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Race Brakes Sydney Street and race performance pad / rotor combinations as well as brake upgrades and Exedy clutch kits. Website Link |
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#1 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Perth
Posts: 391
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Hi Matt,
I'm currently in the process of looking for a near new XR6, G6, or G6e with which to replace my (brake kitted) XR8. Unfortunately I still have the mod bug and so am thinking about upgrading the brakes as soon as I get the new car, rather than procrastinating for months and then doing it anyway. With the AU I managed to fit some 330 mm Mustang Discs in place of the old 287's using some $200 brackets from ebay. It was a pretty tight fit but all worked out OK. Only down side was that I had to get longer hoses also. I've been looking through the DBA catalogue and found that the V6 Chrysler 300c uses a 345 by 28 by 55 mm disc with 115 mm bolt circle and 71.5 mm centre hole. So I'm fairly confident I can bolt all this up if I just make up some nice easy rectangular brackets from 50 by 10 mm flat bar with the bolt holes 24 and 130 mm apart respectively. I think this probably won't need longer hoses either. And it should fill up the wheels enough that I can't modify it any further. Obviously won't be a lot bigger than the 322mm V8 brakes, but then the V8 brakes in turn aren't a lot bigger than the L6 brakes so if I'd consider one then why not the other.... The reason I'm asking you about this is as follows: 1. When I get around to doing all this I'm planning to finally buy the bits from you since I know you've helped me out with a fair bit of advice previously. 2. I'd be interested in what you understand the 'legal' situation to be with caliper spacer brackets though before I go and upset my insurance company or QLD Transport. I.e. lots of cars have them, some reputable companies even make them out of aluminium which is not as strong as steel, but could having them on the car make it 'unroadworthy'? As opposed to truly unserviceable or unsafe in an engineering sense? BTW my brother is a mechanical engineer and doesn't see a mechanical problem, but the parties above may still find one somehow... 3. If you think it sounds reasonable in principle I'll have a crack at it and send you some pics when it's done - might be something other NA 6 cylinder owners would be interested in - cheap bling for about $200 to $250 for RDA or DBA discs and maybe another $200 for bolts and brackets. 4. If you think it's a bad idea for whatever reason then I'll probably just go with the 322 mm fronts, slotted discs all round, and grippier pads. I already have some V8 calipers lying around. - Discs wise I'm leaning towards RDA (Mustang ones seemed OK) unless I could still get DBA4000 without slots? I'm not convinced that DBA street series would perform noticeably better than RDA and the T3s are pretty dear... - Pads wise what would be the best performing (cold and hot) pads that would Pull it up noticeably better than OEM pads and: - Don't need to be warmed up to work, - Don't chew the discs up ridiculously fast, - Don't make a crazy amount of noise, - But can be a bit dusty and expensive if need be? Ds2500? Bendix Ultimate? EBC Rainbow pads? Remsas? Brembos? I don't mind washing rims if need be. Whew, thanks for reading all that! Basically just what discs nod pads should I buy :-) |
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#2 | ||
Race Brakes Sydney
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: SYDNEY
Posts: 3,613
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Thanks for the head buzz this afternoon lol but look it is possible in most cases for this to work and get engineered but i can't say what your insurance company is going to allow or not although i have heard QLD prefer factory fitted calipers to be used as they have been tested.We try and make all our kits in the correct way for any engineering purposes which is why they are also dearer.
I have looked at the V6 Chrysler 300c rotors specs myself but the centre hole specs i have are 72.5mm not the 71.5mm. 1.Appreciate that 2.Again i can't answer that question as all insurance companies will give you a different answer.Many calipers have brackets to adapt them on factory vehicles but they have had ADR compliances done and that is a lot of money but you could try for a Engineers report and see if that will be fine with the insurance companies. 3.Thats great but remember the 72.5mm centre hole issue and you may also have a radius issue with the caliper fouling on a larger 345mm disc or the pad not sitting correct on the rotor radius.Should check that with a cardboard 345mm cut out disc in the caliper. 4.4. If you think it's a bad idea for whatever reason then I'll probably just go with the 322 mm fronts, slotted discs all round, and grippier pads. I already have some V8 calipers lying around. **** They will work - Discs wise I'm leaning towards RDA (Mustang ones seemed OK) unless I could still get DBA4000 without slots? I'm not convinced that DBA street series would perform noticeably better than RDA and the T3s are pretty dear... **** RDA aren't that bad and you can get plain DBA4000 rotors. - Pads wise what would be the best performing (cold and hot) pads that would Pull it up noticeably better than OEM pads and: - Don't need to be warmed up to work, - Don't chew the discs up ridiculously fast, - Don't make a crazy amount of noise, - - But can be a bit dusty and expensive if need be? Ds2500? Bendix Ultimate? EBC Rainbow pads? Remsas? Brembos? I don't mind washing rims if need be. **** Ferodo DS Performance or Remsa which are cheaper.
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MATTHEW PEARCE
RACE BRAKES SYDNEY = When you want it to stop Street to track is what we expertise in Phone 02 9609 1101 sales@racebrakessydney.com.au www.racebrakessydney.com.au |
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