AU I6 NA, what’s realistic?

[trick_xd]

Sorry mate but its not all about money .
You have to get the right parts that match not much point having a cam with good power to 4,800rpm and yet you rev it to 5,100 before you change gears.
Find your "sweet Spot" and stay in that rev range for as long as you can ... even if that means changing your diff ratio..

Head work for a AU is just about a must .

A Stock head E-series - will Flow / make more power... BUT a Head worked will help HEAPS

A Stock head AU Series - Less power... BUT a Head worked Will OUT Flow and perform a E-series head ... So that means MORE POWER

[stiddy]

Originally Posted by OED666

I am also surprised that there have been no AU's in the 13's yet. I ran my 13 second qtr over 14 months ago.

Weight wise, I dont believe AU's and ED's are that different. (i am sure ppl will disagree though).

stiddy, IMHO the clutch you have wont help. You need a clutch that you can slip off the line, and you will kill the button clutch, and also put a lot more strain on your gearbox. I wouldnt say T5Z's are bullet proof by any means.

I have to say the cam I have is excellent. After I initially get the car going at the drags, its nicely in the rev range and pulls very hard.

I havent been down the strip since I fitted the BBM, but it does feel just as good, and after I had it tuned, I did gain 10RWHP. I'm not complaining about it.

Also on the injectors. I have a fly's old fella off 170RWKW, and I have no dramas with my standard ED injectors. I am also running an XR Fuel Pressure reg as well. With my ED manifold I had my standard FPR with no fuelling problems.

I believe extractors and an edit will get you there, if you can launch it (doubts with the clutch).

AND... Street Tyres FTMFW!!!

Launching is the easy part... thats the part I love most about the whole time im at the track. Coming off the line hooked up at 4000rpm feels great, there are times where it decides to turn the rears to smoke though. thats fun to lol.
I used to basically side step the clutch at 4000rpm when it had the organic one in there, never really slipped it and was getting 2.00 60's.
Now with the brass button I can get the thing of the line a hell of a lot faster, took some getting used to though.
Dont really care what it says on the dyno.. dont get me wrong a 190rwkw n/a 6 on the dyno looks and sounds good, but its pretth pointless if it runs a 14.2, Id rather a 140rwkw on the dyno and a 13.5.

[ayeyew]

^^ Yup as they say RWkW wins dyno days, Nm wins races

[Stav]

Your a top bloke but the list of mods I have seen you say you are going to do have all but a kitchen sink missing. I would love for you to do these mods but I am keeping this handy just as you gave me an excuse clock some time ago.Just returning the favour.
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...5&postcount=29

[trick_xd]

Gee Stav

Thats not very nice of ya ....

[stiddy]

LOL its all happening stav.. like at the moment my cars getting resprayed and kitted.. Actually going in to see it this weekend, should be about ready to pick up.
Its just everything is taking a hell of a lot longer than I once thought and alot of things ive changed my mind on last second because something didnt add up or it looked/sounded dodgy.

Alot as been done though when you look at it - Diff, gearbox, suspension, bodykit, paintjob, magwheels, Cam.. I do have extractors and edit (just not on the car yet), sound system and so fourth.. and nothing is done half arsed or cheaply.

And hey stav, Im not building a backyarder that blows motors ;) or drops wheels off while cruising at speed? You've had your bonnet up fixing something more than I change undies!

[Polyal]

Now now ladies.

Mate if you are worried about speed then all the bling will slow you down!

[stiddy]

Originally Posted by Polyal

Now now ladies.

Mate if you are worried about speed then all the bling will slow you down!

I know that.. but this thread is about whats realistic from an I6 and peoples opinions on it..
You can still go fast with a kit. Thats the point of this thread though. How far can you take an I6 before its not a daily driver anymore.

Not overly worried about the kit slowing me down.. will still go hard and look good doing it, if it looses me 1/10th or 2/10ths then so be it. Its a daily driver.

Ive got a 429 big block sitting in my garage waiting to be hotted up and dropped into something.. thats when I forget about bling and go for all out speed.

[FS5]

Originally Posted by stiddy

You've had your bonnet up fixing something more than I change undies!

sounds like me too...

[Stav]

Originally Posted by stiddy

LOL its all happening stav.. like at the moment my cars getting resprayed and kitted.. Actually going in to see it this weekend, should be about ready to pick up.
Its just everything is taking a hell of a lot longer than I once thought and alot of things ive changed my mind on last second because something didnt add up or it looked/sounded dodgy.

Alot as been done though when you look at it - Diff, gearbox, suspension, bodykit, paintjob, magwheels, Cam.. I do have extractors and edit (just not on the car yet), sound system and so fourth.. and nothing is done half arsed or cheaply.

And hey stav, Im not building a backyarder that blows motors ;) or drops wheels off while cruising at speed? You've had your bonnet up fixing something more than I change undies!

I have psychological issues mate.If I have spare time and I am not tweaking something under the bonnet to make it faster then I get edgy. Backyarder yes.But I am fixing what little I trusted to the professionals mate.Thats why my wheels fell off and my differentials blew. It is like russian roulette choosing people to work on the car.Good luck is all I can say mate.Its a war out there hehe out: out: :gren: ing_sm

[stiddy]

hahaha crack me up stav.. yeah i know what you mean with choosing people out there, but I have my tried and trusted. 90% of them arent forum sponsors either.. lol

When it comes to gearboxes, diffs and tuning, i'll get that done.. Anything else i'll do myself. Ie - cam, extractors, bolting a head on, brakes, suspension.. etc etc I buy that parts and put them in myself.

[trick_xd]

Don't any of you do any research on the people that you are going to spend money on ?

All ways ask to see other work from them .. and not stuff that was just built last week ... but something that has done some hard miles.

Stiddy ... it sounds like you have just about everything sorted .
When you get it all up and running then you need to fine someone who can tune it really good to get the best out of your setup..

btw ... That 429 could go into my XW if you want.

[stiddy]

Originally Posted by trick_xd

Stiddy ... it sounds like you have just about everything sorted .
When you get it all up and running then you need to fine someone who can tune it really good to get the best out of your setup..

btw ... That 429 could go into my XW if you want.

C&V Performance or JEM will more than likely get the go-ahead to tune my car. I havnt been overly impressed with many others.

The XW sounds great, but dads just picked up an F100 ute thats looking tasty at the moment.
Having said that, the 302w out of the F100 needs to go into something, and theres also another 351 or a 460 on the way.. dads still making his mind up.

[Stav]

Originally Posted by stiddy

hahaha crack me up stav.. yeah i know what you mean with choosing people out there, but I have my tried and trusted. 90% of them arent forum sponsors either.. lol

When it comes to gearboxes, diffs and tuning, i'll get that done.. Anything else i'll do myself. Ie - cam, extractors, bolting a head on, brakes, suspension.. etc etc I buy that parts and put them in myself.

Thats the way to go.Trick. the only way to find out peoples reputations is to use them down here. I have seen an old friend of mine with an au wagon go to a very reputable place.He got headwork,cam and tune only to lose 11rwkws and a wad of cash. With that in mind you can probably see what I mean.

Stidds I thought I saw your car drive past me in Glendenning 2 weeks ago when it was supposed to be in the shop.I got a glimpse as I was having lunch.It sounded mean and so I looked over to see a silver au with big white stickers on the back.It looked alot like yours.I hope the panel beater isnt driving it around.Maybe theres a look alike.

[stiddy]

Originally Posted by Stav

Thats the way to go.Trick. the only way to find out peoples reputations is to use them down here. I have seen an old friend of mine with an au wagon go to a very reputable place.He got headwork,cam and tune only to lose 11rwkws and a wad of cash. With that in mind you can probably see what I mean.

Stidds I thought I saw your car drive past me in Glendenning 2 weeks ago when it was supposed to be in the shop.I got a glimpse as I was having lunch.It sounded mean and so I looked over to see a silver au with big white stickers on the back.It looked alot like yours.I hope the panel beater isnt driving it around.Maybe theres a look alike.

Wasnt my car stav, there is a girl that drives an AU XR6 silver, with the same rims I used to have with stickers on hers aswell.. very similar sound to.. she lives in St clair and works out blacktown way..
I chased her down on the great western one night lol to speak to her and we both spun out about how similar our cars were.
My cars getting sprayed over near campbell town

[Stav]

Originally Posted by stiddy

Im about to get my car back finally after long awaited exterior/bling mods on my XR6 and looking to start some real performance mods. As some of you know I had a turbo kit that I got rid of for my own reasons so now, I want to get a move on with some NA mods. I’ve got the wild cam and exhaust. Extractors and edit will be in the car by the end of the year.
What I want to know is if I get the engine done what sort of ET can the AU I6 realistically get without being undrivable? At the moment I’m getting 14.9’s basically stock. What’s the AU I6 got in it? Seems the best so far is a 14.2 and a claimed but not proven 13.9. Which honestly is fairly pathetic. Is that it? Is that the best an AU I6 can go NA?

Mods when I ran 14.9:
3inch highflow cat, 3inch mandrel bent exhaust with 1 small sports muffler, 3inch mandrel bent intake from throttle-body to pod in airbox.

Mods since last at the track:
Rebuild/strengthed T5, 5 puck brass button clutch and billet alloy lightened flywheel, 3.7 diff gears 4 pinion LSD center and billet axles, a bloody wild surecam and Fusion Speakers lol. Also Kingsprings and Koni shocks.

Mods to waiting:
Difillipo extractors with 3inch collector, Edit with custom tune, a Ripshift shifter and some sticky tyres.

Cheers,
Stiddy

13.3 is achieveable with a little lump and the right combination.

[Sox]

Originally Posted by Death351

A road handling car != good handling car for the strip. I think my XR6 is a good example of that, in fact it'd probably be a better track car with better brakes than a drag car.

For drags, 90/10 front shocks, take front sway bar out, all the usual tricks.

Well said.
Drag racing is all about the launch. A good launch is had by weight transfer, which is had by soft suspension which allows the front of the car to lift, and transfer a lot of it's mass to the rear, providing good initial bite.

Cars with heavy duty shocks, poly bushes, firmer springs, larger sway bars etc, handle superbly on a circuit, however for drag racing they are a backwards step.

Don't get me wrong, my cars always handle very good and have all the above suspension goodies mentioned. That's simply because I prefer to have a car which handles this way. A good drag car, maximised for the drag strip, will handle like poo on the street. Period.

So really a choice must be made here, whether a drag car is wanted, or whether a good all rounder is wanted.

My old XH ute was a prime example, had the ponies at the treads and the terminal speed at 400m to run easy 13's all day. The best ET was 'only' 14.4. Still pretty good, but not showing it's true potential because of it's 'circuit tuned' suspension.

EDIT: I should add, the above is assuming a certain amount of power from our I6's, sure if you have A LOT more power they will ET better, but let's face it, once we're at a certain level, we're all working with similar numbers ranging from 150rwkw to 180rwkw, which frankly, won't get you much better than low 14's to high 13's with a 'street tuned suspensioned' car.

EDIT 2: For the record, my current car, an AU ute, runs a better ET (than my XH) with less power, simply because it has a 3.7 diff as opposed to a 3.45, AND that the suspension is quite a way softer at this stage and as a consequence launch traction is so much better.
Terminal speed is down by 3MPH, It also doesn't feel as quick behind the wheel.

Rick.

[OED666]

I have considered going to the strip with a soft suspension setup, just for shits and giggles...

When i ran my 13's, my suspension had the following components...

Front:
Kings Lows
Pedders Sports Ryder shocks with 30mm lower spring carrier
30mm Whiteline swaybar

Rear
Kings UltraLows
Koni Reds (which I think I bought off you Sox)
24mm Whiteline swaybar

I also had new bushes all round.

The car needed a tune badly, as it was on the dyno a week before, and the AFR's and timing were up the poo. Its all about the launch, as you can save heaps of time if you get off the mark cleanly, and quickly.

[FS5]

its a thread mine and a half,but has anyone cracked a 13 yet?

[XFJET]

get the biggest cam your springs/rockers can take, now develop some headers for it, add ITB's and tune the intake to the cam, bump compression to about 13.5 and run E85 and not other Eseris NA6 will touch you, your will have to compromise your road handling thou
save a few hundred killos by running HP solid axle rear end

my EF futura did 14.5 all day long with very minimal mods, manual too! then i put some better springs and koni's all around and it handled great on the street, loved it but never got a 14.xx quarter mile again, the original dampers when i took them out (rear ones) were so shot the damper shaft would just fall back in if you lift it vertically, turn it up side down and it would fall out, they were kaput

at the 1/4 mile it's all about mph once you get that then start working on your suspension and launch and you will be happy, just don't expect the car to handle on the road