radiator & block flush

[canuk7]

hi guys,
thinking of changing my coolant and flushing rad & motor on my au1 forte.
the manual i have gives me some idea what to do, but to flush the motor it says to connect the hose to a heater hose which is way under the motor.is there an easier way to do this. As i have never done this before is it an easy job to do? Any idea's greatly appreciated. Thanks

[JC]

I disconnect the top radiator hose at the radiator, then stick the hose in the coolant bottle when I do a "home flush". Gets rid of most of the gunk, and my coolant has stayed a nice green colour for the last 18 months since I flushed the 6. Also pays to turn the heater on so that the water passes through the heater core etc and gets all the crap out of there as well.

To get all the stuff out of the radiator, I stick the hose in where it take the top radiator hose off. So between the coolant tank and top radiator hose, I figure that gets through most of the system, and I just let the water run until it goes clearish - at least until the brown/browny green colour has gone.

Oh, and you need the engine running when doing this. There is no chance of overheating as the cold tap water is a continually cold source of water to keep the engine nice and cool - in fact I would be surprised if the guage gets anywhere near the N in the NORMAL range.

[S3SR]

yeah im about to do this as well any advice on the best coolant?

[canuk7]

Originally Posted by JC

I disconnect the top radiator hose at the radiator, then stick the hose in the coolant bottle when I do a "home flush". Gets rid of most of the gunk, and my coolant has stayed a nice green colour for the last 18 months since I flushed the 6. Also pays to turn the heater on so that the water passes through the heater core etc and gets all the crap out of there as well.

To get all the stuff out of the radiator, I stick the hose in where it take the top radiator hose off. So between the coolant tank and top radiator hose, I figure that gets through most of the system, and I just let the water run until it goes clearish - at least until the brown/browny green colour has gone.

Oh, and you need the engine running when doing this. There is no chance of overheating as the cold tap water is a continually cold source of water to keep the engine nice and cool - in fact I would be surprised if the guage gets anywhere near the N in the NORMAL range.

thanks jc, i'll have a go at it

[Chippar]

yeah im about to do this as well any advice on the best coolant?

I don't think you can go past the genuine ford coolant. Its pretty expensive but I believe it's it's worth it in the long run.

A mechanic mate of mine in Mt Isa, showed me a head that he pulled of a taxi that had done around 450000k's. It had only ever been flushed and refilled with the ford coolant and the water jackets were as clean as a whistle and with no reaction occurring with the alloy.

The proof was in front of me and I have never used nor recommended anything other than the genuine coolant since. But each to their own choice.

[JC]

I use the Nulon long life coolant. But it's really your choice. Just make aure the coolant meets the specifications in the owners manual.

[stiddy]

i use coolant from eeek "Holden" my mate works there and gets bottles of coolant, brake fluid, powersteering fluid, injector cleaner, etc etc.. so i steal it off him..

[XR6-VCT-2000]

I actually didnt get a handbook with my au2 , any chance of someone telling me the correct coolant specifications from the users manual ?, thanks . ;)

[JC]

AU2 Fluid Specs:
Engine Coolant 16 litres - Ford Spec WSS-M97-B44C or D (Warning - do not mix different grades of colant. Always flush the system before refilling with a different grade coolant)
Brake Fluid 0.5 litres - DOT4 minimum
Power Steering 0.95 litres - Ford Spec ESN-M2C-134D or MobilFluid 424 (Ford R1-424)
Auto Trans 4.0 litres - Ford R1-48 or Castrol TQ-95, Mobil ATF 95LE or equivalent
Manual Trans 1.9 litres - Ford Spec ESR-M2C-163A - Dexron 2, Ford R1-36 (Add 150ml of Lubrizol 7906 friction modifier)
Engine Oil (except XR8 sedan) 5.5 litres - API spec SJ/CF 10W30/40/50 Ford Spec WSS-M2C910-A2. Ford R1-310
Engine Oil (XR8 sedan only) 5.5 litres - API spec SJ/CF 15W40 Ford Spec WSE-M2C902-A3. Ford R1-300
Diff Oil 1.65 litres - 6 cyl SAE90 Hypoid Ford Spec ESW-M2C108-a or WSP-M2C197-A
Diff Oil 1.65 litres - LSD 6cyl - SAE90 EP Ford Spec ESW-FM2C1006-B
Diff Oil 1.60 litres - V8, XR & IRS Mobilibe SHC ID Ford Spec ESZ-M2C190-A
Air con refrigerant 850grams - R134a Ford Spec WSH-M1C231-B
Air con compressor Oil 207ml - Sanden SP-10 PAG

[XR6-VCT-2000]

JC , excellent , thanks mate ;) - you also covered the rest of the goodies to that i would of eventually been asking about, thanks again - much appreciated ;)

[GUTLES]

Originally Posted by JC

I use the Nulon long life coolant.

I use this too, was about $40 for 5 litres & lasts something like 5 years / 150,000 kms..

[Chippar]

I

actually didnt get a handbook with my au2 , any chance of someone telling me the correct coolant specifications from the users manual ?, thanks .

PM sent.

[S3SR]

yeah flushed it the other day ALOT of crap in the there new hoses from FORD - for FREE...yey and i switched to the red nulon stuff and it works the same if not better but i made a huge mistake and poured the concentrate straight in then added water LOL: would this make a difference or problems i didnt believe i did it till i added the water and for some reason i didnot use 16L

[Autocade]

Falcon SR
In my experience you have done this the correct way
With all of my cars to date at least a couple of litres of coolant remains in the block
If you had premixed the recomended 16 litres you would not have been able to get all of the coolant back in
Pouring all of the concentrate in first gives you full concentration for 5 years protection and maximum anti freeze anti boil properties
How do I know this ?
Well by stuffing up previously and premixing before refilling of course

[1971]

I Would Like To Flush Mine As Well,what About The Thumostate Will It Be Open For Flushing The Motor? Or Do You Run Car Untill Its Opened Up First,or Is This Just A Really Dum Question?

[outback_ute]

Originally Posted by Autocade

Falcon SR
In my experience you have done this the correct way
With all of my cars to date at least a couple of litres of coolant remains in the block
If you had premixed the recomended 16 litres you would not have been able to get all of the coolant back in
Pouring all of the concentrate in first gives you full concentration for 5 years protection and maximum anti freeze anti boil properties
How do I know this ?
Well by stuffing up previously and premixing before refilling of course

Agree, there will be water still in the block, it doesn't all drain out, so by sticking the concentrate in neat you will end up with the right ratio and not watered down. That is the reason I don't buy premixed coolant.

[JC]

Actually using that method youwill end up with too much concentrate and you will be mixing old and new coolant. Having said that, it's the same way I do it, and have never had a problem (that I know of).

[outback_ute]

I am talking about once you have flushed out the old coolant with water

[S3SR]

yeah well i flushed with a hose until clear water came out fitted all the hoses ran the car for ten mins and flushed again youll be suprised what still comes out

ok thanks guys so straight concentrate first wont harm anything no worries i can drive me car now