Replace ignition leads

tiger99 · 11-05-2007, 07:16 PM

I'm planning on replacing my leads tomorrow. I have had a bit of a look in the past and it seems pretty fiddly. Any tips?? can it be done with a jack or some ramps or does it need to be on a hoist. any recommendations on a decent set as this is the 3rd time i have had to replace them (hence why i am doing it my self)
99 au falcon six
Thanks Pete

JC · 11-05-2007, 07:43 PM

I can be done flat on the ground (no ramps or jack needed). Just remove the airbox, and work from the front of the manifold, reaching in and under the inlet manifold. Do NOT try it when the engine's hot though; you will burn skin off.

tiger99 · 11-05-2007, 07:48 PM

cheers jc. i wasn't looking forward to dragging my barge-**** under it

JC · 11-05-2007, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tiger99

cheers jc. i wasn't looking forward to dragging my barge-**** under it

It's still not easy - allow up to 2 hours total. But it can be done, and is the way I do it.

tiger99 · 11-05-2007, 08:23 PM

do you reckon it will make a difference in performance and/or longevity if i get a high performance set, or just a standard set from repco?

bodes-sh · 11-05-2007, 08:27 PM

you don't have to remove the airbox, just the snorkel, and a standard set should be ok, i have bosch ones in mine and they seem ok

Bushbasher · 11-05-2007, 09:20 PM

I changed my original leads for a set of Eagle leads a few weeks ago in less than 1/2 an hour by going at the coil pack from underneath in a pit and didn't have to remove anything and felt an improvement in throttle response. Just remember to have a torch handy so you can see the numbers on the plug leads so you don't put them on in the wrong order. If you're doing it for the first time leave the old leads plugged in to the coil pack till you have fed the new ones over the rocker cover and down between the manifold runners then disconnect the old leads one at a time and use the torch to spot the lead numbers so you can get the right lead in the right place. Unlike a distributor the leads plug into the coil pack in sequence 1-2-3-4-5-6 in a clockwise direction with #1 being in the front right position as I recall.

Bushbasher

GK · 11-05-2007, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bushbasher

I changed my original leads for a set of Eagle leads a few weeks ago in less than 1/2 an hour by going at the coil pack from underneath in a pit and didn't have to remove anything and felt an improvement in throttle response. Just remember to have a torch handy so you can see the numbers on the plug leads so you don't put them on in the wrong order. If you're doing it for the first time leave the old leads plugged in to the coil pack till you have fed the new ones over the rocker cover and down between the manifold runners then disconnect the old leads one at a time and use the torch to spot the lead numbers so you can get the right lead in the right place. Unlike a distributor the leads plug into the coil pack in sequence 1-2-3-4-5-6 in a clockwise direction with #1 being in the front right position as I recall.

Bushbasher

Handy things those pits and hoists! You lucky buggers that have easy access to them.

GK

tiger99 · 11-05-2007, 11:09 PM

Thanks 'basher great tip. I would have charged like a bull at a gate and just ripped 'em out!

tiger99 · 11-05-2007, 11:30 PM

i'll let you all know how it goes. currently i reckon i'm running on 3 at the moment. About 6 weeks ago i was getting coughing and spluttering and had to be down the coast for a wedding. ii've been familiar with the problem and in the past have just pulled the leads away from the plugs and removed the carbon build up in and around the metal connector with a cotton tip and she was back to normal for a while. this day i pulled the lead off to clean it and the metal connector was left on the plug. alll the plastic and rubber had carbonised and clean broke off. there was no hope of finding a mechanic on a saturday morning willing to work on a hot engine in a hurry so i gave it a crack. i pulled the terminal of the plug and drilled out all the old rubbish in it and bent the prongs back with pliers. Then i drilled out the rubber boot to get rid of the crap in there, lubed up the lead so it could slide back through the boot. Then i had to cut through the lead (without cutting through the cable) and also making sure it wasn't too short to reach the plug. Then, i wrapped the 3cm of the cable around the base of the terminal and clamped it all tight with pliers, put it back on the plug and it worked great for about 6000k's.

Handy fix

Bushbasher · 12-05-2007, 12:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GK

Handy things those pits and hoists! You lucky buggers that have easy access to them.

GK

True GK, the pit was a bonus but the job could still be done with a set of ramps if you have them. But I personally wouldn't want to do it under a jacked up car as I'm over 100kg with big hands and I had to get both hands up in there either side of the cross member to get the job done so I needed some elbow room

_

..........Also the engine was still hot but I managed to NOT burn myself going at the coil pack from underneath. :thebirds:

Bushbasher

MNM96 · 12-05-2007, 05:33 AM

I did mine on carport floor from above with Airbox and intake removed. 45 mins work, including coilpack, and 2 stubby's!

:

bodes-sh · 12-05-2007, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bushbasher

...

..........Also the engine was still hot but I managed to NOT burn myself going at the coil pack from underneath. :thebirds:

Bushbasher

lol, try replacing a coil pack on a hot au without burning yourself, the only way you can get it in is from underneath behind the steering rack....well on an au1 anyway