Ebay Sale: ST170 RIMS

Just to throw my 2cents worth in: I've got the ST170 rims fitted on my Zetec and from the invoice that I got from the guy who sold me the car, he paid $500 per rim (2 years ago).

[orsest170]

Hi Guys,

I am the person selling these items on ebay. I had a query about my springs from a member here and I decided to join. Firstly, I want to set the record straight about the price of the wheels - I have a friend who works in spare parts for a Ford dealer here in Perth and he told me they retail for the best part of $600 per rim, without tyres. So while a grand may seem like a lot, it is actually less than half price - and they are in near perfect conditiion.


I have made quite a few mods to my car to improve the performance (not for any "rice" factor). I have put a set of Eibach prokit springs on to improve the looks and the handling. Believe me those springs do both. The ride height is only 20mm lower than previous. Doesn't sound like much but it definately gives the car a much fatter stance. It now handles like its on rails (it was already very good) and the ride quality has not noticably changed.

I got some 17" Ford Racing 10 spoke focus tuner wheels from the USA because I wanted something different to every other ST170 getting around.

I have also made quite a few engine mods because the ST170 is a car that desperatley needs more power - and yes the mods are very worth while - my little 2 litre is now quicker than my old EF XR6 (which had cold air and extractors) was. The mods are in my sig.

In case your wondering, all these parts were purchased from Central Florida Motorsports. Shipping costs a fortune but the stuff is so much cheaper over there, that you still come out in front - aside from that, you can't get jack in Oz anyway.

If anyone has any questions about the rims or the springs, you can post them here or through ebay.

see ya,

Simon

[b2tf]

Simon,

apologies about the debating of the price of the rims, that was my fault as i was sure they were less than that. I was proved wrong today!

I'm very interested to hear more about your air intake, if you think your ST was underpowered then you'd hate mine! :ticking:

[whippet_zetec]

Originally Posted by orsest170

Hi Guys,

I am the person selling these items on ebay. I had a query about my springs from a member here and I decided to join. Firstly, I want to set the record straight about the price of the wheels - I have a friend who works in spare parts for a Ford dealer here in Perth and he told me they retail for the best part of $600 per rim, without tyres. So while a grand may seem like a lot, it is actually less than half price - and they are in near perfect conditiion.

Hi Simon,
Firstly great to see you on the Forums, there are a few other WA Foci floating around on the Forums, and second and you should check out www.eurofordclub.com

oh and I am sure everyone on here would love to see some pics of your ST along with the mods you have completed.

Todd

[orsest170]

Hi,

I have posted some pics of my car in the gallery. Quality isn't great coz my old 1.2 megapixel digi cam is on it's last legs. I have used my 5 photo limit for today so I will upload some pics of the engine mods tomorrow.

As for the Typhoon air intake, well it is quite simply awesome. I deliberated for ages over the decision between a short ram or a CAI. There are pos and cons of both, most notably the tendency for the SR to suck in engine heat, and for the CAI (which is mounted in the wheel well) to suck up water and dirt off the road and all but destroy your engine!

I'm not being dramatic either, a couple of guys in the US have reported grinding to a halt in wet weather and then paying for very costly engine repairs. You can get valves that supposedly eliminate the potential for water to be sucked into your engine, but I wouldn't put my faith in them.

The business of sucking in hot air from the engine is easily overcome. I have made a custom heat shield that completely sections off the air intake. The K&N filter sits almost directly over where the factory snorkel would normally deliver air to the factory air box, meaning that your intake is constantly taking in 'cold' air.

The performance gain (when combined with a 65mm TB at least) is immediately noticeable, but the best part about it is the sound. Now I absolutely hate the sound a your average 4 cylinder rice burner and was worried my car might sound like an overgrown mosquito as well, but this sound is completely different. Under light throttle it is very quiet and you can hear it sucking the air so it sounds a bit like a turbo. Put your foot into it and it roars. It really growls like you would expect a big modified 6 cylinder to sound - very deep throaty sound. The guy at W.A suspensions said he couldn't believe how good it sounded "nothing like those rice burners".

I tried to get a typhoon in Perth but was told that K&N wouldn't bring them into Australia - not sure how true this is but I ordered one from the US instead. The US version of the ST170 is called the SVT, and so far I have found all mods to be compatible. If you have a Zetec then you would need to order the parts made for the ZX3.

I’ll post pics of the intake tomorrow and you will be able to see the custom heat shield.

catch ya.

[b2tf]

Sounds very interesting about the Intake. Im pretty sure I hace actually seen a Typhoon Style Intake at a K&N dealer before, priced around the $400 mark. So not cheap but if it does make a difference then its worth considering.

Is the throttle body useful at all?

[orsest170]

Ouch ....$400? I got mine from the US for about $280 Aust. including postage and handling. Hard to say exactly how much difference the TB makes coz they both went on at the same time but if you consider that an engine is one big air pump, then anything that allows more air flow has got to be good.

They claim 2-4 wheel HP and much better throttle response. The increased throttle response is a big gain for St170 owners coz it is awful on the stock set up - don't think the zetec suffers this symptom quite so badly?

The TB is a bit more pricey though at about $380 Aust including P&H. If I was going to go for one or the other, I would get the typhoon intake anyday.

If you are looking for the best bang for your buck mod, I would go for the underdrive pulleys. I put these on after and they made the same performance difference as both the intake and TB combined.

I have to point out though that the very obvious power gain I got from the UP's may be because all these mods, really compliment each other very well and that you may not notice the same gain if you did it as a stand alone mod. Cost me about $190 Aus inc P&H.

[zetec]

For those of us that aren't familiar, what exactly do UDP's do and how do they potentially affect the vehicle in any negative way?

[b2tf]

Ahhhhh, finally. Been wanting to hear from someone who has underdrives on an AUS Focus.

Which ones do you have and have you had any issues with them? I have read that some people experience dips in voltage etc with them, I know thats probably more of an issue if you havea big stereo or something but i wanna make sure they'll be ok before i put them on.

I've been eyeing off a set for months now.

[Timmeh]

The Aus-spec Focus alternator already runs pretty low at idle, of course it's regulated once you have some revs on. While the aircon could handle having a lower drive, it would be ideal to keep the alternator running a bit faster. Although, you can modify anything! I prove this all the time!

:monkes:

Tim

[orsest170]

I have the Focus central 2 piece kit that uses the stock belt. These pulleys 'underdrive' your accessories by 23%. Essentially the crank and the water pulleys are reversed. That is, the FC crank pulley is the same size as the stock water pulley and the FC water pulley is the same size as the stock crank pulley. They are also much lighter than the stock pulleys and you really can notice that there is less drag when your taking off.

In terms of problems, I did a fair bit of research into this before I got them. One story going around is that the replacing the crank pulley with a lighter aluminium one can disrupt your engines balance and cause crank failure. This is rubbish - not sure about other models, but the ST170 is internally balanced anyway. Secondly, this business about running your battery down is also nonsense. You would need to be sat in peak hour traffic 3 or 4 hrs a day with your a/c, lights, stereo all going full blast to have any problems.

One thing I have noticed is that the notorious dash light flickering is a bit worse. This is easily fixed - turn your dash lights down to about 70%, which is still quite bright, and the problem is gone.

I 'm not sure what effect of changing the speed of the water pulley is - I am yet to drive my car in really hot conditions. I couldn't find any 'horror stories' on the net anyway and my mechanic reckons its all good.

[Timmeh]

Originally Posted by orsest170

In terms of problems, I did a fair bit of research into this before I got them. One story going around is that the replacing the crank pulley with a lighter aluminium one can disrupt your engines balance and cause crank failure. This is rubbish - not sure about other models, but the ST170 is internally balanced anyway.

While its true that the engines are balanced internally, any change to something bolted onto the crank is potentially a source of imbalance. What I think you mean to say is that the crank is not balanced by the crank pulley, and putting a perfectly balanced pulley on there instead will not affect things.

If that's what you mean, I agree. If not, then I disagree, and what I have just said is correct.

And you're right, car engines never sit at idle long enough to run down the battery - but I know some Focus owners have flickering in their headlights at low rpm, which would annoy me.

Tim

[orsest170]

Yep, that's what I mean

[b2tf]

Glad to see I am not the only one whose lights flicker, it has been driving me nuts for a while and as per usual the service boys cant trace/replicate/fix it.

The FC 2 piece kit is the one I am interested in getting.

Less drag on take off certainly sounds good to me, the auto is obviously at a disadvantage so anything that can be done to help it punt along a little better is what Im interested in hearing about.

I took that resonator box off the airbox tonight, made SFA difference as I expected but Im still toying with the idea of opening up another intake through there.

[orsest170]

Have you tried dimming your dash lights a bit? Mine used to flicker really badly, but since I have dimmed them to about 70% brightness, they have not flickered once.

I realise that you shouldn't have to do this, but evidence from all over the world suggests that you won't get any joy by repeatedly taking it to Ford....a bit like that damn heat shield around the cat converter on the st170 that always works its way loose no matter how many times it gets tightened...the rattle is very annoying!

[melbzetec]

Orsest170, did you find much performance improvement with the adjustable cam sprockets? Was fitting and tuning relatively simple, or was the tuning long and laborious? (I'm assuming you had them tuned on a dyno)

p.s. Are you thinking of selling your ST170 airbox ? (Since you've got the K&N)
I'd be interested if you still have it.

[orsest170]

Originally Posted by melbzetec

Orsest170, did you find much performance improvement with the adjustable cam sprockets? Was fitting and tuning relatively simple, or was the tuning long and laborious? (I'm assuming you had them tuned on a dyno)

p.s. Are you thinking of selling your ST170 airbox ? (Since you've got the K&N)
I'd be interested if you still have it.

Hi melbzetec,

Unfortunately I have not had the cam gear dyno tuned yet. It is very expensive and I am planning on getting the SCT Xcalibrator II ECU flasher some time soon and that would mean doing it again.

However I did do nearly two days of acceleration testing (and I'd hardly call that laborious) to tune the cam gear. Now I realise that there is a margin for error when using a stopwatch, but I did three runs (I'm not saying which acceleration test I did either - for fear of incriminating myself) for each cam setting. I tested on the same bit of road, in virtually the same air temp every time and took the average time of the three runs. I set the cam gear at the setting for which I recorded the best average time, which incidentally was at 1 deg retarded.

Basically I started at -4 deg, which is what AEM recommends and then I tried -5 & -6 deg coz a lot of guys in the US seem to run that. I then adjusted it (1 deg at a time) all the way through to +3deg – I didn't advance any further coz it was starting to run badly and I have never seen anyone running an advanced exhaust cam on an ST170. I had a mechanic helping me (I'm quite mechanically challenged) who turned the engine over by hand on each setting to make sure the cam wasn't hitting the valves on the way around.

Changing the cam setting is so easy - you simply back off the three bolts and then turn the torx nut in the centre of the cam gear to where you want it to be, and retighten the 3 bolts.

You can really feel the difference on each setting too. For example, At -3 deg, it has bucket loads of low down torque, but sadly it doesn’t have the same high rpm burst that it does on other settings.

But to answer your question about the performance gain, I gained only a few tenths of a second which isn't exactly mind blowing. But I guess I won't really know until i get it dynoed.

Btw, you will need a pair of cam gears on the zetec - making it a costly exercise. The St170 has variable cam timing on the intake, so I only needed an exhaust cam sprocket.

Some ZX3 (zetec) owners with a 'few mods' have gained 12 hp at the wheels using these cam gears! However I wouldn't recommend this as an initial mod. This mod is something you should consider as a final mod or after getting aftermarket cams.

Unfortunately, I am keeping all my OEM engine parts in case I ever need to make a warranty claim – sorry.

Anyway I’m off to wrc.com to follow rally Finland…c’mon Gardemeister!

Catch ya,
Simon.

[melbzetec]

Thanks for the info Simon. Some of the reports on cam gears are quite positive, although it seems like a bit of a lucky dip....depends on how well your cams are from the factory

A few of us here have also been looking at the Xcalibrator II and Predator as well, but currently can't get one for our PCM code (mine is XSU1)

Have you been able to get a match for your code?

[orsest170]

Originally Posted by melbzetec

Thanks for the info Simon. Some of the reports on cam gears are quite positive, although it seems like a bit of a lucky dip....depends on how well your cams are from the factory

A few of us here have also been looking at the Xcalibrator II and Predator as well, but currently can't get one for our PCM code (mine is XSU1)

Have you been able to get a match for your code?

No I haven't even been able to find mine! I was going to resort to ringing Ford to find out what it is. Please tell me where I can find it used:

I have looked on the A pillar, up under the glove box, everywhere under the steering wheel. I have found a heap of different codes but none that are only 4 characters long.

Have you e-mailed a supplier like Focus Sport with your code? I notice they only have 5 codes in their list but I think they can make additions to that list if you tell them your code.

It will very disappointing if we can't get them coz the power 'chip' available in Oz is an absolute rip off - $1300 and I have to take my ECU out and send it to them and then have no way of re-flashing it if something should go wrong, or flashing it back to the factory tune if I need to take it to Ford for any reason.

[melbzetec]

Yes, have spoken to Focussport, SCT, Diablo, Bluefin (UK and NZ). Diablo is the only one that recognises my code, but only for the chip, not for OBD reflashing

To find the pcm(or eecv) forget everything you've read on US sites about gloveboxes etc etc.( I am working with a Zetec here, but I'll assume it is the same for ST170.)

Open the drivers door, and have a look in side the door jam and you MAY find a small white paper sticker with the code on it. I can usually see it when sitting in the drivers seat with door open.

Now if you find it, it MAY be correct, but all advice is to check the PCM itself.

Now you need a midget contortionist and a mirror here, but in the drivers footwell, on the side wall, drivers door side, up under the dash, you will find the PCM. I have yet to successfully remove it or read it properly, but that is where it is located.

Now IF you have a PCM code that they recognise, AND buy and xcalibrator II or similar, AND they can tune it for 98 Octane, or whatever you use, the obd port is directly under the steering wheel, in that little book shelf. There is a small plastic cover you need to pop out and there you will find the OBD port.

I search the net every week or so to see if my code is available. Focussport say "talk to us if your code doesn't appear, because we are always developing new applications" but I just get a big "NO" from them on XSU1.

In my mind, the current "best option" in Australia is a Unichip (although I know of no one who has done it on a Focus) APS says a Focus can be done.

But it is still a piggyback, (albeit with live tuning) but I would rather wait for something like a predator or an xcalibratorII. What I wonder is whether the pcm codes we have here are unique to Australia.... because if that is the case, who is going to bother developing programs for the handful of Aussie Focus drivers who would be interested?

[b2tf]

Originally Posted by melbzetec

Yes, have spoken to Focussport, SCT, Diablo, Bluefin (UK and NZ). Diablo is the only one that recognises my code, but only for the chip, not for OBD reflashing

To find the pcm(or eecv) forget everything you've read on US sites about gloveboxes etc etc.( I am working with a Zetec here, but I'll assume it is the same for ST170.)

Open the drivers door, and have a look in side the door jam and you MAY find a small white paper sticker with the code on it. I can usually see it when sitting in the drivers seat with door open.

Now if you find it, it MAY be correct, but all advice is to check the PCM itself.

Now you need a midget contortionist and a mirror here, but in the drivers footwell, on the side wall, drivers door side, up under the dash, you will find the PCM. I have yet to successfully remove it or read it properly, but that is where it is located.

Now IF you have a PCM code that they recognise, AND buy and xcalibrator II or similar, AND they can tune it for 98 Octane, or whatever you use, the obd port is directly under the steering wheel, in that little book shelf. There is a small plastic cover you need to pop out and there you will find the OBD port.

I search the net every week or so to see if my code is available. Focussport say "talk to us if your code doesn't appear, because we are always developing new applications" but I just get a big "NO" from them on XSU1.

In my mind, the current "best option" in Australia is a Unichip (although I know of no one who has done it on a Focus) APS says a Focus can be done.

But it is still a piggyback, (albeit with live tuning) but I would rather wait for something like a predator or an xcalibratorII. What I wonder is whether the pcm codes we have here are unique to Australia.... because if that is the case, who is going to bother developing programs for the handful of Aussie Focus drivers who would be interested?

Hmmm, so APS have told you a Unichip will work on a Focus? They told me otherwise, as far as Im aware the only option available in Oz for Foci is the Powerchip, and as has been said you have to remove the ECU from the car as well as pay what it is my mind a fair bit for not much gain.

If Unichip works on Focus I'll get one tomorrow.

Diablo is the closest one Ive found to be suitable for me.

[orsest170]

Thanks for that melbzetec. I will have a look for it tomorrow, although from your experience it sounds like it could all be in vain anyway.

cheers,

Simon

[melbzetec]

Originally Posted by orsest170

Thanks for that melbzetec. I will have a look for it tomorrow, although from your experience it sounds like it could all be in vain anyway.

cheers,

Simon

Oh no. Don't give up the ghost. I probably sounded too negative. It all comes down to what PCM code you have. That's what you need to establish first.

For example Diablo make an OBD flasher called Predator for the SVT. For all I know, SVT and ST170's may only use a couple of PCMs, and yours may be one of them.

So it's vital you find out your PCM code, then you'll know what you're seraching for.

PS Do you have a copy of the Ford Focus Performance Builders Handbook? If not you should get one. It has heaps of info regarding all sorts of performance buildup, including timing gears etc. Search on this Forum, coz I think Timmeh (???) may have been organising some, or I know Pitstop Books in Perth stock it

[melbzetec]

Originally Posted by back2thefutura

Hmmm, so APS have told you a Unichip will work on a Focus? They told me otherwise, as far as Im aware the only option available in Oz for Foci is the Powerchip, and as has been said you have to remove the ECU from the car as well as pay what it is my mind a fair bit for not much gain.

If Unichip works on Focus I'll get one tomorrow.

Diablo is the closest one Ive found to be suitable for me.

That's what APS told me over the phone, and suggested I go to Jim Mock Motorsport to have it fitted and dynoed.

It doesn't appear on their web site, but they told me they had an application. Which makes sense. As one of the largest selling cars in the world in recent years, it means there is a reasonable market worldwide for the Focus.

I haven't proceeded yet, but may end up doing so

[b2tf]

Originally Posted by melbzetec

That's what APS told me over the phone, and suggested I go to Jim Mock Motorsport to have it fitted and dynoed.

It doesn't appear on their web site, but they told me they had an application. Which makes sense. As one of the largest selling cars in the world in recent years, it means there is a reasonable market worldwide for the Focus.

I haven't proceeded yet, but may end up doing so

Thats definiately news to me, i emailed them and a few others and was basically told it was Powerchip or nothing.

If you go ahead with it, let me know as Im very interested.

[chevaps]

Finally!!! Another FF Focus owner in WA. That makes 3 of us that im aware of in WA lol. The other guy is Nick (WRC1AB).
Simon, ive been hearing things about your ST. In fact i was at WA suspensions in Freo about 2 weeks ago and they were talkin about you car with the SR intake and Ford Racing rims which they said had a Ford stamp in it or something. They thought it was insane.

Just wondering where did you post up you pictures?
We gotta meet up somewhere one day, im practically 10 mins from freo.

Tom

[orsest170]

Originally Posted by melbzetec

Oh no. Don't give up the ghost. I probably sounded too negative. It all comes down to what PCM code you have. That's what you need to establish first.

For example Diablo make an OBD flasher called Predator for the SVT. For all I know, SVT and ST170's may only use a couple of PCMs, and yours may be one of them.

So it's vital you find out your PCM code, then you'll know what you're seraching for.

PS Do you have a copy of the Ford Focus Performance Builders Handbook? If not you should get one. It has heaps of info regarding all sorts of performance buildup, including timing gears etc. Search on this Forum, coz I think Timmeh (???) may have been organising some, or I know Pitstop Books in Perth stock it

Just had a look but sadly, no luck. Unfortunately, I didn't have a "midget contortionist" on hand, but I managed to twist myself into positions that should not be humanly possible. Anyway, apart from now requiring extensive chiropractic treatment, I am no closer to knowing my PCM code.

There was nothing in my door jam, but I suppose the sticker could have fallen off? I found two small boxes in the drivers foot well, up behind the steering wheel. One was black and had lots of codes on it, but also had the word alarm written on it– so I guess that was something to do with the security system. Underneath that box is a slightly larger, silver (metal) box which didn’t appear to have anything written on it - is this what I’m looking for?

I have thought about getting that publication from CFM – about $25 US. What does it retail for in oz?

[orsest170]

Originally Posted by chevaps

Finally!!! Another FF Focus owner in WA. That makes 3 of us that im aware of in WA lol. The other guy is Nick (WRC1AB).
Simon, ive been hearing things about your ST. In fact i was at WA suspensions in Freo about 2 weeks ago and they were talkin about you car with the SR intake and Ford Racing rims which they said had a Ford stamp in it or something. They thought it was insane.

Just wondering where did you post up you pictures?
We gotta meet up somewhere one day, im practically 10 mins from freo.

Tom

Hi there Tom, pleased to meet you too!

Wow, I'm deeply flattered. They must see some pretty hot cars in that place, so to get such praise is very pleasing indeed. The guy actually said "I can't believe how well that thing goes", so I think he took it for a bit of a 'test drive' - if you know what I mean.

Yep, the wheels actually have Ford Racing engraved into the lip.

My pics are in the gallery under my user name.
I actually live in Mt Nasura and will only be working in Freo for another few weeks coz I just resigned from my job (I'm an Env. Scientist and want to work outdoors - not write damn reports all day long!)

So if you want to meet up some time in the next few weeks, just PM me and let me know a day that suits you - I finish work at 5 btw.