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01-11-2011, 10:08 PM | #1 | ||
Falcon R.I.P. 1960 - 2016
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Geelong
Posts: 261
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Hey guys, I have a small but annoying oil leak, between the timing chain cover and cylinder head/cylinder block area. I pulled off the power steering pump brackets hoping that it would just be a leaking tensioner, but it wasn't. I have read two contradicting pieces of info, the first being that if you take the timing cover off, you need to take off the cylinder head and drop the sump to replace all the seals. The second bit of info I read (and was told by Ford service dept) was that you do not need to drop the sump or remove the cylinder head to replace the gaskets. Has anyone removed their timing covers and replaced gaskets, without dropping their sumps and removing cylinder heads? Advice appreciated.
Cheers |
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02-11-2011, 01:19 AM | #2 | ||
Bugger!
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Albany, WA
Posts: 3,307
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Standard Falcon mate
You need to pull the radiator to make room to pull the harmonic balancer. Then you need to pull the chain tensioner. Then you need to drop the sump about 1/4 inch at the front to release the pressure. Then you can take the timing cover off. Rockerbox is optional if you want to see a bit better, head definitely does not need to come off!!!!!
__________________
Whoops, there goes another factory setup! Chop and change - butchering cars since 1990 |
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02-11-2011, 10:00 AM | #3 | ||
Falcon R.I.P. 1960 - 2016
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Geelong
Posts: 261
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Thanks for the reply, I've bought a specific au/ba falcon harmonic balancer puller for this job, so I hopefully won't need to remove the radiator.
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02-11-2011, 10:30 AM | #4 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Salamander Bay
Posts: 5,427
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there is a cheat that often works you will need to remove all the bolt ons from the front of the engine then grind a hacksaw blade into a hooked end and scrape out the old gasket clean with metho till all oil is gone then squirt black or blue silicone ( the good high temp gasket one ) into the gap. leave at least 12 hours before starting the engine. this works most of the time providing you do a good job of cleaning up
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Everyone starts off with a bag full of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the experience bag before the luck bag is empty. "It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt." Start a new career as a bus driver Rides: FG2 XR6 stock at this stage but a very nice ride xc 4 DOOR X CHASER 5.8 UNDER RESTO |
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22-02-2012, 11:57 PM | #5 | ||
Auto Nerd
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 808
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Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I need to sort out an oil leak from the timing cover to the head.
Looking around for a ford specific puller, which hopefully a good tool shop will have. My question is, does an specific installation tool need to be used to get the balancer back on? or did you just torque the bolt back on? |
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23-02-2012, 06:39 PM | #6 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
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Quote:
you should be able to pull it back on with the bolt, just make sure it`s on the keyway.. |
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23-02-2012, 09:47 PM | #7 | |||
Auto Nerd
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 808
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Quote:
I'll try wind the bolt back in by hand first on reassembly. Bit nervous about snapping the bolt with the impact. Anyway will let you know how I go. |
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24-02-2012, 12:54 AM | #8 | ||
Bugger!
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Albany, WA
Posts: 3,307
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Just a bit of reassurance for you - my preferred method is to tap the balancer back on lightly with a lump hammer, screw the bolt in by hand, and then hit it with a rattle gun. Works every time!
__________________
Whoops, there goes another factory setup! Chop and change - butchering cars since 1990 |
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22-03-2012, 09:46 PM | #9 | ||
Auto Nerd
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 808
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Just an update. Didn't end up doing the timing cover. I just sealed up the corners where the cover meets the head.
The leak was mainly coming from the sump and dip stick tube. So spent two days replacing the sump gasket, dip stick o ring - did the intake manifold gasket and water pump whilst I was at it. A blessing in disguise was my neighbour who came out to complain about the noise the air compressor was making. It forced me to put all the front suspension back with a torque wrench. After I reset the alignment, the thing is as straight as an arrow. Feels like a new car. With the same alignment setting previously, it used to pull ever so slightly to the left, so it must of been different tensions in the various components. |
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23-03-2012, 05:55 PM | #10 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
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good stuff mate, so has that eliminated your oil leaks completly?
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23-03-2012, 09:53 PM | #11 | ||
Auto Nerd
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 808
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Touch wood, but yes, I am temporarily a lucky owner of an AU that does not leak - air, water or oil. About two years ago, I did the rocker gasket and the rear main, so I am hoping it will be trouble free for another 100,000k.
I will post up some pics once I cut them down to size. |
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24-03-2012, 12:42 AM | #12 | ||
Auto Nerd
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 808
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Here are some photos. The leak from the dip stick tube was blowing all over the block. You can see it once the intake manifold was removed.
For 200000k and only changing the oil every 15000km, it didn't look that bad at all. Fairly impressed - was using Castrol 15-40w, but with this job I just bouight some cheaper oil - Gulf Western 10-30w. Was going to flush it out, but thought just to leave it for another 15000km.....if it aint broke.... |
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24-03-2012, 12:48 AM | #13 | ||
Auto Nerd
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 808
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The most time consuming task was cleaning up the surfaces. |
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24-03-2012, 02:28 PM | #14 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
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Quote:
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