbane
Posts: 1,151
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hehe i got a few pics like that fo my car too ... i didnt worry about bolting the swaybar d bracket, instead i welded it in place
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N12 Pulsar - sold Gen1 Liberty Turbo - sold VP Commodore Turbo - sold LN65 Hilux Turbo - sold EL31 Corolla Turbo - sold Ford AU Ute Turbo - sold Ford AU XR8 Sedan - 5.4l V8 Turbo (in the build) Ford BA XR6T Ute - daily driver Ford FG XR6T Sedan - cruiser do you see a general trend? I DO  Can't live with it, can't live without it! |
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17-11-2008, 10:01 PM
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Teh Baest
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Hills Area, NSW
Posts: 649
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Damn those calipers are huge!
Are they stock AU2-3? Quote:
I was confused for about 10 minutes trying to figure out wtf u meant!
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1999 Liquid Silver AU Show: XR6 Kit, Low, RDA Slotted's F&B, Fully Tabouli Sound System, Altezza Tailights (Good ones!) Go: K&N Pod w/ 3" intake, XR6T Snorkel, Pacie Comp 4480's, 2.5" Cat Back, CMS Stg2 Cam, Custom Tune, Tranny Cooler Coming..CMS Stg2A Cam, 68mm TB Later.. 4.5L w/ BOOOOOOOOOOST or XR6T or AUIII XR8 220 Currently: 151kW (165 on other dynos ) |
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18-11-2008, 03:06 AM
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Just slidin'
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Brisvegas
Posts: 7,791
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Yes, they are stock. Really shows how stupid Ford were using the series one crap.
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MD Mondeo - For the family
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Need Help!!! Urgently!!!!
Linear Mode
