Oz Fuel Pumps

[REDDYZ]

Lot of Cougar owners are facing fuel pump issues with not much help around. Every time I spot a cougar at wreckers, first thing it will be missing is the fuel pump. That says it all. I have been doing some research on these pumps and found that fuel pump units fitted in Oz cougars are completely different to others. I am talking about 99-00 models. Not sure about 01-02 models. Some one has to post a pic or part number of 01-02 model pump.

It is very hard to find a new fuel pump unit (including sender unit, genuine or aftermarket). Best option is to replace just the pump inside the unit which is not going to any easy again as there are lot of sizes and types of pumps available. You have to take the unit out and separate the pump, measure it and find a match for that.

Small tip to all Cougar owners. ALWAYS MAINTAIN ABOVE 1/4 FUEL IN THE TANK. I don't know the technical reason behind it other than the fact that fuel in the tank will keep the pump cool. I have seen a Cougar in wreckers with a warning sticker on the instrument cluster to 'maintain above 1/4' printed on it. Out of curiosity pulled up the rear seats and found that the fuel pump has been repaired with a different return line fitted on the pump. My intention was actually to buy that one but its sort of impossible to get pump out of that car as you have to drop the fuel tank from underneath and that car is not accessible to lift up with a fork lift nor can be jacked up. Lot of labor involved and on the top its already repaired with a warning sticker to maintain 1/4 fuel in the tank all the time. I didn't want to spend on something that has was broken and has been partially repaired. In case of US cougars you can take pump out from inside the car without dropping the tank. However, on our Cougars if the the sender unit and pump doesn't have casing/shell around it, there is a possibility of getting the unit out without dropping the tank. See the pic below and you will know what am talking about.

You need special tool to undo the fuel lines from the pump, In case anyone has plans to take out by themselves. If the locking clip is broken, the whole fuel line/pipe between the fuel filter and the pump has to be replaced with a traditional hose and clamp. If return line is broken, probably the whole line from engine has to be replaced. Am not sure, I will have to look underneath the car to confirm it. This is how the pump would look from inside the car.



If anyone's Kat had issues like stalling, surging, starting problems, rough idling, poor acceleration, etc,. related to fuel pump, can you tell me, whether you generally refill before tank gets to 1/4 level or drive until fuel gets to lowest point? I usually refill once fuel indicator drops below 50% and I never had any issues. I have also noticed that who ever had surging problems overlooked fuel pressure regulator which can be a culprit. Also, there has to be some reason behind maintaining at least 1/4 tank of fuel. May be fitted with an after market pump which is not long enough to pick up fuel from the bottom of the tank. Only a guess.

In anyone ever happen to get their fuel pumps out, please take some pics of the pump and post here. That will help us to find suitable pump for the unit.

cheers

Yogi

[K10wN]

I've read in a few places to keep the tank atleast 1/2 full as the fuel in the tank helps with cooling the pump.

The systems with 2 lines don't suffer as badly from it apparently. That's a feed line and a return line and a regulator on the fuel rail.

The systems that have only a feed line and are pressure regulated at the pump by the ECU are the ones that have the most issues. This is pretty much every Cougar from mid 99 on I've read.

Other countries had a recall. Australia didn't...

[thearrow]

This subject is very topical as my fuel pump has justed to play up as well. What happens is at 60km to go (which is just under the 1/4 tank mark) the car runs rough as guts.

My research tells me that this is almost certailnly the dreaded fuel pump issue. What happens is that the pumps are a K type that take the last of the fuel from the bottom arm of the K and this is the part that can get blocked/contaminated and causes the pump to heat up and ultimately fail.

Discussed this issue with my mechanic and he was of the opinion almost certainly this is an early indication of future problems and time to change it out.

RockAuto have 7 different types of pump listed but I think I will get the Motorcraft one even though it is not the cheapest.

Is anybody else having this problem??

[REDDYZ]

Originally Posted by thearrow

This subject is very topical as my fuel pump has justed to play up as well. What happens is at 60km to go (which is just under the 1/4 tank mark) the car runs rough as guts.

My research tells me that this is almost certailnly the dreaded fuel pump issue. What happens is that the pumps are a K type that take the last of the fuel from the bottom arm of the K and this is the part that can get blocked/contaminated and causes the pump to heat up and ultimately fail.

Discussed this issue with my mechanic and he was of the opinion almost certainly this is an early indication of future problems and time to change it out.

RockAuto have 7 different types of pump listed but I think I will get the Motorcraft one even though it is not the cheapest.

Is anybody else having this problem??

Dave, I think as long as you keep fuel level above 1/4 there shouldn't be any issues. Just like the one I mentioned with a warning sticker on the dash.

We both have Eibachs and probably share same components. The fuel pump on my kat has return lines and looks exactly like the one posted above. If you are planning to buy this...

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=515426

I dont think it would suit your kat. This doesn't have return line. You can either lift up the rear seats and center console to see what kind of pump you have or look underneath the car and if you see two fuel lines going into the tank then you have a pump with return line. There has to be an inlet and outlet on the fuel pump to suit our kat. The following ones has return lines, but...

https://pontiworld.com.au/usfordsp/p...a3bb3d034637e0

https://pontiworld.com.au/usfordsp/p...a3bb3d034637e0

it has female inlet and outlets. You need male version and also, the above has different assembly inside the unit. Not sure if that is compatible or not. Am guessing that from inside the fuel pumps in our kats would look more like the motorcraft pump (with return line) that I mentioned above. So, just be careful before you pick a pump. I would suggest to use existing unit (sender unit and assembly) and just replace the pump.

cheers
Yogi

[REDDYZ]

Just FYI,

Part number I found on my kat's (2000 Eibach Cougar manual) fuel pump is:

XS8U-9H307 - AD
01-27-00 2

Code and date

[Cougar2K]

Hi Dave,

Don't know if it's the Xmas silly season or what's going on but bizarrely, I've potentially been having dramas with my Kat past couple weeks and indications point to maybe being the fuel pump at fault!
Not happy!

It would seem the information presented on NECO forums around build dates and a Kat having return or returnless fuel systems don't seem to ring true for our Aussie Kat's.

I had a look on my own Kat and my setup shows information almost exactly like Yogi's. Part number code is exact same but date varies by a couple days. So in other words;
XS8U-9H307 - AD
01-25-00 2

More importantly, it has two lines at the top of the housing like the pic Yogi posted earlier in this thread!
So logic would presume that means it's a return system!

I recently fired off an inquiry over to the UK given they have RHD Kat's like us in Oz and I received some intriguing feedback.

As you'll note, they seem to acknowledge there's been lotsa chop n changes and I reckon Ford has really been screwing around with the whole fuel pump thing over time I guess!!

This was a lil snippet of what i got back below.

=========================================

"Hi Paul
There are 3 different Pump options fitted
between 15-08-1998 to 31-12-2000
You build date of 01-2000 fall in
between 15-05-1999 To: 31-12-2000
The part quoted is XS8U-9H307-AF

The original number XS8U-9H307-AB was replaced by
AD replaced by AE and finally replaced by AF

The other Pump designs have a different engineering
number sequence so i am fairly sure the part quoted is the one required..."
==========================================

On a side note, I have a very cynical view of some mechanics.
Being in WA here doesn't make life easy as aside from perhaps going to a Ford dealer, hard to find a decent mechanic that 'knows a Cougar intimately inside/out and well enough!'

So if anybody on the forums here may happen to be reading this post and knows of a good/reliable/reputable mechanic (preferably ex Ford/FTE type but I know wishful thinking) in WA metro area, then please drop me a line!!

Cheers,
Paul

[REDDYZ]

If anyone ever happen to get the fuel pump out of your Cougars for any reason, do take a pic of it and share it here. Am curious to know how it looks like from inside.That will help find parts for it and to figure out the possibilities of taking it out without dropping the tank.

PS: I was thinking about the reason fuel pumps playing up when low on fuel and finding few kats with warning stickers to maintain above 1/4 of tank. Is that because these pumps are not designed to run dry? or like some cars refuse to start when they are driven to the last drop of fuel in tank until the engine is stalled and they start only after getting air out or fixing up something. Someone specialized in fuel pumps can tell us the story behind this. See if anyone can find information about this.

[thearrow]

Forget the fuel pump.....now I have a leaking/cracked radiator. Ordered from Rockauto at U$252.05 over the weekend so should have it in a few days.

[REDDYZ]

Thats an uninvited expense at this time. Just make sure that the crack is by normal wear and tear, not by anything else. Its always good to look at the cause as it can prevented next time. I believe your kat is in right hands so shouldn't be any dramas. Talking about radiators, I did a lot of interstate driving pretty much all seasons and the core has lot of debri that is affecting the cooling efficiency. I have been thinking to get it cleaned but always postponed. I think its a wake up call for me. Should get it cleaned before its too late, also summer is ahead.

I bought set of rocker cover gaskets from rockauto and thought I would upgrade my UIM, LIM when I replace them. The SVT UIM I bought had lot of sticky carbon build up inside which I couldn't clean it from inside as its impossible to reach. So, gave it for acid clean where it was immersed in acid. The outcome was amazing and shocking too. Its so clean now from inside, as good as new one.



But the acid ate the paint from outside. GRRRR..... UIM looks ugly now. I wouldn't have bothered if all paint was gone.



SVT badge on the manifold is ruined as well. Not a big job to repaint manifold but its a big job to get rid of the existing paint and I don't know what am gonna do with the badge...

[thearrow]

A quick sandblast will clean up the old paint and it will look good as new once painted again. You will have to remove the badge somehow and maybe the painter can fix it up for you.

It will be interesting to see the horsepower increase.

[REDDYZ]

I think thats a good idea. Badge is only glued on so, no dramas taking it out. I will have to find a heat resistant glue to put it back on. Strange that the badge didn't come off during acid bath.

[thearrow]

Finally managed to get my radiator fixed installation of the new one was $275.00 at least now I don't have to keep topping it up every two days.