Track day setup for BA Falcon

leighm · 17-08-2011, 07:29 AM

Hi there,

A couple of questions. I have Brembo 4 pots on the front of my BA with the standard solid rear disk single piston rears. I attend a few track days a year. I had QFM A1R pads on the rear which on two occassions have crumbled down to nothing leaving steel on steel and damaging my discs after 3 sessions out on the track....obviously I don't want to use these again for the track.

I am now thinking I will probably be better off swapping pads in and out for the track days so I can get the most out of a pad and heopefully get 8-9 laps of Eastern Creek in without fade (got 7 on Saturday with the QFMs and stock Brembos on front before fade and destruction). What pad do you recommend for the track?

As an alternative is there any pad out there that can be used for street and track that will cope with high speed stops for 9 laps and still have pad material left over for the drive home? The stock Brembos on front have done 2 track days and approx 20000km and while only have a small amount of material left now, have served me extremely well....but some more braking power would be nice from a race pad....

Tocchi · 17-08-2011, 08:49 AM

6pot Brembos (monoblok caliper), good fluid, and a good pads

I have the 6 pot front 4 pot rear, stock rotors, stock pad rear, aftermarket pad front (project mu HC+), with high temp fluid ::: I have had no issues around the track since putting high temp fluid in. With old brakes the other week I did a total of 60 hard laps (over 3 sessions) with no brake troubles or fade

leighm · 17-08-2011, 08:55 AM

I have some high temp fluid ready to go in, the Castrol 5.1 stuff, can't remember the name of it though it is very expensive.

Do you run those front pads on the street as well? I am not against a street pad for the track as long as it performs on both. I was looking at changing pads for the track front only hopefully. Rears should be OK if I can find a street/track that won't crumble.

Tobey · 17-08-2011, 09:58 AM

Go the DS performance pads for the track - 2500's I think.

Speaking to Matt, he didnt recommend the Project U pads for the track, although some are using them.

leighm · 17-08-2011, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tobey

Go the DS performance pads for the track - 2500's I think.

Speaking to Matt, he didnt recommend the Project U pads for the track, although some are using them.

I have heard they are good....but more road focused. The Ferodo site itself says they are limited.

**FLOORED** · 17-08-2011, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leighm

Hi there,

A couple of questions. I have Brembo 4 pots on the front of my BA with the standard solid rear disk single piston rears. I attend a few track days a year. I had QFM A1R pads on the rear which on two occassions have crumbled down to nothing leaving steel on steel and damaging my discs after 3 sessions out on the track....obviously I don't want to use these again for the track.

I am now thinking I will probably be better off swapping pads in and out for the track days so I can get the most out of a pad and heopefully get 8-9 laps of Eastern Creek in without fade (got 7 on Saturday with the QFMs and stock Brembos on front before fade and destruction). What pad do you recommend for the track?

As an alternative is there any pad out there that can be used for street and track that will cope with high speed stops for 9 laps and still have pad material left over for the drive home? The stock Brembos on front have done 2 track days and approx 20000km and while only have a small amount of material left now, have served me extremely well....but some more braking power would be nice from a race pad....

The Project Mu HC+ and the Ferodo DS2500 can be used for both street and track although the DS2500 is not made in the rear DB1376 shape that you need.
The AP Racing 5.1 fluid should be enough for your needs and is only $20 a bottle to forum members.
I would suggest you upgrade the rear brakes to the larger PBR caliper and 328mm slotted disc and run some DS Performance rear pads in them or even the A1RM's.This upgrade should balance the brakes better.

Quote:

Tobey Go the DS performance pads for the track - 2500's I think.

Speaking to Matt, he didnt recommend the Project U pads for the track, although some are using them.

DS2500 are better and i may have recommended not to use the Project U NS pads for the track as these are more performance street type pads BUT there are quiet a few PMU materials out there and the PMU HC+ pads can be used for street and track use.

We are a Project U pad supplier and can get them when in stock

leighm · 17-08-2011, 03:27 PM

Thanks for your help.

I am looking to keep the solid rears I have for now and try another pad....definitely not A1R from QFM as they disintegrate. Waste of money for the track and a waste of a day because they do not last. Is there anything in a DB1376 I can use that will not crumble?

As for the fronts with the 4 pot brembos, DS2500 sound good and I have heard good things about them...but they are still a compromise pad. What will a race track orientated pad give me over say a DS2500 on the track? I have heard terms like initial bite etc being very different on road compared to track pads. Any advice on a pad and why would be greatly appreciated.

nelsonian101 · 17-08-2011, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leighm

Thanks for your help.

I am looking to keep the solid rears I have for now and try another pad....definitely not A1R from QFM as they disintegrate. Waste of money for the track and a waste of a day because they do not last. Is there anything in a DB1376 I can use that will not crumble?

As for the fronts with the 4 pot brembos, DS2500 sound good and I have heard good things about them...but they are still a compromise pad. What will a race track orientated pad give me over say a DS2500 on the track? I have heard terms like initial bite etc being very different on road compared to track pads. Any advice on a pad and why would be greatly appreciated.

I do 5 or 6 track days per year in an FG and can vouch for the Endless pads that fit my front 4 pots. PC35 work fine on the track. I change them for track days/day before as found they were too noisy/squeal day to day.

Went with the rear Territory upgrade 328mm Ventilated and recommend it as a cost effective option compared to Brembo rears.

Have used front dba400 (transferred too much heat to centre and stuffed 2 sets of front bearings). Now use lighter dba500 with alloy centre hats and recommend them. About to try the new slotted dba style rotor too.

**FLOORED** · 17-08-2011, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leighm

Thanks for your help.

I am looking to keep the solid rears I have for now and try another pad....definitely not A1R from QFM as they disintegrate. Waste of money for the track and a waste of a day because they do not last. Is there anything in a DB1376 I can use that will not crumble?

As for the fronts with the 4 pot brembos, DS2500 sound good and I have heard good things about them...but they are still a compromise pad. What will a race track orientated pad give me over say a DS2500 on the track? I have heard terms like initial bite etc being very different on road compared to track pads. Any advice on a pad and why would be greatly appreciated.

Were the brake pads 3 or 4 mm thin when they started to disintegrate ?
Have you run some heat temp paint on the rears to check what temp they are getting or maybe run the 4000 series rotors as they have heat temp paint and you could see what temperature they are getting too.
As far as what rear pads to run you could try the HC+ or we could even cut the DB1376 pad shape from any material you want as we have done this many times over the years for plenty of race cars.
A brake pad that is used for track work will have better stopping qualities than a street/track pad that will have comprises to work better on the road.
If we can find out why the pad is overheating and disintegrating first then that will help with the choice of pad to run.

leighm · 18-08-2011, 09:18 AM

The rear pads were only 3 months old and had covered only 2000km or so, no track days, pretty much brand new. It would make sense that it is heat related as to why they disintegrate, as to when they disintegrate I don't know. My theory would be they get hot and wear out very fast, each session I could see a lot of brake material covering the back wheels, literally pools of dust with small specks of metal were evident from the pads.....much more than the front which take most of the braking effort. I didn't think they should wear out that fast though...given that the front stock Brembo pads have now been through three track days and still have about 3mm material left.

Is there a pad that can be manufactured that will take the heat? Is there an off the shelf product than can be used. I have no issues with having a set of track pads which I change in and out. I think it would be more economical anyway since they should last longer if a little endurance is in the compound...my street pads then will last forever and a day considering how much I drive this car on the street.

leighm · 18-08-2011, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nelsonian101

I do 5 or 6 track days per year in an FG and can vouch for the Endless pads that fit my front 4 pots. PC35 work fine on the track. I change them for track days/day before as found they were too noisy/squeal day to day.

Went with the rear Territory upgrade 328mm Ventilated and recommend it as a cost effective option compared to Brembo rears.

Have used front dba400 (transferred too much heat to centre and stuffed 2 sets of front bearings). Now use lighter dba500 with alloy centre hats and recommend them. About to try the new slotted dba style rotor too.

Thanks for the tip on the pads for fronts and the rotor choice....I can hear some bearing noise from the front left when it gets some brake heat in it....time for some new bearings too.

**FLOORED** · 18-08-2011, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leighm

The rear pads were only 3 months old and had covered only 2000km or so, no track days, pretty much brand new. It would make sense that it is heat related as to why they disintegrate, as to when they disintegrate I don't know. My theory would be they get hot and wear out very fast, each session I could see a lot of brake material covering the back wheels, literally pools of dust with small specks of metal were evident from the pads.....much more than the front which take most of the braking effort. I didn't think they should wear out that fast though...given that the front stock Brembo pads have now been through three track days and still have about 3mm material left.

Is there a pad that can be manufactured that will take the heat? Is there an off the shelf product than can be used. I have no issues with having a set of track pads which I change in and out. I think it would be more economical anyway since they should last longer if a little endurance is in the compound...my street pads then will last forever and a day considering how much I drive this car on the street.

You can try another set of pads and see how that goes and there are plenty of high temp race pads available to cut from or run the HC+ pad on the rear as an off the shelf pad.
We have customers who's factory front pads have done the same as your rears and this shows all cars and drivers are different but there are more than enough race pads available to choose for the front brakes.

leighm · 09-09-2011, 02:01 PM

Done some research in between then and now. Can you get some pricing for me please?

My car has front Brembo 4 pots and the standard 303mm solid BA rear disk.

Project mu HC+ front and rear, Ferodo 2500 and 3000 front only and lastly performance friction 10 Z Rated rear (what are your thoughts on the 10Z given I'm after something to survive track days?).

Thoughts on the EBC Yellow for road/track use?

I know I am hassling you a lot, but I guess pads are quite expensive so making the wrong choice can be a painful exercise. Thanks.

**FLOORED** · 09-09-2011, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leighm

Done some research in between then and now. Can you get some pricing for me please?

My car has front Brembo 4 pots and the standard 303mm solid BA rear disk.

Project mu HC+ front and rear, Ferodo 2500 and 3000 front only and lastly performance friction 10 Z Rated rear (what are your thoughts on the 10Z given I'm after something to survive track days?).

Thoughts on the EBC Yellow for road/track use?

I know I am hassling you a lot, but I guess pads are quite expensive so making the wrong choice can be a painful exercise. Thanks.

No hassal at all mate that is my job.

Brembo 4 piston 355mm front PBR 303mm solid rear
Project mu HC+
Front $440
Rear $375

Front Ferodo 2500 $300
Front Ferodo 3000 $385

ZRated rear - N/A

Yellow stuff - Not a fan of them sorry

PS. I think you should still upgrade the rears to atleast the larger PBR single piston caliper with the 328mm vented rear rotor.This kit starts from as little a $1000 with dba 4000 slotted rotors.

leighm · 16-09-2011, 10:24 AM

I am pretty much settled on the Ferodo 2500s, just one last question. How much do you guys do a front 6 piston setup for? Can these be run with the single pot rear territory type caliper?

**FLOORED** · 16-09-2011, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leighm

I am pretty much settled on the Ferodo 2500s, just one last question. How much do you guys do a front 6 piston setup for? Can these be run with the single pot rear territory type caliper?

The front 6 pot kit starts from $2100 and you have options from there and yes you can run them with the Territory rear set up.

leighm · 16-09-2011, 11:40 AM

Which disks and pads does that come with?

Can I run them with the standard 303mm rears and move to the 328mm rear setup later on?

**FLOORED** · 16-09-2011, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leighm

Which disks and pads does that come with?

Can I run them with the standard 303mm rears and move to the 328mm rear setup later on?

Brembo plain rotors and factory brake pads or we have brembo slotted rotors in the kit from $2150.It would be better to run the 328mm rear kit than the 303mm solid.
We can supply the 6 piston 355mm front kit and 328mm single piston rear kit from as little as $3100 complete but you can upgrade to slotted rotors,painted rear calipers and even better quality brake pads all at additional costing.

leighm · 16-09-2011, 12:08 PM

I will give you a call in the next few days to sort all this out. Thanks for your time.

**FLOORED** · 16-09-2011, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leighm

I will give you a call in the next few days to sort all this out. Thanks for your time.

no worries

leighm · 23-09-2011, 08:46 AM

Thanks Matt for sending the pads so fast. Great work.

I have a general question for you if you don't mind taking a minute to answer please. I bought some second hand rear territory brakes for a very nice price, but one of the hoses has a block where it mounts up near the body with two brake line fittings on it. One of the lines goes directly in line, the other line is on the side of the block basically making it into a t piece type arrangement. One line in , two out.

I have never seen this setup before, what is it for? I can just plug the hole with a brake nipple so no problems there. I am just curious.

**FLOORED** · 23-09-2011, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leighm

Thanks Matt for sending the pads so fast. Great work.

I have a general question for you if you don't mind taking a minute to answer please. I bought some second hand rear territory brakes for a very nice price, but one of the hoses has a block where it mounts up near the body with two brake line fittings on it. One of the lines goes directly in line, the other line is on the side of the block basically making it into a t piece type arrangement. One line in , two out.

I have never seen this setup before, what is it for? I can just plug the hole with a brake nipple so no problems there. I am just curious.

The T-Piece is attached to the passenger side rear hose and is for non traction control cars.The main brake line from the front runs down the passenger side into this T-Piece and then the line splits and one line goes into the P/S caliper and the other line goes from the T Piece across to the D/S caliper.
Cars with traction contril do not have this TPiece.

leighm · 23-09-2011, 09:41 AM

Cheers. Makes sense now.