Sanding wooden deck.

H.G · 31-03-2013, 01:17 PM

so this weekend I started to sand down the read deck on my ute

Ive been using a power sander 140 to start with.. to knock the high points off..
and today I went to a 100 it gives it a really smooth finish.. but I still find scratched and markings from cross sanding the boards.. Im just wondering is it a matter of just keep sanding just keep sanding or shoudl I start with a heavier grit and work may way back through the different grits until desired result.

this is the desired look.. *I just hosed it down*

LG17 · 31-03-2013, 01:39 PM

If you want it really schmick you should only sand in the direction of the grain - front to back (or vice versa) by the looks of your tray.
Don't sand across it.

Yellow_Festiva · 31-03-2013, 05:10 PM

Also, if you started with 140 then went to 100 you are going rougher not smoother.

LyleXR8 · 31-03-2013, 05:23 PM

Sand all the way to 2400 grit and it will look like glass

H.G · 31-03-2013, 07:43 PM

maybe it was the other way then lol.. I it wasnt rougher.. I got the most corse stuff bunnings sold.. and already had the other ones.. Im not really familiar with chippy talk.. hence why Im asking for the advice haha

its still going to have stuff thrown in it etc etc.. so I dont think Ill go for the glass look as it will dissapear first time I throw anything in it.. so next weekend I might get stuck into it some more and try at least get all the cross grooves out (seeing as I did cross sand to knock the high edges off the planks quicker).
Im just going to use a deck oil on it

Sam · 31-03-2013, 07:53 PM

Start with 80, sand it all in the direction of the grain, go easy with the belt sander as they can get stuck into it.
When you're happy with a uniform finish go to a 120 grit
Finish off with a 240 grit
Decking oil is fine, tung oil etc. light sand between coats

Yellow_Festiva · 31-03-2013, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by H.G

maybe it was the other way then lol.. I it wasnt rougher.. I got the most corse stuff bunnings sold.. and already had the other ones.. Im not really familiar with chippy talk.. hence why Im asking for the advice haha

Was thinking you got the numbers switched. No worries

The larger the number, the less abrasive (ie smoother) the sandpaper is

If you still have fine marks going across the grain try hitting it with more with the 140 grit and see how that goes. If you want to finish it to a smoother surface again after the 140 try something around the 300-400 range.

What will you be using near the leading edge? Is that a belt sander you are using? When some guys sanded / polished the boards in our old place they did the edges with a disk attached to an angle grinder to get right to the edge and even below the skirting. I think it was something that looks like a very course scourer with sand embedded in it. If you go down that path you may want to source a waste piece of timber similar to what you have to experiment with the correct angle / pressure to use to minimise scoring.

For such a small edge you may just do it by hand as well to save stuffing around.

In your case I assume you dont want to scratch up the steel panel / board behing the cabin so you may want to line it with something very thin like a strip of steel / aluminium to protect it.

H.G · 31-03-2013, 08:23 PM

Ive just used the belt sander.. you can get into the tight spots just buy using the front edge of the sander.. thanks for the advice guys.. looks like Ill have to get stuck into it again tomorrow to smooth out my mistakes.. 24 hours between coats it says.. wish I started this on tuesday when I got home..

Franco Cozzo · 31-03-2013, 09:04 PM

Whats the cost of a wood tray with steel frame compared to an all steel one?

I quite like the look.

H.G · 31-03-2013, 09:06 PM

no idea.. I bought it this way for the same reason.. still want to add more compartments/draws but the wooden deck is what sealed the deal for me.

Sam · 31-03-2013, 09:13 PM

Slightly cheaper for the steel deck, quality decking timber and labour to fit is more than chequer plate.

**ebxr8240** · 31-03-2013, 09:46 PM

Add some linseed oil to decking paint..

Or use 50/50 Linseed and turps for 2 or 3 coats..
Then 80/20 turps as final coats..
Final coat can be 100% linseed..
Cheaper and lasts longer..

mik · 01-04-2013, 01:40 AM

that`s gonna look nice when it`s all finished, keep up the good work.

atec77 · 01-04-2013, 01:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by H.G

so this weekend I started to sand down the read deck on my ute
image

Ive been using a power sander 140 to start with.. to knock the high points off..
and today I went to a 100 it gives it a really smooth finish.. but I still find scratched and markings from cross sanding the boards.. Im just wondering is it a matter of just keep sanding just keep sanding or shoudl I start with a heavier grit and work may way back through the different grits until desired result.

this is the desired look.. *I just hosed it down*
image

100/140/240 and then wipe the deck with a really damp rag until the wood swells a little and all the fibers poke up , wait over night and sand again , much smoother then decide if you want oil or a good quality estapol ( which is much harder) sand lightly between coats