Brakes - Page 2

sbutler · 01-05-2005, 07:55 AM

Again jcxr8 come in and saves the day! Take up his offer of help nudsta, the job is so much better when someone has done it before........See ya at Wakefield.....

Bucknaked · 01-05-2005, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCXR8

Bucky - try BBS (Better Brakes & suspension) in Fyshwick for the discs and pads. I'd be surprised if you can get a better price than them - even Revells couldn't match their prices and I was getting them a trade price from revell's. Don't go ultimates - they really chew out the discs (mine had to be machined after 10,000km on ultimates). I would go for the Bendix Advance - they are just as good (as the ultimates) for everday driving and don't chew the discs as badly as the ultimates. Even Bendix Standards would be fine for your car. The Greenstuff pads would be a bit of overkill on your car - apparently the Ferodo pads are very good (just ask Vic).

As for going slotted and/or cross-drilled - if you are prepared to spend the axtra $20 or $30 per disc on slotted and cross-drilled, I would definitely do that on your car. The cross drilling has no performance benefit at all - they are all about looks (the slots are what gives them better performance) - so they are perfect for your car and the nancy boy image you portray so well.

: Seriously, the cross drilled & slotted (gold series) would look great on your car. No real need for you to go to the expense of the 4000 series discs, the "standard" gold series ones will do the trick.

Once you have them, I can fit the fronts for you no dramas at all - actually, you can fit them, I''ll just tell you what to do! As for the backs - they are a real biatch! But I'll give them a go too , but you are really better off going to a brake place to get the rears fitted, as they will do the handbrake adjustment properly (hey, cubey???!). I could give it a go if you are prepared to risk it, but I know what you're like, so we'll just stick to the fronts.

Would also be a good opportunity to replace the brake fluid, unless it has been done recently. It should be replaced at least every 2 years (every year is better), reagrdless of kms driven.

Thanks JC. I was thinking only of doing the fronts as ford said the rears are ok. No problem there.

I would like to know how to do them myself. Be good to get down and dirty. I'll even wear my tool belt. :hihi:

I'll give BBS a call on Monday and get a price for those guys. I've sent your post into work, so I'll know what I'm asking.

Appreciate your help and your offer to show me how to fit them. It won't be till after my return fom holidays which start very soon.

With all the stuff you have help me out with, I'm gonna need one of those herrod type badges that says "JCXR8 Enhanced"

:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Cube

If you do go to WSID - Let me know and I may come up for a turn aswell.

I have to talk to Jake first about the work so I know what I'm up for, but once I decide to fo ahead, thats when I'll head to Sydney. Won't be too soon, but I will be going. Defiantley give you a call. Maybe we can organise a few others to come up as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbutler

See ya at Wakefield.....

I'll have my "Team Nancy Boy" shirt on. See ya there

JC · 01-05-2005, 09:47 PM

No worries buckmeister - though if your brakes are nearing their limits, I would suggest doing them sooner rather than later, especially if you are taking the car. The fronts should only take around 30 minutes all up - depends on how much talking you plan on doing! So any night this week should be fine.

JCXR8 Enhanced? Hmmm, might be a warning label!

How about my car - I'll need a badge that says "Half the parts off this car are from Bucknaked". Anyone know a cheap signwriter? LOL.

Casper · 01-05-2005, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCXR8

How about my car - I'll need a badge that says "Half the parts off this car are from Bucknaked". Anyone know a cheap signwriter? LOL.

Chucky can whip that up in about 5 minutes

:

Bucknaked · 02-05-2005, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCXR8

No worries buckmeister - though if your brakes are nearing their limits, I would suggest doing them sooner rather than later, especially if you are taking the car. The fronts should only take around 30 minutes all up - depends on how much talking you plan on doing! So any night this week should be fine.

JCXR8 Enhanced? Hmmm, might be a warning label!

How about my car - I'll need a badge that says "Half the parts off this car are from Bucknaked". Anyone know a cheap signwriter? LOL.

Its gonna have to wait till after the holiday. I won't be driving the car much before the trip, so it should be cool till June. I'll get the prices and order the parts shortly.

I'm not going on the track just yet

geckoGT · 02-05-2005, 06:47 PM

I have been thinking of upgrading the rotors on my BA XR8 (stock are crap) and have been looking at the DBA, I have heard reports of the cross drilled tending to crack at the drilling. Does anyone know of the facts behind this rumour?

sbutler · 02-05-2005, 07:01 PM

They do crack although I have never seen it on any of the rotors ive had, Its more a problem for racing cars with drilled rotors I think, I have Brembo's on my car & thay have no cracks so far. I had them on my EBGT without any trouble at all, so I dont think I worry to much about it......Hope this helps.....

geckoGT · 02-05-2005, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbutler

They do crack although I have never seen it on any of the rotors ive had, Its more a problem for racing cars with drilled rotors I think, I have Brembo's on my car & thay have no cracks so far. I had them on my EBGT without any trouble at all, so I dont think I worry to much about it......Hope this helps.....

I heard it was the DBA cross drilled that were cracking, in road use. Not sure if I should take the risk.

jonbays · 02-05-2005, 08:12 PM

I am running RDA slotted rotors and bendix advance pads no probs in my AUII.

Better than stock with less dust to boot. Don't know if they are any worse than DBA but Cam at RDA there looked after me with a great price and cheap freight to Sydney so I was happy.

JC · 03-05-2005, 12:51 AM

Gecko - i think it's one of those urban myths. You hear stories of cross drilled discs cracking, but never actually find anyone it has happened to - they just "know someone" it happened to. If you are not sure, email or ring DBA and ask them. They will tell you.

If it helps in your decision, V8 supercars run slotted/grooved discs - not many, if any, run cross drilled. Why? Because cross drilled offer no performance difference over slotted only. The slots are there to help get rid of the gas build up between the pad and the rotor - the cross drilled holes do the same thing, but provide less surface area for the pad to bite into. If you are after looks, get the cross-drilled, as they are so much better looking than just slotteds. But if you are only interested in performance, then just get the slotteds.

Racecraft · 03-05-2005, 07:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geckoxr8

I heard it was the DBA cross drilled that were cracking, in road use. Not sure if I should take the risk.

I think you'll find it comes down to machining tolerances.. I had a trial set that cracked about 2 weeks after they were machined. Weather that was the disc or getting them resurfaced that was the cause I couldn't say BUT the cross drillled rotors have been the only form of discs to die like that.

geckoGT · 03-05-2005, 07:59 AM

You are right the cross drilled look great but I think I will play it safe and just get slotted. The way I drive when I am having fun, I need all the surface area I can get!

OldManGhia · 15-05-2005, 10:39 AM

Gday guys,

In Feb I had my mechanic replace the front rotors on the au wagon. He put in standard DBA rotors and Zyrtec brake pads (his recommendation). I have noticed that the braking performance is not as good as it was. The brake pedal feels firm but more pressure is required to pull up than before. I took it back for 2 reasons. The left side developed a knocking noise whenever the brakes were applied and the right side would scream like a banshee. No reason was found for the knocking noise and the pads were replaced again with another set of Zyrtecs to stop the noise.

Well the banshee is back and Ive also found that brakeing in the wet is a problem. Feels like you've just driven out of a car wash and applied the brakes every time you try to stop. Scarry.

Can anyone recommend a good brake pad that isn't noisy and doesn't chew out the rotors? I've been thinking of the Ferodo Excels or the Bendix Standards.

Anyone heard of the Zyrtecs? They are crap I can tell you that. The car will be back to the mechanics this week and I'll be telling him to to get them off.

Steve

12 · 15-05-2005, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AU98C-Wagon

Can anyone recommend a good brake pad that isn't noisy and doesn't chew out the rotors? I've been thinking of the Ferodo Excels or the Bendix Standards.

Go with the Bendix Advance (this is what the Bendix Standards are known as now). Good pads for everyday use. Low dust and no brake squeal.

OldManGhia · 29-05-2005, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AU98C-Wagon

Gday guys,

In Feb I had my mechanic replace the front rotors on the au wagon. He put in standard DBA rotors and Zyrtec brake pads (his recommendation). I have noticed that the braking performance is not as good as it was. The brake pedal feels firm but more pressure is required to pull up than before. I took it back for 2 reasons. The left side developed a knocking noise whenever the brakes were applied and the right side would scream like a banshee. No reason was found for the knocking noise and the pads were replaced again with another set of Zyrtecs to stop the noise.

Steve

Had the car back to the mechanic on Wed. again. He decided the pads were'nt the problem so he replaced the rotor. Everything was fine until Sat. I noticed that the banshee noise is gradually coming back. This is most frustrating and bloody annoying. Might have to ditch these pads and replace them myself.