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Old 15-07-2010, 08:06 PM   #31
tickfrd6
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See the problem is that the red shoes onto some of the numbers. I might have to re arrange the LEDs to try get it right.

Do you have the standard lights in your dash at the moment?
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Old 15-07-2010, 10:25 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by tickfrd6
let me know what you think.
When I did mine I used these http://tinyurl.com/37sehaj.

Each "leg" of each light is adjustable in or out. That, in combination with painting the tips white (I used whiteout) presents a much less "spotty" look - the blue is much more uniform across the cluster.

With regard to the red numbers you might try painting the tips + the side of the nearest leds so that the light is more diffused. I don't know whether it will work or not but it's not a hard thing to try.

I fiddled around with mine quite a bit before I was happy with the effect.
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Old 15-07-2010, 10:42 PM   #33
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If i put a thin layer of blue paint on the numbers would it work. i know most likely it wont but hey it just might otherwise ill dab a bit of the blue paint on the led. I've got all day tomorrow to fiddle with it so might as well see what i can do.
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Future mods:
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Old 15-07-2010, 10:49 PM   #34
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What you want to achieve is a diffused (spread out) light, not a concentrated beam (which is what causes the bright spots).

Painting the tops of the led will help to achieve that. I wouldn't attempt to paint the numbers... without any shadow of doubt it will end in tears.

If you've had the cluster out it won't be such a prob for you to grab an AU1 cluster or an earlier one with white needles and swap the needles over. Then all you have to do is get your blue lights working more evenly and bingo, the jobs done.
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Old 15-07-2010, 10:52 PM   #35
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hmmm good point. I have also heard that if you sand the top of the LEDs just a bit it will diffuse the lights as well. The thing is I've tried to take the needles off but i just cant. Is there a special way of doing it? and also can you buy the S1 needles still?
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Old 15-07-2010, 11:06 PM   #36
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I haven't tried sanding but believe me a bit of whiteout has to be quicker and easier than that ;)

I used a fork to get the needles off - put something between the fork and the gauge face to protect it - it feels as though it's never going to release and then..... off it comes. Once you've gotten one off it ain't so bad.

Don't know about buying individual needles. I thought of contacting VDO for assistance but never got around to it. I think I'll be running with white needles off an earlier cluster.
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Old 15-07-2010, 11:09 PM   #37
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ohh the whiteout sounds like a good idea. Ill do it tomorrow and then post up pics showing the difference. Do i only do it to the blue LED's?
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Future mods:
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Old 15-07-2010, 11:54 PM   #38
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JUST GET WIDE ANGLE LED'S , THEY HAVE FLAT TOPS AND WORK A TREAT.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/10-x-T5-286-W...item19bc90e77c
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Old 16-07-2010, 12:09 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tickfrd6
ohh the whiteout sounds like a good idea. Ill do it tomorrow and then post up pics showing the difference. Do i only do it to the blue LED's?
Try it on either and then on both. It comes off easily. To make it easier, all I did was to put a towel where the cluster sits (so as not to damage the dash) and just sat it there and connected the plugs for each trial run.

As I said, I fiddled with mine quite a bit. I tried various leds and found that the three legged ones with tips painted worked the best for me.
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Old 09-08-2010, 12:59 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tickfrd6
Hey I took out my cluster to swap the white lights to blue LEDs and I'm having trouble making the LEDs stay in the little holder. Do they just slide in or am I doing something wrong? Also do I need to add a resistor to the LEDs?

Thanks
Here are my cluster led's . in my t series cluster & ignition light
[IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
[IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
[IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
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Old 09-08-2010, 01:09 AM   #41
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Looks good - you need to pull your speedo and tacho needles off and set them on zero (PITA job though!).
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Old 09-08-2010, 01:17 AM   #42
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yeah i got a little i enthusiastic , if thats how its spelt
i like the t series cluster as the numbers are already blue , meaning you can run white led's , and still have a nice clear red needle , keeping the whollopers happy.
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:13 AM   #43
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Looks good - you need to pull your speedo and tacho needles off and set them on zero (PITA job though!).
I picked up an EL (I think) cluster (white needles) on the weekend. What's the story with zeroing the needles on the oil, water etc gauges? Do they have to be "wound back" to give a little resistance... or something like that...

Nice job sleeper. You can get rid of the "hot" spots if you persevere but I think that yours would be hardly noticeable in car. Always look worse in pics.
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Old 09-08-2010, 03:23 PM   #44
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Ignore the query ^^

Getting the EL needles off indicates a slight pre-tension.

Also fwiw the EL needles are 6 - 8mm shorter.
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Old 10-08-2010, 12:10 AM   #45
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Quote:
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Ignore the query ^^

Getting the EL needles off indicates a slight pre-tension.

Also fwiw the EL needles are 6 - 8mm shorter.
Ah, yes, should have mentioned that (sorry!). They'll still point roughly to what you want them to (I knew there was a reason the AU1 needles were preferred!).
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Old 10-08-2010, 02:05 PM   #46
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Ah, yes, should have mentioned that (sorry!). They'll still point roughly to what you want them to (I knew there was a reason the AU1 needles were preferred!).
They'll come close. If not close enough I'll drive a six inch nail into the end of them...

Oil, temp etc look to be the same length.
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Old 15-08-2010, 05:34 PM   #47
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How many LED's are required to change from incandescent to LED?

Not sure about the LPG cluster so it would prob look better with a white face and white LEDs using this:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ford-Falcon-A...ts_Accessories

EDIT: To clarify, the cluster in the EGAS forte model is the same as fortes, just with 'LPG' appearing on the digital readout.
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Old 15-08-2010, 06:58 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomiclord
How many LED's are required to change from incandescent to LED?

Not sure about the LPG cluster so it would prob look better with a white face and white LEDs using this:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ford-Falcon-A...ts_Accessories

EDIT: To clarify, the cluster in the EGAS forte model is the same as fortes, just with 'LPG' appearing on the digital readout.
11 BULBS I THINK .
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IF YOU CANT FIX IT WITH A SCREWDRIVER OR SHIFTER , F%$K IT with a hammer - Light travels faster than sound.......this is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak!
AU SERIES 3 LIQUID SILVER
BBS MOTORSPORT RIMS , EIBACHS , BILSTEINS , CERAMIC COATED 4499 PACIE'S , 2.5 S/S GENIE SYSTEM , MAGNAFLOWS , METALCAT 200cpsi , CAI MODS
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Old 15-08-2010, 07:09 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleeper393
11 BULBS I THINK .
ah not quite, 7 for a Fairmont or High series cluster (includes XR) I think it is 6 for a base model
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Old 15-08-2010, 07:10 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomiclord
How many LED's are required to change from incandescent to LED?

Not sure about the LPG cluster so it would prob look better with a white face and white LEDs using this:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ford-Falcon-A...ts_Accessories

EDIT: To clarify, the cluster in the EGAS forte model is the same as fortes, just with 'LPG' appearing on the digital readout.
[IMG] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
__________________
IF YOU CANT FIX IT WITH A SCREWDRIVER OR SHIFTER , F%$K IT with a hammer - Light travels faster than sound.......this is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak!
AU SERIES 3 LIQUID SILVER
BBS MOTORSPORT RIMS , EIBACHS , BILSTEINS , CERAMIC COATED 4499 PACIE'S , 2.5 S/S GENIE SYSTEM , MAGNAFLOWS , METALCAT 200cpsi , CAI MODS
123.4 GROUND TEARING RWKW'S , LOL
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