Difficult gear changes...box or clutch?

[oysta]

Ok well the Mk2 Esky 4spd has developed a difficult gear change. There is resistance when pushing the lever into most gears and sometimes even a tooth-againt-tooth grinding sound which I can also feel through the stick.
I adjusted the clutch cable so it's not that.
I'm thinking maybe clutch springs or else gearbox synchro rings.

Opinions?? Anybody had similar?

[66GT]

If all foward gears have recently gone this way, I would suggest clutch. Syncros would normally go individually, ie. 2 many extra quick down changes from 3 to 2 & releasing the clutch early, or to many quick up changes usually from 2 to 3 again relasing the clutch early. I've done both a few times. enjoy

[caprispecial]

This can happen when the clutch is oil contaminated.
Fix oil leaks and fit new clutch.

[JimStone]

Another vote for clutch related issue, few most common causes I've come across are;


1. Clutch lever cracked - common(ish) fault, arm will usually crack at the 'kink' between throw out bearing and cable slot. Feels like an under adjusted clutch cable. Pull back the dust boot and shine a light along the clutch lever while yo get a friend/spouse/sibling/flatmate/significant other/passer by/etc to depress the clutch pedal - will be very easy to see the arm flex if this is the issue,



2. If its a 2 litre - Pivot bolt & block adrift - pivot bolt comes loose/breaks and falls out, small steel lever point block falls out, can not adjust the cable enough to accomodate the change in leverage point,



3. Pressure plate diaphram partially collapsed - does not fully realease, but his usally results in some slipping under load, and

4. Driven plate failing - seen damper springs and friction material dislodge and cause this issue, again this usually have acompanying noise and/or slippage under load

[Puzzlescort]

my vote is for the clutch lever - very, very common for them to crack

[oysta]

Thanks for the comments everyone and the photos JimStone.
There is an oil leak coming out through the bottom of the bellhousing (from engine) but I would expect the clutch to slip if there was oil contamination. There is no slip and pedal action feels good (resistance for first 1/3 pedal travel, easy there after).
Looks like I'll have to jack it up again and have another look on the weekend.

[oysta]

So I got the Esky up on stands and had a look at the clutch fork. There appears to be a crack but I don't see any flexing. Perhaps the fork has bent. Not happy days :(
I presume that any repairs will require the gearbox and bell-housing to be removed. No pit or engine lifter will make that challening...ahh the joys of classics.

[JimStone]

Yep, time to pull the gearbox. Can either repair old lever (make sure you run some additional reinforcing, dont just weld up the cracks) or source a new unit readily out of UK.

If the budget will stretch that far I would be tempted to replace the clutch while the gearbox is out - 'cheap' insurance for not having to pull te gear box again when the clutch dies about a week aftewr putting it all together again ....

[oysta]

Any way of getting to the clutch without removing the engine...perhaps from underneath. Space seems to be an issue...not much of it to manoeuvre around the gearbox.

[coasty]

I have changed boxes from underneath. Not easy but do-able.

[Puzzlescort]

with a standard tunnel to get the box out you will need to drop the motor down - best wasy is to get longer cross member bolts to hold it all in line, undo the steering column and drop the motor down a couple of inches - you can be lucky & undo the motor mounts from the block as well....