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12-02-2012, 09:33 AM | #1 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: NSW
Posts: 680
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Has anyone done a "how to" on an AU auto to manual conversion. A couple of questions:
1. does tailshaft need to be replaced? 2. What ecu do you need to run? (Currently VCT auto) |
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12-02-2012, 02:16 PM | #2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: South Bowenfels NSW
Posts: 687
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Not to sure on the tail shaft i'm pretty sure they are the same. But i have heard you can get away with running an Auto ECU in a manual i think it just causes a slightly high idle. Your best off doing a search on it i'm sure these questions have been answered before
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12-02-2012, 08:30 PM | #3 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Melbourne, Vic
Posts: 1,121
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I believe the driveshafts are different lengths as my Mechanic got one custom made for my wagon when I had it converted to manual. Not sure by how much or if you could get away with the auto one though.
As for the ecu the auto requires a temperature feed from the auto gearbox which can not be has with a manual gearbox. Therefore the thermo fans will run at 100% non stop not allowing the car to reach temperature. I think these can be flashed but not 100% sure. I ended up getting a manual ecu from Injectronics.
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AU III Forte wagon - V8, 5spd man, lowered, 18" Honeycombs, Stock diff rebuilt with TruTrac LSD, Leather Ghia interior/dash, custom twin 2.5" into single 3" exhaust. Wagon Build AU I Forte Sedan - No longer
Toy Car Build |
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12-02-2012, 08:49 PM | #4 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 25
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The auto ecu can be used all that needs to be done is a resistor in the two trans temp sender can't remember which 2 or what resistance although i think it may be 6.8k mine idled fine and thermo fans ran normally doing this also just bridge the 2 wires for neutral switch and join up reverse lights
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12-02-2012, 09:40 PM | #5 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Melbourne, Vic
Posts: 1,121
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Quote:
Was this on an AU? The reason I ask is that I have seen it said before that the resistor trick does not work on the AU's as the ECU learns around it?? Not too sure about this though.
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AU III Forte wagon - V8, 5spd man, lowered, 18" Honeycombs, Stock diff rebuilt with TruTrac LSD, Leather Ghia interior/dash, custom twin 2.5" into single 3" exhaust. Wagon Build AU I Forte Sedan - No longer
Toy Car Build |
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12-02-2012, 10:38 PM | #6 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 25
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It was on an au series 2 forte and was still working fine 12 months later when I traded
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19-02-2012, 12:07 PM | #7 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: hallam
Posts: 231
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I done the manual conversion on my series 3 wagon 3 weeks ago, i use my auto tailshaft its a little bit too long but still works fine, im running the auto ecu atm havnt done the resistor trick as of yet, the conversion itself is pretty straight forward.
1. remove steering column 2. unbolt pedal box and fit manual one. 3. Refit steering column 4. unbolt tailshaft 5.unbolt torque convertor (access in front of auto) 6. unbolt gearbox mounts and support gearbox on jack. 7. remove bell housing bolts and starter motor bolts. 8. remove plugs and selector from the auto. 9. Drop auto out. 10. remove flywheel bolts. 11. fit spigot bearing for manual input shaft. 12. fit manual flywheel and clutch assy. 13. fit manual box and bellhousing bolts. 14. bolt gearbox mounts and refit tailshaft. 15. run clutch cable. 16. sort out reverse lights etc etc. Pretty straight forward if you know what you doing took me 6 hours from start to finish. be careful not to burn yourself if your doing it after driving |
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26-05-2012, 07:05 PM | #8 | ||
Bush Mechanic
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Brookton and Stirling, WA
Posts: 2
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I have just done the conversion on a 2001 AU SII XR8, from auto to manual. I only have the auto ECU, it is all in but wont start (doesn't know its in Neutral). I need to know what Gearbox harness i should use and what i neeed to do to it to get it running.
Thanks |
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26-05-2012, 09:35 PM | #9 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Melbourne, Vic
Posts: 1,121
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You will need to loop the wire on the gearbox loom for the neutral switch. On my gearbox loom this was a black wire. Can have a look tomorrow and take a photo of which pins and how it is looped as it is all out of the car at the moment.
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AU III Forte wagon - V8, 5spd man, lowered, 18" Honeycombs, Stock diff rebuilt with TruTrac LSD, Leather Ghia interior/dash, custom twin 2.5" into single 3" exhaust. Wagon Build AU I Forte Sedan - No longer
Toy Car Build |
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26-05-2012, 09:55 PM | #10 | ||
Bush Mechanic
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Brookton and Stirling, WA
Posts: 2
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That would be very helpful if you could. I have been told it is very simple when you know what to do.
My Auto harness had a round and a rectangular plug to connect to the car but the manual harness only has the rectangular, so I'm assuming its on the round one just not sure which pins. Thanks heaps if you could post a pick.
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AU XR8 SII Sedan <ARULOST 2> Turbo EA I6 <Not for Road> |
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27-05-2012, 09:57 AM | #11 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Melbourne, Vic
Posts: 1,121
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Ok so it is a long time now since I pulled it out...But I am 90% sure this plug shown in the photo is the one you will need to loop as shown to get the neutral switch to allow you to start it.
__________________
AU III Forte wagon - V8, 5spd man, lowered, 18" Honeycombs, Stock diff rebuilt with TruTrac LSD, Leather Ghia interior/dash, custom twin 2.5" into single 3" exhaust. Wagon Build AU I Forte Sedan - No longer
Toy Car Build |
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