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23-12-2012, 07:46 PM | #1 | ||
WOGBOY69
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: brisbane
Posts: 790
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Hi All
iam just thinking should i install a electric fan on my v6 capri mk1 . whats the benerforts on this fan. and should it be in front of the radiator or behind ..iam so confused on how to install this fan can anyone help me on this please . and will it help for more proformance ..on the car .. cheers |
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24-12-2012, 06:46 AM | #2 | ||
Chairman & Administrator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: 1975
Posts: 107,278
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Yes, there will be a small increase in performance.
Whether you mount upstream (pusher) or downstream (puller) doesn't really matter - most of them, like the Davies Craig units, are reversible anyway. Space is generally more of a concern in terms of mounting choices. Cheers Russ
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24-12-2012, 07:54 AM | #3 | ||
tufLTD
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Gympie, Qld
Posts: 1,231
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Pulling air through the radiator is more efficient than pushing it through. It offers less restriction to the cooling air, allowing it to pass through the radiator first without the fan restricting it.
But as mentioned space is usually the primary concern when mounting a thermo fan.
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24-12-2012, 05:45 PM | #4 | ||
Tippy-tronic Free Zone
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 897
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The V6 has very limited space between the radiator and the engine (<55mm?) .
I fitted a slim stator-design electric in front of the radiator, with a Davies Craig sensor kit from always-cheap, along with an override switch (using 1-spd heater fan switch in normal dash switch hole above wipers). I run a 15A fuse in the system, with direct power from the battery and the relay wired into the ignition circuit so can only run when car switched on. I also left the electric fan free wheeling with the fan orig fan belt in the boot...just in case in case. You will notice more power, better economy and much much quieter (esp. if you have a fan shroud like I made for mine). |
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28-12-2012, 07:18 PM | #5 | ||
WOGBOY69
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: brisbane
Posts: 790
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hi mate
with the v6 capri mk1 do you have a picture of it please . would love to see how it fits and all . so you have it between the motor and the raditator ... cheers gerry |
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30-12-2012, 10:15 AM | #6 | ||
Tippy-tronic Free Zone
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 897
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I did have it between motor and radiator in the old car at one stage, but you need to remove the old plastic fan. In current car, I've left the plastic fan idling along on its own (with fan belt in boot) and have put the fan in front of the radiator. Works fine.....even in 34deg the other day.
In front is easier fitting and leaves lots of room in the engine bay for maintenance. |
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01-01-2013, 08:15 PM | #7 | ||
WOGBOY69
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: brisbane
Posts: 790
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Hi mate
I'll have to try in the new year . Mite need some brackets made up so the fan fits right centre . That's cool just take top plate of and front grill . Then I can work real fine then . That's what you mean on the front of car . C Cheers |
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02-01-2013, 07:39 PM | #8 | ||
Tippy-tronic Free Zone
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 897
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Take the cover plate out between the rdaiator and slam panel.
The fans usually come with a generic fittiing kit which puts plastic pins/shafts in between and through the radiator fins. A simple press on clip is then threaded on which stops the pin/shaft coming off. Then trim the excess off the plastic shaft/pin (too long, about 150mm OAL). Generic fit which has worked fine on mine for 5+ years. You can also make up some metal brackets if you really really want to ...... Fitting kit will be obvious when you see it. Fitting kit example: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fitting-K...item45fb1f532a Fan Example (this is the type of fan I run) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ELECTRIC-...item27cb882b28 |
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03-01-2013, 12:32 PM | #9 | ||
WOGBOY69
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: brisbane
Posts: 790
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Thanks heaps
will try very soon . And will have to get a sparky as well ..iam not that smart with electical wires ..... To make it run all the time i say .. Cheers gerry |
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03-01-2013, 03:21 PM | #10 | ||
Tippy-tronic Free Zone
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 897
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not that smart with electrical wires.......just needs some thought, that's all.
From my wiring diagram (my layout design and wire colours) 1. Battery +ve to in-line Fuse (mine 15A) to Relay Power In (terminal 30) - red 2. Relay Power Out (terminal 87) to Fan +ve - blue 3. Fan -ve to Relay Power -ve (terminal 85 or same Body Earth point) - black 4. Relay Earth (terminal 85) to Body Earth - black 5. Ignition (socket point 4 WPk) to Thermostat power in - blue 6. Thermostat Signal Out to Relay Signal In (terminal 86) - green 7. Ignition (W) to Overrride Switch In - white (I use a spare Ford single speed heater fan switch) 8. Override Switch Out to Thermostat Signal Out (bypass temp sensing) - green (or could go Override Switch Out to Relay Signal In (terminal 86) ) Wires and connectors bought from Supercheap. |
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03-01-2013, 03:34 PM | #11 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 717
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The most efficent fans available today are all pullers, fitted to the engine side of the radiator (al la just about every OEM fitment). On my Mk1 V8, I also use a pusher system as there is effectively more space in front of the radiator but given a choice, it would be difficult for any electric fan to compete with a viscous clutch equipped mechanical fan.
Yes, you would lose a bit of power, but I challenge you to find an electric fan or fans that will move 5000cf/m, which is the rating of a good old GM/H VN 5ltr mechanical fan. I have enough HP to give a away a couple to a mechanical fan, its just that I cant fit one in! |
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04-01-2013, 10:04 PM | #12 | ||
WOGBOY69
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: brisbane
Posts: 790
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so what your saying . by installing a electric fan will i loose power . well if i install it in front of the rad
i thought i mite have ganned some power . buy taking the fan of the car were its belt driven .. so i dont have the drag anymore .. not much power though cheers |
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09-01-2013, 12:02 AM | #13 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 717
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Everything that runs off the engine draws some power, for example, the electric fan uses electrical energy made by the alternator, which in turn was derived from mechanical energy from the engine, via the drive belt from the crank pulley.
You will save energy using an electric fan as it will only work when the engine temp reaches a preset level, unlike a mechanical fan that turns all the time. A viscous clutch fan will only fully engage once the clutch reaches a particular temperature, then engaging the fan to draw air thru the radiator. When cool, and if you're careful, you can stop the fan from turning whilst the engine is running. However, once at operating temperature, it will be turning fast and will damage you, so be careful with that party trick!! Im yet to see any electric fan match the flow rates of a mechanical fan, so if keeping cool in the simplest way is what you're after, mechanical fan with a viscous clutch is the way to fly. Hope this makes things a bit more clear. Whichever way you go, be careful and good luck!! |
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09-01-2013, 02:33 PM | #14 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 142
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My capri has an electric fan set in front of the radiater (a pusher). The reason for this is that a 12 inch fan will fit in there out of site. I think that rather than debate the merits of where the fan sits think about getting a stonger heavy duty fan. If the engine is modified with higher compression etc. then the cheap ones cant quite cut it. It also needs to be temperature controlled to get any energy savings.
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11-01-2013, 06:59 PM | #15 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 717
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Efficent fan and an efficent radiator work well in tandem.. best not to ignore the radiator as well. Perhaps get it serviced at some stage?
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11-01-2013, 10:49 PM | #16 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: north coast N.S.W.
Posts: 63
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What are you using now?
Are you having issues with it? and what makes you want to change it. When the Pinto was installed in my Capri a pusher fan was installed only because of the lack of space.
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http://s860.photobucket.com/albums/a.../CAPRI%20PICS/ |
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13-01-2013, 10:00 PM | #17 | ||
WOGBOY69
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: brisbane
Posts: 790
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how
the hell do install this now. i must be thick ***.. do these like tiey downes go threw the radiator threw the core does the raditor need to be empty. iam very young on this sort of stuff need to talk to somebody.. cheers |
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14-01-2013, 09:42 PM | #18 | ||
Tippy-tronic Free Zone
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 897
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just push the plastic tie things *gently* in between the radiator fins and the very fine copper cooling filaments.
Press the locking washer thingy on the other end until a sng fit (not to tight) cut off excess tie thingy poking thru so doesn't catch on other stuff. No need to empty radiator and DEFINITELY no drilling required. This part takes only 2 mins....the wiring a bit longer <grin> |
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15-01-2013, 09:41 PM | #19 | ||
WOGBOY69
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: brisbane
Posts: 790
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CHEERS MATE
ILL TRY THIS WEEKEND ,,,,, |
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27-02-2013, 08:59 PM | #20 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 2
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Has anyone used the davis craig electric pump and thermo fan controller setup?
I'm considering going with one of these for my mk2 Cortina. |
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01-03-2013, 07:01 PM | #21 | ||
Tippy-tronic Free Zone
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 897
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One of the guys in the Triumph club put one on his Stag.
-------------email exceprt follows--------- Electric Water Pump. After some discussion at work with our engineers with regards to the EWP and thermostat removal I found an e-mail from John Benson. I have the Digital Controller (DC) set at 75 degs. The light flashes until that temp is reached. The temp gauge sits on 1/3rd scale and the light flashes continually. The only time the light goes out is when in traffic or at traffic lights and once moving the light flashes again. To me this means that the water pump is staying on too long and not letting the engine get to the correct op temp. The engineers at work say that there should be some restriction by at least removing the guts of the thermostat to give some resistance. I thought that the way the DC worked this would be the case. Then I found a Davies Craig e-mail from John Benson and there is a suggestion to do that. I will try this and see if the light will go to steady. What are the views of doing this and did Jim and Leon do this? I feel that our engine is not operating at the correct temperature and that I should maybe change the setting to 80 degs. The thermostat in then cat was a 77 deg setting. ((( I thought I saw a later email where everything was working fine...I'll keep digging))) -------------------Pricing from Davies Craig rep---------(Stag 3.0lt V8) ------- r #8030 EWP115 Combo Kit w/- Digital Controller; RRP $459.00 +GST. The Digital Controller (DC) has a built-in switch and will control your Thermatic Fan, turning it on at 3 degrees above the set/targeted temperature. Further details listed in the Installation Instructions. The DC replaces the thermostat, which can be removed and/or the centre taken out for more efficient coolant flow. The set/targeted temperature of the DC should be set at the engine’s old thermostat temperature. ---------------------- I've also since found a Davies Craig plastic (?) collar to splice into your water hose with a thermostat built into it - no more capillary up the hose connection at the radiator. |
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04-03-2013, 05:57 PM | #22 | ||
Tippy-tronic Free Zone
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 897
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As quoted today by a Triumph Stag owner in VIC......
The Electric Water Pump conversion has been very successful. In heavy traffic yesterday and 30 degs the gauge stayed on 1/3rd scale. I have the digital controller set on 75 degs but will bump it up to 80 degs for winter to keep she who must be obeyed a bit warmer. |
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